hardtail Posted December 9, 2024 Posted December 9, 2024 I detest those VVT engines, all those extra components for what? They can get 400hp out of a snowmobile engine less than a litre displacement so it's not performance 2 Quote
460 Posted December 9, 2024 Posted December 9, 2024 6 hours ago, hardtail said: I detest those VVT engines, all those extra components for what? They can get 400hp out of a snowmobile engine less than a litre displacement so it's not performance I get it but if it works and doesn't fail then I am OK with it. I think with the VVT this makes a flat torque curve from like 2000-3000rpm can't remember. Quote
new guy Posted December 10, 2024 Posted December 10, 2024 Hunting for a 1 piece to replace my 2 piece thing a jig... 7 1 1 Quote
mader656 Posted December 10, 2024 Posted December 10, 2024 Still gotta tie up wires but built a 942 amp hour lifepo4 batterybamk for my house. About half the cost of lead acid. 10 1 Quote
oleman Posted December 10, 2024 Posted December 10, 2024 20 hours ago, new guy said: Hunting for a 1 piece to replace my 2 piece thing a jig... If you have a Borg Warner there or some other still available Company there are probably drive yokes available. I wanted to use a NP435 in a Dodge Ramcharger with a Dana 70 RE from a Dodge Diesel 250 and I wanted to use the shortened large U-joint driveshaft. A 4X4 place in Wisconsin, had the correct shaft size, spline count and U-joint size I wanted. They also had a new reverse idler gear for the NP435. Quote
new guy Posted December 11, 2024 Posted December 11, 2024 4 hours ago, oleman said: If you have a Borg Warner there or some other still available Company there are probably drive yokes available. I wanted to use a NP435 in a Dodge Ramcharger with a Dana 70 RE from a Dodge Diesel 250 and I wanted to use the shortened large U-joint driveshaft. A 4X4 place in Wisconsin, had the correct shaft size, spline count and U-joint size I wanted. They also had a new reverse idler gear for the NP435. Meritor differential in my Freightliner. Little bigger than they used in the Dodge Ramcharger. Loud bang, no go anywhere... 2 Quote
nate Posted December 11, 2024 Posted December 11, 2024 2 hours ago, new guy said: Meritor differential in my Freightliner. Little bigger than they used in the Dodge Ramcharger. Loud bang, no go anywhere... Looks like a few different power hop situations getting it out of a field! Lol 1 Quote
billonthefarm Posted December 11, 2024 Author Posted December 11, 2024 Shop work, hauling grain and some last minute field work. 12 Quote
Alan Dinan Posted December 11, 2024 Posted December 11, 2024 4 hours ago, new guy said: Meritor differential in my Freightliner. Little bigger than they used in the Dodge Ramcharger. Loud bang, no go anywhere... Did that to a heavy haul truck at work last year. Taking off from a light, let the clutch out, loud pop and no go. Found the pieces had rust in the break, mechanic was happy that it happened close to the shop and only had a 35K load on it. Quote
IHKeith Posted December 11, 2024 Posted December 11, 2024 This 2001 GMC 2500 HD 8.1L is getting a new rear differential carrier, the owner supplied a new one, looks like it might be a cone type posi, the original is the governor type, it doesn’t work, those governor types can be ok but when they fall and a guy wants to upgrade I think a non governor type is the way to go 9 Quote
hardtail Posted December 11, 2024 Posted December 11, 2024 That the same as the Dmax ones, they had a big ring gear. Quote
new guy Posted December 12, 2024 Posted December 12, 2024 23 hours ago, nate said: Looks like a few different power hop situations getting it out of a field! Lol Not since I have been driving it but who knows what the previous owners have done. It has had a crack for a long time evidently judging by the rusty area in the lower left of the pic. Just glad it popped at the farm and not pulling up on to the scale at the elevator... Quote
IHKeith Posted December 12, 2024 Posted December 12, 2024 On 12/11/2024 at 8:07 AM, hardtail said: That the same as the Dmax ones, they had a big ring gear. Yes it’s an 11.5” ring gear 1 Quote
IHKeith Posted December 12, 2024 Posted December 12, 2024 Changing the water pump and doing some other maintenance on my Cadillac 6 Quote
searcyfarms Posted December 13, 2024 Posted December 13, 2024 Been doing some side huslte work - before n afters..... that pond kicked my butt 11 Quote
IHandJDman Posted December 13, 2024 Posted December 13, 2024 Finally got this book. So I'm going to be working on it for the next few days. 9 Quote
MT Matt Posted December 14, 2024 Posted December 14, 2024 Mostly been working on lures for my upcoming trip but had to change the leaking oil cooler lines in my 2000 GMC 6.0 before the trip. Took a couple days and much head scratching but got it done. Chevy “retrofitted” older trucks with newer model oil lines which were shaped differently. So the lines I got from Napa didn’t look the same. I then called the dealership and they had a set on hand based on my VIN #. Ok, had to drive an hour to Missoula anyways so stopped in. They looked just like the set from Napa but $110 more expensive. Man, this won’t work! Well the parts guy was pretty helpful and was able to dig up the notes on the part. Chevy decided to change the line shape to match the newer model and it fits. How the **** does it go in there I asked? Don’t know but this is it. Better YouTube it. So after 6 YouTube videos I finally found the one that showed how to do it. The set of lines have a block that bolts to the rear of the motor by the pan. Runs to the front and then attaches to the side of the radiator. Wish I had taken a couple pics. Take the tire off and the inner fender. Had it up on a lift. Then unbolt the motor mount. Take off the power steering lines. Jack up one side of the motor to separate the motor mount. Snake the cooler lines through the wires from front to back and then slide through the open motor mount. And it fit. Job done, just grease up to my shoulders but no more seepage. 8 Quote
