Gearclash

If you want to try to get the twine system working right, check out this thread in haytalk.com. You will need to become a member there to view the files attached to the thread. mike10 knows his stuff. If his tips and tricks thread doesn’t help you out, then ask in the Machinery topic. https://www.haytalk.com/forums/topic/53849-my-nh-repair-procedures-tips-and-tricks/

This is why I’m not a real big fan of using twine, beside the extra time it takes during baling. Seems twine always turns into a bigger mess over time, especially if the bales are handled multiple time.

Hmm. I don’t know that Deere had a corner on that. I know from experience that a NH BR has no trouble with rotary wheat straw. The first time I baled it took a bit of extra attention as the weather had delayed harvest until the straw was rather brittle and the JD rotary that threshed it chewed the straw up till it looked like it had been through a tub grinder.

There were quite a few 567s around here in their day . . . and they faded away surprisingly fast. I think within 2-3 years of the 568 coming out the 567s were pretty much gone. I don’t think the 567s held up all so well in a predominately cornstalk diet. I always wondered why one of the guys I knew that ran Deeres said they carried bulk rolls of chain and a breaker in the tractor with them until a few years ago when I found out that the biggest drive chains on the 567 was # 60. That’s not heavy enough for extra load that cornstalks generate. NH had # 80 for a long time already. I looked

Sorry, I was thinking belt baler. I would find a decent BR series. Those can be had in 540 or 1000.

@TP from Central PA I am not aware of a cure for the 6 series stuffer problems. I do get the feeling that beyond the stuffer, the 466 was a better baler than the 566. If you want to bale corn stalks I would get a NH. They may not be the fastest but set up right they will run steadily and make the nicest bales of any color out there.

The stuffer on a wide pickup 566 was very unreliable. Apparently the rest of the machine wasn’t all that great either. They came and went rather quickly around here.

That would make me think it is not the shut off solenoid. Sounds like the fuel is draining back to the tank.

New Holland BR780A.

Am I the only person that thinks Dr. Seuss books are kinda weird??

So what’s going on when it does start. Does it only start after extended cranking and gradually begin to fire and gain power; or does it refuse to do anything and then suddenly next time you try to crank it it pops off readily?

Yea, get the tube ID increased.

In the grand scheme of that weldment assembly, preheating would have been at best like a little band aid on a broken leg. Even if the weldment had been normalized, it would have been vulnerable to breaking. It was a poor arrangement from the start. It would have been a lot better for everybody had the sleeve been longer and the pin bolted in.

Hey, Mike Ellis, is that you??

I prefer the sleeve and bolt if possible. Always bothers me to have a weld right at the fulcrum point on a heavy cross section item like an axle spindle. The residual stress of welding compounds the likelihood of the spindle breaking at the weld. Pictures below are not a spindle but gets loaded like a spindle. One of the two main 3 inch pins on a Rowse Ultimate rake that broke off right at the weld, even though the weld was about 1-1/2” below the theoretical fulcrum point. It was a big enough problem that Rowse updated that design twice. Why they didn’t go to a bolted pin instead of