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OR remove boom & tank, shorten wheel legs add rear hitch....and turn that rogator into a 4wd Hydro frankentractor!

Ive seen plenty of 81s but never a 82. This came up for sale in FB. Ive been hecling the wife that I should plant the place to winter wheat this fall and not have to deal with tenants anymore that always seem to want to push the limits. Maybe 40 acres at most. Maybe if I was a big younger. This must be the last small pull type them nade!

Those were big combines. The 82 had to have been the last small under 100 acre combine on the market

Anyone using virtual fencing? I'm looking hard at using it on our cattle, sheep and goats. Portable electric fence is working good on the cattle but not so good with sheep and goats. It takes too many wires for multi species grazing. It seems there are many options. Just looking for some experiences. Thx-Ace

Good way to haul some of them Missisippii watermelons!! l bet Anson and Gary would like that video. lol

Hit the dowel pin hole in the cover with a hammer and "stake" the hole so the dowel cant come out -- that pin is below flush in that hole -- should have been done from the factory anyways

I had a Patriot years ago that had the button you could push to free-wheel. If it doesn’t have something like that, you could probably pull motors or disassemble the planetary so the motor would not try and turn. Does it have some kind of park brake pack and how does it work? That said, I don’t think pulling it is a very good option. If you did pull it, I think you would have to hook the steering system to a remote on a tractor to control where the wheels are headed and use a tow bar since it will have no brakes of any kind. Our sprayers have become disabled a few times over the years and there is no good way to move them other than a sprayer trailer or fix it where it’s at. Releasing park on ours without hydraulics is the problem. I just saw your other thread. If you don’t care about the sprayer and just want the engine, things are less complicated.

I wouldn't rely on any hydraulic bypass for more than a couple hundred feet and real slow. If there is not a mechanical disconnect. Pull the motors.

I think there is a button on the hydraulic motors on each wheel that need to be pushed in to tow.

Combine Racing in the Netherlands https://www.facebook.com/reel/936094115567343

Boy, I sure wish that was down close to me... $700 is a steal! I'd happily give three or four times that for one for my few acres.

I went back to get the link so I could send it to you but looks like its already spoken for. NOt a surprise at only $700!

So I built a 1/2 scale replica of a John Deere H and needed something to pull behind it and I built this from parts of an IH grain drill that I used to pull behind an actual JD H

As a hobby I do a little acting now and again and last year I got invited to audition for this film. I play Chuck, a dying farmer whose sons left the farm for big city job. He was forced to sell his farm an coerced into putting the money into a trust and is now living in an apartment behind the Wal Mart. He would have rather ended his days in his ancestral home but it seems that everyone else knew better. He complains bitterly about all that and the corporate state of agriculture. Film has already made the rounds in Wisconsin and Iowa and now Texas. It will eventually go to streaming so keep an eye out for it. It isnt just about Chuck. It makes you think about how we all might meet our end and on whose terms that might be. See if you can guess which one I am! https://www.winterhymnsfilm.com/trailer

Moldboard plowing has not been done here since the 70’s. On our ground, plowing causes many more problems than it solves.

I have a guy with a wrecker that will pull it but I need to see how to get the brakes released.

Thanks, the only other thing I can think of is literally the simplest thing, the air filter. Could possibly be that it just can't keep up. Tomorrow of all goes well with the rain, I'll pull the filter out to see if that helps.

When l was junior in high school, l went to live an aunt and uncle so l could finish school. He drove a school bus everyday and would bring it home at night. So in the morning l drove his 1968 Ford F-100 Ranger XLT to school. When he got to school and unloaded the kids, he would leave in it and go to auctions. (He was a cattle buyer) Then drive the pickup back to school then l would drive it home. l think it was a 360 V-8 and 3 sp auto. Even had the dealer add-on A/C and those fancy little bed rails.

1976 Chevrolet Monte Carlo, white with blue vinyl top, 350 2bbl with the breather flipped. It was a good car that was tough because I just drove it without doing regular maintenance.

I seen it here come in wheat or grain after combining too.I plan on clipping each pasture as soon as cows are off next year.I already walk the pastures to spray any Russian Olive,Japanese Honeysuckle and Mutiforal Rose.These pastures used to be really clean when I milked cows and rotated every 12 hrs. But through the years with a bad renter for 2 years and his over grazing and me not having cattle a couple of years after that and making hay to sell they went backwards.I then got cattle back about 15 years ago but didn't manage them as intensely as I should and woody plants took hold.Last three years with me spot spraying with Crossbow I really cleaned up the invasive woody plants. I totally took control of them and now its just getting the stragglers but they always will be there.I really wasn't concerned about Marestail untill a few weeks ago and now I need to control it.I didn't think it would take over my pastures. I thought the cows would keep it clipped off.Boy was I wrong..Now I see it more and I want to try to get ahead of it.