searcyfarms Posted December 14, 2024 Posted December 14, 2024 5 hours ago, MT Matt said: Mostly been working on lures for my upcoming trip but had to change the leaking oil cooler lines in my 2000 GMC 6.0 before the trip. Took a couple days and much head scratching but got it done. Chevy “retrofitted” older trucks with newer model oil lines which were shaped differently. So the lines I got from Napa didn’t look the same. I then called the dealership and they had a set on hand based on my VIN #. Ok, had to drive an hour to Missoula anyways so stopped in. They looked just like the set from Napa but $110 more expensive. Man, this won’t work! Well the parts guy was pretty helpful and was able to dig up the notes on the part. Chevy decided to change the line shape to match the newer model and it fits. How the **** does it go in there I asked? Don’t know but this is it. Better YouTube it. So after 6 YouTube videos I finally found the one that showed how to do it. The set of lines have a block that bolts to the rear of the motor by the pan. Runs to the front and then attaches to the side of the radiator. Wish I had taken a couple pics. Take the tire off and the inner fender. Had it up on a lift. Then unbolt the motor mount. Take off the power steering lines. Jack up one side of the motor to separate the motor mount. Snake the cooler lines through the wires from front to back and then slide through the open motor mount. And it fit. Job done, just grease up to my shoulders but no more seepage. whoa that sounds like one of my adventures, nothing the same, no instruction, my wallet/budget makes me try to do things myself and low/behold what i thot would be an hour or two of work turns into two days and a lot of frustration. thank god for youtube/google and people that share their grief and hardship trying to make things work and save $$ like us - I have yet to have teh confidence to tear into something so large as splitting a tractor 3 Quote
Dirt_Floor_Poor Posted December 14, 2024 Posted December 14, 2024 The transmission oil cooler lines on my older Ford truck were in terrible shape. They were all bent up from years of driving in fields and I had brazed several holes over the years. I just ordered a box of rubber cooler lines from Jeg’s. I ran them how I thought they should be run. $50 for 25 feet and no ridiculous line routing. 5 Quote
billonthefarm Posted December 15, 2024 Author Posted December 15, 2024 Wrapped up the cam shaft replacement today. Ready to go back to work. 13 Quote
searcyfarms Posted December 15, 2024 Posted December 15, 2024 1 hour ago, billonthefarm said: Wrapped up the cam shaft replacement today. Ready to go back to work. Nice!!!!!! Giddy up ole girl!!! Quote
db1486 Posted December 15, 2024 Posted December 15, 2024 17 hours ago, MT Matt said: Mostly been working on lures for my upcoming trip but had to change the leaking oil cooler lines in my 2000 GMC 6.0 before the trip. Took a couple days and much head scratching but got it done. Chevy “retrofitted” older trucks with newer model oil lines which were shaped differently. So the lines I got from Napa didn’t look the same. I then called the dealership and they had a set on hand based on my VIN #. Ok, had to drive an hour to Missoula anyways so stopped in. They looked just like the set from Napa but $110 more expensive. Man, this won’t work! Well the parts guy was pretty helpful and was able to dig up the notes on the part. Chevy decided to change the line shape to match the newer model and it fits. How the **** does it go in there I asked? Don’t know but this is it. Better YouTube it. So after 6 YouTube videos I finally found the one that showed how to do it. The set of lines have a block that bolts to the rear of the motor by the pan. Runs to the front and then attaches to the side of the radiator. Wish I had taken a couple pics. Take the tire off and the inner fender. Had it up on a lift. Then unbolt the motor mount. Take off the power steering lines. Jack up one side of the motor to separate the motor mount. Snake the cooler lines through the wires from front to back and then slide through the open motor mount. And it fit. Job done, just grease up to my shoulders but no more seepage. Hopefully the lines at least last! I have had very poor luck with aftermarket cooler and power steering lines lasting. I've been buying crimp on compression fittings and using hydraulic hose instead. Most times I don't even have to remove the steel line off the vehicle which sure saves alot of time and extra work. Just cut it where it's accessible and slide the new one on and done 3 Quote
MT Matt Posted December 15, 2024 Posted December 15, 2024 4 hours ago, db1486 said: Hopefully the lines at least last! I have had very poor luck with aftermarket cooler and power steering lines lasting. I've been buying crimp on compression fittings and using hydraulic hose instead. Most times I don't even have to remove the steel line off the vehicle which sure saves alot of time and extra work. Just cut it where it's accessible and slide the new one on and done That was my thought with buying the OEM part. Hopefully it will last. 1 Quote
td9inidaho Posted December 15, 2024 Posted December 15, 2024 Time for new clutch pack in my son's bike, then later in the day, they found a way to break this part of the grinder. How, I don't know, they found a way obviously. A bit of welding, good as new Now, to figure out why the turbo on the td-8 is blowing oil out the pipe. Always something Mark 6 Quote
dale560 Posted December 15, 2024 Posted December 15, 2024 On 12/6/2024 at 5:16 AM, New Englander said: I don't know anything about that engine but wouldn't decking the block be a better fix for low liner protrusion? Years ago it was common in 3010 and 4010 diesel jd to have shims under liner flange to set protrusion. I believe shims are available for most major engines to shim liners if block is worn. 3 Quote
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