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Everything posted by CIHTECH

  1. Back in early 90"s when I worked at White / Oliver dealer we also had Gehl. Sold a merger and chopper to a guy. Remember mounting a merger on his IH 1466. Years later rebuilt front end of tractor, makes me wonder what it weighs. Don't really remember how many years he used it. Rebuilding the pto on same tractor next week, I'll try to remember to ask him about it.
  2. I tried that 25 years ago and ran aground really quick for the same reasons you stated. I now will only rebuild your unit, it's up to the customer to have a backup plan in place for said tractor going down. Then each guy pays for his fair repair. Many times when the housing is damaged the needle bearings in the 540 idler gear are walked out to one side of gear because 1000 rpm shaft isn't running true anymore when under a load. We then end up completely rebuilding the entire unit.
  3. Ag Parts offers (a) repair sleeve for the DIY'ers or (b) a repaired housing. Better check all your bearings, the only way the clutch cup can get into housing like that is bad bearings. The needle bearing inside input shaft that supports front end of 1000 rpm shaft is quite often overlooked.
  4. Bad news on those, the only way to remove it is split tractor. You can get creative with a shop vac and clean most of the screen. Once tractor is split screen slides up in speed trans housing from the back. Follow link https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/caseih/tractors/agricultural/naaa01191agri-king/case-agri-king-tractor-prior-to-sn-8727601/hydraulics/hydraulics-charging-pump-oil-filters-and-inlet-filter/cn/BB4B9851-8FBF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6?modelCode=F6CA6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6&isSnFilterEnabled=false


    Heading our way, starting out with 4 to 8 of snow then ending up with sleet. At least that's the forecast.


    DT, prayers from Shenandoah Valley of Va.
  7. To follow up on 65806, it only needs to be one cylinder leaking internally transferring to other cylinder. Start it up and cycle loader a couple times holding it to relief in both raise and lower. Does a infrared temp gun show (1) cylinder warmer than other?
  8. CaseIH ***had*** a great numbering system for their o-rings. A 238-6123 broken down is a 238= normal o-ring, while 6= hardness, and 138= industry no. Sadly today a 238-6123 is probably a 14467983 that means absolutely nothing. I used to have so many part numbers in my head I could walk up to computer and type in all the part numbers I needed for said job, now today have to sub most of the numbers to some new fangled number. Prefix 237 was metric and prefix 239 was square cut or quad ring. We currently buy all our o-rings from McMaster Carr and stock 70 & 90 durometer hardness. Typically 90 is used in between valve bodies and etc, while 70 is used inside where next part slides in place compressing o-ring in groove. Lots of times common sense dictates what o-ring to use per application. We stock several "special" metric o-rings for NH & CaseIH hydraulic valves where the factory o-ring doesn't quite cut it. The torque for tie bolts per GSS-1505-1 is 20-25 ft. lbs.
  9. Part number of the conversion nozzle valve is 3802178 or 3802328. We always pull injectors and rebuild them in-house. PM your address and I'll send you a hand full of 9mm to 7mm compression seals, been throwing them in a drawer for years and hardly ever use them anymore. A full set comes with every B series Cummins upper engine gasket set.
  10. Original injectors where 9mm nozzle and part number 3914474. The opening psi (in bar) is stamped on injector body as well as last 4 digits of part number. The later injector was a 7mm nozzle (more meat left in cylinder head between the injector bore and exhaust valve seat) where heads where prone to cracking. The cracking problem typically wasn't an issue on natural 5130 tractors, only higher HP turbo versions. If running the old 9mm nozzle you can update to the 7mm with a conversion nozzle and Cummins makes a compression seal to go from 9mm to 7mm (3919358)
  11. I had one blow here.....kinda long story. Rebuilt engine in David Brown tractor, cylinder block was cracked between (2) cylinders. Stupid me offered that we had a good engine block welder local and he would do us a good repair. Gave customer the option of welding or replacing with a good used block. Customer wanted to weld due to it being cheaper......sigh.........we had it welded and machined, built the engine and test ran on dyno. I was happy with results. loaded it up sent it back across the mtn into WV. where it came from. Months later phone rings and we got coolant in crankcase. Went and brought the ole girl back in, pulled head and yep block was cracked right beside weld repair. Ordered the same block I should've got the first time around. "Yep we are giving the customer this repair" with exception of paying for the block. Got the beast back together (remember battery sets in front of radiator) test ran again making sure everything was ok. Shut it down from dyno run, putting her clothes back on went to start it one last time to park on lot when "BOOM" the whole hood raised up, blew the radiator to bits as well as the oil bath air cleaner assy sent into orbit. Ordered new radiator and fixed the rest of items......haven't nor do I want to ever want to see that tractor again.
  12. Just toss the whole link in wood stove for a day, take it out and thread it apart.
  13. Needed to clean up a pinion shaft in a JD that transferred a bit of gear to the shaft. Didn't have a tool post grinder for lathe, eating lunch pondering how to get out of the situation when I came up with an idea. Made a home made tool post grinder and played around on an old pto output shaft to learn how it was going to work. Determined it would work before cleaning up the pinion shaft.
  14. What's your charge pressure do when this happens? With the short allen wrench adjusting the comp, you have the (2) matched gauges in place? and setting it for 300 psi differential?
  15. Hard to know where to start, without more info. Need to know what charge pressure and lube pressure is. A factory service manual gives a lot of info regarding testing the hydraulics, the biggest thing is understanding how the system works. Takes a lot of study.......
  16. Local hardware store sells a 1/2 inch thick rubber mat with textured surface. I have been making a cardboard pattern and cutting my own.
  17. This is what I have been telling my customers to do.....have a bunch of tractors setting on lot waiting fickle little problems to be repaired. Spent a lot of money this year doing what I said I wouldn't do....bought laptop and programs to handle CNH, JD, Cummins and light Ind. applications. Funny that guys seem to think nothing of buying a 150K tractor then complain about a 100 diagnostic fee on top of repairs.
  18. If the cam isn't in block I would knock that plug out of there. If cam is in block, I would slide it forward far enough to allow removing it by concaving it in the center. Of course clean as much of the silicone out as possible before removing it. Put it together with correct seal ring and move on.
  19. Serial # 2610172U029919 sporting a rebuilt engine and living in the Shenandoah Valley of Va.
  20. If you go to (mycnhistore.com) you should be able to pull up any parts diagram regarding your tractor. This only applies to tractors after serial # 18001
  21. If remotes switches aren't hooked up, then that certainly is a problem. As stated the ground goes thru all 4 switches to the relay.
  22. Ground for main hitch control relay in side console, starts on left side and goes thru all (4) remote switches (terminals '0" & '01") when they are in "off" position. This keeps another operator from operating hitch from in cab controls and possibly causing human injury. Indicating electrical hitch controls are in "N"
  23. Added that to my shop notes......thanks ah bunch.
  24. Without a serial number the term "Farmall 95" is fairly broad. I think if tractor has the out board reduction that the brake slave cylinders are mounted externally. There is a lot of info on adjusting / bleeding the brake linkages on the Farmall series tractors on CNH's dealer Portal. Sadly I no longer have excess to that info. If indeed slave cylinders are external then should easy be able to see if they are leaking. The biggest thing I remember regarding adjustments is that slave would run out of travel before fully applying the brakes. As others stated use only the approved CNH Mineral oil for brake fluid.
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