What ya working on?

[Dirt_Floor_Poor]

1 hour ago, New Englander said:

I'd be getting that engine out and apart before doing anything else. At 2500 hours it may be repairable and not a total loss. It could be the oil pump itself and the filter, if it didn't bypass, may have caught it all. Of course it may be junk but you don't know the extent of the problem now.

EDIT: I say the above from experience. Many years ago I was working on a Continental O520 engine with low oil pressure. I cut the filter open and it was full of mostly aluminum with a little bit of ferrous metal. The Continental rep said before you pull that engine pull the propeller governor and see if there's any metal in the screen on the base. There wasn't. He said good, pull the oil pump off and there was the problem. Surprisingly a gear tooth chipped and chewed up the housing. The give away that there was no contamination in the oil galleys was the clean governor screen so what ever had failed, in this case the pump, hadn't contaminated the whole engine. It could have been something else that failed that would have required pulling but it may have been a repair, not an overhaul.

I hope you're that lucky! It's probably not so simple since it won't start but gotta have a look!

It’s just not worth it. It will take me and two other guys probably all day to get the head off, get loaded, hauled home, and unloaded. And we’ll probably need at least one, maybe two articulated 4wd’s just to pull it around and try and push it on the trailer. The dealer quoted me 40 hours just to R and R the engine. The bearings are obviously trashed because there is so much of them in the filter. We could easily spend two weeks fiddling with this trying to get by with as little as possible. Then, only to have another questionable part let go in 100 hrs and do the whole thing over. It’s the same problem with rebuilds. We could probably rebuild it for substantially less. But, then it pokes a rod out the side in 50 hrs from a bad part. You get no warranty because they claim you did something improperly. Even though you didn’t, you can’t prove it and your warranty claim is denied. If the reman blows up, it’s covered. It’s just too much money with a high risk of failure. I’m terrified of a catastrophic hydrostatic/hydraulic failure at some point in the future that will be just as bad. We’re far from rich and these bills are hard to pay. 

[Lazy WP]

29 minutes ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

You get no warranty because they claim you did something improperly

That is why I am done with any dealer work. Doesn’t matter if it’s Cat, Cummins, Detroit, PACCAR, Freightliner, CaseIH, or Deere. They all claim to have great warranty deals, but I have never had any issues repaired, without costing me more than I would have spent having an independent shop fix it. 
In my case, I can normally stand the repair bill, it’s the 3 week down time that kills me. 
 

Please take this as its meant, you should have bought red😊

[SONNY]

movin concrete blocks again. weather not great. Here is a short vid of the tile machine from last week. Finished that line. Got 1 more short waterway to fix sinkholes in but that wont happen this year.

 

 

[Cool1566]

6 hours ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

 I’m terrified of a catastrophic hydrostatic/hydraulic failure at some point in the future that will be just as bad. We’re far from rich and these bills are hard to pay. 

Neighbor has two S790s. Both a few years old. One blew a head gasket that caused the machine to be down for several weeks while the dealer pulled the engine etc.. The other had one of the catastrophic hydrostatic failures you mentioned above. Sent shavings and crap through the whole hyd system.  This was in the same year as the head gasket failure too.  
We run two S690s and although the separator is relatively easy to keep in shape, my confidence in the major components is waning…

[td9inidaho]

Just another day in paradise, down to one saw, as the other decided it wants new bearings.  Plenty of these big boys to drop and haul out 

Mark

[Gearclash]

On 11/27/2024 at 8:10 PM, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

I spent quite a bit of time today looking at options. Parts had told me that no reman was available and that a replacement was over $90,000. After talking with the service manager, who I know pretty well, she found one reman available for $63,000. I guess that’s better, but still a lot. This serial # range has known head bolt problems and it was updated in 2022. A lot of good that did. 
 

We’re not done and have a ways to go yet. We have decided to do nothing right now and let it sit where it died. We kept all of our old, high hour machines when we bought this thing. I was already using one of them along side this one, so I guess I’ll get one of the other ones back out too. 
 

While talking to the service manager I was informed of “several” repairs this fall that were over $200,000. I’m not sure how many “several” was, but it sounded like quite a few. Apparently there is a known manufacturing defect in the hydraulic system of newer S780 and possibly S790 machines. It is failing and taking out every single hydraulic component when it goes. I’m not sure who is standing the bill on that. 

You are the only one that really knows how the numbers work for you but it may be the most cost effective to hire at least some of the rest of your crop harvesting this year.  Seems, at least here, that hiring a combine is one of the least expensive custom operations relatively speaking.  And since you have all the support equipment already you would only need to hire the combine. Might buy you enough time to find a much less expensive way to either replace your combine or get it going again.  Just my 2 cents worth.  

