snoshoe

Know nothing of the machine but have had cable pinched on spool and as you let it out. At that spot it wraps backup the other direction. Happens when pulling heavy load on loose wound spool.

I would be pulling cylinder off to see if a ring was stuck but that's just me.

Pretty sure it's just a T and the number every ten degrees. A mark for each degree. Aftermarket flywheel may be different.

I am slow to reply because there are things I just don't remember. With pto input removed ta input can pull out. Coupler is usually tight on shaft and will come with shaft. Occasionally it will be loose. Careful not to drop in center of housing. Slidehammer puller should pull race. If replacing any way a cold bead of weld on inside face of race makes it easy. The seal is the foggy part. If the bore is straight through. You can pull it out and with suitable driver install new one. If there is a shoulder. It will have to be driven in and taken out the top. Have to fashion a puller from plates threaded rod to pull new one in. I really think the bore is straight because I can not remember setting up a puller for this. I do remember welding a bead and reaching in with a hooked bar and yanking the bearing by hand.

Low pedal was just low. Hand clutch for direct drive or high.

When the rockers are rocking on 1 or 6 those marks should be right under that window.

I guess correct answer is it was built 6 volt positive ground. What it is now is whatever somebody made it. It can be what ever you make it. With the alternator the battery cables will spark if you try to hook them up backwards. With battery ignition the terminal going to distributor should be marked same as ground. If marked bat- dist then you just don't know. If equipped with a mag. It makes no difference. They make their own electricity. Ammeter may read backwards. Simply a matter of switching posts with the wires.

Just try the cables on the battery one at a time. See which cable fits each post. Will tell you which way it was hooked up last.

I'm sure that worked very well. I could have covered proper use of the commercial pins but I wasn't going to write a whole page.

.I could write a page on this subject. Not going to. Life is to short. Two things I noticed hydro didn't touch on. This design started with the 06's. Original pin was a groove pin. Grooves flattened out with heavy handed shifting. The second was the original fix. A roll pin with 14 gauge wire through it wrapped around coupler and ends twisted together. Most of these fixes I consider stopgap. Keep you going until it gets worse. Anything that doesn't take the wiggle out will get worse. The commercial tapered pins are to much taper. Can't get more than one side tight. I like double roll pins. It is a hassle to find two pins that fit together right. I will not drill. Pin or bolt through a shaft is usually 1/3 the diameter of the shaft. In this case 1/4". The theory is 1/4" on each side of pin. The fallacy is the pin is 1/4 all the way through. The shaft is 1/4 only in the center. Where it meets the pin it is actually nothing. Enlarging the hole also moves the edge of the hole back so there is less width. Not saying it hasn't been done and worked. I won't do it. I have seen the failures. I use regular cold roll. Soft enough to expand like rivet to fill the ovality. The coupler is 1-1/4". I make the pin 1-1/2". That allows for some variance in the amount of wear and if tight allows some beat down or mushrooming.

One other thing I learned a long time ago. Take a torch and burn some of the resin out of the surface of those new linings. Caution to hot and the bond will let loose. Otherwise greatly increases stopping power. Will need to be repeated as surface wears away.

Didn't have a lathe when I moved to other store. Made them in a drill press with a cutter in the drill press vise. Grind a sharp corner on an old file. Makes a good cutter.

A solid tapered pin. Chuck a 5/16 rod in a lathe. Leave an inch and a half stick out. Turn it down to .250 at the chuck. Because of deflection the outer end will measure .258.. cut off and drive in with an air hammer. A hammer and punch will only bend it. Fixed over 90% of the ones I worked on. On three occasions I had to make the pin .oo5 bigger.

My analysis says lockup clutch is driving until speeds match and then sprag probably latches. Continued use will soon burn up the lockup clutches. Not that it matters. Replacement will include both.

Shows my age. I immediately thought Doncaster. Either case brake piston orings are probably leaking.