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    East Central USA
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    Farm Tractors & Equipment 1960-1984

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    766 mcv pump

    You may have missed installing an o-ring between speed and range housing......its about 3" up on right side. Seals the tubes cast into housings.

    CaseIH MX100, MX110 and MX120 School Me On Them

    True statement there. The MX series Maxxum tractors are my all time favorite, great mix of just enough electronics to make them really operator friendly and yet simple straight forward design. Really cleaned up from the 5200 series, good hydraulics (for the market tractor was intended for) great engine. Cab is very roomy and nice placement of controls. Pto has been a source of trouble for some and for others, thousands of hours without a problem. JJA serial prefix built state side and JJE serial prefix built overseas.

    856 MCV problem

    I have a dozen or so bolts that I have cut the threads of off, then using a snap gauge measure inside dia of spool. turn end of bolt down about .003 smaller than bore. Clean bore of spool with Brakleen apply Loc-Tite to bolt and let it set long enough Loc-Tite does it's thing. By using the bolt you know have a hex you can turn and pull with. Leave bolt in spool until you are satisfied with your "fit" after honing spool and bore, then a little bit of heat melts Loc-Tite and you're ready to assemble. I use Clover White lapping compound 1500 grit IIRC to hone.

    Maxim 140 transmission

    2 completely different transmission designs...........they are not even in the same zip code as the 51-5200 & MX series Maxxums. Think FNH PowerStar series for the current transmission design that is used today.

    5250 range troubles

    Does it drive with clutch held mid-way? There are 3 switches down on right hand side of range transmission, lower one is 1st & 2nd, upper one in line with lower one is 3rd & 4th. The one forward of the upper one is 4th range reverse lockout. If switches test good you may need to test the circuit, have seen the harness zip tied to hydraulic tube. The vibration of tube will eat the wiring harness for lunch. RANGE SWITCH (1987326C1) OR CIRCUIT FAILURE IN RANGE TERMINALS C&D SHOULD HAVE CONTINUITY A&B SHOULD BE OPEN IN NEUTRAL TERMINALS A&B SHOULD HAVE CONTINUITY C&D SHOULD BE OPEN

    5250 range troubles

    Does tractor have "N" in the shuttle? If so under the seat right on top of range transmission is the shuttle valve, off to the left side of valve is a diagnostic quick coupler get a gauge on coupler. You should be around 290 - 300 psi. if not you have a problem in your shuttle valve, possible problems are cable adjustment, feathering spring, modulation spool or the quick start spool. If tractor is an early serial with NO "N" in the shuttle there is no diagnostic coupler on valve body. Possible causes on early serial numbers include clutch cable adjustment, modulation solenoid not energized, feathering valve (different from late serial) and temperature compensating spool. The hours and serial number are very important when working on this series tractors, or any tractor for that matter.

    Ford LRG425I engine

    Rebuilt one on them little guys a number of years ago.......still have the service manual if ya need one. Used Northern Power for a parts source. IIRC firing order is wacky

    7120 magnum hard starting

    Gauges are your friend.........get a fuel pressure gauge in that thing, between the filters and inj pump. You should have no less than 20 psi and more like 25 running, when you shut it off watch the gauge, does pressure drop like a rock or slowly drop to "0"? What is your fuel tank level, and does it do it all the time or when fuel level is lower? Was the Reman engine complete or a long block? Danny made a good point on the solenoid, original solenoid was NOT directly connected to shut-off arm, spring pressure brought it to run position when solenoid is energized (pulled out of the way) IIRC there was a kit to change them over to a direct connected solenoid.

    1959 IH 460 Utility SCREAMING Noise, Need Help!

    Good point...........anytime you see spline wear that is straight that is a good indication of good alignment. Spline wear in an arc indicates flywheel isn't running true.

    McCormick with xtrashift problem

    Calibrate the transmission and see what happens...........wish I had the procedure for you.

    1998 Maxxum 120 hydraulic and electrical issues

    It is time to get some gauges in the system, (a) charge pressure (b) regulated pressure (c) main pump pressure (d) signal line pressure. With these gauges you should be able to get a good "picture" of what is going on. You really need service manual to iron this out. Troubleshooting via forum or over phone can be difficult. On the #2 remote, most times the one not working correctly is the good one and problem lies within one of the others, possible bad signal check. As TD stated make sure hitch is lowered and not attempting to over raise. You can check this by raising hitch and then manually see if you can raise them a little more by hand. Also make sure your draft control is set to 6 or higher.

    1998 Maxxum 120 hydraulic and electrical issues

    I would suggest getting a volt meter and checking to see if you have 12v at horn when button is pushed. Also check your fuses, relays for the horn and lights. (refer to your ops manual) for locations of fuses and relays. Do you have 12v at the connector for lights? If so maybe you just need new bulbs. Did both lights quit working at same time? Most time electrical problems are devices in circuit and not the wiring. Now on to the hydraulics "scream" Does "often" mean every time you demand a function? What is the condition of hydraulic oil and filter change interval. Hour many hours on tractor? Do all functions work correctly? Is tractor wearing a loader? Sounds like you need to get some gauges in circuit to see what is going on.

    Gas prices

    Don't really know what prices are around here and I just fueled up ole 92 Dodge machine over lunch. I am not planning on walking and second I don't think fuel prices are high enough. People running mindlessly to & fro taking no thought for what their doing, if prices where higher maybe it would get their attention. I have 2 vehicles 92 & 05 Dodges normally fuel up one each month, don't get out much just walk to shop and work 10 hours walk back to house (maybe 100 yards) from shop.
  14. Not to steal this thread but very related so here goes, Just finished clutch & TA job in 856 week before Christmas when completed and pressures all set on shop floor I was happy with the numbers but didn't warm it up good and recheck as it was raining AGAIN.... I hate testing out in rain so parked it until yesterday morning, warmed it up to operating temperature and was running it around all the sudden lost my lube pressure and DD & TA clutch pressure gauge started jumping around. Brought it back in shop an attempted to isolate what was going on. Knew oil passages in speed housing where in good condition as I always wash housings after complete tear down. Also knew filter was good as it was replaced during job, and customer had put a pump it in recently. Studied manual trying to lay my hand on where leak(s) where with no luck. Drained oil and pulled MCV, cleaned inspected it again looking for stuck valve (nothing found) everything in good shape. Opened up pump to find it was scored pretty bad in pressure plates. Ok thinking I had found problem put it together with new pump (huge improvement) but higher the rpm's the more unstable pressure became. Stop scratch head (repeatedly) has to be a supply problem. Drain oil and pull MCV again, using shop air back pressure suction tube back to filter housing (builds to much back pressure) before I hear a metallic noise then air bubbles in filter housing. Pull filter and back plate in filter housing, low and behold last guy that done a park job should have accounted for all the pieces as the park pivot dowel was certainly stuck in suction tube in range housing from filter to split joint. Brought everything back to a running condition and BINGO everything works properly and pressures are perfect. Wow glad it's done now.

    Has anyone ever built their own parts washer?

    TP.......We tried them washers, left a film of some type on parts. Only nice thing about them was rolling them right to your work station, and washing your parts without hauling them across shop and back. Yes had to keep them plugged in to keep the little bugs alive.