
td9inidaho
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Everything posted by td9inidaho
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Nicely done, I see they got rid of that monster shifter for 4 wheel drive. I wonder what year it is, there's a latch for the rear gate, as opposed to the chain system on mine .Looks great Mark
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My understanding the r series used the same cabs as the L series, if other trucks used the same cabs, should be someone making aftermarket sheet metal for them Mark
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Wow, I have had first hand experience with a 465, had one for ever, mean power band they have. Grab the throttle, pucker your cheeks as it will buck you off if you're not hanging on π. Good for you to still have one Mark
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My understanding early Chevy's used balancer bolts smaller than should be and alot of them would strip the cranks threads, some resort to drilling and tapping to next size bigger. (seems I have one of those in a boat right now, not sure if I want to pull the motor to drill and tap or?). But, you do what you need to, and not every situation is the same for all Mark
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Some computer systems are setup that once a code is set, it takes 5 or so key starts, and if it doesn't see the code, it will turn the light off. Not sure on Subarus, but yes, I agree with others, clear the code and go from there Mark
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1997 Ford F350 super duty issues
td9inidaho replied to 2ATowingandRecoveryLlc's topic in General Chat
At this point, it's not your problem, it's the tow company. Make them give you a rental/replacement, and make them pay to have it fixed. Plain and simple. Mark -
I'm thinking you have crud from the tanks, sounds like it is the float sticking, running rich, and backfiring. My old Ford does the same thing. It sits more than it runs, so always some carb issue with it Just my 2 cents Mark
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I'm thinking what he's talking about regarding leakage is not compression/ring leakage , but water leakage between the block and sleeves. If these o rings leak, you will end up with water in your oil. If so, you will be back to pulling this motor back down, and pulling sleeves, either plan on pulling them now and replacing the o rings, or bolt plates across to hold them in place and try not disturbing those o rings , also I'm liking your block heating idea. If you can easy enough get the pan off, after bolting the sleeves in place, I have used a jack and piece of wood, find a crank journal you can put pressure on that pushes it upwards, put pressure on it, plenty of pressure to your discretion, and let it sit that way. It will eventually break loose. Be careful, make sure those sleeves stay put. I did this very thing on a bd 264, worked like a charm Good luck, can't wait to hear how this turns out Mark
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The one I got working I used a cordless drill to spin it, to see if the points were working properly Mark
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I have a 20, and it has been in the family for 70 plus years, seen a lot of work, still fires, but def needs a rebuild, they had the continental 4. Points are the only thing I dislike about it, and the fact no live pto, and that the 1st gear is way too fast to really do work. Put a.tiller on the back, and it's dragging it along, a under drive Sherman be nice. Also had to change the PTO shaft as they had the small one from factory. I also have a 600, it has the Sherman forward/reverse, first is still high for the tiller. The "red tiger" as ford calls them fires way fast, lugs really well, but not sure if the ferg has more power. Just my 2 cents I was under the impression a lot of the aluminum farts were due to steel shortage for the war period. Steering box is def aluminum on this one hood is steel. Don't quote me on the aluminum theory π Mark
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My experience with mags is very limited, like to oneπ, the mag I had to work on was for a caterpillar pony motor, not sure if same components are used, but I wasn't getting spark from the mag, no kill wire was hooked up, so that ruled that out, it came down to the points in the mag itself were dirty, cleaned them, life was good . Maybe this might help you in this case Mark
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Yes, totally agree with that statement, I started out with one, they like to flock together, I'm up to 5 now, and that's not counting the dozers, excavator, swather(s), trucks, and plenty more random pieces of equipment π Mark
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Looking for a wiring diagram for 1958 TD9-91 series
td9inidaho replied to td9-91's topic in Technical IH Talk
What for? Are you having issues, or just looking for the diagrams for ? -
Here's the best I can get for you , it's a good starting point for you , can't find any differences mentioned between the 335 and 350. I wonder if the 335 had a deeper oil pan ?
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I will be out that way today, I will pull the stick and see what the numbers are on it, mine is a 350 motor. Mine also has a blade on the front, winch on the back, and tons of pig iron on it,as some refer to it as π Mark
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Yes we all have, and yes, none of us will ever let that happen again, also, once you have the filters purged of air, there should be a bleeder on the pump itself I believe, bleed it also, you might get lucky then to crank it and see, but most likely you will be bleeding the injectors too. This is one reason I have installed electric pumps on all my tractors, dozers π€ππ Mark
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Like others have said. Barley straw, or even the extract. I was in the same boat as you, bought 2 bottles of the extract from a pet store, 16 ounces each, (that's all they had). After a week the algae was floating, and dieing. I couldn't believe it Mark
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Acquired a couple of things that I really don't want.
td9inidaho replied to lotsaIHCs's topic in General Chat
Sorry to hear of your families bad news, like most of us here, if anything can be done, we would try. Take advantage of every minute you can with him and his family. Be thankful for the opportunity to have the knowing, and get to make it the best it can be. It's not often people get the chance to spend more time, knowing time will be cut short. I'm sure we all have had family members pass, no warning or signs, and wished we could have spent more time with them, "if only we knew". Prayers from our family to yours Mark -
I'm just gonna leave this right here...
td9inidaho replied to Farming Enthusiast's topic in General Chat
Ohhh, but we all love it when we are rolling coal , especially at the tractor pulls, come on now people, it's all in a day's work. Not all of us live in Cali ππ Mark -
In the Midwest, that could be 10 miles away, here, that's 100 yards maybe π Mark
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Nope, that's why you need to register with the "authorities" π
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So if I am hearing this right, when hot, and you depress the clutch it automatically goes to 12th gear? If so, I say the shift module, which I'm going to assume is electronic and I have no experience with, is getting hot and wigging out, sending the wrong signal/voltage to the tranny and that's the fear you get . Just my 2 cents Mark