snoshoe

In my own personal opinion you don't have a prayer without machining both block and head and setting new sleeves to proper stand proud. As to a sleeve press. 80-90 percent of those engines were overhauled with a press plate and a three pound hammer.

Nothing new. Melroe's 600E had a cord reel on the back.

About the three point levers. Read mrfreds post again the friction assembly he's talking about is where it's tight. Actual valve is inside housing.

Is pedal mounted to cab? If so suspect poor cab ground.

Well are you going to give up? Are you going to check transfer pressure? You might ask him if he pulled delivery valve. Any fuel at lines at all?

Is the original problem cured? Did you try leaving side cover loose? Have you checked for transfer pump pressure? Did either of you inspect the delivery valve?

Please be advised. It has been years since I had my fingers in one of these. Again I say IF this is the switch you have. Then the diagram posted should be correct. At least for the flashing lights. The way I remember it. Turning light switch to hazard sends power to signal switch which powers all four lights through flasher in switch. Moving turn signal lever. Lights on one side stay lit as other side continues to flash. You have all four lights lit therefor wires and bulbs good. Flasher bad. Replace switch.

I think you're thinking to much. If your switch looks like the one pictured. Then that is your only flasher. If your switch is different. Then you will have two separate flashers. One for hazard and one for turn. As for yours being UK built. To the best of my knowledge they all were. It depends what market they were built for. If you have the all in one switch. Replace it. Pretty common problem.

Not guilty

Field adjustment of fuel shutoff requires a spare nozzle. Trying to do it just by removing an injection line or cracking a bleed screw will be misleading. Action of delivery valves will make it appear it is pumping fuel when it is not. First with lever in full shut off. Adjust shut off stop screw to 1/32-3/32 clearance to housing. Next remove one injection line and connect to spare nozzle. Start on gasoline. Turn nut on end of control rack 1/4 turn at a time until fuel just stops. Then 1-1/2 turns in same direction for positive shut off. Do not run more than 10 minutes on gas.

Thought 6th would be 3rd low direct or don't you have ta

Just makes a mess is all

On key switch acc will be connected to alt no 1 terminal and as power to fuel gauge. Ign will be connected to resistor not coil. Bat to ammeter -. Otherwise as shown. Starter- R terminal will connect to coil + either at coil or coil side of resistor. No wire from push button. S term to key switch S. Battery terminal to ammeter plus. No key feed. Coil. Red from key switch to go where black from push button is shown. Remove push button wire. Wire from R terminal of starter to either end of black wire between coil + and resistor Fuel gauge. Use wire from key switch acc where it says black from push button. Remove push button wire. Ammeter. Plus terminal will have power feed from battery terminal of starter. - terminal will have bat wire from alt . Bat wire to key switch. Power feed to light switch. (Green wire with fuse) Push button and regulator not used so no wires. I passed over the light switch. Frankly other than the green feed. I can't remember the colors. Somebody will correct if I'm wrong but TL is tail light or red light and RL is rear light or white light.

Those are insulators not friction. We always used an epoxy. Seemed to work well.

Starter pos to ammeter pos. Ammeter neg to alt pos. Alt no 1 to key switch accessory. Alt no2 to alt pos (bat) No LED needed.