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CIHTECH

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About CIHTECH

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday October 20

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East Central USA
  • Interests
    Farm Tractors & Equipment 1960-1984

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  1. Hope nobody wonders why you get an email from Reliance almost daily, with the discount of the day. Seems like I delete one almost every day, 2 veterans from Tom's Agri Diesel are now working for Riley if that is of any value to anyone. Most times if you price it out aftermarket doesn't save a dime. I just done a Ford BSD engine & Cummins 6BT. On the Ford I used Clevite pistons and the rest came from New Holland, everything for the Cummins came from Cummins. Done a JD last summer $300 dollars difference between Deere & aftermarket. Pretty simple choice to make.............that said makes a guy wonder where Deere sources their parts. Around 12 years ago I built a Deere 466 with Reliance kit, tractor was running a manure pump last fall and started so serious blowby. Customer wanted me to check it out, so went to tractor. It was setting in shed "cold" I cranked it over not hearing anything so went ahead and fired it up. Started really good for 30 degrees. I couldn't work it thru shop quick enough so it went to neighbors shop. I kept up with it as I was interested it what failed, the cast iron ring land had came loose and was hammering out piston just about made it to the top where it would have been bad. Put piston in lathe and cut top off, ring land just slipped up off piston. Found a genuine Deere piston same part number in local dealers scrap, cut it down and found Deere piston had anchors on inside diameter of ring land that extended back into piston that the Reliance didn't have. Moral of the story is what are you doing / using today that is going to bite you down the road?
  2. Take a peek at ref # 8 & 9 https://partstore.caseih.com/us/HoobAs/parts-search.html?csid=0f2fbdf4804592e74559b0ec80174af4&sl=EN&currency=&csid=2cb1163306383acd38d622efdf75a509&sl=EN&currency=#epc::mr57386ar1153450
  3. Neutral start switch in forward & reverse tower, just below where cable attaches??
  4. Adjust directional cable so shift lever is centered in park slot of quadrant. Sometimes due to wear you have to take ball joints out and put a lock washer between ball joint and shift lever, this will give cable just a bit more travel.
  5. Need a hitch controller for one right now and yep NLA (no longer available) CNH can't even find one at a dealer anywhere or a used one as of a 2 weeks ago. See if it has a CNH Reman injection pump on it, if it does I would be little skeered. Have them calibrate the trans or better yet show you how to do it, especially if ya buy it.
  6. I need to brush up on the schematic on those but directly behind the battery box on the speed transmission shift linkage is a magnetic reed switch. Test it and make sure it opens & closes a DVM. The clutch pedal switches (top & bottom) need to be tested to make sure they open & close with pedal action. Right side of range box there is 2 switches that read the range rails, switches have 2 contacts so will have 4 wires. If you clean the connector good you will see they are labeled "a,b,c & d) a&b are a circuit and c&d. They should test as follows: RANGE SWITCH (1987326C1) OR CIRCUIT FAILURE IN RANGE TERMINALS C&D SHOULD HAVE CONTINUITY, WHILE A&B TEST OPEN IN NEUTRAL TERMINALS A&B SHOULD HAVE CONTINUITY, WHILE C&D TEST OPEN NOTE; POWERSHIFT MODELS HAVE A JUMPER WIRE IN PLACE OF THE SYNCHROMESH NEUTRAL SWITCH ABOVE THE BATTERY ALONG RIGHT SIDE OF THE TRANS HOUSING
  7. Brake piston o-rings (3) per side are likely tired. One o-ring is behind the differential bearing carrier an often over looked. You can confirm by fitting a clear tube on brake bleeder, loosen bleeder and filling it with Hy-Tran. Mark clear tube then take a nap and recheck. Optionally you can disconnect brake line at axle and cap it then pressurize with hand pump.
  8. I could NEVER give somebody that kind of advice, way to many variables in compressor pressures, impact wrenches an etc....... I will not use an impact wrench on any engine fasteners. Not to mention when you're working by the hour them dadgum things is too quick.....😉
  9. Seriously...................never use an impact on something like that. Wow! 101 ft lbs
  10. Change your timing belt and pull / rebuild your injectors. The timing belt takes special tools (timing pins,5 star tamper proof torx bit & tension gauge) only available from Deutz. Used to work on lot of those engines years ago.
  11. CIHTECH

    5220 Low Power

    In head scratching mode here too..........
  12. That spec sounds really close without pulling a book. There is no clutch thrust on your crank so that isn't a concern. Makes a feller wonder what it was when you installed it 6000 hours ago. I would be willing to bet it was out of range or at the very least on the very high side of spec then. I think if it was my call I would be installing a new rear main and rolling her back together, then pull pan and check thrust bearing. It may not show any wear and thrust may have been ground incorrectly.
  13. Split it and replace ref numbers 15,26 & 27 with Cummins part number 3912473. This is the seal that seals engine back plate to the outer diameter of rear main seal carrier. https://partstore.caseih.com/us/HoobAs/parts-search.html?csid=175117efe448e9dc33d3d544cbcb76ba&sl=EN&currency=#epc::mr49719ar751705
  14. Take the little thumb nut off or it may have a thin 3/4 (wrench size here) hex nut anyway take it off then slide coil off cartridge. Remove cartridge and replace o-ring (with correct size of ORB O-ring boss) reverse order to assemble. Sometimes the coil has corroded to the cartridge, you may have to work with it some to get it off.
  15. Your location would kinda help..........you may be just over the hill from someone and how would we know???? Welcome to the Forum, I am sure you are close to someone or someone knows a good mechanic close to you.
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