HydroTek

Bushing has a metal shell on the outside The tool fits the OD of the shell with a pilot to keep it centered -- the shell is thin and easily damaged with a poor fitting tool Most we done in the shop press because the press was handy -- but a ball joint tool (big C clamp) with the right bushings could also be used -- you need the pusher bushing and a sleeve to all ow the rubber bushing to fall into -- some of the arms are difficult to support Can also remove the rubber from the sleeve with a drill bit , by allowing the drill to walk around the inside of the sleeve -- this will eject the rubber part -- then use a die grinder to thin the sleeve and remove it -- or hacksaw to cut the sleeve , then slip it out Got the OTC tools for the combine -- but made custom tools for my brother and I since not all the adapters were in the otc kit for all of the models

Most are re-prints from copies PDF's are the same All depends on the copy quality from the original books

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I know you are accurate in the numbers -- was not implying that at all just getting at the numbers are not on the standard taper chart -- need to measure a pin or the reamer to figure if that is a standard taper or something from an engineers nightmare -- we had the OTC reamer at the shop , but I am not there now so no way to measure

with 16.9x30 tires , the fender top cleared the tires about 4 inches -- flat top fenders with your 18.4 the clearance would be some less -- maybe 2 inches yeah, bar axle means the rim will slide out the axle on a hub , rather than being bolted to an axle flange that is part of the axle

pop the springs off , then you can get the actuator to separate I never remove the linkage bolts stuff is in the brake disk -- you should be fine with a wire wheel on the housings will likely need to "square" that file tip and scrape the rust scale from the surfaces tho

Actual dimensions off the taper would be nice Pick a spot to measure the od then move 1" and measure again consult that chart I linked the M-2 sounds like a Morse number 2 taper but your numbers do not work out

Yup, and a straight front axle same fenders on both models

if the threads are in the middle hole one could use a threaded rod and a "cup" to go over the spring retainer x3 or make a cross bar and bridge just depends on how bad you want the finger off that pressure plate and if it is easier to just split the tractor

We were discussing that earlier -- need a taper pin and calipers/mics to get the taper figured out There are several "standard" tapers in that chart I linked the reamer is not expensive , but do need the correct taper

Yup, done many many of them like that -- just have to walk the pulley off "straight"

Top groove is also a different depth than the lower 2 The red oring was on some kits -- we got kits from IH, but also other places I dont remember which had the red oring in the early years with the oil consumption problems -- kits were in short supply I have seen 6 or 8 tractors down in our shop at one time , from either engine or rear end problems worked on them in the isle way or in the warehouse a few times Not the largest dealer around -- the tractors were just that popular in our area I am sure others have similar stories For the first couple of years when the '66 came out we were selling a bunch of them tires set, weights/fluid, washed / waxed -- Boss liked to run them on the dyno -- sometimes 2 or 3 a day between 2 of us "school kids" Common for the lower 2 orings to get "crunchy" usually a fail of the top ring can be seen in the block counter bore I have used JBweld in a pinch and it worked to smooth out pits

Top oring was red the bottom 2 were black Pretty sure the groove had a radius -- I have an old sleeve over at the other Farm will take a look if I remember Still need to get SnoShoe those resistor ohm values should be a box with several of those resistors

I would tack in place thru the inspection cover just be sure to ground onto the clutch finger -- so the power is not ran thru anything "important" gonna need a stick welder to reach up in there -- just a tack after all

I have never seen a chopper either usually guys are trying to get longer straw so it will stay in a bale for wheat straw corn and beans mostly around here and the spinners do a good job