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460

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About 460

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/17/1980

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SE Michigan
  • Interests
    Thats me on the 460 pulling in 2006 at our local fair

    Interests: farming 5 acres LOL, street/strip 92 mustang, motorcycles, gardening, hunting, snowmobiling, building engines

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  1. Yes that was the late Morice and Shella Stine and always a strong competitor.
  2. I pull my 656 gasser in 9K farm class once a year at the local fair or someone does a neighbor or friend of family, I have yet to run it but this year that will change. I have 16.9 GY Radials which help alot. I have a hitch fastened directly to the square tube and shim it to height accordingly. I had it water jetted out of 1.25 steel and uses x2 3/4" bolts attached through the square tube. I made it so I could adjust it forward and back depending on track conditions. I can get you a picture at some point. I run a belly bracket and quick hitch for Ballest. I did however bend the square t
  3. One thing I do with all the sediment bowls is drill them out on both inlet and outlet. I also make sure there is no screen in tank or extension into tank. I want the water or sediment to settle into the bowl not bottom of the tank. I have seen a few severely rusted tanks from water that was trapped and had no way to escape. I expect if it is a fuel delivery problem as using the procedure proscribed by Gearclash using the choke to recover it, usually 1/4 choke allows that extra signal across the venturi. If already confirmed no vacuum leaks and spark is good, timing set, I found with t
  4. And if the OEM will even give up there precious drawings what will they supply a scanned draftsman drawing. They need a solid model in CAD to program there CNC. Gibtec or any piston manufacturer has the ability to scan a existing design and import it into CAD. Any piston designs I have done I sent them a solid model in either native Solid Works or IGS files. I'm not sure on the point on Hastings...I guess I was trying to suggest if you are going custom pistons you might as well update the ring pack to the 21st century this is far beyond what Hastings can offer.
  5. You could as already stated measure the ring lands for wear or if collapsed. If the above checks out, you could debur knocking down the high spots and edges with a sanding disc. The first shows what appears to be embedded steel all that needs to removed as this creates hot spots or could eventually become dislodged. Now if I wanted it to last I would box the best piston up, ship it up to Gibtec in Denver, Colorado and have 4 new pistons made and bore the block to that new custom piston size...I would put a modern ring from Total Seal based on Gibtec's and your engine shops recommendatio
  6. I am not either but I don't recall the moisture out of the propane units I have been around. In the late 90's to early 2000's I worked at a machine shop that did a lot of rebuilding of propane powered 4.3L chevy's. They were hard on exhaust seats and valves! Clean burning as compared to gasoline! Scott
  7. I agree on the above on know this engine was a pain for Tony. The more I think about the moisture in the exhaust the more concerned I get. Unless he has some bad LP fuel you should not have any moisture in the exhaust especially LP. It burns 🔥 hotter then gasoline and dryer.
  8. Priorities! Cup holders are most important duh! As for the 3.5 I don't own one. I went 5.0 V8 when I bought my 14 F-150 when I heard they were going aluminum I found a 14 on the lot before the 15's no regrets. Scott
  9. Tony first things first that NGK AB6 is 6 heat range and is too cold. My 291 build with 9:1 compression on gasoline I am using a 5 heat range. You can call NGK tech line to confirm, they recommended my plugs for me based on my application. I run plug adapters from REAM Corp so I can use a 14 mm plug for more selections if you can't find a hotter plug in 18mm. The advantage of a 14mm is they are a extended tip that allows the plug to extend further into the chamber increasing efficiency. For reference mine are a NGK TR5 2238, see pics below as comparison. Also don't be decived by the
  10. Yikes...does not look that tractor has ever seen a covered shed. I would say ASAP (All state Ag part) in the used section for your missing pieces. Those linkages are nice when working but alot of moving parts.
  11. Congratulations and by the looks of it that was no easy win!
  12. These are the tires that we used to make into V cuts using a 18.4, when me and dad were pulling with the NA 460. They were superior to the cut F&R.
  13. Most cam guys like Berry or I believe Vogel can repair a lobe by welding if you cannot obtain a better core. In most cases they just reshape the lobe by changing the smaller base circle. My C291 has been regrind and has just over .500 lift at stock rpm.
  14. We have reground lifters in the past for pulling engines. But as of lately for my long term rebuilds and the last build I bought a set of SBI lifters the Navistar off of Ebay are the same as the C263-C301. SBI is a big engine replacement parts manufacturer from what I remember from working at a engine machine shop years ago. My concern with resurfaced lifters is removing the surface hardness lifters for long term longevity. I belive in assembly lube and proper cam break in and oil. I am still regrinding the cams from Vogel or Berry, request the ~10% plus hp on regrind.
  15. Since you can't run radials. Unless your tracks are completely gravel and poorly prepared I would stay away from new and go after used 23 degree Firestone that were offered. You want a certain amount of slippage but also don't want to be piling the dirt in front of the sled, the advantage to a cut or worn tire. The other is the bias long bar short bar Firestone that was only made for a short time. But good luck finding a set in 16.9.
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