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ComancheStarFarms

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  1. 606 & Matt, I really appreciate your willingness to help & your knowledge is very professional. I’ll follow your recommendations & thoughts. I grew up driving a SMTA & 450 in the 60s & then 656/966 in the 70s. Today my sons & I run cattle using a 966 Turbo & 5088 & the old Super M. It wasn’t until I stumbled across this forum about three years ago that I found out that IH & the TA were so disrespected. This “new” 806 is the first Farmall/IH that I’ve ever seen with a TA problem - and we bought it knowing it had problems. That’s why we’re burdening you so much with our problem. Thank you, Jonathan
  2. Matt (& any others), it took me a couple days to drive the 806 around - starting harvest so a little distracted. We recently bought this tractor and for a low price (for us) because the man selling it said nothing worked but the motor. Got it home and sure enough nothing much worked - no real steering, no brakes, no PTO, no hydraulics (tractor is factory no 3-point) & no TA. Even though the farmer said he recently changed filters & fluids I went ahead & did it myself again. After that steering and brakes seemed to be better. I then over filled hydraulic reservoir by about 3 gallons and everything started working close to normal. The TA - the lever doesn’t feel or look as if it is moving fully front & back so not sure tonight which range it is in. So I’ll grab the book and adjust the linkage in the next few says. But we think it is in Direct Drive. And it pulls forward normally. However if the tractor is on a steep enough hill it will freewheel - meaning it may speed up faster than if it was only pulling itself. I’ve had TAs before - in recent tractors 1206, 966 & 1066 and none of them ever sped up faster than the motor/tranny turned them. So I know something is wrong. Use the tractor on flat ground & I’m ok or don’t drive the tractor until repaired, meaning a new TA? Thanks for spending so much time on this. - Jonathan
  3. Thanks for helping out with this. The tractor drives fine in Direct Drive (lever forward). In TA (lever back) the tractor does not pull itself & if on an incline then it will roll downhill. So a new TA sounds logical, but how soon does it need to be repaired? Will it continue to drive & be ok to operate in Direct Drive? Does the freewheeling in TA indicate anything more serious than it just doesn’t pull itself already does? Thank you again.
  4. The TA is out on our 806. We plan on continuing to use the tractor for bush hogging, raking & baling hay until we have the money & time to tear it in two. It free wheels when the TA lever is in the forward (Direct Drive) position. It can be sporty if going down a hill. Is that “normal” for a tractor with the TA out (when lever is pulled back the tractor comes rolls to a stop). Thanks, Jonathan
  5. Another thanks for all the good ideas! In the short time I’ve known about Red Power Forum I can’t imagine how anyone got by before its creation! - Jonathan
  6. A lot of good help & a variety of ideas by all of you. Right now we’re looking at picking up an IH 2 post ROPS in southern Illinois & once in hand hope to mount the 2 post on the outside of the fenders - - meaning a nice cut job on the top of each fender alongside the inside of the fender between the braces. But your ideas are still coming in so I’m not in a rush. Thanks - Jonathan
  7. Thank you. That might be part of the answer to putting a 2-post on. And K&M steps on just about anything is an improvement. - Jonathan
  8. Front climbing over the battery & dust shield was easy for me when I was a youngster but now I get tripped up almost every time! So a two post ROPS & canopy might not work & maybe that’s why I’ve never seen one on a Wheatland. But if it’s been done well then almost certainly a Red Power member has done so. Thanks again for the ideas - please keep them coming. - Jonathan
  9. Yes a front left step was common & may have been standard equipment. But unless it had a cab most of us climbed on from the back side - particularly if we had any seniority - LOL. A lot like an H or M or 400 - - I’ve gotten on board from the front but only very occasionally. Climbing up from behind by stepping on the drawbar always seemed easier. Thanks for the ideas!
  10. Wheatland fenders mount similarly as Farmall flat tops but with a front mount entrance on Farmalls the ROPS doesn’t get in the way of driver comfort. That likely is a hindrance for rear mount which Wheatlands & Standards usually are. I agree that the Iron Bull ROPS & canopies look first class. Thanks, Jonathan
  11. Anyone have any experience with a quality two post ROPS canopy on a Wheatland or Standard tractor? I would like one that looks factory though I doubt any were. Mostly for sun protection but also in the odd chance we turned the tractor over. It would be excellent if the canopy looked good enough that old-timers would comment “I didn’t know IH made them for Wheatlands” or “Sure wish I had one back in the day.” Thoughts , ideas, suggestions or criticisms? - Jonathan
  12. Looks like the voting is about 90% to forget the idea of swapping truck motor into the tractor. I appreciate everyone being so helpful - too bad the rest of the US didn’t grow up as farmers! Several of you have gotten me thinking harder about my truck DT466 - - and 400 series IH motors in general. When does the cavitation actively occur? Is it when the motor is running or is it eating away just sitting there in the shed. And does fresh anti-freeze replacement every year or two years prevent the cavitation? Thank you again to all! - Jonathan
  13. Thanks for all the great responses. I thought about giving the truck away to a young farmer & may still do so with or without the motor. But a neighbor farmer parted out a 1983 IH truck & claims it sold for 3Xs the price he paid for it three years prior - and didn’t do any of the disassembly work. So it may make more sense money wise to transplant the motor & part out the remainder of the truck. From all the good responses it seems as if Matt Kirsch has a solid handle on how & what needs to be done. Thanks to all - a very helpful thread with lots of good pros & cons! - Jonathan
  14. I have a low mileage grain truck that we just haven’t used much the last dozen years or so. And we have a “daily driver” 5088 that needs an engine rebuild. How logical is it to move the motor from the truck to the tractor. I’ve not ever replaced an engine myself but do have a decent shop & a winter ahead of me. Would a 1984 truck motor even be a close fit for a 1983 tractor? Thanks for any insight, thoughts or suggestions. - Jonathan
  15. Thank you for the Precision contact. I ordered a water temp gauge today. On the tach - obviously I don’t need one. Only once have I seen a tach on a letter series & in the 40 years I’ve driven this SM I got by fairly well w/o a tach. Just thought it might come in handy - I cross check the tach on all my other tractors, trucks, aircraft, etc. Cheers, Jonathan
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