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CIHTECH

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Everything posted by CIHTECH

  1. Awww.... that is where my heart is. Started pulling wrenches at White dealer when I was 15 years old. Have ran lots of them thru the shop over the years. Wasn't enough of them around to keep us busy so, looked around our area and decided nobody was working on IH, hung out a shingle for IH / CaseIH repairs, started buying the tools and books. That was 30 years ago...........
  2. They have a good rep around here, used to be a strong dealer for them. Times have changed.......
  3. Wrench on front pulley?? Don't know the size right off my head but yeah that should work. See if you can turn it 2 complete revolutions. Gas or Diesel engine?
  4. Just "broke" in a 966 in-frame today....
  5. I went back in my old shop notes and found a note on this very failure. I should've looked right away for you.
  6. Google, Angle Repair & Calibration. They do mine (3) wrenches once a year. I've had good results using them, one time they replaced the head in my 1/2 drive with a coarse tooth drive. I complained and they sent a call tag and installed the correct fine tooth head.
  7. Happy Birthday..all who are celebrating
  8. It will drain batteries in less than a day. Mobile hotspots, computers, flashlights, mobile radio's, all the medical devices and power load cot that is always float charging. Yes it will be on a shoreline. 2 grp 65's under the hood then 2 grp 31's in the box that are linked upon start up. We plan to look into gas on next unit (2-3 years) down the road. Our everyday 1st out equipment we currently have is diesel, so we have diesel onsite and no gas. That could easily be changed and will in time. We are in a pretty remote area, backed up against mountains. We do have (2) serve vehicles, and (1) squad truck that is (1st response) on MVC's on mountain that are gas. Run 5 miles to town for fill up's.
  9. Engine is a FPT, which in my opinion is a result of a night in bed with Cummins and Iveco. Engine is rear gear train, I personally have no problems with the engines, so far they have been good. The rear end isn't even in the same zip code as a 7710, it came from Fiat was used in the 56-6635 & TS100 110 NH series. Biggest problem I have seen with the mechanical reverser is synchro failures. The power shuttle (hydraulic reverser) in my opinion is far better. The OEM's, NH & CaseIH have done a poor job of impressing upon the dealer the importance of transmission calibrations. In turn the dealer does the same poor job of educating the customer. Starting to see main hydraulic pump failures, but tractors have 6+ thousand hours on them. Like all brands today, they have so many options it makes your head spin. Looking up parts can be brutal, when you don't have dealer level partsbooks. Overall good little tractors, as good as anything else offered by others in comparable sized tractors.
  10. Thanks, for the info. I have went back and checked the average mileage we run per week, working on formulating a plan to put before board first of Dec. General consensus is to run it first out, one weekend a month. That should be around 3-400 miles a month.
  11. Rebuilt a trans on one with big tires like that, what a bear moving them around to access fuel tank an etc....ended up just putting them on backwards till we finished job.
  12. Question for you guys, I take care of the rolling apparatus (14) units at our local volunteer fire / rescue dept. We have a 2019 Dodge Ambulance (diesel) and have ran it hard since purchase. Purpose for this was get it thru initial warranty period, making sure we had no problems with the unit in general. Now we are looking at moth balling it and running out our 2008 Dodge as "first out unit". To date we have had "0" problems with the 2019, it has 30k miles. I think we should put the 2019 in a rotation, example....run it first out, 1 week per month....?? Other suggestions....?? Does anybody have advice on, known problems from setting? Will we create problems from DEF crystalizing, dosing valves sticking an etc....? Around here the tractors and so forth are used on a regular bases so I don't have too much case history of what happens when you park something with DEF for an extended time. The powers that be want to leave it out of a rotation an only run it on "second out calls" which doesn't happen that often. What problems will we create if any? Any and all advise greatly appreciated.....
  13. Yep, 1809964C92, you can purchase it almost anywhere and you will probably get the same thing regardless of where you get it. Truck shop, Navistar dealer, auto parts store, Ag Parts, Hy-Cap and so on.... That said I order from Ag Parts or CNH depending on what all parts I need for my job. If doing a clutch job then from Ag Parts as that is where clutch comes from. If doing other engine work, I order from CNH along with the rest of the parts.
  14. Call Hy-Capacity and start asking questions, see where it goes. I too would be curious of the answer.
  15. CIHTECH

