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About Mike56073

  • Birthday 08/11/1972

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  • Gender
  • Location
    New Ulm, MN
  • Interests
    International 504 utility, 656,686,966,5288,5488MFD,1440 combine, Alliswd45(2).

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  1. That’s a valve for the filter housing, but it shouldn’t be loose and it shouldn’t be bent like that. I hate to say this, but you’re going to have to drain the whole thing.
  2. Do you have a part number for that tank? Also, did you change the radiator cap?
  3. Yep there’s a small panel on the left side that comes off. Take the left bearing flange bolts loose. Loosen up the right side bearing and sprocket, and the the auger will screw it’s way out the left side.
  4. This is awesome. Mike, thanks for getting this going!!
  5. Are you talking about a mechanical type noise, or does it sound like the hydraulics are “burping” air once in a while?
  6. Got them from my CaseIH dealer.
  7. I just put all new ones this year on my 183 cultivator. They’re still available
  8. Hy Capacity makes a gasket kit with o rings for about $50
  9. Do what I did, I put a speed app on the phone, took the tractor on a road and started adjusting until the dash matched the phone. Then you won’t have to go WAY over to the toolbox for a tape measure ??
  10. I would invest in a cooling system pressure tester. I think I got mine for $100 or less, and use it more often than a guy would think.
  11. A few things...... First, your turbine housing is broke, you need a new turbo. Second, I might be wrong, but that new spacer looks like the wrong one. The ones in my 5288 and 5488 are twice as long as that one and dont have grooves in them, just shoulders for the seals to go against. Google 1252474C2, thats what you should have. You should be able to reuse the spacer once you get it out and remove the turbine house end. It that were mine I'd get a new eliminator too, judging from what the end looks like.
  12. That is the master cylinder for the wheels. There should be a couple of hoses going from that cylinder out to the lift wheels
  13. You need to remove the back fuel tank, then the hitch cover. The piston/cylinder comes out with the hitch cover. It’s not fun to do, but I’ve done worse jobs. I’d get a service manual before I tackled it. My tractor would lower the arms down in a few hours, and if I crap it off with an implement attached it would come down within 5 minutes. When I looked inside the top link cover opening, there was a steady trickle of oil coming from the piston seal.
  14. I would get the draft linkage back together, then I would take the top link cover off and see if the piston seal is blown. If it is you’ll see oil running out of the piston. Do the arms stay up in the air when the tractor is crap off or they drop within a few minutes?
  15. I know this sounds stupid, but are the flow adjusters turned to the “slow” position? Does the 3pt work?
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