John Rowehl

So it sounds like the Pioneer coupling as you described was standard equipment before the 66 series. Yes, it looks like there was a check valve originally on the right side that probably had plugs in it since there was no second remote. The more I think about it, the one on the right side was added before the Pioneer one on the left was changed to the IH outlet. Makes sense so some of the equipment that might be hooked up to the Oliver’s could keep the Pioneer couplings on.

So is the black rubber one the “contact cup” shown in the parts book as #42? And the spring goes through it and into the bottom of the gold cap?

Here’s the remote hydraulic outlets setup I have on my 826. The tractor originally came with just one remote, the one on the left with the check valve, but it had the Pioneer type coupling. Later on that was changed to the IH coupling. I don’t know when the other remote (also IH type) was added but as you can see there was no check valve put on with it. If correctly understand the reason for having a check valve, it seems that every remote should have one. Under what uses is a check valve not needed or not recommended? (Hopefully this falls under the “there are no stupid questions” category.)

The old steering wheel I replaced had these two “ caps” on over the top of the nut. They were glued on with something like a semi- hardening permatex. Since the parts book only shows one cap, I’m guessing the orange one, that looks like a cap you’d put on the end of a hydraulic hose, was put on by my father to keep the black rubber cap protected. All the other steering wheel cap parts above this were no longer on it when I got it. So is it correct that if I get all the other parts to the cap, there would be no reason to put the orange one back on?

Took a look at the bracket for the tilt adjustment for the steering wheel. The part needed restore the tilt function to the steering wheel is NLA. Guessing that’s what my father ran into which might account for the bolt being put in, locking it in the center position slot. Good enough for me.

Not completely gone yet.

Went to take off the old steering wheel. None of the pullers I had fit so I bought a steering wheel puller. Seems like nothing about the steering wheel on this tractor follows convention. Turns out the yoke was just too wide to be able to line up with the threaded holes in the steering wheel. Had to get creative and made a yoke out of that piece of steel that had been used as a drawbar sway block. Put the right size nut underneath it and pulled it off.

This Flitz product is what I used. It had been recommended by another member on this forum. What rubbing compound product(s) would be recommended?

Here’s how the top of the hood looks; before and after. I’m afraid it’s a little too far gone for me to be happy with just the polishing compound.

First, a thank you for all the nice compliments on the tractor’s condition. I tried some polishing compound on the top part of the front side panel. It shined up very nicely. Next is to try it on top of the hood. That is weathered the most and not reflected in the picture I posted.

Nice setup.

Nice of your cousin to send them. I wish I had some photos of our 403 in action from yesteryear.

Thank you all for chiming in and helping. I’m sure I’ll be calling out for help like this many times before this is over.😊 I knew the engine parts book was separate but I couldn’t find it in the online catalog. I should get myself a hard copy.

Next issue to solve is fuel weeping out of the braided hose on this fuel line. I seem to recall that somewhere on this forum said the part is NLA. I cannot even find a parts list for this anywhere. Would appreciate any advice pointing me in the right direction.