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Posted

Toll Road Supervisor aka @mike newman,

I am curious about your timberline down there, we have about a 12000 ft timberline here in the Rockies it seems to be much lower there. ….. well I looked it up, I guess it lowers closer to the poles. The job sounds like a fun challenge, I like to deal with the Earths’ weather related trouble. Directing water through contours you create is as close Heaven as a living man can get. Watch out for the rolling boulders and have a great Summer.

Dave

Posted

Got the roof on the sign today I had never done anything with cedar shingles before this the ridge cap was a learning curve I’m happy with the end results. My shingle helper was my daughter the last couple days. We built it in the garage then picked it up and set it on the post with the loader tractor. 

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  • Like 15
Posted

I've had a 5 gallon pail of PB Blaster's Surface Shield for a while and finally found time to do my truck's undercarriage. The question of what/how to spray it was solved when my wife said to use one of the airless sprayers we have. Sounded good, bless her. I had to use an .025 tip and it sprayed well. Of course the floor turned into a skating rink, and it's unlikely the lift will ever rust, but hopefully it will put a few more useful years into the machine.

My wife took the truck down to the mailbox and said I almost killed her as the running boards were slick. I step directly in and don't need the running boards. Today I'll wash the floor again as it's still a little slimy after the first wash and the truck needs a bath, especially the running boards.

I sprayed almost 2.5 gallons on. Didn't wear a hat so could have combed a nice ducktail after. I may do it again in a couple of years but I'd recommend using a shop that does it and pay them to mess up their shop.

https://blasterproducts.com/product/surface-shield/

  • Like 2
Posted
48 minutes ago, New Englander said:

I've had a 5 gallon pail of PB Blaster's Surface Shield for a while and finally found time to do my truck's undercarriage. The question of what/how to spray it was solved when my wife said to use one of the airless sprayers we have. Sounded good, bless her. I had to use an .025 tip and it sprayed well. Of course the floor turned into a skating rink, and it's unlikely the lift will ever rust, but hopefully it will put a few more useful years into the machine.

My wife took the truck down to the mailbox and said I almost killed her as the running boards were slick. I step directly in and don't need the running boards. Today I'll was the floor again as it's still a little slimy after the first wash and the truck needs a bath, especially the running boards.

I sprayed almost 2.5 gallons on. Didn't wear a hat so could have combed a nice ducktail after. I may do it again in a couple of years but I'd recommend using a shop that does it and pay them to mess up their shop.

https://blasterproducts.com/product/surface-shield/

I’ve had someone tell me about that over the fluid film products I have been happy with the fluid film or wool wax I use the original not the black stuff. I do end up putting an old sheet over the windshield to keep the stuff from settling on it. I made the mistake of doing it one year and had someone tell rain the next day what a greasy mess that was on the window 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 12/26/2024 at 12:03 AM, td9inidaho said:

Finally found time to pull the oil geyser down and see what's up with the turbo. Boy was I in for a shock. Didn't expect to find a broken shaft in the mix. Now to see which way I go from here 

Mark

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Every engine I have had that has a failure like that would barely even run if you pushed the throttle to more than an idle. I’m surprised you were still able to use it. There is usually a lot of metal contamination in the intake piping and air cleaner housing. Not an issue here, but I’ve had to replace a lot of intercoolers that were full of holes after that failure too. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

Every engine I have had that has a failure like that would barely even run if you pushed the throttle to more than an idle. I’m surprised you were still able to use it. There is usually a lot of metal contamination in the intake piping and air cleaner housing. Not an issue here, but I’ve had to replace a lot of intercoolers that were full of holes after that failure too. 

Speaking of engine failures, what did you decide about the S680 engine you mentioned earlier?

Posted
2 hours ago, Cool1566 said:

Speaking of engine failures, what did you decide about the S680 engine you mentioned earlier?

The combine is still sitting in the field where it died. We will remove the axles and pull it to the front and probably pull the engine in the field. If we get really caught up, we might load it up and bring it home. It will be a little bit before we do anything with it. We will probably put a reman in it. We have some engine and some transmission work we need to do to a few tractors before we plant this spring, so this is on the back burner. The one tractor that needs engine work, may end up with a reman 9.0 Deere.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Tried to replace these last summer, wouldn't budge. This time I was ready with torches, and a porta-power. Must be the cold weather shrank the steel, a bit of wedging, a few wacks with the hammer, they popped right out. An hour later and I was done. Took longer to load all the tools and torches, and didn't even use them 

Mark

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  • Like 6
Posted

Got the truck stripped out 

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Found the cause of the fire, previous owner thought it was some add on circuits, ended up being the clutch rod rubbing through some wires on the steering column.  The pivot for the clutch pedal is bent out of place. 
 

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The clutch is on the left side of this photo and you can see it is askew compared to the brake pedal on the right.  Maybe the wear allowed the contact between the rod and the harness.  Definitely something to pay attention to when putting the truck back together.

The truck should have had fusible links that would have saved it, quite possibly they were bypassed/replaced with wire, that part of the harness left with the engine so I can’t say today.  Beside that, it makes sense how it burnt so hot, that clutch rod is 1/2 diameter and mounted with little resistance to ground, a lot more robust connection to ground than a 12/14/16/18 gauge wire would make.

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These pics are of the rear window seal area and the inside of the passenger front fender, the truck was originally two tone white roof and lower body and red in the middle.  So Canadian!!!

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, IHKeith said:

Got the truck stripped out 

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Found the cause of the fire, previous owner thought it was some add on circuits, ended up being the clutch rod rubbing through some wires on the steering column.  The pivot for the clutch pedal is bent out of place. 
 

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The clutch is on the left side of this photo and you can see it is askew compared to the brake pedal on the right.  Maybe the wear allowed the contact between the rod and the harness.  Definitely something to pay attention to when putting the truck back together.

