brahamfireman

I've had numerous people complain about there stove just eats wood, all they do is fill the stove.....then they discovered that by not splitting it, it doesn't go poof gone in the stove, I bet you'd be amazed how low my chimney temps are, when your chimney is one foot tall you can keep them low. It burns much slower if it's not seasoned, that's the point of having boiler with a forced draft. The wood on top of the pile in the stove sizzles for an hour or so then its dried out. I don't a 700 degree fire, just enough to keep the water 185. I half fill out outdoor stove once in the AM, once after work. Heats a huge old farmhouse and there new 28x35 garage. But, if you dont have a draft fan on your stove, then yes I agree, it's got to be split. I've tried that, don't work.

Why do all you guys that burn wood split it????? Doesn't your stove have a forced draft? I literally drive to the woods, cut down what was a live box alder, use skid loader to drag it to the stove. Cut it up and throw it in. No splitting EVER....If I can get it in the door it goes in, some pieces are 2' by 2', that's work but they burn for 24 hours. Neighbor guy and I can cut and haul enough wood to heat 2 houses for 3 weeks, in ONE day after his morning chores. I'll burn nothing but box alder, he likes the dead elm and will only split what doesn't fit in the stove door. We cut wood first week of october, won't be out again till December, I'll take a bunch of pics and do a write up on our sweet, lazy man system.

You can't hold your hand on anything over about 145, so unless its boiling water off it, using your isn't the greatest way to check. It's possible what you think is float is really deadheading the system and causing excess heat.

I was wondering the same thing. How fast do you run your rotor?

Watching the rest of the show, I noticed the 1206 #13505 had the HD rear axle extensions. Never seen that before, only reason I knew what it was, was from an old thread on here.

7488 was said to be 12th one built. Reserve lifted at $115,000 and it sold.

Usually had smaller rubber on back, and shorter knees on front axle, so yes by a few inches.

Can you send me a pic of the elevated leveling auger? I'd like to see how that works.

Do the 1460 rice machines have the 466? What else is different about them? I assume still smaller rotor and 4 auger grain bed?

how big of a loader do you have? can pull sheet metal and lift hydro assembly up and out once loose. once hydro is out think the rest can be done from the top, That sucks big time.

head cylinders are single acting so dropping head just connects them to reservoir. Possible there, s too much flow through valve stack and it can't open valve?

For the most part yes, but there is a flow adjustment valve on the back that the fords dont have.

Anyone that says to use ATF immediately loses all credibility with me. Let's think about this, diesel fuel has minimum lubrication standards it must meet, sulfur or no sulfur, so anyone that says diesel has no lubricity in it, does know what there talking about and is just repeating poor info. ATF is designed for use in transmission that are basically a powershift like any tractor, if someone told you to put Hytran in your fuel you'd look at them funny, plus it's got crazy high amounts of zinc in it, you really want that in your fuel system? ATF is about $7 a quart. Power service fuel treatment is $8 a quart, and treats 300 gallons, talk about stepping over a dollar for a dime.... FWIW, I think you had bad luck, I've owned diesel trucks for 17 years, we've had diesel tractors on the farm since the 80's. Never used additives, only put one pump on a wore out 806.

Other than row cleaners, and maybe a spiked closing disc, nothing else is needed to make an IH planter no till. I did 30 acres of no till beans into standing sod this spring. You'll need a PTO pump if your going to run it on anything that has closed center hydraulics. The fan doesn't use alot of oil, but you'll have no way to regulate it.

Mine will spit oil out the trans breather going 17.