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  • Birthday October 20

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    East Central USA
  • Interests
    Farm Tractors & Equipment 1960-1984

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  1. If your talking about ref# 4 I would recommend replacing it with a new one and make sure everything is clean and dry. Then install using a bit of hi-temp Loc-Tite. Most times we see the little disc / check valve broken or missing. Happens in "B" series engines too.
  2. Correct, You will have to order based on piston and sleeve number that is in the engine. Confirmed by number etched in top of sleeve and last (4) digits of part number stamped in piston, or use CaseIH partsbook. Just make sure the kit contains those part numbers, rest of the items will be pretty much the same between most "C" series AG & Industrial engines.
  3. CaseIH assumed the warranty responsibility for any of their engines. Yes Cummins built it and once built they were done with it. Same way with the Komatsu engines Cummins built for them. You can simply look your parts up thru CaseIH and knock the "J" off number and replace it with a 3, example J911562 is Cummins # 3911562. You can also take the injection pump number and get a Cummins CPL # and kinda go in thru the back door. The CPL is Critical Parts List that controls the parts that make the HP. Example cam, injectors, pistons an etc...
  4. Pump has to be removed and disassembled to replace that one. Maybe better to send it out for repairs as parts are getting hard to find. Forum has an "in house" pump man. One of the best, goes by injpumped.
  5. I have always said if something works it will become mainstream if not, it falls by the way.
  6. Genuine Cummins or Interstate Mcbee here. Kinda leave it up to customer.
  7. Local JD dealer claims a clapped out 4020 lost a turbo being transported into shop. Came in for problems unrelated to engine.


    Sounds like a electrical connection, check your fuses, relays (right side) and connections to inching (clutch) pedal switches on left side.
  9. See this in fire dept. all the time. We that did have no idea what advantage we have in general.
  10. Those boost numbers don't surprise me and I would even consider it normal. I am with Injpumped on checking the fuel inlet pressure. I like to see no less than 20 psi after filters. 71&7200 series Magnums don't push a lot of boost either, that is until you change out turbo and/or dump some extra fuel to them.
  11. Done many of them years ago, even easier today as parts yards have more 51-5240 tractors than back in early 90's when people were buying. Just buy everything from a 40 and bolt it on, set pump up a bit, should end up around 115-120 hp. Would advise checking / adjusting regulated pressure to spec. might save ya some headaches. If regulated is running a little low and you throw a turbo at it possibly and tie her down you could end up rebuilding power shift, shuttle or pto.
  12. Throttle shaft o-ring leaking, throttle shaft probably bad at those hours. You will need 2 fiber sealing washers (under acorn nuts) throttle shaft & o-rings, and top cover gasket. Years ago seemed like we done at least one a week, Case skid steers, 51-5230 tractors, and many other applications (MF, Ford, JD to name a few) that ran a CAV DPA injection pump. Clean around it really good, remove acorn nuts and while lifting top cover up push throttle shaft down. Make sure you note governor spring locations, before removing throttle shaft. When installing top cover you have to make sure manual shutoff (not used) but still there engages in linkage. Once cover is back on, open bleeders (5/16 wrench) and pump manual pump until you air free fuel. Close bleeders and you should be ready to roll. Follow up to say, only do this repair, if you feel comfortable with this type of repair.
  13. LF3316 filters have a standpipe to prevent draining down. If you read filter specs, lots of filters that screw down on base ahead of hang on the base have standpipes.
  14. Cut wire 44 and use big screw driver to run adjusting screw 43 in. Take it 1/4 turn and see what happens to your pressure. Once your happy with setting, in the driver slot, drill thru outside of compensator housing and install your seal wire again. You will be lucky if it's not froze up, seems like everyone I work on I end up fighting them to get them to turn.
  15. I made ours out of an empty freon cylinder. Brazed a fitting in bottom and apply pressure using air pressure regulator. Had to pop the fuse out of top cylinder and braze a fill port in its place. Fill it up with oil and pressurize it and presto you have a pre-lube can. Clean it out really good before using it.
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