460

I agree bought 24v set at a pawn shop years ago. I eventually added the string trimmer, blower for my mom. No issues except the drill chuck on the drill, was a pain to remove it. You can pick up lightly used on FB market place pretty cheap.

Glad I took Auto's in HS, as the shop teacher said "if nothing else you will know enough to talk intelligently to the mechanics doing the repair". After HS I turned wrenches for a place that did farming, trucking and auto repair for customers. The diversity taught me alot. I can say we were a fair shop. Today I do most of my own maintenance and repair. I have a story of my BIL took his Explorer to the Ford dealership in AZ. I think it was for tires. They said his AC was not working and quoted a cost for repair, he said don't worry about it. He had issues with a blend door or vacuum lines, so he figured he knew the problem. Come to find out they sabotaged something with the AC so it would not work, making something up when diagnosed it. Also have my SIL that took her newer Chevrolet Eqinox in for a oil change. Apparently they over filled it and she drove across state. Not long into the drive it threw all kinds of dash lights. I never heard what the oil change did or paid the bill at the chevrolet dealer. With just these examples I have very little faith in shops. I feel even the decent ones are trying to beat the flat rate pay in a damn big hurry. I think back to yesteryear when you would take your farmall H-M in for service and there was a old IH mechanic that took pride in that winter overhaul. Scott

Ford has been doing this since the early 90's with the 4.6 and 5.4. To resize the rod, they bore out the housing for a thicker bearing.

Yes footing is the full perimeter. That is doorway and sand has settled over the footing from the rains and driving over.

Well it will be a while before we pour the floor.

Yeah, sand is a no due to ants. They would find it and have a field day!

There is a 14x54" cement footing under the block. This is common from what I know. Block is not to common any more for basements, they are all poured these days. R rating on block was either .5 or 1. The foam is 6.5 so there is that. Scott

Moving dirt with the 244, spreading with the 656.

Any opinions on foaming block cavity? The floor will be heated with 2" of foam. Location in SE Michigan. I also am planning putting foam board beveled 1-2" below the top of the floor along the block to aid in helping hold the slab heat. I bought a foam kit for just under $300. If nothing else I feel it will be tighter from insects. I will cut off the excess just before we set the walls which should be in a couple of weeks. Before: after

I have straightened 2 set, use heat and chain hoist with hooks or loops welded to the supports. Heat-pull-heat-pull. Besides the obvious damaged ones, I always thought the metal relaxed over the years.

After seeing the video, I wonder what the next series model numbers would have been on the after the XX88?

No don't know that one.

Can do! I have AutoCAD 2022. Did my own garage plans for my township. I printed from AutoCAD to a PDF and printed at FedEx Kinko's. Before doing mine I did a garage for a friend in Texas that I know from my Mustang forum.

If you are referring to C263-C301 six cylinders. They are the same as a big block Mopar, if I remember right 2.125 or 2.25 dia. Went through this as I needed a high flow for one of my builds.

Yes I agree on welding, had my machinist year ago weld up a plug hole on a Johnson Seahorse. Machinist claimed the threads are stronger then the original cast threads. But in this case I would attempt to do a threaded insert. Scott