Binderoid

Thrashing machine.

Took me a minute decipher that one too

I don't plan on putting the stuff into the bottom of the case.. ....nobody does. Wasn’t suggesting you were an animal behind the wheel... but that’s not a Cat 950.... that Allison has to be at a parade rest before changing directions. You’ll see what I mean when you get it running. When revving the engine with the brake applied (raising boom approaching a dump truck) , releasing the brake will result in a slam engagement if the engine is anywhere above idle. Same holds true for down shifting. Use the brakes to to come to a stop in second gear, then shift to first. Up shift with hammer down is ok. The two best things you can do for that trans is learn how to treat it right, and do not let anyone else use the machine.

I had been there a long time and I thought they were just like anyone else, but after the last week and a half watching them gang-bang this guy because he was building an H to burn kerosene, just to run once in a while; he was sticking to his guns and they just kept flogging him. If, somehow, this topic could be transplanted over there, with all those grammar school drop-outs, it would be roundly criticized, called the “English Police”, or simply taken as a personal affront. Really disappointed in that crew this time.

I was stuck on this for like 30 seconds; I thought you were doing a spoof of Hodaka. Then I read the rest of the post..duh

How about “gone thru”.... meaning exactly what?

Another feature of the Allison TT is its ability to deposit parts in the sump. Service brakes MUST BE USED when changing directions. The shock is absorbed 100% by the overrunning clutch, which controls which “range “ the converter is in. With a failed overrunning clutch, you have only the high side of the converter, because there is no way the low side turbine can transmit any power. Pull the suction strainer near the bottom of the transmission. If there’s a handful of pieces down there, that’s what used to be the overrunning clutch. Nothing in there, someone already cleaned it out or your clutch is ok (at least in one piece). Properly working, you should be able to spin all four wheels when you put the bucket against a bank of some sort. With a bad O. clutch, the machine is still useable, just doesn’t have any guts. It is a good powerful trans, just has that strange weak link built in.

Farm Show newspaper is 100% consistent in the use of “rpm’s”. Revolutions per minutes?

Anyone else double-checking their sentence structure for this particular topic?

Aha! So you’re the “ stick to the issues crowd “ he was always talking about!

Check the end play of PTO shaft . I don’t have any specs, but it can’t be very much. We have an M my dad bought in 1960, and as a kid I always remember it dropping out of gear. In the eighties I wanted to solve this problem. Apparently someone before us had the PTO out and lost the thrust washer, or it was never installed at the factory... but the correct washer was still available in the late 80’s , and when I put it back together, you couldn’t actually see the shaft move, but could feel the clearance when pulled back and forth. Stays engaged now. So my suggestion would be eliminating as much end play as possible; any axial movement can work the coupling out of engagement. If you are in the 1/16” range, possibly use a thinner gasket or eliminate it altogether (RTV). Any more more than that you probably have to add a thin washer to the existing thrust washer.

50 pounds of 5/32 anything is one **** of a lot of welding

What are shop rates nowadays? Based on the original price, that pencils out to $12500 in labor using genuine Cummins. I came up with $312 /hour.

8-10 horsepower vertical shaft Briggs is all you need... the mounting is universal. But remove the drive pulley first before you go engine hunting, make sure it doesn’t have some screwball crankshaft.

Removed by author