snoshoe

A comprehensive kit should have one but probably would have orifice. Should affect idle only (hard to adjust smooth idle). If orifice delete is correct for your engine. A little solder would solve your problem.

#19 to be orifice delete would be fire crater pistons definitely gas only. They are normally pressed flush. A hole sheet metal screw and slide hammer remove them. A Carter carb service kit contains a slide hammer with tapered buttress threads for jet pulling. MacAR answered the venturi question while I was occupied.

Number 19 is pressed in. Never had a slot. Depending on piston kit would not have a hole. #20 is idle fuel jet. Did have a slot at top orifice just under slot. If not broken off flush can be turned out with pliers. #28 is main jet.

Unless that #1 wire passes to close to a sparkplug wire this is not a wiring problem. High voltage from welding, a booster charger, being struck by lightning or tangling with an electric fence could contribute I suppose. Listed with decreasing likelihood. Still points to poor quality components.

Well that's the way we did it when they were new. I was going to say they were hard to find now. Pictures posted above say they are available. Would be interested in how close a pipe plug fits that hole. If all it took was threading and grinding that is what I would do. On the other hand I have complete faith in Jimb2. Yes you have hose and cap backwards from the way I read it.

Don't know what Hydro had in mind but that is what I was thinking. Not having done it I don't know how feasible it is. Need to thread it to get as much thread contact as possible without restricting the beyond passage. Use a square or hex socket head plug and grind off anything that sticks out after installation. Again not knowing how sizes will match up. If plug encroaches on oring bore. It would need to be milled down to allow oring.

It's the hole next to the plug that needs plugging. A plug between ports would high pressure the system and no power beyond. I can't identify circuitry from those photos. I was expecting loader valve in series with steel line that comes across back under tank. Thinking that was supply from mcv. How ever I trust Jim to know what he is doing.

You don't say but I get the idea that you removed pump without shaft. In which case you might want to check crankcase for fuel dilution. You mention dot on gear but not on end of shaft or in head. Of course those are not visible if shaft removed with pump. Pump timing marks are behind two screw plate on side of pump. Be sure return line on top of pump is open to tank. Using ether on that engine is not recommended and would not be allowed on one I owned. Problem seems to be that pump is not bled. Gravity bleeding primary filter first then secondary then the hose to pump. With all six injection lines loose it doesn't take long to get fuel at all six injectors. You can crank with starter but I quite often remove the three bolts from timing gear and turn pump with ratchet until all six lines pump solid fuel. Tighten the lines heat the glow plugs and engine is running in two revolutions. Don't overlook the return line. Oops I missed a couple steps. After tightening lines continue turning pump until you hear or feel each injector work then line up pump marks and install the three bolts.

Don't discount the Chrysler connection. In my early days I observed a Chrysler 70 that had the short water jacket. Distributor position is correct also. Sadly cannot remember much else.

Yes you have to unhook that line.

Hitch pump is the piggy. Just unbolt from main pump. Have to install blanking plate to close off suction port or main pump will draw air. The main pump supplies 12 gpm to flow divider. First 3 gpm goes to steering. The rest goes to auxiliaries. Return from steering goes to oil cooler. Return from cooler goes to lube. Hitch pump flow goes to unloading valve. If not used by Hitch joins flow from main pump for auxiliaries. Return from auxiliaries is that recirculation line. Can it be removed from top link cover? Never tried. Would think it would be difficult but maybe.

I assume you are removing the hitch pump. You can remove that recirculation line but you must remove the steel part that slips into the big suction tube or it will pull air.

Says he has 19.7 at #2. That should verify good connections to that point. I have several with voltmeter. No resistor or light in #1 wire. Voltage in number 1 can do nothing unless regulator let's it. Regulator is on ground side of rotor. Information we have says problem is in alternator. Most likely regulator.

Until proven wrong I am going to say that is entire 3 gpm steering return flow. Also diff lube once it enters rear cover.

A check online finds regulators from $6.50-$27. Set point when found is 14.7-14.8. To high in my opinion.