Binderoid

I like to paint the bolt with never-seez about 1/2 the length of the bolt, because when the head gasket fails and lets water around a head bolt (6.9/7.3 PC motors), the bolt can rust and get seized in the head. Never heard of a waiting period between torque stages. In the days of asbestos head gaskets I suppose the waiting period manifested itself as re-torquing a warm engine, but with today's manufacture of head gaskets, you hardly ever hear of re-torquing anymore.

Dale, put that dipstick in a safe place. I had a heck of a time trying to find one of those about 15 years ago, for a '79 LNT9000.

I don't know what's inside of a 358, but if there are any oil feed bolts, like a Red Diamond 361 for example, They DO NOT get the same torque as the rest of the bolts. The 361 head bolts are 105 lb.feet, while the oil feed bolt gets 75 lb.feet.

When the sequence is unknown, start at the center of the head and work your way outward, in a circular pattern. I run a tap down all the holes to clean them, then I lube the threads with never-seez, or teflon pipe sealant if they thread into a water passage. I do two stages, the first at about 50% of maximum torque and the second at peak torque. Since the bolts are lubricated, I use the lower choice in the suggested torque range. If you're on the second time around, and you can't reach maximum torque after several pulls on your torque wrench, the bolt is stretching. Don't keep going until it snaps off , take it out and look at it . If I stretch 2 bolts, I declare the entire set scrap and order new bolts. To salvage the head gasket, do not unscrew them all at once. Replace them 1 at a time, and torque each one to 50 lb.feet until they are all replaced.

No, the wire has nothing to do with whether or not the post is grounded. If there is continuity to ground with compression release out, Check: linkage operating butterflies out of adjustment or defective, stuck butterfly shaft, broken butterfly shaft or grounding lever, or defective insulating pieces on grounding stud.

TD-24 in 1947

But Green Magazine says...

Well thanks for posting that cuz I called my friend a liar when he told me that in a grocery store in Lorain county.

If you want to see what's behind you while backing up, you look into those things on the outside of the doors with the shiny glass in them.

Your light working then not working is your light switch with dirty contacts or a faulty ground somewhere in your harness-- nothing to do with your polarity issue. Just a coincidental occurrence

If you are still looking for these pieces, post a picture out of a parts book. Am currently working at a guy's house for a couple days, who has a bunch of this stuff lying around.

I may be changing that distributor sooner than I anticipated.

I think a lien is a capital idea.

You need to take your pieces to a dealer and tell him what you have; they are probably the same as something more modern. The trick here is the dealer has to care enough to open a catalog made out of paper, if they haven't already thrown it out. You have to decide if all this extra hassle is worth the couple of bucks you'll save at the dealer vs. a bearing supply house. For the seal I think you are stuck with the dealer or Rice Equipment. Rice Equipment can get a better price on a bearing than you can, be best just to let Frank get everything.

This distributor also controlled the governor in the carburetor. Since I don't have a governor any more , I'm going top see if a GM unit will fit in there and try to get shed of that Holley and it's idiosyncrasies. Besides, those modules aren't going to be available forever.