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snoshoe

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  1. Hardened steel pin should be a press fit in that hole. It is loose. That is why it broke. Get a different fork.
  2. If getting new fork get new shaft with the two wire clips also. Shaft comes out rear through top link cover. Arm extension probably needed. Short piece of 3/4" pipe usually works
  3. There is a milled surface just to rear of oil filter base. If it is blank. That would be a replacement block. Note; I said base. I think you're looking to high and not small enough.
  4. 372544R5 is a part number. 5 19 S would be a casting date code. I know of no G263. My guess is somebody substituted G for gas instead of C for carbureted.
  5. Engine model and serial# are stamped just to rear of oil filter base unless block has been replaced.
  6. Google it. Several sources. Prices $10 and up.
  7. My money says they don't grow.
  8. Pakes in Janesville 10-12 years ago. Pinned installed exhaust seats and planed manifold surface for $140. 3-4 years ago sil had an M head pinned. Still $140. Hauling a tractor to plowday at Belleville must cost you something like that.
  9. Must be open. Also return flow from cylinders controlled by that valve. I have to assume that t lines going to original control valve are to a tank return port and that the rest of the lines to that valve are as original.
  10. Fuel screw is under the cover with the warning on it and you have been warned.
  11. Can not work as drawn. A closed center valve on an open center system requires an unloading valve to function. I also see only one return to tank. This doesn't work either. Need an explanation of the multiple p and t markings. P is usually pump supply. T usually signifies tank or return. On the closed center valve T port the power beyond sleeve makes that pump supply to the tractor block. The T port that is plugged I would assume gets connected to tank. That should be relief valve exhaust and cylinder return from that block. There should be no changes to existing tractor hydraulics except routing pump output through the added valve first. Then power beyond to where the pump used to supply the original block.
  12. They're not hurting anything yet but a half dozen hook threaded screws would stop those cracks.
  13. And then back off 1/2 flat or 1/12 turn. Have no idea how loader is plumbed. If connected to tractor valves. Simply roll bucket all the way back and hold lever there. Will it steer now? If loader runs off of a separate front pump that would tell you nothing. If you have auxiliary valves. Pull one back and hold on. Will it steer? Simply mean that valve assembly in the middle of the column is supposedly sealed top and bottom by I believe 6 orings. By switching out the regulator block for a non power steering version would gain you 3gpm for the auxiliaries. Otherwise just connect supply and return lines together would do it. Removing the rack from the steering gear would reduce effort. I see steering supply and return lines have been replaced by hoses. Is it possible they could be reversed?
  14. Well by now we are all wishing you had purchased an aftermarket hydrostatic steering kit in the beginning. Probably more money than the tractor was. I think most of my thoughts have already been expressed. Leakage has to be coming through the valve to get to that plug. Not enough valve movement would explain the lack of assist and directional differences. Have we ascertained that we have sufficient pressure to begin with? Will it steer with an auxiliary on pressure?
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