stronger800

Start it as you would normally, but keep your hand on the lever because about three seconds after it fires, maybe only two seconds, oil will fly out of the plug (I use the 5/8 headed plug) and squirt the rear axle. Maybe if you’re working on a nice concrete floor or blacktop driveway you should be concerned with it, but I have never been very concerned myself. I’m Talking mayyyybe 6 ounces of fluid, (that’s just a guess, way way less than half a quart anyway) but it will look like more, because you know how oil spills do that. Some guys have spoken about threading a hose into that port and routing the hose back into the dipstick fill hole or top link cover so that there is no oil lost, I guess that’s a good idea, as long as the hose and flop around and shoot at you, but it seems like an unnecessary expensed compared to how little of a mess the down and dirty fast method makes.

$7200 (delivered) would have been considered average, maybe even a tiny bit high, in ‘96, I think. good buy

Neighbor bought an aftermarket one.,..6….maybe 8 years ago, he thought it was very good. There’s got to be a lot of those doors out there though, since there’s only a few of us that don’t take those cabs off. doors off? Yes, but we put them back on when it gets cold!

Good find. That would be $800-900 around here. Easy.

Oops. I see know that you already have the hoses up to the fuel tank shield, and it looks like under the air cleaner. That could be correct on a 756.

Sorry I’m no help on that sensor wire (other than I’m pretty sure it doesn’t go in those clips, they are just to hold the hoods together). The trans cooler hoses come up off of the lines at the year, then go up to the holder that’s on the heat shield between the fuel tank and the valve cover, then they kinda droop back down toward the valve cover before going Over the air cleaner and through the cast radiator support. That’s how they are on an 856 anyway. Do you have hose holder looking brackets on that fuel tank shield or in the air cleaner? Nice work.

No favorites here. They all just get slightly different love and respect for the things they do slightly better than the others. Even if it’s just as simple as one has bigger tires or is set narrower than the other. Deeper snow or mud, you take the 14 on 20.8’ over the one on 18.4’s, etc. No names either, other than the “New 10” (newest to us….better than ten years ago….with 1500 hr) (making it the “newest” tractor hour wise actually) Practically new…76 style. Oh and we do have “The Maxwell”, third one of the same name, as Maxxum was read off the hood by a guy that worked for us for a long time that had a slight bit of difficulty with reading comprehension.

Very cool. Nice. I’ve never painted Gold. I think I would need eye glasses first. I bet that’s tricky.

Those solenoids are about $75 now. I’d test it, see if it works. then just unplug it all as stated above. Or, if you wanted solenoid powered accessories, Mount it like bitty said, and use it to feed things. Our 1066’s have cabs, and anything I power, I feed through that solenoid. Blue tooth radio. Baler controllers etc

He forget where he had previously buried a Big hole?

Dealer had 5 in stock, he ordered me 5 more. I don’t believe there is any way to tighten them…..but I didn’t look to close. Inner race appears to be one with the stub shaft, per the parts diagram anyway. The larger models did use a tapered roller bearing that I’d think could be tightened.

You guys have seen my pictures of the old equipment that my father and I work with. Everything is full of calcium, all of the rims are original. If you see a core leaking, you replace it. That was not really a thing years ago, but in recent years newer tubes, even the natural rubber quality fire stone ones the cores are not the best and we have had them start the leak in as little is three or four years. They are easy to replace and to keep an eye on. We have had them leak with washer fluid filled Tires in the past as well. New tires on the ‘67 806 a few years ago. Original paint still beautiful on the inside of the rims.

That would be a retro conversion nobody’s ever done before, right?

Ran about 125’ of wire to put an outlet right beside the loader tractor, instead of 25’ away from it. Wire probably would have rolled out and stapled nicer if it was not 28°. Then I wanted an easy indoor job, so I talked to my father into moving this old hay rake out of the barn and into the shop. it’s about 45 years old and some of the bearings on the end of the bars had some play in them. Non-greaseable, as old as I am, and (most) of them still had decent grease inside. We rarely use the bar rakes anymore , but they need to be ready either way.

I sold two just before Christmas, during that week that we had snow. We’ve had none since. -0- miles here.