Gearclash

Ford musta hired some of Nissan’s moron engineers. We have a 2006 Nissan Armada (full size SUV with 5.6 V-8). Remove 4 bolts to take a tin pan off to remove the oil filter. Any work on exhaust manifolds (no wait that’s a CATAFOLD in Nissan speak) will require that the appropriate front wheel and fender liner be removed. And then there is still a negative amount of room to work. Do the spark plugs the same way. And then there is the cute little drip trough for the oil filter . . . I can’t decide . . . was somebody this stupid or was this sadism?

I personally won’t run tires on a non preferred rim size. I also wouldn’t switch from a 20.8 to an 18.4 for ride quality reasons, but I don’t need the narrower track either.

I have though some years ago already that using batteries to power chore equipment would be viable and worthwhile option. I see no problem with a battery powered feed pusher. Would be a lot cheaper to run long term. I would like to electrify a skid steer to fill my feeder wagon. No reason that batteries couldn’t do the job, it only runs about half an hour at a time anyway. Keep a dino juice machine around for more extensive work. Also I think it would work to run a TMR tractor as electric as well. Use the batteries for transit and unloading, and since most times TMR mixers get filled in the same place everyday I would use shore power to run the pto while filling. I think there is a European company making a small battery powered wheel loader. I think it is Weideman, but not 100% sure.

Oh, and if you’re wondering what kind of fuel economy a snowmobile engine gets when it’s on wheels, let’s just say it is it’s own little economy. My kart has 2.25 gallon fuel tank on it. If I wanted to make a longer road run with it I had to consider ahead of time how many miles that would be. Total trip could not exceed 16 miles. I would usually get back on the yard with a quart or two of fuel left.

As far as the engine itself, with the proper jetting and the proper cooling system they work just fine. Liquid cooled engines are the way to go as the radiator can be sized according to the cooling demands. I have a go-kart lurking in the shed collecting dust that has a Yamaha V-Max 600 snowmobile engine on it. It could run around on gravel roads no problem at all in the summer. I used a radiator from a compact car to cool it, and that was plenty. The only thing was, for the sake of simplicity and lightness, there was no fan for the cooler, it just had panels to direct air into it. Low speed bombing around like at the Little Sahara in OK it would run hot. Too much power being used for the air flow. That engine was out of a Mountain Max sled so it had electronic controls on the carbs to trim for altitude, temp and oxygenated fuel. Was a pretty reliable engine. I will say though didn’t have any more power than the Yamaha SRX 440 it replaced . . .

Are you raking two windrows on one? If you have a back-and-forth cutting pattern, raking two windrows together tends to result in a windrow that is denser on one side than the other, because the windrow responds to the rake differently on one side than the other. Most times this isn’t an issue, just have to not try to visually center the tractor/baler on the windrow. Let the directional arrows tell you how to drive. Also possible that there is a calibration error in the system that drives the directional arrows, but I wouldn’t venture a guess what or how as I am not familiar with Hesston big squares.

The other door . . . the door latches work when they want to. Took the steps off on that side so I could work on the malfunctioning MCV. Was going to get the clutch and dump valve synched before putting the steps back on. Neither got done . . . Oh well.

I will give you credit that it is fairly complete and that works, most of the time. Beyond that, pictures sure are deceptive. That thing’s been rednecked and hillbillyed in about every way. And in addition to a bath it could use an engine rebuild, an injector pump rebuild, new clutch, trans work, brake work, 3 point work and lots of leaks fixed. I own it because I needed something this size, and it was IH and cheap.

Aw c’mon. Not every body runs IHs that are original or have had a 100 point restoration.

So were all the 5000 series Maxxums built in Neuss? Or were some built in Doncaster as well? I’m curious because with the MX Maxxum (which was an evolution of the 5000) Rest Of World sales production was in Doncaster while North American sales production was in Racine WI. Interesting how multinational the Maxxum was. Built in Germany, or England, or the US, with transmission housings that had a “Made in France” tag on them and rims coming from Denmark . . .

I’m thinking Euro only. I would think in CAN it would have been a 5250.

Went in to a salvage place once for a part on a number series IH, really common engine part. Younger guy behind the counter guddled around on his computer for a while, and began to mutter “I don’t see it any where”. After this went on for a while the manager happened to come by and asked what was going on. “Can’t find such and such part in the computer”. Manager strode behind the counter, reached past the parts guy, grabbed a parts book, clumped it on the counter, flipped through it for less than a minute, then stabbed his finger in it and said “Here!!” and walked off.

Unless I’m badly mistaken, a good head rebuilder can build up missing iron as well as weld cracks. I think the guy I go to in Rock Valley IA can fix pretty much any situation, the question is if its worth it. $$$$

Dean in Sioux Center NAPA before James Bought it and ran him off. Dean took his trickle charger and alternator tester with him and service went down hill abruptly for me after that.

The longest lasting ATV batteries I ever got were NAPA batteries. I don’t think it was so much the NAPA battery as it was the crotchety character that sold them and insisted that he fill the electrolyte himself and put the newly filled battery on a trickle charger for the better part of day before the battery was put in service.