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New Englander

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New Englander last won the day on October 15 2019

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About New Englander

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Hampshire
  • Interests
    The way I see it, you can either work for a living or you can fly airplanes. Me, I’d rather fly

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  1. I do pretty well with a mind filled with useless trivia, EXCEPT when it comes to English Lit and European art. Having never had an art appreciation class and finding the former a bit boring I fail at those questions.
  2. Love to hear it! Congrats! Been together 29 here and likely will only be limited by my longevity.
  3. I answered that in the post: "None of this data may apply to tractors but may be of interest for your other engines, especially those with flat tappets."
  4. Ah! Well, one thing I notice is that Aeroshell W100 plus, and aircraft oil, flunked so miserably that the tester commented to the effect that it be relegated to cabinet hinge oil. I use Phillips 20-50XC which wasn't tested. I concluded that I'll probably switch to one of the Rotellas tested for my Norton as I want to move to a somewhat lighter oil than the 20-50 MC oil I'm now using. You can draw your own conclusions based upon the test results. I suspect the aircraft oil tested flunked miserably due to the fact the formulation is old, very old due to the expense necessary to get it FAA and manufacturer approved for aviation. There are other aviation oils tested that did quite well but they're specified for experimental and light sport aircraft which only require manufacturer approval, not FAA.
  5. There's always lots of anecdotal oil talk here and lots of popcorn time. Some will say if you don't use the oil they love then you should be condemned to driving green tractors. One of the areas of concern is flat tappets with some advocating lots of zinc additives, straight weight oils, multi grade oils, favorite brands and some snake oils. Well, I happen to own a Norton Commando, a bike long out of production but still actively ridden and raced. It's a flat tappet engine of ancient design grown through years from its '40s design. Tappet and cam wear has always been a problem. An engineer on the Norton site I follow had enough of anecdotes and manufacturer's claims and decided to actually test as many oils as he could. He used a scar tester with an ability to heat and load the oil to film failure. Attached are his findings. It's lots of reading but you will see some oils not advertised as motorcycle but general synthetics, even Rotella. He comments on each oil on the raw data graphs on such things as suitability for wet clutches, air cooling, water cooling, etc. None of this data may apply to tractors but may be of interest for your other engines, especially those with flat tappets. This data may not show correctly on a mobile device. The time and expense spent on this was extraordinary! https://www.accessnorton.com/Oil-Tests/NortonOil.php
  6. I have to go along with the new oil is way better that the old stuff. Lots of oil pressure really doesn't mean much as long as enough is getting to where it's needed. One might take the opinion that the thinner synthetic gets where it needs to be quicker and then presents a better film to ride on. If you ran 50w straight mineral and never had a problem then that's the best oil in your opinion. It doesn't mean it was the best for the job.
  7. Wow! Thanks for sharing. Looks like he was farming with green but collected and restored a multitude of colors.
  8. My wife came home with an Eska JD 60 she found a a yard sale for something like $20. Dakota toys had new rubber for the tires. Blasted and painted it up and it came out like new. By that time the kids were a little too big for it so it probably still looks good. It's in the loft, I think. It seems Eska made them for pretty much all brands. The cast shell was the only real difference, the running gear the same for all.
  9. My Scag will toss you out of the seat on the rough sections. It's a Cougar model with a bin and a tail wheel and on real rough sections that makes the back of the seat hit you. Slowing down is all I need to do but sometimes forget the holes/ruts hiding under the grass. Apparently there are newer models with suspension. I think tracks would tear up the lawn worse than wheels when the soil is soft.
  10. Hair color doesn't seem to matter as I have brown hair and can do blond moves😄 One of my sisters is blond and has been subject to all the blond jokes. I was visiting her at her office some years back and one of the guys mentioned blond jokes. She opened her desk drawer and pulled out about a ream of paper with blond jokes; said "I've heard them all". Working in a truck parts supplier with mostly guys she took it all in stride.
  11. Really overkill but I sure could have used it the other day as I was sliding into the pond! Called my wife to rescue with a chain. Probably just an exercise and having fun.
  12. Here's a typical Delco 10SI or 12SI: This diagram shows an idiot light in series with the ignition switch and terminal 1, which acts as a resistor to energize it. If there's no idiot light there's a resistor instead. Terminal 2 is the sense lead. In a car or truck with long wires that becomes important as there can be a voltage drop and that lead senses the voltage where it's needed and adjusts the output at the alternator up as necessary. It's not important on a tractor so often it's just a loop back to the output terminal. As long as there's some voltage on terminal one the alternator will energize. If it shows dim on your test lamp with the key ON that's enough. Terminal 2 needs to sense the output somewhere so that should be bright on your lamp. The "big" wire should show battery voltage. There should be no voltage drop from the battery to it. If your test lamp is bright when connected to the positive terminal on the battery but dim on the big or output of the alternator that wire is bad, likely a bad terminal on either end. It is likely attached to the starter solenoid with the battery cable. An easy check would be to use your jumper cables to jump it - red lead to alternator output and the other red end to the battery positive. If you're interested the way the idiot lamp works is that the terminal 1 voltage rises to battery voltage when running so there's no current flowing through the bulb and it goes out. There's always a resistor wired in parallel so the alternator will still work if the bulb burns out. Spend 15 bucks for a multi meter, it's more useful than a test lamp.
  13. 2nd trimester was a fun time! She'd come home for lunch and I'd better be ready!
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