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About patmax61

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  1. 706 Gas Engine Ignition drama

    Checking the point gap at all positions was going to be the next thing I check when I can get the time. Hard to believe that the cams could be worn on mostly 2 lobes though. The cap seats perfectly in its little notch and looks nice and even. A bent shaft would be hard to figure unless the housing had been played with while the engine was running. Can't think of what could bend it otherwise while everything is tight and stationary. The idea that 1 and 4 are next to each other did not escape me, that's why I checked the shaft side play. Still, even if it had some side play, why affect the same terminals every time? Seems like if the shaft was swimming in its bushings it could randomly affect any terminal. I'm going to check the gap at all 6 positions and if that checks out I'll have to give the shaft a lot closer look.
  2. 706 Gas Engine Ignition drama

    My old 706 gas job was spitting and sputtering a while back. A couple of the sparkplugs were misfiring. I hadn't updated the ignition in quite a while so I put in new points, condenser, cap, rotor, plug wires and plugs. To my surprise, when I started it up, it was firing only on 4 cylinders. 1 and 4 plugs had no spark. I double checked connections and still no go. I swapped plugs, no good either. I stuck a screwdriver into both the 1 and 4 sparkplug boots and grounded them to the engine--barely a spark. I grounded the other plug boots--big fat sparks all the way around. So I suspect bad new wires. Swapped known good wires in and still no spark. I suspect a bad new cap and substitute a known good used cap--still no spark. I swapped in another rotor--no spark again. Every conceivable test showed 4 wires firing and 1 and 4 dead as a doornail. I checked the distributor shaft for side play that could swing the rotor away from the terminals but it sure seems tight enough to me. I'm at my wits end with this thing. How could four wires have a perfect spark and two wires be dead with all new components and also after swapping in multiple other components? I'm hoping someone here can show me some light, because I must be blind to something. Pat
  3. 856 hydraulic pump update

    I posted here a couple of months ago about my 856 MCV pump not priming. After going through all the fixes, I finally bought a pump from Bates Corp, a higher priced pump built right in Iowa. The new pump worked perfectly, even brought back the old hydraulic hum to the MCV that it used to have. I wasted a couple of years suffering with the previous pump. I bought a rebuilt from my IH dealer, a Cessna, a couple of years back. I installed it in mild weather and it seemed to be OK, but when winter rolled around it cavitated on startup all the time. I'd pop the 5/8 plug out and let out the air and then everything would be fine. I complained to the dealer about the pump, but of course they insisted everything else was to blame. I disagreed, but foolishly bought a recon MCV(that didn't help) changed filters multiple times, and finally changed the seals on the suction tube in the rear frame. I did not split the tractor to check the o ring on the suction supply--I simply performed an air test on that circuit and it passed with flying colors. The only thing left was the piece of crap pump from IH. I went for the new pump and everything is like new again. Pump has been working great in temperatures down to minus 25 for several days in a row. Lesson learned: Be willing to trust your own opinion when you think you're right!

    BTW, I air tested the suction line between the filter housing and the mcv valve pump intake port and it seemed fine. Plugged the filter housing port with a rubber cork, Mcgivered an adapter on the pump port, then juiced the line with a rubber tipped air gun. No signs or sounds of an air leak, and a big back flow whoosh when I pulled back the rubber tip.

    Thanks everyone. I'm getting a US made pump from Bates Corp

    Seen a lot of websites selling HyCapacity pumps. Any good?

    So where do I buy a new pump that I can trust? Bought this one from my IH dealership.

    So I've done all the fixes for my 856 mcv pump except change the o ring on the rear split. I've put in a rebuilt MC valve, new pump, new seals on the rear suction tube and main frame pump, made sure to have clean oil, new filter and gasket and double checked filter gasket to keep air out, but the pump still cavitates on start-up. It used to happen only in cold weather but it's gotten worse. Now it might not start on a 60 degree day. I just bleed the little 5/8 wrench o ring plug on the side of the mcv and everything works perfectly after that. I'm skeptical that the o ring on the rear split for the pump suction line could go bad sandwiched in there like that. Has anyone actually seen one of these gone bad? Also, has anyone tried air testing this line? I'm thinking of having a helper brace a rubber cork in the filter housing suction port while I apply a few pounds of air to the pump oil supply port under the mcv. If the o ring leaks from suction even a small amount of air pressure should leak from the o ring and we should hear a hiss from the top of the rear split, right? Any thoughts out there?
  9. Battery life

    Batteries go bad mostly from small particles falling off the plates inside, falling down to the bottom of the case and building up until they touch the plates and short out the cell. Better batteries have deeper cases and better plate separators to help stall that off longer. Because tractors have no suspension they bounce the batteries like crazy and make more particles fall down faster. Cars have a smoother ride and the battery lasts longer.
  10. 856 hydraulic pump

    I tried overfilling the transmission and got no satisfaction, so I don't think that o ring is the culprit. No, you put your finger on it exactly. I want to replace any seals on the suction side of the little pump. I thought I remembered guys saying you should pull the IPTO to make it easier to get in there and change the seal and o ring on that suction tube and that you needed to possibly pull the big pump to properly seat the seal on that end etc. That's what I'm looking for, some tips on how to replace those suction tube sealing elements.
  11. 856 hydraulic pump

    Been there, done that early on. Like I said, I'm already confident about the diagnosis, just wanted some tips about the exact seals and parts involved.
  12. 856 hydraulic pump

    I know this has been posted before but I'm having trouble finding it. The pump on the multiple control valve loses prime on startup a lot of the time. I've been through all of the easy fixes and I know now that it has to do with replacing the seals on the suction side of this system going back through the filter and into the transmission. Could someone please post the procedure for this and what seals are involved? Thanks
  13. auxiliary valves for 856

    I've heard of the power beyond plate, but never seen one. I'm not sure what they were used for originally, but I think you've got a good solution to provide an oil supply to a remote valve. I'm going to research this a little more. Thanks for the idea!
  14. auxiliary valves for 856

    Oh, well I have fixed the actuators as well. I thought you might have done some spool work. That's exactly what Abilene Machine claimed to do. They reworked the bores and spools and no, it wasn't cheap. But they were the only act in town; IH has nothing to offer when it comes to these valves.
  15. auxiliary valves for 856

    Yeah, those spools are a custom fit, not something you can rebuild in a little farm garage. I hadn't thought about the cylinder itself leaking back, I'll have to check that out. I see Abilene no longer has the rebuilt valves on their website. I'm thinking the easiest way to do the plumbing is to make a custom block to replace the valve that would provide both the pressure oil supply and the return oil passage. Also, what do you mean you repaired these valves? What's your background? Did you mean you actually reworked the bores and spools or are you talking about repairing other parts of the valve?