snoshoe
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Purpose of resistor is so that alternator still works if bulb burns out. Not essential. Have seen small bulbs cause you to have to rev engine to get alternator started. Not a problem with 1895 bulb. May or may not be a problem with an led. Have seen resistors from 10-25 ohms work. The ignition ballast resistor from the gas tractors should work.
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A modest amount of heat from propane torch applied to aluminum right over threads does wonders.
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I'm afraid my explanation was too simplistic and based more on the si. The DN lacks self excitation. You're going to need the R terminal to make the light work. Those alternators are not that hard to work on. All screws no soldering. If you have no source of parts. It's not that hard to go inside and attach a pigtail to the rectifier and feed it out the case.
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Hot terminal of fuel gauge is a good source of keyed power.
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Lights are not grounded. Unplug wires from light. Whichever one does not have power now is the ground wire and is not connected to ground. Not sure on this model. On most of my older ones. This is at front casting mounting bolt on right side.
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The simplest explanation is voltage is supplied by key switch through bulb to ground. Light bulb is lit. Alternator starts charging sends voltage from R terminal which meets voltage from bulb so no flow. Bulb goes out. It is more complicated than that as a relay is involved and R terminal voltage is half wave rectified so only 6-7 volts.
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Well yes and no. It should point to the cylinder. So given the choices the answer would be up but due to the angles involved. It is actually still down only more across the cylinder. I stated it correctly before it has been rotated clockwise. You need to rotate counter clockwise 1/4 turn to correct. I realize it's a digital world but you must have seen an analog clock somewhere. ⏰
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The plug under the steering relief valve points straight down. Stick a clean bucket under it. No hose needed and oil can be returned to tractor if desired. Only down side. If you forget to pull relief. You will have to fish it out of bucket. All of these methods work.
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The precup pictured is 90 degrees clockwise from correct. If you get them out the word up is stamped in the side. Always figured they were some kind of steel. There is a puller that forces three points into the inside to pull. Leaves a raised edge dimple like a prick punch.
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Look more like oscillation stops to me. Presumably to slow it down going over sideways.
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Just a tired nut turner who spends to much time thinking why.
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Since this lives outside my first guess is water turned to ice. Crack bottom drain plug to check. Second would be lost it's prime. Any one of three plugs will correct that. Letting it run with light on will only hasten pumps demise. You can type three responses to my one. I have to keep correcting the auto correct (I'm just slow).
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To answer the question. The light should go out as soon as you take your foot off of the clutch after starting.
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Pounds/feet is just as wrong as foot/pounds. Supposedly the correct term would be pounds/foot as you are measuring force on a one foot lever. As long as it is written ft/lbs I will know how to set my torque wrench.
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But my stupid phone will fill in the blanks and make it total gibberish anyway.
