Jesse in WI

Can someone help me ID a hydraulic cylinder so I can order a seal kit for it? Cylinder is a tie-rod style with clevis ends. 3" bore, 8" stroke and 1.125" rod diameter. There are some casting numbers that don't seem to cross reference to anything i can find on the internet.

Recently purchased a JD 4850 2wd powershift. The price and condition were right for an almost 200hp tractor. I have noticed that my idle speed runs around 1250rpm which seems too high to me but I'm new to this era of tractor. The internet seems to tell me that idle speed should be 850-900rpm. If I need to slow the idle down can anyone tell me how to do that? There seems to be a turnbuckle on the throttle linkage going to the pump but I'm hesitant to just start turning things fuel related for fear of the repercussions. Thanks for any help.

Not sure if this is the same project as you are looking at, but this caused quite an uproar in northern MN recently. https://www.enr.com/articles/63726-mesabi-metallics-plans-15b-iowa-steel-mill-has-3b-minnesota-iron-ore-mine-investment

It's like you were there last night looking at it with me.

We found the problem yesterday. There was a small pinhole in one of the lines going to the rear brakes that would just dribble into the frame rail and not on the floor. The pinhole became more of a line break once we started working the brake pedal harder. We replaced the line section and bled the brakes and all is good again.

Goes to floor with no resistance with engine on/vacuum booster plugged in. If I unplug the vacuum line from booster I have a solid pedal with engine running.

I'll check this when I get home tonight. I've checked with engine on, engine off/key off, but not with engine off/key on

I pulled the vacuum line and stuck a wire into the booster through that port. No fluid on the wire.

Got a 2001 F150 in the shop with little to no brake pedal with engine running. Turn engine off and pedal is solid. If I unplug the vacuum line to the booster the pedal is solid with engine running. Trying to figure out if I've got a bad master cylinder or booster. No leaks on the brake lines that I can tell. It's been in the shop on concrete with no drips for 3 days. Just don't want to start throwing parts at a farm truck to figure it out if possible. Thanks

This tractor is for my 12 year old son and to say he's a bit of a speed demon daredevil would be an understatement of epic proportions. I think maybe we'll just still to an NA engine and skip the blower for a couple years.

Let's suppose, totally hypothetically of course, that a guy bought a Farmall C sight unseen and brought it home, got it running, realized that there wasn't a lot of oil pressure (18-25lbs) and had the engine lock up after about an hour of operation. Now suppose that guy hasn't pulled the pan to see what actually happened to the engine but was thinking about swapping out the C113 for a C123 if a donor engine came available for less that the price of a rebuild of the C113. Would the engine be a simple remove/replace swap or would there be additional items that would need to be thought about to put the C123 engine in place?

Thank you

I'm working on a farmall C with a zenith carb and I'm trying to determine the model of the carb but the tag appears to have been attacked by hungry squirrels. Can anyone help me determine the model number?

I wrap everything (wet/dry) with an inline wrapper. The dry hay comes out of the wrap just as nice as it went in. You will have people tell you wrapping dry hay is waste of money but I like to think of it as a cheap shed. Also, if you figure how much loss you have on the outside 4" of each bale if they sit outside the cost of the wrap starts to look a lot better. The only issue I have with wrapping inline is trying to sell the wet bales. They buyer pretty much has to get a load as they use the bales because once you take them out of the wrap they start to break down. With an individual wrapper you could sell in bulk and not have the spoilage from the open air. You will need a bale grabber to move individually wrapped bales.

After building this plow last fall the boy finally got to use it last weekend. 4-5 passes to get it dialed in and he was off to the races with a huge smile. Only missed the entry trip on the clutch a couple times.