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Mike56073

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About Mike56073

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/11/1972

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Ulm, MN
  • Interests
    International 504 utility, 656,686,966,5288,5488MFD,1440 combine, Alliswd45(2).

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    flier56073@yahoo.com

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  1. A few things...... First, your turbine housing is broke, you need a new turbo. Second, I might be wrong, but that new spacer looks like the wrong one. The ones in my 5288 and 5488 are twice as long as that one and dont have grooves in them, just shoulders for the seals to go against. Google 1252474C2, thats what you should have. You should be able to reuse the spacer once you get it out and remove the turbine house end. It that were mine I'd get a new eliminator too, judging from what the end looks like.
  2. That is the master cylinder for the wheels. There should be a couple of hoses going from that cylinder out to the lift wheels
  3. You need to remove the back fuel tank, then the hitch cover. The piston/cylinder comes out with the hitch cover. It’s not fun to do, but I’ve done worse jobs. I’d get a service manual before I tackled it. My tractor would lower the arms down in a few hours, and if I crap it off with an implement attached it would come down within 5 minutes. When I looked inside the top link cover opening, there was a steady trickle of oil coming from the piston seal.
  4. I would get the draft linkage back together, then I would take the top link cover off and see if the piston seal is blown. If it is you’ll see oil running out of the piston. Do the arms stay up in the air when the tractor is crap off or they drop within a few minutes?
  5. I know this sounds stupid, but are the flow adjusters turned to the “slow” position? Does the 3pt work?
  6. Hy-Capacity #8301167 is the kit for the shift collars and stub shaft.
  7. The OP hasn’t said what the asking price is yet I was just saying that’s what it would bring around here. It’s amazing I’ve looked at a lot of 5x88 series tractors on dealer lots. Most of them the interiors are shredded with an inch of mud on the floor, and they still want gold for them!!
  8. X2, and I’ve also seen the switches get corrosion inside themselves. It’s not difficult to take them apart to clean them
  9. I resealed the diff lock, and reassembled it with new snap rings and shimmed it using a couple of shims from McMaster Carr. I just didn’t like how the whole assembly had so much up/down play that it was hitting the inside of the cover(see photo). The right to fix it would’ve been to get a new diff lock housing but it’s NLA. Anyways now it only has about .005” slop in it with the shims, should last quite a few more years. Just an FYI type of thing in case someone else ever comes across this!
  10. Did the exact same thing last winter to my 966. Mine has a year a round cab. I ended up loosening the front cab mounts and tilting the whole cab up and back about 2 feet. Don’t know if yours is the same. I had to be careful and have some supports in place to be sure the cab didn’t go over center backwards.
  11. Around here that tractor will fetch 15K all day long, just as it sits
  12. Just out of curiosity how far off was it once it was warmed up?
  13. I was always told that the motor priority valve is #1. Whatever/however they are numbered, the one closest to the driver is the one I’m having issues with. I’ll double check the neutral adjustment, if that’s fine I’ll check the spool then. The good thing is that’s the valve on the very outside of the stack.
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