IHKeith Posted December 16, 2024 Posted December 16, 2024 On 12/14/2024 at 2:19 AM, MT Matt said: Mostly been working on lures for my upcoming trip but had to change the leaking oil cooler lines in my 2000 GMC 6.0 before the trip. Took a couple days and much head scratching but got it done. Chevy “retrofitted” older trucks with newer model oil lines which were shaped differently. So the lines I got from Napa didn’t look the same. I then called the dealership and they had a set on hand based on my VIN #. Ok, had to drive an hour to Missoula anyways so stopped in. They looked just like the set from Napa but $110 more expensive. Man, this won’t work! Well the parts guy was pretty helpful and was able to dig up the notes on the part. Chevy decided to change the line shape to match the newer model and it fits. How the **** does it go in there I asked? Don’t know but this is it. Better YouTube it. So after 6 YouTube videos I finally found the one that showed how to do it. The set of lines have a block that bolts to the rear of the motor by the pan. Runs to the front and then attaches to the side of the radiator. Wish I had taken a couple pics. Take the tire off and the inner fender. Had it up on a lift. Then unbolt the motor mount. Take off the power steering lines. Jack up one side of the motor to separate the motor mount. Snake the cooler lines through the wires from front to back and then slide through the open motor mount. And it fit. Job done, just grease up to my shoulders but no more seepage. I did the trans cooler lines on that white 8.1L truck. It has the Allison transmission, they are 1/2 lines, they are not nice on a Duramax so I was dreading them…. They were easier than any other I have done, didn’t expect that!!! 2 Quote
IHKeith Posted December 16, 2024 Posted December 16, 2024 Rebuilt the carb for my 78 Fury, it’s was running poorly and symptomatic of bad gas and dirty carb. It’s still not running well, better than before but not right, having a break right now before I jump back in 7 Quote
dale560 Posted December 16, 2024 Posted December 16, 2024 50 minutes ago, IHKeith said: Rebuilt the carb for my 78 Fury, it’s was running poorly and symptomatic of bad gas and dirty carb. It’s still not running well, better than before but not right, having a break right now before I jump back in Always loved those air conditioning compressors Chrysler ran. I never changed one but they took up a lot of space under the hood. Quote
IHKeith Posted December 16, 2024 Posted December 16, 2024 9 minutes ago, dale560 said: Always loved those air conditioning compressors Chrysler ran. I never changed one but they took up a lot of space under the hood. They have a good look, I wonder what the displacement is. I’ve cleaned the body ground and I’m about to clean the ignition module mounting. It’s acting like it was when I bought it 8 months ago, at that time it ran well with the ballast resistor bypassed. Quote
yellowrosefarm Posted December 16, 2024 Posted December 16, 2024 13 hours ago, IHKeith said: They have a good look, I wonder what the displacement is. I’ve cleaned the body ground and I’m about to clean the ignition module mounting. It’s acting like it was when I bought it 8 months ago, at that time it ran well with the ballast resistor bypassed. So, they kept using the ballast resistors after switching to an electronic module? I thought the whole purpose of the resistor was to keep the points from burning out prematurely. I've never worked on a late70's-80s era Chrysler product. Quote
IHKeith Posted December 17, 2024 Posted December 17, 2024 7 hours ago, yellowrosefarm said: So, they kept using the ballast resistors after switching to an electronic module? I thought the whole purpose of the resistor was to keep the points from burning out prematurely. I've never worked on a late70's-80s era Chrysler product. Yes, this car has 2 ballast resistors with electronic ignition. One is to limit voltage to the ECU to about 9V and the other is on the coil positive side circuit like a points system. My ignition ECU was leaking fluid and was getting very hot, I changed it for a used one this morning, mounted it with bolts and nuts vs sheet metal screws and added a ground wire from a mounting bolt to the engine. It still runs poorly. Last night after installing the carb I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and ran a new fuel supply line from the tank, I flushed the tank previously, so my fuel system should be good. When it runs it sounds like some plug wires are mixed up, I checked them many times and even swapped a couple at the distributor cap which made it worse. I probably won't get back at it tonight, though I was hoping too, darn customer work always gets in the way. When I get it back in I'm going to set it to TDC on #1 cylinder and check my wires, pull the plugs and look at them, test the distributor pickup, ignition wiring, etc. I have had the plugs out before and checked the compression, months ago, it ran ok right after that, so I doubt I cracked one but maybe. Between then and now it had old fuel and got flooded, so maybe the plugs are just fouled. I'll get it figured out by this time tomorrow I hope. 2 Quote
ky966boy Posted December 17, 2024 Posted December 17, 2024 Just bought this painted it and adding a few lights 12 Quote
