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INTERNATIONAL 1466

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Everything posted by INTERNATIONAL 1466

  1. Yes, as a couple others stated, we are all good. Bad stuff stayed north of us. Thanks for checking!
  2. Know a guy who filled his posts with sand. He said no more noise from the rear end. I never ran it. As far as the fenders, yes the original IH fenders have more bracing. That is why non ROPS fenders sometimes vibrate, they are only bolted through the sheet metal. Kinda a bummer, but can be fixed easy enough.
  3. Like bill said, it is an art. An art that is long gone. Neither of my boys have ever plowed anything serious. It is as much operator as machine, and a good operator will make it look easy. My Dad did, he was an artist with the plow. As for the wheels, well the plow hitches all were moved to match 30 inch tread settings. never plowed enough after going to 30 inch rows to move the wheels. Really wanted an on land hitch, both duals and tread was irrelevant. Never happened though and now we rarely plow.
  4. I will get some pictures, hopefully I remember.
  5. Same physical size 766-1566. 14 has bigger brakes and axles and a 436 cu in vs a 10 has a 414. You would be happy with either. Lot of good things to look for have been stated.
  6. Well the 10 was more popular because when they were new, they fit more farms size wise. The 14 is simply a bigger horse and there were not as many large demands then. I personally will take a 14 every time over a 10, but both are good tractors. As far as years, not any one better than another. Hours make no difference without proof. Everything and anything has been fixed by now. If you drive it and walk around it you can tell pretty quick. Look at the drawbar pin hole, is it nice and round or egg shaped? Is the shift all sloppy, does the clutch pedal go past the platform stopper when depressed? Is the front axle tight or does it wiggle when you shake a front wheel? Is it all complete, correct batteries and such? Do the lights work? These are real quick tell tales to me of a tractors care. If all that is good then check out the tires, wheels, smoke out the breather and such. Listen to it with your ear right at the IH in the grille? Is it quiet or does it fart. Should be no air sound at an idle. Hope some of this helps, maybe I rambled way too much. Here are pictures of three from our country. 1st one a 1066 we bought for $4300, mechanically excellent but ugly as sin! We were told over 20,000 hours, who knows? 2nd a 1466 we sold for $15,000 a few years ago. Excellent tractor, paint job was done by previous owner and was 10 plus years old. 3rd a 1466 we owned for a couple years. Excellent tractor as well, mechanically very good original paint 13,000 hours! We sold it for $13,500. We farmed with all these tractors I wasn't afraid of any one. This is just to give you a picture to go with a price at a given time. These were all auction prices, we bought one and sold two. Not all the same year.
  7. I have never been disappointed in a 3LM, but also have yet to try an S2E. I do know that a 3LM will not impress if you don't turn the screw. We put one on a 1486 for a customer. He went to IH for a new turbo and that is what they sent him. He didn't want it turned up, what a dog, no response. We turned the screw a little and then it came to life. So I agree if wanting to stay at factory fuel maybe not a 3LM, otherwise there is nothing wrong with them. Course we are the kind that more is always better so everything we have is turned to the end and then some. With that said, we will probably try an S2E next time. If an S2E will gain 27 horses, great! I will judge that myself though.
  8. Well you really can't go wrong with a 1066. That is a really good all around tractor. As far as what to look for, well that list could be endless. Depends on how tractor savvy you are. If you are not at all, then you better ask for some help, and if you are then you will be fine. We may need a little more info to help you better. Do you want it down to the gnats butt details or basic guidance?
  9. There are two versions of the thin hitch. One has spacers welded on the rear bottom of the points. This hitch is simply back about an inch further. Some thin ones don't have that. Never knew what the difference was for. Maybe to clear the tube hitch, not sure. We have all three of those styles.
  10. Our 656's all had the battery under the right side of the tank like yours. Very early one and really late one too. The fast hitch drawbars were at least three variations, maybe more. I think the thick and thin were available at the same time. Just large and small tractors like ksfarmdude said. The drawbar you show in the hitch is what both our 656's had new.
  11. To each his own I agree, but after running them with the dead mans style throttle I will never farm with one without it. To me they are way easier to run. Can just simply move the throttle while still steering. No need to reach.
  12. John Deere is about as pleasant as a rabid skunk. But that's just my opinion.
  13. She is a dandy! Nice to find a well kept and cared for machine like that.
  14. The nut probably came off the counter shaft. I had that happen with mine. Big job to fix on a 6588. They are an animal to split. Nut comes off the counter shaft and lets it drop down, causing the gears to not mesh correctly. Run it long enough and there will be no 1st at all. This can be determined by removing the bottom cover of the speed transmission for a look see.
