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just Dave

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About just Dave

  • Birthday 10/31/1962

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  • Location
    Kansas City
  • Interests
    Machine Tools, Tractors;150B track loader,TD9 Drott skid shovel

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  1. @Dirt_Floor_Poor It is a shame a city this size has lost so many old resources. I was going to get some brake bands relined this past Summer at Casper Brake and Clutch . The fellow at the counter said the end was near, it made me afraid to leave my parts there to be done. That was the last reliner around here I know of. Does your head need to be surfaced or just a valve job. Very good catch, not something I would of thought of . The head bolts near the dowel could feel a little spongee?? I used to tell the Engineers at work, if you haven't measured your talking gibberish...
  2. I reworked plastic injection mold parts for worn out mounting holes. We used stainless filler in that application because it does not absorb the high carbon into the puddle as we had to redrill and retap after filling worn threads
  3. Have you considered shrink vs press. I like the TIG choice to avoid those darn BBs and better heat control I click thank you on pictures because they are a pain to post so thanks. It looks like you did two stub shafts and a coupling out of an old cylinder rod. I have been using a cooking oven for preheat and controlled cooling, only about 500 Deg though.
  4. I am sorry to hear this I get your pain........... I do not trust Doctors Machinists or any body to do my critical thinking. I have sent many things there over 40 years without an issue however I do spec what will be done and I do the QC myself. Good luck with your current head project
  5. Don't be discouraged you can take you r steer clutches apart for free. You can put them back together for very little money (not rebuilt but very functional). General Gear has some after market new clutch parts. You will have to see what you have for brake bands when you get it open but that to can be made workable on a budget. Mainly it comes down to mechanic work and persaverance .....You can keep the tracks on a worn undercarriage with careful operation.
  6. Noland's Cylinder Head Service is the gold standard in KC. It's about 16th and Charlotte
  7. The levers disengage the clutches 1R, 1L no lines to cross just hard steel linkage. Internal springs apply the steering clutches independently. The brake peddles have independent hard steel linkage that rotate a cam lever that apply brake bands that are wrapped around the steer clutch drums. Again no lines to cross here. The steer levers have a over center de tent that helps you a little to hold them back, that may be the snapping back thing you noticed
  8. I have made many tools through the years , mainly for machining metal. You can add a HSS (high speed steel) tip to shank and handle of your choice. When making a tool of this type I might start with a chisel that I have around that looks good and feels good but won't hold an edge. Select a piece of HSS that will be large enough for the finished tip you want. Pre heat the HSS ot apx 500F ( I use a small toaster oven on small jobs) then Tig weld HSS to shank with 312 or 309 filler metal. Take your time , weld a little at a time.. Do NOT quench. Grind to desired shape. Finish grind with a fine sanding belt or similar. You can find smaller pieces of HSS readily on ebay, collections of small pieces from a retired Machinist's tool box. A broken tap shank is a choice piece of HSS that often goes in a trash can HSS can also be melted over a surface much like hard facing, it takes a little practice but would maybe a good way to go on wood chisels.
  9. My 150/BTD9 book recommends bolting the adjusters on without seals before you put the clutches in. At this point you can check your bevel gear backlash and adjust if needed. Now they can be removed and assembled in the normal way. I kept track of exactly which adjustment notch I was in on the side that needed special attention to get the big O ring seated correctly. I tried it without backing off the adjuster and I ended up pinching the O ring ........so it leaked gear lube. I had to slide the stub shaft back in so I could change the O ring go back with the modified tech-niche of backing off the adjuster before bolting down it's flange. I am glad I put the gear oil in to check for leaks before I put the big cover plate back on . Are the brake rods entering at the bottom of the steer clutch cavity on your machine? Are you leaking out of the final drive(one on each track)or the rear end bevel gears(one set in the middle) My brake rods come from the engine clutch cavity back down tunnels on each side of the transmission
  10. Thanks @sandhiller I changed the setting. I'll try a picture today.
  11. I now have to move my photos from my I Phone to my computer then open them in Paint Program to shrink them and convert them to jpeg . This is how I upload pics, does anybody know an easier way with I Phone. Thanks for suggestions.
  12. Nice shots of your work and land and castles.
  13. Nice job . Strait to the point
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