Jesse in WI

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About Jesse in WI

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/04/1981

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    Western Wisconsin

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  1. Jesse in WI

    Hydraulic sliding pallet forks

    x2 on the HLA quality. I have a set of 48" pallet forks and 2 sets of 2 prong round bale spears and let's just say they've all been "strength tested" and passed with flying colors. Jesse
  2. Jesse in WI

    A fella has got to have his priorities straight !

    Same here in the country in the upper half of WI. You know you're living right around here when you've got a new lifted truck, new wheeler/snowmobile, and new 40x60 shed to go with your run down drafty trailer house and all these things have a bank lien except the house.
  3. Jesse in WI

    F656 Starter Solenoid

    I want to thank you guys for saving me from myself on this one. I went to look at the starter and thought I better check that jumper wire for the clutch safety switch. Sure enough the Spade connector on the right side of this picture had either worked it's way loose or got kicked loose. I slid the connector back together and she fired right up. Overlooking the easy things must be written into my DNA. Thanks for all the help.
  4. Jesse in WI

    F656 Starter Solenoid

    Thanks for the input. The clutch safety switch was "fixed" prior to me owning the tractor so I don't think that's the problem but I will check to make sure. I have to use this tractor to feed round bales with so I've been using it and troubleshooting it between feedings. It's getting tiring always having to jump the solenoid. It's also getting cold out and I'd like to get my heater houser cab on but I can't do that until I fix the starting issue. Thanks Jesse
  5. Jesse in WI

    F656 Starter Solenoid

    I am having trouble with my starter on my F656. When I push the button on the dash there it acts like there is no connection to the starter solenoid. I thought it was the push button so I tested that but it checks out fine with a continuity test. The battery connections and everything else are good as far as I can tell. If I use a screwdriver and jump the battery terminal to the terminal closest to the engine block the starter turns over just fine and that is how I've been starting the tractor for the last week. This is not the way I want to continue starting the tractor for obvious reasons. Is there a way to test if the solenoid is bad? I haven't researched the wiring diagram to verify I have continuity between the key/push button on the dash and the small terminal on the solenoid yet but it seems odd that everything was working fine and now as of last week I've got nothing. As a side note I was recently having trouble with the sediment bowl leaking and the gas was dripping onto the starter and solenoid. I am wondering if this did something to the solenoid. Thanks for any help. Jesse
  6. Jesse in WI

    Which alternator do I need?

    This is not the original alternator. It is much too shiny.
  7. Jesse in WI

    Auction Results

    Two people wanted it real bad. The key to any good auction.
  8. Jesse in WI

    Which alternator do I need?

    So much good information here. Thanks guys. How much of a job is it to remove the pulley from my old alternator and install it on the new one?
  9. Jesse in WI

    Which alternator do I need?

    😂 but the dealer told me running their brand of oil would have no ill affects on my electrical system. Did they lie to me?
  10. Jesse in WI

    Which alternator do I need?

    I assume the one wire references the big post labeled battery on the alternator. What do I do with the other 2 wires and the resistor?
  11. Jesse in WI

    Which alternator do I need?

    I am finding the alternator on my 986 to be faulty. On Sunday I noticed the gauge wasn't reading normally so I used my ohm-meter to see what voltage was being put out. No matter what I did with engine RPMs I could only get 11.8v at the alternator and it got worse as I turned on the lights and blower fan. I grabbed the alternator from my 1586 and put it on the 986 and now I'm getting 14.3v at the alternator. My question really comes as to which alternator do I get as a replacement? The one I took out was stamped 1102380-63A. After some internet research I see this is a cheaper alternator that puts out 63 amps. It appears after looking in the parts book that this tractor should have a bigger output. I see that All States Ag Parts sells two styles of alternators for this model; a three wire and a self-exciting. I would like to eliminate the resistor that is located in the box between your feet in the cab if possible. Will the self-exciting style do this and how do I modify the existing wiring if necessary. As a side note I don't really run anything electrical other than the lights (all but two are converted to LED), the blower motor for the heater, and an oscillating fan to keep the back window from fogging up when I'm using the snowblower in the winter. Any ideas or options would be much appreciated. Jesse
  12. Jesse in WI

    Do you sound like any of these?

    Hopefully not too far off topic but I'd add the following sub-items to #3: 3a) Work smarter, not harder 3b) "that's just the way we've always done it" is not an acceptable answer to the question "Why do you do ____________ like this?"
  13. Jesse in WI

    bulk tank

    A neighbor does industrial sandblasting and painting so I had him do it this spring when we converted from gravity feed to a pump. We talked about color much like this topic. I was thinking green but then he said he had some left over IH red so the conversation pretty much stopped there. Had him do black for the stand. Poured a little concrete pad and built a roof for it. I use a sulfur additive and Howie's anti-gel additive in the recommended ratio.
  14. Jesse in WI

    Tubeline wrappers

    This model is pretty bullet proof with only two areas of real concern to look closely at; the engine and the plastic stretcher rollers. The engine drives the hydraulic system which operates all of the moving parts (push bar, hoop rotation, tail up/down, etc.) and it should be pretty easy to tell the condition of the engine upon startup. There are little bearings and gears on each end of the stretcher rollers. Look for backlash or just general slop in the roller operation. If the rollers don't operate smoothly because of worn bearings or gears they have a tendency to tear the plastic. I would run the machine through a couple cycles to make sure all the limit switches and hydraulics are working properly. To do this you need to fire up the engine and let it warm up for a bit, then put the rotary switch on the control panel in "automatic" mode, then from the front of the machine reach in UNDER the push bar and push down the bale pan. This will start the push bar going forward. Then engine should then rev up and when the push bar gets about 6-12" forward it should trip the first limit switch and the hoop will start to rotate. The push bar will continue forward with the hoop rotating until it trips the second limit switch just below the control panel. When it hits this switch the hoop should stop and the push bar should return to the home position and the engine idles back down. Also anything newer than late '90s model should have come with a remote for steering while you are wrapping. Make sure it has this as it's really annoying to have to stop wrapping to adjust the steering. If you need any other information please feel free to ask. I've been operating a Tubeline 5500 for about the last 15 years. Jesse
  15. Jesse in WI

    656 gas leak

    Well the auto parts stores near me were less than willing to help my find a gas resistant washer to fit so 80 miles on the truck and 2 hours later I was back home with my $2.13 washer. Installed it yesterday and so far so good. Thanks for the help. Jesse