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CIHTECH

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About CIHTECH

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday October 20

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East Central USA
  • Interests
    Farm Tractors & Equipment 1960-1984

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  1. The German engines have a habit of "wet stacking" unburnt diesel mixing with exhaust soot making it look like oil. Run that thing like a rented mule for a couple hours and it will clear up. putt around doing light work an it will be back. To help this run a hotter thermostat to keep cylinder temperatures higher along with making sure your injectors are good maybe even set open pressure a couple % over spec for better fuel air mixture.
  2. Ag Parts pumps have been very good for me. Hy-Capacity is another option.
  3. CIHTECH

    MX240

    First off I apologize for not keeping up on this project. Tractor is back in the field, everything turned out great. When I got it together and ready to go it would not drive in forward or reverse, took me about 5 minutes to realize I had creep lead (tractor doesn't have creep) hooked to park solenoid and park lead wasn't connected. Swapped them around and its all good. Since the MX240 job we just got done with a trans job in a 7210 Magnum and in the middle of a engine job in a MX230, with another 7250 setting outside waiting on a trans job.
  4. Local farmer walked into local Deere dealer and priced a new tractor. He thought they were a touch high so he wrote them a check and told them to (a) bring the tractor or (b) call him and let him know they tore his check up and put it in trash. Several days later they brought him his new tractor. I have no idea what the numbers were, just have heard the story a hundred times.
  5. Make sure linkage on left side of pto housing is following lever command, you could confirm this with a pressure gauge. I would agree that is sounds like clutch linings or a burnt clutch, but could be a s simple as brake plate snap ring came off. If it turns out being something inside I would suggest a good check of the 540 to 1000 rpm shifting mechanism while pto unit is off tractor.
  6. Late to the game here ...........but more shop notes, TO CHECK LUBE / TRANSFER PUMP IN REAR HOUSING COMPLETE THE FOLLOWING STEPS; #1 FILL HYDRAULIC OIL TO 1 INCH OVER FULL MARK (MAKE SURE TRACTOR IS SETTING LEVEL) #2 START AND RUN AT 1600 RPM’S FOR 3-5 MINUTES #3 OIL LEVEL SHOULD DROP ON DIPSTICK IF NOT REMOVE BREATHER (LOCATED UNDER SEAT) AND RETEST IF OIL LEVEL DROPS REPLACE BREATHER IF NOT TRANSFER PUMP IS POSSIBLY BAD. #4 THERE IS NO GOOD WAY OF TESTING PUMP PRESSURE OR FLOW, IF THE ABOVE STEPS INDICATE PUMP FAILURE, PUMP CAN BE ACCESSED THRU DROP BOX OPENING AND MCV OPENING.
  7. Start relay is located top center of engine bay firewall, rectangular shape.
  8. I have never needed to in the past, what voltage are you reading on your battery posts when commanding a start? You may need to separate your batteries to see which one is possibly causing problem. If it is "clicking" the starter that tells us the circuit is complete and we are dealing with a poor connection or low voltage.
  9. Riley tractor parts 833-234-0845, Todd or Gary should be able to help you out.
  10. Kinda hard to say without know what the voltages are. Starting at battery posts (not on the cables) what voltage you have when commanding a start, then move one test point to cable while other is still on post, then swap test points. This will test your cable to battery connections, next you can do the same thing to check voltage at starter. Right off the batteries there is a jumper stud that has been a source of problems, make sure you aren't loosing voltage there.
  11. You state IH 385 which should be a "CR" injection pump but without serial number of tractor here goes........... Fuel supply leaves tank on right side goes forward to fuel filter base on right side of engine, goes across front of engine to fuel filter base on left side (under injection pump) then feeds injection pump. The saddle tank has a balance line between tanks and it will clog with rust / debris and then will not have enough head pressure in tank to push fuel thru supply side to pump. Always works best to change filters an etc....with a full tank as you have higher head pressure and it makes bleeding easier. Make sure you have a good supply after final filter at injection pump. You stated you have good fuel flow to injection pump which should indicate both filters are bled out and if so shouldn't be hard to get it going. Have you tried cracking a couple injectors? There were 3 different injections pumps used on D179 engines, Bosch "BR" lines angled out of head where injections lines attach, over flow valve in the top return banjo bolt. The over flow valve is an orifice type built into banjo bolt (think really small hole) when installed at incorrect location "pump supply" you can hardly get any fuel into injection pump Bosch "CR" lines came straight out of head, over flow valve built into pump and a standard banjo bolt (same as supply) for return connection. Bosch "VE" has throttle linkage on top cover, used after serial 18001
  12. Turn wheels to lock and disconnect opposite steering line start tractor back up and attempt to continue turning wheels, see if any oil comes out of cylinder this will check your piston seal in cylinder. You can then hook hose back up and try it the opposite way to confirm.
  13. Rear left is forward, left front is reverse. Top right modulation, bottom right diff lock.
  14. 3 different serial breaks on right fuse panels, left side is same for all.
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