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Everything posted by searcyfarms

  1. oh its hot alright - and be sure to let it idle for 5 to 10 mins before you shut it off or you will be burning valves up too the those 6cyl gassers when working hard need to slowly cool not shut off and rapid cool or the valves warp/crack. i am not familiar with the carb adjustment on those BUT on others I use this practice on the fast idle/load/MAIN jet on most all carbs. throw that sucker WOT - easiest on a tractor to do it on a pto load because you cant walk along beside and adjust it while dragging an implement - open up that adjustment/jet until you start seeing black smoke faintly or till it blubbers a lil and screw it back in slightly - under MAX load when it starts pulling the RPMs down most tractors will start showing a faint hint of unburned fuel/darkness in exhaust as they fall down - that will get the richness proper
  2. another wood guy here - we have lots of white oak around here - been around a diamond plate and aluminum flatbed and no way would i mess with that - too bad you are in PA im going to be selling mine - 18 foot with 2 6K axles so a 12K GVWR big ole ramps ( used it for my SS sometimes ) getting ready to put new white oak deck on it before I sell it - I have a receiver hitch tube on front of the trailer and mounted winch to receiver hitch w/plate so I can slide it in/out and use as needed - works slick - i woudl NEVER put bedliner material on anything wood - it flakes/peels off in short order -obviously bedliner material is fine for metal as it sticks but that might get very spendy on an entire trailer deck - rhino and linex have a hard/soft product depending on what style you like - one goes on hot/warm the other is a cold spray. just go wood less expensive and you dont have to do all this other stuff to a metal one and spend more time/money
  3. HEAT HEAT HEAT - running hot for too long is eating them up - possibly at risk of burning a hole in a piston -386 is a hot resistor plug IIRC - maybe too lean on fuel? You can see they have been VERY VERY HOT by the colors yikes
  4. no clue what part of the country you are in BUT, for most of us its cooler if you parked that tractor away either in the dampness, where field mice are looking to build for the winter, or just the fact that its cold makes things shrink - sounds like a connection problem and since the batteries werent dead not likely a slow drain or short but poor/open connection like the fuse you jumped across. I would take a heater/blow dryer, something to heat things up/dry and expand and see if that makes any difference. In a case like this I am usually tapping, pulling, moving things around rather intentional and a little exaggerated to identify the demons. Just my thoughts
  5. sorry i couldnt resist you all can slap me later - i think i see the problem -the one 5 amp fuse on the left side is in upside down doubtful .3 ohms would cause a totaly failure like you are experiencing it appears 3A/3B are the same relay and 3C/3D are the same relay
  6. well poop that sounds like a spendy breakdown
  7. our neighbors up home use some kind of high loader too - they gave up on tractor loaders and one of the sons runs/owns the local welding/fabrication/machine shop
  8. we had a woods brother - several old farmers around had claws for hands from those
  9. even with those kind of bends and no damper you are going to create a good bit of creosote - i wouldnt bother with a damper unless you absolutely had to have one to make your stove run - do you have a heat gauge on your flu pipe to see how hot its getting to see if you are getting a good burn and less buildup? Id try it w/out damper first and see what you get - i see you are in sw iowa so you are going to be burning the same hardwoods that i burn around here - i cant see you getting any significant amount of BTU gain on your stove due to the damper - the fan you are talking about in january might be a better bet to leave on low or put a ceiling fan up to force the hot air back down.
  10. that is a memory of a lifetime!!!! i take naps like that too but most recently on the couch - when he gets really good at it he will drool out the side of his mouth and have a dirt line 😉
  11. nooooooooooooooooooooooooo dont put it up there, bad idea, askin for trouble - get a heat exchanger like mentioned above - i do not have a damper on any of my stove pipes but mine are more modern stoves - if this is an old pot belly cast iron unit then yes might be a good idea - what kind of stove is this ?
  12. rotella everywhere around here - even at wally world
  13. id bet the 282 is warped/unlevel likely need to have it planed -
  14. i went with the mp210 lincoln, its not near as big but a nice unit and portable with 110 and 220 - miller and others make comparable units - i have an ole lincoln idealarc 250 stick for the big stuff
  15. praying, get her on meds quickly if you can get someone to prescribe them
  16. nice catch its a lil less expensive and would go quicker laying it down w/out the couplings to glue/leak https://www.outdoorfurnacesupply.com/1-pexworx-non-barrier-plumbing-pex-tubing-500-blue-tnb1-500-b.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxazll5Hd8wIVAuDICh2c8wtBEAQYAiABEgJhifD_BwE
  17. all depends on how deep well ends up and how far u wanna dig lol - let the games begin - if it comes in at 25K you will half that will likely be the well or close to it. Be hard to save any $$ on that - maybe by you doing some of the trenching work you can save a little to offset some of the well costs. I know on the RATES for shared costs on anything related to FSA/NRCS contracts that I have been engaged in they have set prices they go by regardless of what you get for bids or someone to do it for. I am talking rates for land contracts such as CRP - mowing, spraying, disking, drilling, etc........... they may do your type of situation different it would be worth an ask so you dont have to waste time on bids/pricing if they are going to go by a regional standard avg cost.
  18. poof and there it is, the ditch witch, case or vermeer trencher with 200' per hour and another 2000' per day at a long 10 hour or more day likely, and the costs, weeeeeeeeeeeeeellllllllllllll, its gonna be spendy, digging teh well will be a bunch!!! my cousin had a well dug here last spring/summer and it was over 10K for 200 feet what did you think it was going to cost ?
  19. yes i wore my hoodie cause i didnt want someone to see me on that non IH unit
  20. wish you guys were closer I got a job for ya
  21. yes its not cheap - and the ride ons go pretty good and easier to manipulate - the thing about the skidsteer is you get a kink in your neck going backwards not sure what specs/size you are putting in but just 1inch pvc plus glue/couplings is going to run close to a buck a foot. so 2 bucks a foot for trenching is cheap also. You would be pretty hard pressed to find that around here that is why i said more likely close to 4. I used the gasline from yesterday to compare because its plastic pipe and only 5/8 inch and it was 2.75/foot. so yes 1000 feet of contracted price is 3 to 4 K bucks you have a substantial project on your hands. Minimum for water lines here would be 48" for our temps you might need deeper there ? are you just putting in hydrants at the end of these runs ?
  22. to be non political, Seth go with the circular tires, they seem to roll best vs the square chiseled ones - I am sorry for anything I said that hurt anyones feelings or caused stress regarding goodyear
  23. ive ran a couple diff trenchers over teh years my favorite was ditch witch and went 4 foot on drain lines in pastures. my second would be a trencher on a Skid Steer - for 1000s of feet no way in the world i would use a walk behind that would be miserable it would also depend on what kind of soil/rocks you anticipate dealing with here i can rent a BIG skidsteer with at 6 foot trencher for about 500/day for all of it. a week rental would be 1500 trenching prices here are around 3.00/4.00 foot for water line thats easy math to pay for the work/costs and then varies with type of pipe/size. Neighbor had plastic gas line installed yest for 2.75/foot once u get onto the skidsteer trencher and if its good dirt you can cruise right along - speed will vary with depth of course and soils w/out roots n rocks - guessing at least 200'/hour would be reasonable
  24. at 3.50 per foot that spendy not to mention the work and posts required - in missouri you can get a damage permit and are allow to harvest deer due to damage - I have obtained a couple not sure if IA does that or not. You are allowed to use spotlights, bait and can shoot at night. they do not like my electric fence around my garden or all the white flags i put up blowing in the wind, not sure that would work for such a large area but pretty cheap to install
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