snoshoe

They did make it bigger. A whole five thousandths bigger. It used to fit loose and would drift out one side of spool. Supported on just one end the pin would break quickly. The five thou made it tight in spool but still loose in bottom rod. The left hand cab lever did more than anything else to prolong the life of that pin.

Just keep refilling full with coolant. The diesel will be pushed out the overflow.

There are two check valves in the transfer pump that make the primer work. If seal on plunger is not leaking it's probably one of the checks leaking.

Odorless mineral spirits. stoddard solvent. Same thing. Some times called odorless paint thinner.

Fuel pressure for RD pump

I get the impression that the "clutch" is just the disc. How deep is the flyweel worn? The pressure plate? The pressure plate springs. Also if equiped with TA is TA slipping instead of clutch?

I suppose she could lift the snowblower too or did you just drag it?🙂

That is an IH oem seal. Sadly nla. Crankshaft for those was smooth. Felt seal cranks had spiral groove. I think retainers were different too. Not sure on that. Some people report they are getting by useing the felt seals in those any way.

I can only repeat what I've already said. If it won't come out by hand. Go ahead and pry it out. Discover there is no seal but now you need a new retainer because yours is all bent. I don't know when they made that change but I think it had something to do with the change in the hitch pump suction seal. You had to remove that retainer to install suction tube after pump installation.

Well you got me there. There was a change but I don't remember when. If you can't pull it by hand it would be press fit and no gasket.

It comes out but not with two fingers. It's a press fit. Unless there is a reason do not remove it.

I usually found the notch that the roller drops into worn and roller dropping to deep. Grinding side of notch to provide ramp for roller usually fixed it. Over do it and it won't hold spool down in dd.

The sprag has already caught and is not moving. The direct drive clutch is what is engaging stopping motion. Yes it puts a load on the sprag or overrunning clutch but which is being abused more? As far as shutting off. Shifting under load puts far more load on the sprag than the rollback of a dying engine. Use your TAs one side or the other will eventually wear out regardless of what you do. You might as well get some good out of it.

By googling "d310 thermostat" I came across a link to thread on this forum of a guy who took his canister apart. Removed old thermostat and installed new one. Then soldered canister back together. I don't seem to be able to create links any better than I can use the parts site. The thread was dated january 2015 and does not indicate if bypass remained functional or not. It appears late 756, late 715 as well as the h86 and 686 would have had the later style manifold.

Can't answer your question. I had as much luck finding engines today on the part site as I did bottoms a couple days ago. I do not know if the 358 manifolds fit. I only mentioned them as I think they would be more plentiful than 310's with the later manifold. The fault with your alternate plan lies with the bypass. It needs to be open when thermostat is closed and closed when thermostat is open. A thermostat in hose will not acomplish that.