Does that not have the cap in the center of the hubs ? Remove the cap and thread a bolt in there to depress the release

My rogator experience is zero. My hydro experience tells me the motors are probably splined into the drive train and support nothing. Can think of a few exceptions but they are smaller skidloaders.

24d-b does not kill trifoliates, if it's still available. Works good on dandelions in alfalfa, but that's not mares tail in clover. Plants with a rhizome root system are tough to deal with. Our problem where I live is morning glory.

The fuel tap has been serviced, new fuel line, new start valve w/cable, and every piece inside that can be unscrewed is new (slide diaphragm too). No dirt, gum or water in the carb when I took it apart. Runs fine anywhere above idle. But set the idle too high and you can't shift it. Low idle it just pops back through through the carb and quits, unless you keep the choke valve cracked. Had been testing it without the airbox, then was told that entire intake assembly has to be installed because they are so touchy. No go on that one. Ran it up on TDC and checked the timing marks, hoping for sheared flywheel key. Every thing right on the money. All ignition components are new with the exception of the pulse coil, which would mean pulling the engine. Apologies for hijacking your thread, Minnesota, I just got excited talking to someone who knows anything about these machines.

@Chester5732 I would for sure do that bolt as well as do something with the dowel pin up above the cam gear, aka the killer dowel pin, for some reason we never had issues with the dowel with a lucas pump or the VE bosch pumps, never had an A series bosch one fall out either, Have only seen it in with the P series pumps, but why take a chance since you're gonna be in there anyway. The one we did had the bosch VE rotary pump on it so I can't say how the injection lines will fit with the hood, might be a bit tight. depending on the intake top plate a guy might want to get one so you can install the gird heater from a 24 valve dodge pickup on it, sure makes for nice starting in cold weather. I actually have a guy that has the pattern to cut out the top plate to do that but you may need to get the air horn piece for the intake off a different machine to be able to do that, I ain't sure what setup tthey used in the rogators, worst case a guy could fab up the airhorn to make it work with a grid heater

@Chester5732 we are both pretty proud of how it turned out, havent got to get it painted yet but aside from that if you werent an IH guy you'd never know it was a transplant, it is currently in a non running state, best guess is the one front cover bolt came out and took out the oil pump, we never pulled the cover but that bolt is a known issue, guess we should have and put lock tite on it, now we have to split the front bolster off and pull the tin cover, replace the oil pump and that bolt. Before you put yours in take that dang bolt out thats above the oil pump and red locktite it. Is the engine you are getting an inline or rotary pump engine?

Seen them with both markings R1 - F2 -- seems like other things that marking changed over the years You should be asking if there is the flat plug or is it square to identify the alternator Many tractors still have the factory regulator , but are using the 10SI internal -- just have the wires jumpered at the old regulator

More common problem than you are thinking Had an '88 that the customer put new alternator on -- "still not charging" -- one would think that between the mounting bolt or the belt tightening bracket , the alternator would have made ground

Roundup doesn’t touch it but there are many other chemistries that do. It is easily managed in row crops.

That pto shaft is running anytime the engine is. Either the bearings are loose and it leaks with a load on it or you are doing stationary work and only notice when sitting still.

Carb throttle is not wide open until engine is loaded to full load.

Or is it a black to Cummins N14 with a bad ecm?

Maybe your hat makes the water smell funny?

Well, I just got a text on the engine. That deal is done and it even comes surrounded by a Rogator 854. Now to get the tractor to go with it.

IH made pull types combines up to the merger and CaseIH made them till 1991. https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/110468-ih-pull-type-combines/

My neighbor @taylor1566 has one . This was the last time it was used . It needs a bearing on the cylinder if I remember correctly. He wanted to get it ready for oats this year but used his 1680 for the 3 acres he had . Another one locally sitting out under a tarp for sale but not cheap enough for a hobby machine IMO I forgot I can't add the picture . Was 12 years ago FB memory

That’s my plan. The tractor is usable as is for now. When I have the majority of the parts bought bring it in the shop for the winter. I’m in Michigan but may take you up on it.

