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snoshoe

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  1. 1/3-1/2 open on both of them. Metering will be wide open at cranking. Governor will be fast enough to keep it running once it starts without over reving. More important on the german is shutoff position. Depending on pump there maybe a cold start position. Lever just touching spring loaded stop.
  2. snoshoe

    1940 td6

    For timing there should be two marks on front pulley about 3/4" apart. Impulse should trip just as last mark passes under pointer. If shutters don't close. No air will pass through carb to pick up fuel. As North said there are a number of possibilities. These were your present concerns.
  3. I sent link to this thread to daughter. Two word response. Wow!! Awesome!! Is this going to plant or just display? Do you have a digger to go with it?
  4. You are correct. It is prolonged high speed operation with C4 clutch engaged that is problem. It spins the planets at extremely high speeds. C4 is the very front clutch that engages in reverse and also when clutch pedal is completely depressed as a transmission brake.
  5. You are correct. It is prolonged high speed operation with C4 clutch engaged that is problem. It spins the planets at extremely high speeds. C4 is the very front clutch that engages in reverse and also when clutch pedal is completely depressed as a transmission brake.
  6. Yes and include the 70 series. Backing up to blower or mill and running pto stationary with powershift in reverse will guarantee failure.
  7. I believe you have two separate problems. Check oil level and filter condition first. Then we go from there with more questions.
  8. That is correct. The two outer ones are longer than the rest of the pan bolts. The center stud is fastened to rear main filler plate.
  9. Is that cool or what? It appears that it automaticly senses an empty bucket and trips a replacement from carousel on top. Cast wheels instead of steel. Plus lack of seat. Indicate to me that it is european. I also suspect that it is newer than any #3.
  10. Seems to me that with that logo. It would have been made in the same time frame as the #3. Next question. Was it a Euro model?
  11. Blows my theory out of the water.
  12. There is another option. There is a shop here that pins cracks with hook threaded screws. I had a jd head done. Sil had an m head done. Mine was $130 his $150. Mine was 6 years ago. I have pulled it for all its worth. The m don't get used as much. No problems with either one. Price depends on crack.
  13. Thanks for the pictures. My guess is it's a #1 that has been repainted. It is not a picker style. I still don't know what housing at top is for. For sure it is a unique piece of equipment.
  14. Some of the questions. Is it a picker style planter? How does it function? Is that a fertilizer attachment in front of hopper or seed chute? Pictures of inside of hopper and of mechanisims?
  15. I have more questions than answers and would be very interested in anything you learn. My daughter has a #3 one row planter that was built from 1926-1949. A #4 was the 2 row. They were replaced by a two row and there was no one row. A person could assume that a model #1 and #2 existed before the #3 and #4 but I have found no evidence of them. If they did exist they would predate the paint and decal on yours. I'm courious if there are any IHC monagrams on any of the castings. I didn't say. That is not a number three.
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