The truck should have had fusible links that would have saved it, quite possibly they were bypassed/replaced with wire, that part of the harness left with the engine so I can’t say today.  Beside that, it makes sense how it burnt so hot, that clutch rod is 1/2 diameter and mounted with little resistance to ground, a lot more robust connection to ground than a 12/14/16/18 gauge wire would make.

image.thumb.jpg.5bea137e9ac9f423fd0712522a1addde.jpgimage.thumb.jpg.5bd0eb057c31c78cbeb44e71612cce48.jpg

These pics are of the rear window seal area and the inside of the passenger front fender, the truck was originally two tone white roof and lower body and red in the middle.  So Canadian!!!

Nice rust free floors, a really good base for a project!

  • Like 2
Posted

Finally got some sun yesterday to charge up the solar string lights for the sign it was still lit up this morning at 5 when I left for work so I walked over and took a couple pictures

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  • Like 7
Posted

Getting ready for our first winter storm. I hope I scare it off. If we get what they are predicting there will be drifts to deal with. Loader and box blade are on for cleaning up the drive. Verified working block heater on the chore tractor. Not much else to do besides fuel conditioner 

Posted

Changed oil/filters, fuel filters and h2o filters.  Cleaned out the cab.  Fixed a minor fuel leak on the fuel shut off.  Replaced the 1000 rpm out shaft seal.  Should be good for awhile.

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  • Like 9
Posted

Finally bit the big one, bought a new turbo, then discovered it had a smaller exhaust mounting flange. After hours of grinding clearances for the turbine, the old housing now fits. Now for a final cleaning and the cat will get put back together 

Mark

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  • Like 1
Posted

Clutch going back in.  The clutch went out this spring plus it got locked into 2 different gears.  Couldn’t find a clutch so had the old one relined. Took the top off the tranny and couldn’t see anything and everything shifted like it should but top has been off before.  My uncle tends to be hard on stuff and he was running it when all this happened so far now I’m blaming him.  

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  • Like 7
Posted

Finally back on the 1256, got the pump, lines, injectors sent to the shop today! Torched the turbo and elbow off of the manifold. The lines are almost worn through where they mount to the bracket. The shop has a place to make new lines.

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  • Like 3
Posted

Started working on the wide front I bought this fall to put on the front of the 350. I brought it to the concrete plant to keep it inside while I work on it it’s nice and warm and I can keep it out of the way and work on it here and there after work. I have the Dyno I bought this fall stored there inside for the winter. I will pull the gauges out of it soon to send them to Pete. I took the pins out of the front end and loosened the clamp bolts. Soaked it with some penetrating oil then put the ports power on it with a bit of pressure on it over new years. Came back to work Thursday it hadn’t moved so after I was done work Thursday I put some heat to it and got one side to move. I got the one side all apart tonight I’ll clean it all up and put the one side back together cleaned up and freed up then work on freeing up the other side I’ll put new tie rod ends on it while it’s apart they have some play in them anyway. 

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  • Like 11
Posted
On 12/30/2024 at 9:25 PM, IHKeith said:

Got the truck stripped out 

image.thumb.jpg.5784162b1fb334a179557beffd44960e.jpg

Found the cause of the fire, previous owner thought it was some add on circuits, ended up being the clutch rod rubbing through some wires on the steering column.  The pivot for the clutch pedal is bent out of place. 
 

image.thumb.jpg.0b899f4d8b20fd95284ac7999c9f2d96.jpg

The clutch is on the left side of this photo and you can see it is askew compared to the brake pedal on the right.  Maybe the wear allowed the contact between the rod and the harness.  Definitely something to pay attention to when putting the truck back together.

The truck should have had fusible links that would have saved it, quite possibly they were bypassed/replaced with wire, that part of the harness left with the engine so I can’t say today.  Beside that, it makes sense how it burnt so hot, that clutch rod is 1/2 diameter and mounted with little resistance to ground, a lot more robust connection to ground than a 12/14/16/18 gauge wire would make.

image.thumb.jpg.5bea137e9ac9f423fd0712522a1addde.jpgimage.thumb.jpg.5bd0eb057c31c78cbeb44e71612cce48.jpg

These pics are of the rear window seal area and the inside of the passenger front fender, the truck was originally two tone white roof and lower body and red in the middle.  So Canadian!!!

My buddies Dad bought a 75 with that paint scheme new, was the transmission cover on the floor replaced?

Posted

New cover boards, shares, land side pads.  Everything greased up, tightened and adjusted.  Waiting on a couple new tires.  510 4-16”.  Looking forward to using it in the spring!  

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  • Like 7
Posted
On 1/4/2025 at 9:03 AM, hardtail said:

My buddies Dad bought a 75 with that paint scheme new, was the transmission cover on the floor replaced?

Yes.  The cab was originally a 2wd 85 1500, 305, automatic.  They welded in the removable transmission cover to that floor, the cover has been relief cut a bit to accommodate the higher transmission, as well as the rear of the floor hump made higher to make room for the transfer case.  Not sure of all the differences but the 2wd tunnel is different than a 4wd.  

Posted
On 1/1/2025 at 9:16 PM, billonthefarm said:

Changed oil/filters, fuel filters and h2o filters.  Cleaned out the cab.  Fixed a minor fuel leak on the fuel shut off.  Replaced the 1000 rpm out shaft seal.  Should be good for awhile.

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Sure is easier to replace the 1000 shaft seal than the 540...

  • Like 1
Posted

Going through this baler I bought at auction last fall. Seems in good shape. I'll fix a few minor things, make sure it will bale, then try to flip it this spring.

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It has some neat original decals on it. I tried to take good pictures in case anybody every needs them for a restoration. 

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  • Like 8

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