Repair costs have burgeoned in the last few years.  A roller failure in one of my round balers used to cost 4-600 dollars, now it is more like $1200.  Has me looking at making my own parts, not least of all because of the factory parts have bad designing in them.  

[Reichow7120]

On 11/27/2024 at 10:04 AM, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

I spent all day yesterday working on our S680 Deere combine after it shut down saying it had low oil pressure. I was sure it was a bad sensor as that has happened before. After replacing the sensor, it would not start to test the oil pressure. The batteries seemed weak, but after replacement, no change. After failing to get it started after a lot of work, the oil filter was pulled and inspected. I found major chunks of metal in the filter. It has obviously experienced a catastrophic failure of some kind. The cost of a replacement engine looks to be over $90,000. No labor, just the engine. Less than 10 years old with 2,500 hours. What a disappointment.

Not being familiar completely with Deere engines and combines. What the S series runs as engines much different than what the 70 series before ran?

Reason I ask this is i swear i have read and heard about issues with the 70 series engines having issues. What I swear i have heard was when Deere turned them up the engine was at the upper limits then. They never beefed it up. They just sent it. When  turned up and once the engine hit a certain hrs amount it was a gernade with the pin pulled. The finial point of destruction may vary but chances were good it was going to happen. 

 

[766 Man]

1 hour ago, Gearclash said:

You are the only one that really knows how the numbers work for you but it may be the most cost effective to hire at least some of the rest of your crop harvesting this year.  Seems, at least here, that hiring a combine is one of the least expensive custom operations relatively speaking.  And since you have all the support equipment already you would only need to hire the combine. Might buy you enough time to find a much less expensive way to either replace your combine or get it going again.  Just my 2 cents worth.  

Repair costs have burgeoned in the last few years.  A roller failure in one of my round balers used to cost 4-600 dollars, now it is more like $1200.  Has me looking at making my own parts, not least of all because of the factory parts have bad designing in them.  

  Custom hire can be hit or miss around here.  Sometimes they will not come if you do not promise to sell the farm to them right away.

[Dirt_Floor_Poor]

6 minutes ago, Reichow7120 said:

Not being familiar completely with Deere engines and combines. What the S series runs as engines much different than what the 70 series before ran?

Reason I ask this is i swear i have read and heard about issues with the 70 series engines having issues. What I swear i have heard was when Deere turned them up the engine was at the upper limits then. They never beefed it up. They just sent it. When  turned up and once the engine hit a certain hrs amount it was a gernade with the pin pulled. The finial point of destruction may vary but chances were good it was going to happen. 

 

The most common 70 series here was the 9770. It used a 9.0 engine. I have never owned one in a combine, but have in tractors. There have been lots of failures in combines, but overall I would say it is regarded as a good machine. The 9870 used the 13.5, but that is not a common machine around here. I have a 13.5 in a tractor with far more hours than this combine and have never had any issues. I would say the Tier IV Final engines probably have the worst reputation of the bunch, but not a terrible reputation in general. 

[Reichow7120]

8 minutes ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

The most common 70 series here was the 9770. It used a 9.0 engine. I have never owned one in a combine, but have in tractors. There have been lots of failures in combines, but overall I would say it is regarded as a good machine. The 9870 used the 13.5, but that is not a common machine around here. I have a 13.5 in a tractor with far more hours than this combine and have never had any issues. I would say the Tier IV Final engines probably have the worst reputation of the bunch, but not a terrible reputation in general. 

I only really heard of the issue in the combines. Nothing really in the tractors like you said. Kinda like the 8.3 in the 1660s and 80 when they went from the IH 400 series to the Cummins 8.3. Couldn't spool up a 8.3 like you could a 436 or 466. They didn't like it up there with those types of RPMs.

[Gearclash]

Seems like too many of 9.0 Deeres in a combine get pulled for water in the oil — head gasket leaked — lack of liner(s) protrusion.  
 

Deere’ solution was simply to shim the liner but my JD tech friend deemed that a band aid fix on a wound needing stitches. He said if you were to check closely, the counter bore seat and the liner flange would be worn, and likely off square to the bore. 

[Gearclash]

Enough to make a person scream with frustration at engineers. Too many are impractical bird brains. Figuring the bolt hole spacing on this part. Off a 2018 NH baler. Came up with 1-13/16”, 13-21/32”, and 14-11/16”.  And before you holler “they are metric”, I very much doubt it as measurements of this size in mm are typically in pretty even mm sizes and these are not.  This is not the first time I have seen the engineers of NH balers use absurd SAE measurements. The bolts and holes, incidentally, are metric as is the counterbore on one side of the hole. 

[DT Fan]

Toolbox! Battled  the crowd at Mills Fleet Farm and got my new box. They had a different one on sale but opted for this instead. It wasn't 'on sale' but seems like it was quite a bit less than when I was there a month ago.

