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460

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About 460

  • Birthday 04/17/1980

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    Male
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    SE Michigan
  • Interests
    Thats me on the 460 pulling in 2006 at our local fair

    Interests: farming 5 acres LOL, street/strip 92 mustang, motorcycles, gardening, hunting, snowmobiling, building engines

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  1. Pretty interesting stuff, love to have those bins in my new shop. They are selling off everything including the bins. Wonder what happened? Scott
  2. Including height? 1" lower hitch height can make a world of difference. If it is the old factory drawbar most are bent. A fixed clevis shimmed with washers can also keep the hook higher as the clevis does sag under load, the twisted clevis is also a advantage as it sits higher then a conventional clevis and that can be shimmed rigid with washers too. I prefer cut steel plates that are adjustable by moving the bolt locations forward or back, off the drawbar depending on track conditions. It seems like your drawbar was to low. So either you need to raise it as much as the rule book allows or make a hitch that sits back farther that allows weigh transfer off the front end to the rear tires. Scott
  3. 3 rings are modern as compared to 4 rings, I have a Ford farm stock pulling engine 401cid where I left the 4th ring out. With metallurgy advancements rings have become thinner as they conform to the bore better under bore distortion. There are companies that offer ring spacers to utilize a thinner ring in a existing wider ring land piston. Total Seal is my go to for my ring needs, they seem to be the leader in cutting edge technology. Scott
  4. Have read great reviews on that Bars liquid stop leak...in fact used it on my 656 on a external seep on the HG that showed up this summer. Not a fan of liquid sealer but was not ready to tear down for a small external seap that was not getting into the cylinder so the sealer went into the rad, So far so good. Scott
  5. Thank you! Possible I think the split manifold was a failure due to transitions from the actual manifold to the mock up pipe. Did some testing the past on a truck manifolds on the previous 263 using the stock 656 carb it did not like the manifolds either. One thing I have noticed is it is very fuel efficient. It does more work with less fuel as compared to the 263. Alot I attribute to the changes I made which translates to off the governor when light loading. I have struggled with oil with this engine the 10W30 did not seem to work. I had alot of oil residue in the chambers 1-2-5-6. I expected the Nappier second ring with an 3mm oil to have superior oil control, I don't expect oil is coming from the valve guides. It shows no signs of burning oil while running, I just discovered this in a routine check. I have switched to 30W and have yet to see if this curred it. My machinist thinks it could be a reaction with the ethanol fuel. I think he has a pretty solid theory since 3-4 did not have problem and I expect better atomization with these cylinders. It does run dang good though! Scott
  6. I pulled the bull pinions out of my 656 before doing seals and if I recall reshimmed them and definently the brakes. The diff is held in with the carrier and bolts.
  7. My wife took a partial video track side, she missed the beginning. Youtube
  8. Well not what I had planned for, ran 1st high sat right at 1800rpm all way down the track and then about the 240' mark front went up a little then higher, then higher, lost my hitch height, spun out with the front end in the air I'm guessing 15-1600rpm. Next year I will leave the back bracket at home, had 450lbs off the 3pt quick hitch. Sorry no video yet but here is a screen shot of how high it went. On the bright side had no problem spinning out in high 1st.
  9. Ready for the local fair tomorrow. Can't win as dyno will not be legal I would settle for second or third though...still debating on weights between the center and rear, track conditions help decide that. I expect to not have to have to TA it in 1st and even thought about running 2nd low. Will see how it all goes tomorrow in the 9K farm class at the Armada Fair at 12pm.
  10. There should be a letter code to designate the year, should be after 3-17. For example I know "M" is 1966 it is all over the castings on my 656.
  11. I also used Power Bore in Ohio much cheaper then LA Sleeve and Darton in California. I did ductile iron in my 263 build with 3.75" bore= 291cid. Scott
  12. 460

    244 radiator

    I had my 244 recored last spring in Michigan it was nearly 400. After a failed attempt on repairing the lower tank which was mostly rotten. They built a new lower tank and recored the rest for that price. I know if you search there are some Rad shops that guys recommend on here. Scott
  13. You have a vibration issue somewhere I would say the balancer is a good start. It could also be idler gear loose or flywheel/clutch. My recipe on those cork gaskets is dress them up good with the Right Stuff which is a urethane based sealer, that makes it alot tougher on oils and fuel compared to silcone. Remember be generous but not excessive, if it is ousing out it is also ousing inside the crankcase.
  14. One thing I do with all the sediment bowls is drill them out on both inlet and outlet. I also make sure there is no screen in tank or extension into tank. I want the water or sediment to settle into the bowl not bottom of the tank. I have seen a few severely rusted tanks from water that was trapped and had no way to escape. I expect if it is a fuel delivery problem as using the procedure proscribed by Gearclash using the choke to recover it, usually 1/4 choke allows that extra signal across the venturi. If already confirmed no vacuum leaks and spark is good, timing set, I found with the Ethanol fuel you can run a bit more timing, I can't verify this will work with everyone. With all that correct, I think your main jet needs a slight reaming for whatever reason especially with Ethanol fuel, I would start .002 at a time until the stumble is gone. Scott
  15. And if the OEM will even give up there precious drawings what will they supply a scanned draftsman drawing. They need a solid model in CAD to program there CNC. Gibtec or any piston manufacturer has the ability to scan a existing design and import it into CAD. Any piston designs I have done I sent them a solid model in either native Solid Works or IGS files. I'm not sure on the point on Hastings...I guess I was trying to suggest if you are going custom pistons you might as well update the ring pack to the 21st century this is far beyond what Hastings can offer.
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