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About Mike56073

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/11/1972

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  • Gender
  • Location
    New Ulm, MN
  • Interests
    International 504 utility, 656,686,966,5288,5488MFWD,1440 combine, Alliswd45(2).

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  1. I’ve tried chasing threads on our 656 gasser too, and it always came loose. The only thing that worked for me was to weld a small tab with a hole onto the pipe, then lockwire it on.
  2. I’m surprised nobody had mentioned the fact that if makes a difference whether or not the the filter has 15w-40, vs 30 wt. oil in it.........
  3. I would try and get the plug out, weld a nut on it if you have to. There is a previous thread on here labeled “broken bolts” that has some good info. Any water in that housing will be at the very bottom, so if it was mine I’d try my best to get the plug out. As far as the filter goes, personally I’d prefer an OEM one. Just my 2 cents
  4. It always amazes me when I open up our 56/66 series tractors behind the dash. Some stuff was really never engineered well in terms of wiring placement. I always thought about that when I had something hooked up to something that vibrates, like a stalk chopper.
  5. That’s very good to know, thanks Danny
  6. No he’s talking about the neutral safety switch under the seat. Some of the 5x88 series tractors were updated to this, mine included. The original clutch saftey switch is now just a sentry reset switch, it has nothing to do with starting. A micrswitch was installed on the range shift linkage that crosses under the floor. It’s adjusted so that the tractor will only crank over with the range lever in neutral. Basically as long as it’s in neutral it’ll crank over regardless of the clutch position. Maybe someone else will have an official adjustment procedure, but I basically played with mine until I was happy with the adjustment. The hardest part is pulling up the floor pan.
  7. Just to clarify, you jumpered across the switch and the lights still don’t work?
  8. Be sure that the little plastic piece that acts as a lever lockout is out of the way, I don’t know if your familiar with those or not...... Also, once you get it working, that black lever should have a little metal tab that flips over to keep the lever forward. The metal tab is bolted onto the trim piece for the hydraulic levers
  9. I’ve used both stick and mig welders on broken bolts, and I seem to have better luck with the mig. The key is to use a lot of heat, you want it to radiate down into the broken part to loosen it up.
  10. Mike56073

    Making Gaskets

    I don’t have the answer to your question, but one of the best investments I made was to buy a hole punch set, for punching out the bolt holes.
  11. Do you have any before pictures??
  12. Looks beautiful,Mike, nice job as always!! I saw your YouTube video with this one in it, is it a factory front end, or did they use another supplier?
  13. I got the 180 one in, it’s a CaseIH one. The radiator is super clean. Running in Med 4 at full throttle. The temp sending unit was new when I rebuilt it. The only thing I haven’t done is swap the gauges from the other tractor to see if the gauge just reads high. That and I will double check my belt tension.
  14. We started a little fieldwork yesterday, I had the 5488 hooked up to a 30 foot 4800 vibrashank going 6.2 MPH at 4.5 inches deep. My EGT was usually around 1100-1130, and the coolant temp was in the "hot half" of the green. The tractor sounded like it was hardly working. Also, going down the road at 18 MPH the EGT is usually 850-900. I'm just comparing these numbers to our 5288 which going down the road is usually around 700, and working is about 1000. Am I being worried for nothing, or is there something a little off? I have the inline pump which i believe i set at 24 degrees, and the pump is turned up an additional 41HP. 3LM turbo with muffler delete.(no I'm not switching turbos, either).
  15. That is really really cool! What’s he pulling??
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