    MX135

    Sorry, my mind went straight to signal check.......
  16. CIHTECH

    MX135

    Load check is already in the plate, just hook your signal line to the smallest fitting.
  17. Nice!! A good hoist / crane = an efficient shop. We have a bridge crane that covers our entire shop, gets used everyday.
  18. 222-768 Filter end 1/4 NPT Street elbow, pump end To look up your engine parts, you have to use the engine model number. In this case DT-414, you will NOT find engine parts under tractor model number. https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/caseih/engines/case/naam12cas158turbodiesel/6-cylinder-turbo-diesel-engine/complete-machine/fuel-injection-pump-and-connections/cn/6FAF2348-8FBF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/48DB6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6
  19. Very hard to tell from your picture but I would say lines are mixed up. Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. No. 1 is oulet "A' on injection pump then they need to be in firing order, looking at back of pump it rotates CCW. Looking at shaft end it rotates CW
  20. 4th range reverse lock out switch or adjustment of said switch. Switch is located in side of range transmission. Don't think at all it's the cause of diff not working. If you have a factory SM it will have some of the best troubleshooting info ever printed. IT manuals just hit the high spots.
  21. Per my GSS-1504 The data center is grounded on pins 1, 11, & 14. Then 12v from fuse 3A to ignition switch, from there to pins 22-26 of data center. Check then under load and confirm they are ok. I am the worlds most color blind guy so I don't pay a lick of attention to colors, I always test from pin to pin
  22. Try this.... CONDITIONS NEEDED TO CALIBRATE TRANSMISSION; TRACTOR NEEDS TO BE STARTED WHILE HOLDING THE UPSHIFT ROCKER SWITCH THEN WITHIN 3 SECONDS OF TURNING ON KEY HITTING THE DOWN SHIFT SWITCH OR HOLDING THE 2 ALTERNATE SHIFT BUTTONS WHILE STARTING THE ENGINE. DASH SHOULD THEN DISPLAY “CAL” IN THE LOWER DISPLAY. MAKE SURE PARK IS DRAWN, PLACE RANGE LEVER IN NEUTRAL POSITION, SHUTTLE IN FORWARD, ENGINE RPMS @ 1200 THEN HOLD THE UPSHIFT SWITCH WHILE SYNCROS CALIBRATE STARTING @ 1 COUNTING THRU 5 THEN DISPLAY WILL SHOW END. RELEASE AND HOLD UPSHIFT SWITCH AGAIN TO CALIBRATE C1 WHEN CALIBRATION IS COMPLETE IT WILL FLASH BETWEEN C1 AND THE VALUE. HOLD DOWNSHIFT SWITCH AND REPEAT THE SAME PROCEDURE TO CALIBRATE C2. THEN SHIFT INTO HIGH RANGE AND UPSHIFT WILL CALIBRATE C3 AND DOWNSHIFT WILL CALIBRATE C4 WITH THIS COMPLETE TURN ENGINE OFF TO STORE CALIBRATION. NOTE; THIS PERTAINS TO EARLY TIER 3 MODELS
  23. On the thrust needles versus composite washers, I would have to go back and find / read the bulletin. I no longer work at a dealership so don't have quick access to bulletins, maybe @SDman can shed some quick info on this. Just covered in a recent thread if I am not mistaken. To my knowledge the number in parts book will "sub" to the composite washer where applicable. The master clutch piston was changed from (2) anti-rotation tabs to 6. I typically replace all the clutch plates in each clutch. My theory is when you have it in your hand it is never cheaper than right then. We repair a lot of tractors and I struggle to keep everything in mind, but doesn't the Magnum service manual give a wear spec on the thickness of clutch plates? I like to change the seals & o-rings, as they get compressed, embedded with debris (from normal wear) and hard over time. To me it's simple, your dollars spent aren't going to be that much more to "know" you done the best you can. In US we didn't have trailer brake on 71-8900 series Magnums, couple around that are imported Euro spec tractors that do have the trailer brake. That said haven't needed to troubleshoot / repair one yet. Does your manual cover the trailer brake system?
  24. Clean in area of repair, relax any pressure on system by making sure hitch is down, cycle remote levers or put them in float with tractor shut-off. Simply remove the bolts and separate your valves. Replace ALL the o-rings between all sections. Between each section you need (2) # 120, 90 durometer o-rings and (1) # 126, 90 durometer o-ring.
  25. I am not aware of any "kit" for seals and o-rings. I have always just looked up and itemized each shaft, listing what I need. Some of the thrust needles between gears have been subbed to a composite wear washers in favor of needle bearings. Make sure you have good service info and follow it closely, clutch cups need to be properly indexed on shafts so drillings for oil pressure line up. I like to "air test" each shaft on the bench, then again when it's installed in transmission. If you keep air testing as you assemble, you are moving any potential problem to the "outside" document your tests. Best of luck...!!
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