[IHKeith]

This F550 is a tight fit in my little garage.  I’m doing a wiper transmission and an oil change and it’s cold and dark outside, usually I work on something this big outside, the odd time I use one of my Dad’s shops. 

[MT Matt]

Did a little work on the 650.

Fuel tank is off and clutch cover.

No wonder the clutch is stuck!

Two of these were permanently sleeping in there.

I emptied the shop vac three times before I reached the bottom. There is a little more under the flywheel to pick at. The hand clutch snaps over and everything moves correctly. I sprayed everything down and will let it soak a few days.

I suppose I won’t be lucky and just drop the pressure plate and be able to get the disk loose. But I’ll start there. Looks tight to get everything out and I’m sure every single piece will need to come out in the end.

But wait, there’s more!  The engine is free!!!  It moved a little bit when I took out the starter previously. I sprayed oil in the plug holes the other day. I was able to get a bar on the flywheel and rock it back and forth. A couple times and it freed right up. What a relief!!!

[billonthefarm]

[hardtail]

4 hours ago, MT Matt said:

Did a little work on the 650.

Fuel tank is off and clutch cover.

No wonder the clutch is stuck!

Two of these were permanently sleeping in there.

I emptied the shop vac three times before I reached the bottom. There is a little more under the flywheel to pick at. The hand clutch snaps over and everything moves correctly. I sprayed everything down and will let it soak a few days.

I suppose I won’t be lucky and just drop the pressure plate and be able to get the disk loose. But I’ll start there. Looks tight to get everything out and I’m sure every single piece will need to come out in the end.

But wait, there’s more!  The engine is free!!!  It moved a little bit when I took out the starter previously. I sprayed oil in the plug holes the other day. I was able to get a bar on the flywheel and rock it back and forth. A couple times and it freed right up. What a relief!!!

Condo living in rural MT 🙄

[searcyfarms]

On 11/28/2024 at 7:15 AM, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

It’s just not worth it. It will take me and two other guys probably all day to get the head off, get loaded, hauled home, and unloaded. And we’ll probably need at least one, maybe two articulated 4wd’s just to pull it around and try and push it on the trailer. The dealer quoted me 40 hours just to R and R the engine. The bearings are obviously trashed because there is so much of them in the filter. We could easily spend two weeks fiddling with this trying to get by with as little as possible. Then, only to have another questionable part let go in 100 hrs and do the whole thing over. It’s the same problem with rebuilds. We could probably rebuild it for substantially less. But, then it pokes a rod out the side in 50 hrs from a bad part. You get no warranty because they claim you did something improperly. Even though you didn’t, you can’t prove it and your warranty claim is denied. If the reman blows up, it’s covered. It’s just too much money with a high risk of failure. I’m terrified of a catastrophic hydrostatic/hydraulic failure at some point in the future that will be just as bad. We’re far from rich and these bills are hard to pay. 

i dont know what to say man, thats awful, i thot 16500 for our new furnace was too much and is hard this time of year with taxes due and cmas so im trying to do some side hustle business, i hope you get your older units going to carry you through - hang in there !! it gets frustrating and wears on a guy

[SONNY]

hauling concrete blocks home from where we had to unload them last Dec.--- 8 to 10 thousand of them.

got MOOSE parked for the winter.

[New Englander]

On 11/29/2024 at 4:38 PM, Gearclash said:

Seems like too many of 9.0 Deeres in a combine get pulled for water in the oil — head gasket leaked — lack of liner(s) protrusion.  
 

Deere’ solution was simply to shim the liner but my JD tech friend deemed that a band aid fix on a wound needing stitches. He said if you were to check closely, the counter bore seat and the liner flange would be worn, and likely off square to the bore. 

I don't know anything about that engine but wouldn't decking the block be a better fix for low liner protrusion? 

[Gearclash]

2 hours ago, New Englander said:

I don't know anything about that engine but wouldn't decking the block be a better fix for low liner protrusion? 

Decking the block and recutting the counterbores is the correct fix for the Deere 9.0 block but it is very expensive compared to shimming the liners.  

[DT Fan]

Drill press drive belt, got the darn thing off. Was a real head-scratcher. New one should last me the rest of my life.

[5488ih]

Got every exhaust manifold bolt out! Nothing broken. 👍

[billonthefarm]

The new cam and lifters cam so time to stick this back together.

[460]

My wifes, 2019 Malibu 1.5L 76K, pulled valve cover to replace orifice PVC from code P1101 and pressure in crankcase.  Sure enough it was plugged solid.  It is going back together with a modified valve cover with a 1/8" pipe plug to clean the top of the orifice PVC from the top, without full tear down.  Hopefully all the parts show up to put together next weekend.