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    East Central USA
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    Farm Tractors & Equipment 1960-1984

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  1. Helped a friend harvest for 30 days in the fall of 16. He runs from Texas to Montana, I just helped in Nebraska, Kansas and Colorado with corn harvest. It sure impressed an ole farm boy from the east like me to see the massive volume of crops taken in. Spoke with an older gentleman at one grain elevator, he told me the day before they received 267 hopper bottom loads (1000ish bushels) per load. He didn't have a count on the smaller straight truck loads. Loaded out 22 rail cars, of which I have no idea how many bushels they would be. We ran (5) machines, 1 grain cart and 7 hopper bottoms.
  2. The injection pump on those is a Bosch VE, mounted on inside of injection pump is a KSB (wax motor) that changes timing based on engine coolant temperature. My quick guess would be that the temperature sensor for this is bad. When its up to temperature and missing, try running a jumper wire from a 12V source to the KSB on side of injection pump. You should have (2) wires to the injection pump, (1) is right above the injection line group, its to the fuel solenoid. The other is the KSB, it should be off to the inside of pump. One other possibility is the case pressure has dropped to low, due to weak transfer pump or even the internal pressure control valve.
  3. I have 4 different versions of GSS service manuals on these engines. Each one has the info regarding installation of front pulley printed just a bit differently. My CEGS310-1 shows it better than any of them. Make sure the dowel pin engages in slot in back side of pulley. In order.. #1 install wedge ring wide side against seal / spacer #2 install 2nd wedge ring wide side out, notch 90 degrees from first (I would think 180 degrees) would be ok / better. #3 install a distance ring #4 install pulley, make sure dowel engages #5 install 3rd wedge ring wide side against distance ring #6 install 4th wedge ring again notch in ring 90 degrees #7 install 2 distance ring, #8 install pressure plate (big heavy washer) and 3 bolts #9 torque bolts in steps, 22, 44 and 46 ft. lbs. Hope this is the correct info for you, stack it up and see if it appears right. As others suggested use a dial indicator to make sure run out is correct.
  4. I would recommend replacing shaft seal while out on bench. Cap all openings except inlet, remove dust seal and snap ring. Apply a bit of air pressure on inlet port, it will "pop" seal up out of bore. Install new seal, making sure you don't "roll" outer lip. Once seal is started in, install retainer and push seal down until snap ring fits back in groove. Install new dust seal and your all set.
  5. Wonder if throttle linkage is adjusted to where it can go past the detent position into the shut off position? Disconnect throttle linkage an operate it by hand. Question that you probably don't have an answer to, but where was throttle setting at while it sit for 15 years? My guess is the control unit is stuck in last position throttle was left in, which most times is the shut of position. Did it throttle up? If not, I would suspect control unit again.
  6. You don't have a choice, you have to remove it. Clean it very good, then stand it up in vise. Remove the bolts and end cap. Lay everything out like it came apart. You should only have (5) parts, the end cap, small thin washer, half dollar sized part, steel retainer and rubber seal. Carefully slide steel retainer and rubber seal up off gerotor assy. Clean again where seal sleeve contacts main body. Set new seal in place, then slide retainer down over seal. Make sure the half dollar sized part that has a slotted hole and another small hole is installed properly. Tiny thin washer goes on end cap first (held by a tiny bit of grease) then the small hole engages on center pin of end cap while slotted hole engages on pin of shaft in gerotor. Torque end cap to 19 ft lbs.
  7. Lucky you!! They should have been standard on every tractor, like they was on the MX series Maxxum's
  8. Gauge in both clutch and brake, pressures should swap from brake to clutch as you engage pto. Without looking it up, I would say regulated is right around 300 psi.
  9. What Bitty said ^^^ Shop note on which lines you need to check pressure on.... THE 3 LINES FEEDING PTO UNIT ARE; TOP CENTER - PTO CLUTCH SMALL LINE TO LEFT - PTO BRAKE LARGE LINE TO LEFT - PTO LUBRICATION
  10. Went up and checked it is going already. 1346336C1 is the cover 1346446C1 was the kit back in the day. Not sure what number a scrap yard would give it but may want to try both. Was also a serial break on them, but shouldn't matter which one you use, just different signal checks in said cover.
  11. Looking up parts for this series of tractors will give a feller a HUGE headache. So many options, you have to have the serial number to attempt narrowing it down, there is a option for every option and the parts book descriptions are lacking. I guess a guy needs to be schooled a bit on what your looking at. To the trained eye an open center gear pump isn't even in the same zip code as a closed center pump. The mechanical injection pump versus electronic is pretty simple. Mechanical draft is levers while electronic draft is a couple little trouble free buttons and switches.
  12. Maybe I should run upstairs and see if there is one on the tractor I knocked in the head and set on shelf.
  13. Find power beyond plate in scrap yard. With longer studs it mounts on top of your remote valves stack.
  14. You can let inching pedal up then, have someone slowly push it down while following it with the feathering spool and springs
  15. Maybe this applies to your problem or maybe not. I know we run into it with farm tractor applications quite often..... Make sure you have the correct banjo bolt in the correct location, if pump is a BR configuration make sure the orrificed banjo bolt is in the return fitting in top center of pump. Not in the supply line at front corner of pump. The delivery valve holders (that injection lines thread unto) on the BR pump exit the head at an angle, while the CR version is straight.
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