Gearclash

Some information. https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/124156-classic-magnums-with-2-hydraulic-filters/

Read what Russ in Idaho wrote. Eye opening. I trust he is a credible source of information. https://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=950125&mid=8498384#M8498384

Well J-Mech, I have spent lots of quality time running a 686 and it has hydraulic pump suction line problems and very very rarely gets stuck in two gears. I was under the impression that the suction line arrangement on those tractors was problem prone. The quick solution was to overfill the trans by approximately an inch on the trans dip stick.

I hear you. Went through a time like that as well. Good luck on your project. I used to spend some time messing with those engines, so if you have questions, ask. A lot of stuff is interchangeable on those engines. If you can get your hands on a 5 hp flat head (model # starts with 13, has a 13 cast between the fins of the head) they are a better engine to work with from the get go and there is a lot of aftermarket support for them (or used to be anyway) for the go kart world. Same goes for the Briggs Intek 206. I have an Intek Pro 206 that had a couple bad experiences with ring dusting and the second time around I bored it .020 over and dropped a Wiseco piston and ring package in it.

I see. I zoomed the pictures in and yes, that seat looks kinda sick. The face is uneven and there is quite a bit of pitting in places. I guess lap it as best you can and run it. Back in the day it was possible to pull the old seat and put a new one in, but even if you could find a seat I don’t think it would be worth it. Those older engines are decent enough, but quite frankly I like the newer stuff better. Briggs offered the Vangaurd line which I think was their first OHV engine, and I think Mitsubishi was involved with that line. They were good but pricey. Then when Briggs dropped the flat heads altogether they offered the Intek line and while they are a comparatively cheap engine they are much nicer to work on than the old flatheads.

It is not unheard of to have a valve seat come loose on those . . . Watch the faces of the valve and the seat as you lap them. They should turn dull grey all way around uniformly . . . if not, one is warped. Don’t get too hung up on the valve guides being a little bit loose. It’s not ideal of course, but as long as everything else in is shape the engine will run fine.

Looks like that thing on the front is more for backfilling than anything else. Definitely just the thing for S S S.

This is what I made. Ball on top is for goose neck trailers. Be very careful when using this stuff. Things can go wrong. Not cool if something jumps off the hitch and rolls away down hill or worse tries to join you in the cab.

That's interesting. I thought the MX Magnums had a park brake that came on if the engine died?

Well that's a letdown. I usually figure I-6 engines are pretty long lived compared to V-8s in applications like this but that must not always be the case. I know some people did get real fed up with the V-8 in the 900s when they were newer. One guy ripped his Benz V-8 out and stuffed a C18 Cat back in. My brother has been getting along good with the V-8 in his 880.

I have no problem cutting holes in pallet forks with a good quality hole saw. Dewalt or Milwaukee. High speed steel will cut them just fine.

What engine does your 870 have in it?

As Kevin says, grind the valve stem if they are too tight. Do your valve work before checking the final clearance, everything you do that involves material removal will decrease clearance. The clearances you posted don’t sound like they would cause starting problems. It is possible the face of the valve is damaged and leaking. Not a common thing I saw though.

Copy and paste from Wiki about Easy Spin. Easy-Spin Starting – This compression release, implemented as an extra hump on the intake lobe of the camshaft, was introduced in 1961 to reduce the effort required to start an engine.[15] In 1982, a new U.S. federal safety regulation required lawnmower blades to stop spinning within three seconds of the operator letting go of the handle. The least costly, most common way of complying with the new regulation was to put a flywheel brake on the mower engine, to stop the engine (and therefore the blade) immediately when the handle was released. Briggs & Stratton engineers found engines with the Easy-Spin camshaft were unacceptably difficult to restart after being braked to a quick stop. The Easy-Spin lobe hump was moved to the exhaust valve, but this reduced engine performance. The intake-side Easy-Spin remained in use on Briggs & Stratton's engines larger than those used on mowers subject to the brake requirement, but was discontinued in 1997 due to tightening emission regulations.[16] With some eyeballing it is possible to see the easy spin “hump” on the camshaft, although in reality it is more of an extension of the trailing side of the lobe that is slightly bigger than the base circle. It is possible to grind this off, but in your case I don’t think this is necessary. Just make sure the intake valve clearance is right on the money.

Oil ring looks good. Compression rings look like they have seen a little dusting from the top side. Air filter maybe wasn’t oiled properly once upon a time. Cylinder could look a little better but all in all I don’t see anything that screams serious loss of compression. Check out that intake valve clearance. I have positively seen lack of clearance cause a no start on one of those engines. The engine could be started with another engine and would run fine for however long you wanted but absolutely could not be started by hand.