Sledgehammer Posted December 17, 2024 Posted December 17, 2024 Worked on a fireplace tool rack. Made to mount to a brick hearth. 3/8 and 1/4" square stock. Mortise/tenon construction. A few twists for decoration. 17 Quote
ky966boy Posted December 17, 2024 Posted December 17, 2024 16 minutes ago, ky966boy said: Just bought this painted it and adding a few lights It’s got the 466e motor I’ve been trying to get a few spare sensors anybody know a good place to get them dealer real high. Quote
ky966boy Posted December 17, 2024 Posted December 17, 2024 56 minutes ago, Sledgehammer said: Worked on a fireplace tool rack. Made to mount to a brick hearth. 3/8 and 1/4" square stock. Mortise/tenon construction. A few twists for decoration. You do fine work 2 1 Quote
td9inidaho Posted December 17, 2024 Posted December 17, 2024 As soon as I pull another load of logs to the landing for hauling out,, I will pull the turbo and figure out what besides seals it will need. Last couple days, it's making one heck of a mess Mark 3 Quote
Gearclash Posted December 17, 2024 Posted December 17, 2024 Family photo while I reorganize the machine shed to make room for them. 2005 BR780A 2) 2018 RB560 2021 RB560 2023 RB560 10 Quote
ky966boy Posted December 17, 2024 Posted December 17, 2024 7 hours ago, Gearclash said: Family photo while I reorganize the machine shed to make room for them. 2005 BR780A 2) 2018 RB560 2021 RB560 2023 RB560 That’s a pile rollers thought I was a big shot with 2 . 1 Quote
CIHTECH Posted December 17, 2024 Posted December 17, 2024 7 hours ago, Gearclash said: Family photo while I reorganize the machine shed to make room for them. 2005 BR780A 2) 2018 RB560 2021 RB560 2023 RB560 Which one has served you the best? Quote
dale560 Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 On 12/16/2024 at 6:32 PM, IHKeith said: Yes, this car has 2 ballast resistors with electronic ignition. One is to limit voltage to the ECU to about 9V and the other is on the coil positive side circuit like a points system. My ignition ECU was leaking fluid and was getting very hot, I changed it for a used one this morning, mounted it with bolts and nuts vs sheet metal screws and added a ground wire from a mounting bolt to the engine. It still runs poorly. Last night after installing the carb I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and ran a new fuel supply line from the tank, I flushed the tank previously, so my fuel system should be good. When it runs it sounds like some plug wires are mixed up, I checked them many times and even swapped a couple at the distributor cap which made it worse. I probably won't get back at it tonight, though I was hoping too, darn customer work always gets in the way. When I get it back in I'm going to set it to TDC on #1 cylinder and check my wires, pull the plugs and look at them, test the distributor pickup, ignition wiring, etc. I have had the plugs out before and checked the compression, months ago, it ran ok right after that, so I doubt I cracked one but maybe. Between then and now it had old fuel and got flooded, so maybe the plugs are just fouled. I'll get it figured out by this time tomorrow I hope. Have seen some of those Chryslers with a gm hei from those older first generation systems. The module gets bolted to firewall and I think wired to original pickup unit. 2 Quote
dale560 Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 Putting a gm reman 6l80 in my 2013 Chevy. Don’t have actual pictures of the job but this weekend will get some. Any ways transmission from gm is 4200 plus other fees. Radiator , transmission cooler and new lines are around 600 plus other incidentals will have almost 6000 into this with my labor. But I don’t mind. In a month or 2 I am going to change engine oil pump, timing chain and all the front suspension wear parts another 1500 or so I have half those parts purchased. The pickup is a look alike to mine. 4 Quote
farmallman77 Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 Starting my 3 btm restoration. Got the old thing sand blasted and started primer. About half complete. 5 Quote
Gearclash Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 2 hours ago, dale560 said: Putting a gm reman 6l80 in my 2013 Chevy. Don’t have actual pictures of the job but this weekend will get some. Any ways transmission from gm is 4200 plus other fees. Radiator , transmission cooler and new lines are around 600 plus other incidentals will have almost 6000 into this with my labor. FWIW I replaced the 6L80 in our Suburban this summer. Put in a reman from Certified Transmission out of Omaha. I believe the transmission was right at $3,000 (we opted for the shorter warranty). Rather than replace the coolers and lines, I flushed them back and forth extensively with pumped fluid and air, then installed a stand alone filter in the line that returns to the trans sump. Trailered it to the local dealer to get the TCM programed. All in all a job I despise. My ’99 Ram 2500 manual trans is a treat to work on compared to the GM PITA. Quote
