Gearclash

My experience. The Pertronix Ignitor I will work fine with either a standard 12v coil or Pertronix Flame Thrower, and they will work fine with either metal or carbon plug wires. The Ignitor II might be different.

My 856 hasn’t been getting harder to start lately. As long as the battery and alternator are good anyway. It has never been an impressive cold starter but it’s not bad either. It does have more blowby than I would like but it doesn’t seem to be getting a lot worse. I did find out when I replaced the head gasket that the #6 cylinder had evidence of rust pitting on the cylinder walls. In an earlier life it must have gotten moisture in that cylinder and sat that way for a while . . . I can’t imagine that helps the compression on that hole but it doesn’t seem to bother it either.

Not in a shop but there is a cute little Farmall involved. Replacing a row of stall dividers.

12 x 48 isn’t going to work at all for a shop space if you plan to work on anything of size like tractors. I’ve done a lot of work in a shop that has a work area of roughly 25 x 25. I would try to make your work area 24 x 48. Put an overhead door on each end of that. Don’t be afraid to spend money on insulation including under the floor whether you heat the floor or not. Get the floor troweled as smooth as possible. A rough floor in a shop is a great pain, can’t keep it clean.

Profanity laced but funny and rather pertinent to the topic here.

Ballon fronts sure ride nice. Next best thing to an MFD with soft front tires. Got sick of the 11.00-16 bone shakers on the front of my MX135 and put on a set of odd ball 16.5L-16.1s that I picked up cheap. What a difference in ride quality! Now those 14.9R-46 rears need to go . . .

Really? Not something I would like. We didn’t dust an engine once because the safety element was there when the main element failed from a defect. In any case my 856 does have the safety element.

I have read that also. And I have also wondered about adding ZDDP to 15W-40.

Thanks for the advice! It seems I can’t see the forest for the trees. I think 3588prcred might have put his finger on the problem. Pulled the air filter tonight and it was really loaded. Even worse, I noticed there was no date written on it which means I have never put a new air filter in as long as I’ve owned it. Oops. Mea culpa. I had a new filter on hand so I put that in. I will see if that changes things and if not then on to the other ideas.

Seems like my 856 (D407) is burning increasing amounts of oil. It shows about 6700 hours, I bought it showing about 5700 hours. Right or wrong it has always had 15W-40 in it as long as I’ve owned it. It seldom works very hard as it is on a TMR wagon that doesn’t take much PTO power usually. Any thoughts? Overhaul time? Needs to work harder? I had the head off for a head gasket failure a couple years ago and the cylinders looked pretty good yet as in no big ring wear ridges.

Just remembered that I forgot about . . .

I’m not sure term limits will really make much difference. I think the real problem is the voters. Either they don’t care what the politicians do or (worse) they approve of what the politicians are doing. I do agree that money clouds the political process.

@bitty I have thought about your Euro 3 point to NA conversions. I have a Euro tractor and several NA tractors so it is easy to compare. If I were you I think I would try to replace the complete lower arm. I would sure think salvage yards would have them. The Euro and NA arm are quite a bit different and of course the Euro arm has no extension which has to be a pain with NA eye ends.

What caliber is that last little heater? I’m kinda sorta half-heartedly looking for something that I could use for concealed carry. I like the .380 round but everything chambered for it is so crazy small framed that I risk shooting the tip off my own finger.

Back in the dark ages we had to haul manure every week or two for the dairy during the winter. 10 years ago we put in a pit that can handle winter storage. I don’t miss that headache one tiny bit.