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Jesse in WI

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Jesse in WI last won the day on June 7

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About Jesse in WI

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  • Birthday 11/04/1981

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  1. These were my first 2 thoughts and in the same order as listed above. I'm the owner of a JD B and it always amazes me that anyone could use these things with a loader on it. Hand clutch, no live hydraulics, no live PTO. Those must have been "the good old days" I've heard referenced frequently. Heck, I can barely back a wagon up with mine. Look backward, push hand clutch forward, try to steer, and lets not even talk about the fact that reverse is geared faster than 3 or 4 of the forward gears.
  2. That looks pretty similar to mine....and almost half the price.
  3. I bought this a couple years ago after renting some cheap ones from neighbors. I have no complaints other than not buying something like this earlier. https://www.realtuff.com/squeeze-chute/
  4. TP beat me to the AC comment.
  5. I guess they fool proofed my Honda Shadow. The engine kills if you try to put it in gear with the stand down. Don't even ask how long it took me to figure that out in the driveway one day.
  6. It's my opinion that about 90% of your round bale shape is determined by the size and shape of the windrow. I always figure you should match windrow width to equal the baler pickup width or just a bit wider. If crop conditions don't allow for that than the best bet is half the width of the pickup and bale on one side for 15 seconds and switch to the other side for 15 seconds and repeat until full. We make 4' wide bales and my goal when raking is to make a full windrow that is about 4'6" wide.
  7. Seems odd that there would be noise when loaded? Any idea where its coming from? Otherwise I was going to be a smart-azz and say just take the hitch out of the receiver when not using it. Jesse
  8. http://www.apacheequipment.com/ Should be able to find what you need here. I've used the Apache and Palco stuff before. Very well built.
  9. Yep except the tubeline doesn't quit working for no reason when it's -20° outside and you have an appointment to get to. Silo guys will know what I'm talking about.
  10. Same issue with mine. When the field is dry and powdery I have gone to using a tractor with duals to plant with to stop some of the tire track compaction. You can put all the down pressure you want on the 5100, but all you are going to end up doing is breaking stuff. A whole bunch of small, expensive stuff.
  11. We had to go back to the drawing board with our crops after seeing what mother nature did to us over winter. We took all the hay fields that were too far gone and burnt them down with round up and no tilled corn into them. Beans went into old corn fields where we could get into them. Since it was so wet this spring we had plenty of fields/portions of fields that didn't get planted with corn/beans. Last week it dried out enough to get into some of those areas so we disked down the stubble and planted Sudan since we are going to need the forage. A discussion was had about claiming Prevent Planting those acres but that put us at not being able to plant the sudan grass until after 8-1 and not being able to harvest anything until after 11-1. Given the weather we've had it was too risky to go this route. Getting three cuttings or more of the forage was more important than the Gov't check on these acres. I do not have a no till drill capable of doing these kinds of seeds otherwise I would have burnt down the hay field and planted right into it. I had thoughts about interseeding the hay fields with sudan grass just to see how it would do if I could get access to a no till drill, but the wet spring allowed the weeds and grass to get too far ahead for that.
  12. We are gonna do about 50 acres of it this summer since the winter kill got all of our alfalfa. I last did this crop about 6-7 years ago so I have to draw on some old memories. We try to cut at about 3 feet tall. If it gets too tall (which doesn't take much if you hit a warm wet spell) it gets real tough and is almost impossible to get dry enough to bale. I plan on cutting it and then hitting it with the tedder a day later to help it dry. I have rollers in my discbine and my neighbor has flail conditioners and I think this is going to be the crop that settles our ongoing discussion about which method helps dry the crop better. My bales won't be fed until winter so they'll have plenty of time to ensile in the line. I'd think a couple weeks to a month would be enough though.
  13. I just put in about 30 acres on Saturday into bean stubble but I lightly disked it first. Are you trying to do it to supplement the hay field or are you going to spray whatever is standing?
  14. Without knowing your situation my gut instinct would be to say "as little as possible". All I was trying to say is figure out if you are going to end up spending more money fabricating something rather than buying a new one when you factor in all the material costs and time spent. If you are going to be able to find a way to do something cheaper than buying from the dealer and have the time to do it, then by all means go for it. I apologize again for taking your topic off on a serious digression from you original question. The first place I check for used parts on equipment is here https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/ They have a location about 30 minutes away so it's an easy location for me. They have many locations and possibly have something for you.
  15. I'm not sure making broad based assumptions about someone you've never met is the best way to go about things. The point I was trying to make is that sometimes people are so stuck in the "make my own" routine that they fail to realize it would have been more cost effective and better for your budget to buy the items from the dealer when you factor in cost of materials and time spent. I have also made a lot of parts when the cost of new was too high to justify paying, but I always try and figure out how much it's going to cost me in time and materials before I start fabricating away.
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