Buy the tractor and motor. Figure it out later.

Oh my that’s the holy grail of combines to me , and it has a scouring cleaner ,oh my goodness ! I love to combine 50 acres of birds foot trefoil with that baby !

Thanks, I got it broke loose. I appreciate the information.

Well i don't have an answer, just wondering why valve lash was only a problem when hooked to the sled. He said elsewhere that it was at max load or something during it's other duties and never missed a beat. But yes by all means, eliminate the valves as the source of the trouble, we got nothing else to go on. Definitely a showing problem for sure.

We found the problem yesterday. There was a small pinhole in one of the lines going to the rear brakes that would just dribble into the frame rail and not on the floor. The pinhole became more of a line break once we started working the brake pedal harder. We replaced the line section and bled the brakes and all is good again.

There was a lot of really poor people here before WW2. Lots of veterans that were in what I would consider terrible situations said it really wasn’t that bad compared to how they were living on the farm before they were drafted. People only want to look at the 50’s and 60’s as the example of what it should be like. My family never owned any land whatsoever until 1913 and were never anything other than completely broke before that. Most of them died young and did not see their children grow up. They wouldn’t believe what farming is like now and what people consider a hardship or how much you can have and still be considered poor.

My first car which I bought in time for my senior year in high school was a ‘72 Chevy Nova 2 door coupe, 350 V-8, automatic, bucket seats. Nice car. I bought it used from a young man who had just bought it new, but had signed up to join the NAVY and wasn’t going to need the car for a few years, so he put it up for sale. I bought it for $1,900.00, which sounds cheap now, but as a 16 year old kid to me back then was a lot of money. At that time, my dream car(s) that I would have wanted were either, A Buick GS Gran Sport, or a Pontiac Judge, or a Oldsmobile 442. Lol! The price on those new at that time were all over $4,000.00, which to me at the time seemed like $10,000,000.00, and so, unattainable at the time. And so, I never did get my Gran Sport, Judge, or 442. My brother has my ex ‘72 Nova to this day. He bought it off me years ago. He never drives it, it’s just sitting in his garage.

Just seen these posts. Whew, glad ya got this figured out. Been changing this fitting for at least the last 40 years. And like snowshoe said, on the 7’s and 9’s running a fuel line to the top of the tank into the sender unit. I drill a 11/32 hole and tap with 1/8 pipe tap. Install elbow and connect a fuel hose. Don’t even have to drain the fuel to remove the return fitting out of the bottom of the tank to install a plug. I hook the shop vac to the fill hole. Duct tape to vac hose to the tank and turn on

The 3/8" tube sleeve for those engines is #9846567. That's for the fuel lines and the coolant lines on the other side of the block. The 1/4" tube sleeve for the small oil line under the injection pump is #87017023. Those are the current CaseIH numbers That "sleeve system" allows the pipes to be misaligned and still seal, plus they can handle vibration better than a hard flared end. Like TB5288 said, be sure to get the old sleeve out of the threaded nut. A good o ring pick and some patience goes a long way with this. Without the sleeve in place, the threaded nut can actually fall right off the pipe, this is fairly normal. When installing, work the new sleeve onto the pipe and push the pipe up into the brass fitting as far as it will go, then tighten the nut down snug, but not too tight.

The line gun was a 4570 built like a single shot shotgun (not a weapon at all but a line gun). The line roll string was heavy fishing line. on a stick and was just inserted in the muzzle. My Gunners Mates Guns operated the line gun. If the ships were correctly positioned one round would make the pass over, ocasionaly the GM's would have to rewind the string and start over, sometimes thing refused to be as we like All refueling was a night, we were a war ship and the most hazardous situation was at sea attached to an oiler. I was attached to a nuke ship for 3 YEARS ( we carried 300,000 gallonsnd fuel for lessor foscle burning ships.

This is Hadley’s Point, Mount Desert Island Maine, I have been coming here almost every year since I was born, and Jinx has been down here swimming every day this week. She swims for about an hour, pukes from the salt water and then we go back to the campground. Today we were near this sea kayak tour, takes them about an hour to get the tourists together and explain the whole thing, Jinx decided they needed their money’s worth, because she came up with her ball, walked over 10’ from the group, humped up and had projectile explosive diarrhea in ankle deep water, then came back to me to continue her game like this is perfectly normal… 😂😂😂 I wish I had had a camera at the time.