Gearclash Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 5 hours ago, ky966boy said: That’s a pile rollers thought I was a big shot with 2 . I usually only run 2. Last year I ran 3 for a while, and this fall I ran 3 for one day. I only have two baler tractors so I need to rent a tractor if I want to run more. The BR is in semi retirement as it can’t keep up with the 560s in cornstalks, and the 2018s have a lot of bales on them. 5 hours ago, CIHTECH said: Which one has served you the best? The answer to that is complicated. They all have been good to me all things considered. The BR780A is the first baler I bought back in ’08. 24,000 bales on it now and it has been a pretty reliable machine. Even though it has been tweaked for better performance it is still 10 bales an hour slower than the 560s if they are all in cornstalks. In hay and bean straw the difference is less. The 2018s I bought new late that year and the average bale count between them is 27,000. They were pretty good until 2023 when they had enough use on them to reveal some weak points. Those have been resolved but one of those balers will never be quite right again as it got twisted from a catastrophic tailgate hinge failure. I plan to keep them running for a few more years yet. The 2023 has had more problems than I would like to see for such a new machine. Had a nose roll bearing fail last year, and this year its been a wrap actuator failure, trouble with the hydraulic hoses and wire harness not routed correctly and getting into the bale size linkage, and a bearing/housing failure with the follower roll. All kinda dumb problems for a baler just under 10,000 bales. I bought this baler with 3,100 bales on it and am reminded why I don’t like to buy them used. Haven’t had any real problems with the 2021, but I bought it with only 300 bales and this is the first year with it. I did have to swap out the sledge frame and follower roll but I knew that was likely to happen before I bought it as it is a Specialty Crop Plus and the “Plus” part of that package doesn’t play nice out here. About 6,000 bales on that baler now. In the past I owned another BR780A and a BR7090 and sold both of those as they just had too many problems for what we were trying to do with them. Rather interesting that both owners have been happy with them. Quote
mike newman Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 On 1/24/2023 at 5:23 AM, KY2674 said: Just finished painting the komatsu, now a few rollers,starter and fuel shut off. Painting 1066 for a friend and helping son get a 455 in his Buick Did a lot of hours on a D61EX......discing and blade work ...roading etc.... Very good machine , just a bit bigger than the olderD58...No six way on the D61 EX Your Komatsu looks good... do you do ''general blade work..or more specific tasks ?? Mike Quote
dale560 Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 8 hours ago, Gearclash said: FWIW I replaced the 6L80 in our Suburban this summer. Put in a reman from Certified Transmission out of Omaha. I believe the transmission was right at $3,000 (we opted for the shorter warranty). Rather than replace the coolers and lines, I flushed them back and forth extensively with pumped fluid and air, then installed a stand alone filter in the line that returns to the trans sump. Trailered it to the local dealer to get the TCM programed. All in all a job I despise. My ’99 Ram 2500 manual trans is a treat to work on compared to the GM PITA. Yes I could have tried to flush it but radiator was leaking on end caps when cold so time for a new one. I don’t mind changing those transmissions just got out of practice a bit. Pickup has 265,000 miles so time for some needed maintenance. Quote
Gearclash Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 27 minutes ago, dale560 said: Yes I could have tried to flush it but radiator was leaking on end caps when cold so time for a new one. I don’t mind changing those transmissions just got out of practice a bit. Pickup has 265,000 miles so time for some needed maintenance. Leaky radiator changes things rather. We only had 15X,000 miles on ours. Torque converter probably failed first on ours and sent trash through everything, then it wouldn’t shift right. After researching the (many) problems the 6L80 can have I was determined that any reman I put in not have a GM torque convertor. Quote
dale560 Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 4 hours ago, Gearclash said: Leaky radiator changes things rather. We only had 15X,000 miles on ours. Torque converter probably failed first on ours and sent trash through everything, then it wouldn’t shift right. After researching the (many) problems the 6L80 can have I was determined that any reman I put in not have a GM torque convertor. And the regulator valve on pump wears. Really every transmission gm makes has converter clutch issues at high miles. As do almost every transmission. Quote
IHKeith Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 Swapping an engine in this 90 Chevy. 2 Quote
dale560 Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 2 minutes ago, IHKeith said: Swapping an engine in this 90 Chevy. I have a 90 Chevy with a cast iron 4 speed. I have changed the engine I think 4 times on it. First time I put a 305 out of an 87 in it for previous owner. That guy drove it for a while and it quit. I traded it from him for some work when he went broke. I put a used engine in it for 200 bucks that one blew a head gasket later on then I found a low mileage used one to put in. This pickup came from Idaho dept of natural resources originally so 350 4 speed 4 wd with heavy suspension but light rear axle. I also have a 94 extended cab that I put a new 350 in 4 years ago. It has about 500 miles on now. 1 Quote
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