  15. Yeah, that's our bolt bin. I wish I had bought more of those bins on the dealer sales years ago! We only have around 100 IH ones. Whole thing is going to have 700 bins when we are finished. Those bins are spendy now, so we add some every year.
  16. First move the left wheel way out, then drain and remove the lower fuel tank. Then remove the side cover so you can see the reverse shift fork. Now remove the top cover locking the park as stated. Now you can fix the shift cover. Doing this job without taking the cover off the side will make you crazy! Just my opinion on the many we have done. I see no way to get one back together without removing the side cover. That special tool deal..........well...........not me.
  17. That is correct. I thought the same thing on finding one. Would be pretty tough at salvage.
  18. Shiek, I wasn't very clear on the rear frame description. Was half sleeping and thinking about another project. The only thing that really needs to change in the rear frame is the constant mesch gear. A 15 has a 48 tooth and a 14 is a 50. If a guy can find a fifty from the counter shaft update kit that is all you need. If not you have to change out the entire 15 counter shaft set and put the 14 one in the 15. I don't remember if the bearing on the main shaft is the same, that may need change too. Anyway, wanted to clear that up a bit as I said input shaft which was not correct. Don't want to lead anyone astray if I can help it. Also going to the 50 tooth does change all the speeds a little. Since it is driven all speeds are faster a little bit. Hope this makes sense, sometimes it way easier to do than describe.
  19. Cruella has the guts from a 14 in the speed trans, and the input shaft from a 14 in the rear frame. All the rest of the rear frame is still 1566. She looks 100% 1566 on the outside. If we ever get another 15, it will be converted as well. I asked Allied Precision about making the speed trans output shaft about a year before they closed. Jeff said he would if we ordered enough. Didn't think we would have enough demand for "enough" so it never happened. Some of us crazy farmers can just never leave anything alone.......sigh......... but it sure is fun!
  20. If you look close you can see some hair line cracks in that handle. I keep hoping it doesn't break apart! If it does and a red one shows up, y'all don't run me up okay.
  21. So here are a couple pictures of the old school handles we all used to get. They came in red, orange, blue and green. At least that I saw. There were variations in size and shapes. The one pictured were called pistol grips and they were our favorite. The boys saw one on ebay new in the package a while back. It was orange, not red. I told them buy it anyway. They said Dad its on auction. It sold for $300!!!!!! Guess some pumpkin guys like them too! Anyway almost every truck stop had bins full of the knobs and the chrome pieces to extend, corner and so on for them. I never saw the knobs packaged, they were just in a bin with a sticker. I had heard some IH guy was making these handles, but I have yet to see one. For $300 they will just get the factory knob though. The one pictured is on my favorite 1466, she's special.
  22. Yes, Dead Man's throttles is the probably the correct term. They started that style of handle with the pistol grip on pullers. The throttle lever was actually spring loaded. If anything happened to the driver and he let go the spring returned them to the kill position. Hence nicknamed "Dead Mans". We always called them that. They then became kinda a church it up thing on stock tractors. We put one on every 56 and 66 we have. I will get a picture of the actual pistol grip handle.
  23. Good luck, we used to get those at the I80 Chrome shop along with the handles. Not anymore. They are NLA as far as I know. We make our own throttles now. Not chrome, just chrome paint. Guys like them though. If I ever see those red pistol grip handles again, I am going to buy them all. Here is what we do currently.
  24. It can be done. We have a 1566 with a four speed. It takes a pile of work though. You will need a 14 donor. As stated third gear is straight through and that will not change ( It will now be fourth, but the speed will be the same as high third was). Ours has 20.8's and it will go 21 mph on the road. Basically all you gain putting the four speed in a 15 is you get a gear almost like high second on a 14. We really like ours. High 2nd is a little slower than on a 14 and so is high 3rd. To do this swap you need the guts from the speed trans and the guts from the rear end of the 14. There is no way to mate a four speed without the kit (which was from Allied Precision) to a 15 rear end. You have to put the shaft from the rear frame of the 14 into the 15 to mate the speed trans to it. I know this is somewhat confusing, but I am not a novel writer. Basically you have the whole rear end tore apart and the speed trans to get it done. Not that bad for junkyard parts, but a lot of labor and gaskets. So to those who say it can't be done, come on over and take Cruella for a test drive. She has a four speed. This is Cruella pictured.
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