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About MacAR

  • Birthday 12/01/1990

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  • Location
    Arkansas Ozarks
  • Interests
    All things IH

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  1. Happy birthday Gary! Hope you enjoyed it. Mac
  2. I keep my 300 set as narrow as they'll go, much easier to steer. Kind of a pain to change the tire if you have to, as you have to finagle the ears over the hub. They'll also clog up with mud faster, but nothing a mud scraper won't take care of. Mac
  3. I can definitely say the vinegar worked. I brush hogged for the better part of two hours today and never could get the needle past the U on the gauge. But now, the bypass hose is weeping, and so is the valve cover gasket. And the fast hitch cylinder as started leaking too. Seems I canna catch a break! Ah well, at least I won't be in need of something to do. Mac
  4. Thought I'd update y'all. I went yesterday and bought 3 gallons of white vinegar. For $8, thought it would be worth a try. I clamped off the tad hoses and poured 2.5 gal in this morning before work, around 7:30. Let it work til 6:30 this evening. Came home, drained the radiator and refilled with the other half gallon of vinegar and 3.5 gal of water and unclamped the hoses. Ran for 5 minutes with a feed sack over the rad, then flushed with pure water with the draincock open. Drove tractor up and down hills wide open and at idle for 30 minutes, with the feed sack over the grille and I could never get the temperature gauge to go past the N in RUN. Going to drain and refill with antifreeze tomorrow afternoon, after retorquing the head and checking the valves again. Plan is to hook it to the brush hog Sunday and see how it gets on, but I'm cautiously optimistic. So for those of you curious, you evidently can clean a radiator out with vinegar! Mac
  5. I might do that, Seth. The cost of the rad flush and the vinegar is about the same if I'm honest. At this point, I don't have a lot to loose. Very true Dan, but I've never been one to be "correct" 😄. I really, really don't want to have to take the radiator off unless I absolutely have to. But if I do, I already have a local radiator shop lined up to clean it for me. I found that video very interesting. If I could rig a way to isolate the radiator, that might work out just fine. It still looks good, just cruddy inside. The initial rad flush treatment cleaned out an unbelievable amount of rust, but didn't touch the calcium/lime buildup. Probably so, Mike. If worse comes to worse, I'll take it down and have it rodded out. Good radiator shops, like good machine shops, are beginning to disappear. As in Cascade dishwasher detergent? How much should you use, and will it break the lime? Mac
  6. Just curious how you guys get the lime and calcium out of your tractor radiators. My 340 is still getting hot after having the head and valves done. Figured it was a blown headgasket at first but not the case. I flushed the radiator with a commercial flush from parts store and it removed a lot of rust and gunk, but I can see lime/calcium buildups in the top tank and tubes of the rad. A friend of mine recommended white vinegar, and another recommended CLR followed by baking soda to neutralize it. Worst case I'll have to have the rad rodded out but I'd really like to start putting the tractor back together and not take it apart further! Any advice is appreciated, figured I'd ask here before doing anything as you fellers have a lot more experience with this sort of thing than I do. Mac
  7. Yes there were. Matter of fact, the gin at Franklin is still there, though long closed down. Our gin closed in 1967, one year after my great grandfather planted his last cotton crop. It was a whopping 2.5 acres if I remember correctly, and he used horses to work it. I grow a couple rows in the garden yet, for the wife's spinning wheel projects. @Absent Minded Farmer, I meant to ask you, what do you aim to do with your Hickory King? We grew that some years ago but couldn't get the seed anymore so switched to Truckers Favorite White. The Hickory King made the very best cornmeal I remember. My wife's grandfather had a small gristmill and we would take our corn to him when I was a little boy. He'd grind it for a share of the meal. Her uncle still has the mill, but it hasn't been used in years. I've got a fairly middlin stand of corn this year, and I've about convinced her uncle to fire it up and grind us a bit of meal come fall. Mac
  8. Pumpkins or melons are usually planted at those longer distances. Will your planter hill drop? If so, I think that's what the 8 cell plates are for. The 16 cell plates are more for straight drilling if memory serves, though either plate can be used for either operation if you so desire. Mac
  9. Ok, this may not be helpful, but it might give you an idea. This is from my IH 184 planter manual: The 184 is press wheel driven, so that makes a bit of difference. Essentially, an 8 cell will plant twice the distance and 16 will. Mac
  10. I'd like to find the 1950, 55, and 59 catalogs. So far I've not had much luck. Mac
  11. That's where my gaskets came from. No help at all. I noticed the gasket was directional, will have to make sure not to cover up the marks. Any suggestions on setting valves? Mac
  12. Called the company, and asked but the so-called "tech" had no idea. I did make a mistake when I said the gasket was steel and fiber, it's actually steel/fiber/steel. So, going to give it a light coat of copper coat on each side and set it. As an update, last night I did some prep work. Cleaned and scraped the block surface, cleaned the oil and etc out of the bolt holes, cleaned up the valve cover, and cleaned up the head bolts. Interestingly enough, they are IH bolts (which Messick's lists as part #326-876 for $13.31 each) and seem to be in decent shape. Tonight, if I have time, I'm going to clean up the manifold and shoot it with a coat or two of high-temp paint. Not that it'll really help but it'll look nice for a bit. There is a possibility that my friend may not be able to help me on Sunday, so if anyone has any thoughts or tricks to putting the head back on and setting the valves, I'd appreciate them. Mac
  13. C221 is a straight drill planter, C222 is a power hill drop planter. I was just looking at that planter in the 1949 General Line Catalog at Wisc. Historical Society. Mac
  14. Thanks! I think I have an appropriate-size bottom tap in the drawer at home, will check this evening. Good idea about vacuuming out the holes, I hadn't thought of that. Since it seems to be going to rain all day today, I may do a bit of the prep work tonight. If I do, I'll post back with my progress. As to actually torqueing/re-torqueing a head, I've honestly never done it. I have a very good friend who is an excellent mechanic (builds chainsaws, repairs small engines, has a couple pulling tractors, etc.) who usually gives me a hand with this sort of stuff if he can. He's been pretty busy lately, so I may have to wing this one. I do have an I&T shop manual and an IH shop manual that I can consult if needed. I have some copper coat for the head gasket, but the gasket is the metal/fiber type. Would you coat it? What about the manifold and water neck gaskets? I replaced the manifold on the 300 several years ago and can't remember if I coated them or not. Mac
  15. Yea, that's about right Mike. But it's hard not to winge a bit... you know how it is. As to going to the dealer, I try to avoid them as much as I can. Last time I went into a dealer (Big Green), I got shafted big time. We have a nice little independent tractor/implement dealer here in town and they're very helpful when it comes to getting parts for all colors. They do a bit of machine work as well, but nothing large. Surface flywheels, turn a shaft, rebuild hydraulic cylinders, etc. I'll do that, thanks. This particular engine has bolts rather than studs but I assume the same conditions apply. Going to go pick up another gasket scraper today since mine has disappeared, and grab a can of brake cleaner or two. I need to clean up the manifold surface a bit also, and make sure no other parts have "walked off" since I started this project. Mac
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