HydroTek

Bushing has a metal shell on the outside The tool fits the OD of the shell with a pilot to keep it centered -- the shell is thin and easily damaged with a poor fitting tool Most we done in the shop press because the press was handy -- but a ball joint tool (big C clamp) with the right bushings could also be used -- you need the pusher bushing and a sleeve to all ow the rubber bushing to fall into -- some of the arms are difficult to support Can also remove the rubber from the sleeve with a drill bit , by allowing the drill to walk around the inside of the sleeve -- this will eject the rubber part -- then use a die grinder to thin the sleeve and remove it -- or hacksaw to cut the sleeve , then slip it out Got the OTC tools for the combine -- but made custom tools for my brother and I since not all the adapters were in the otc kit for all of the models

Most are re-prints from copies PDF's are the same All depends on the copy quality from the original books

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I know you are accurate in the numbers -- was not implying that at all just getting at the numbers are not on the standard taper chart -- need to measure a pin or the reamer to figure if that is a standard taper or something from an engineers nightmare -- we had the OTC reamer at the shop , but I am not there now so no way to measure

with 16.9x30 tires , the fender top cleared the tires about 4 inches -- flat top fenders with your 18.4 the clearance would be some less -- maybe 2 inches yeah, bar axle means the rim will slide out the axle on a hub , rather than being bolted to an axle flange that is part of the axle

pop the springs off , then you can get the actuator to separate I never remove the linkage bolts stuff is in the brake disk -- you should be fine with a wire wheel on the housings will likely need to "square" that file tip and scrape the rust scale from the surfaces tho

Actual dimensions off the taper would be nice Pick a spot to measure the od then move 1" and measure again consult that chart I linked the M-2 sounds like a Morse number 2 taper but your numbers do not work out

Yup, and a straight front axle same fenders on both models

if the threads are in the middle hole one could use a threaded rod and a "cup" to go over the spring retainer x3 or make a cross bar and bridge just depends on how bad you want the finger off that pressure plate and if it is easier to just split the tractor

We were discussing that earlier -- need a taper pin and calipers/mics to get the taper figured out There are several "standard" tapers in that chart I linked the reamer is not expensive , but do need the correct taper

Yup, done many many of them like that -- just have to walk the pulley off "straight"

Top groove is also a different depth than the lower 2 The red oring was on some kits -- we got kits from IH, but also other places I dont remember which had the red oring in the early years with the oil consumption problems -- kits were in short supply I have seen 6 or 8 tractors down in our shop at one time , from either engine or rear end problems worked on them in the isle way or in the warehouse a few times Not the largest dealer around -- the tractors were just that popular in our area I am sure others have similar stories For the first couple of years when the '66 came out we were selling a bunch of them tires set, weights/fluid, washed / waxed -- Boss liked to run them on the dyno -- sometimes 2 or 3 a day between 2 of us "school kids" Common for the lower 2 orings to get "crunchy" usually a fail of the top ring can be seen in the block counter bore I have used JBweld in a pinch and it worked to smooth out pits

Top oring was red the bottom 2 were black Pretty sure the groove had a radius -- I have an old sleeve over at the other Farm will take a look if I remember Still need to get SnoShoe those resistor ohm values should be a box with several of those resistors

I would tack in place thru the inspection cover just be sure to ground onto the clutch finger -- so the power is not ran thru anything "important" gonna need a stick welder to reach up in there -- just a tack after all

I have never seen a chopper either usually guys are trying to get longer straw so it will stay in a bale for wheat straw corn and beans mostly around here and the spinners do a good job

No bolt holes in that picture -- but can see the wussy chocks they are using under the fingers Some pressure plates used an "L" shaped metal under the end of the pins to hold them compressed -- others used a more substantial chock under the back of the arms that thin "chock" looks like it would bend , or bend the arm at the back side

I think try threading the button back in the arm first get the last bit of life out of that clutch 6 pad is fine unless you heavy till with that tractor

Morse taper #2 looks possibly -- common tooling Large Diameter , Distance , small Diameter and check the machinist taper chart will tell for sure cant use the numbers you posted , unless the length of the taper is known between the diameters that 7.75 may be over all length I dont see the taper per inch from your numbers anywhere on the charts Couple of reference links https://littlemachineshop.com/pages/dimensions-of-standard-tapers https://www.omnicalculator.com/construction/taper

Amazon has one for 28 bucks be good enough for a couple of holes You need to measure and determine what the taper is on the pin lathe and a dial indicator would be my choice but you can measure and check a chart

High pressure switch is 350 , should never run near that What was the low pressure gauge showing ? if there is a restriction in the quick coupler (or any where else) -- you will have a temperature change there -- is there one ? Here is where my thermal camera works well for showing any restrictions 1000rpm -- you feel good air flow thru the condenser how hot is the small line at the left step ? can you hold your hand on it ? -- large line should be cold and sweaty Vent temperature can be a problem from a leaking heater valve -- close the manual valve on the RH frame rail -- also the foam blocks in the top of the cab may be rotted/mouse ate out -- bypassing fan air

Generator = not the same regulator but is similar looking Not sure 10 is the correct ohms for the alternator resistor -- I should have a couple in my toolbox -- next time I get over to the garage will check would be the "red" resistor if the square type with screw terminals or the white if the flat type with spade terminals -- there was also a white square one that had solder terminals white square type with screw terminals was for the ignition coil

smack your hand to the left on the shifter and hold the pressure against the handle does the tractor start moving again ? FNR cable needs all the movement that the lever can give -- especially as the linkage wears

Yeah seen people make the adjustment in the wrong place several times Pedal to cylinder adjustment is set - zero to 1/16" slack Clutch free play is set thru the "window" on the booster cylinder bracket

I use graphite spray on the shiny parts have not seen tilcoat in few years Woolwax or Fluid Film on the main parts -- got a 5 gallon bucket of each and the sprayer

That tractor is pretty easy to get apart -- gonna roll the rear back from the front -- remove the front driveshaft first , if it has one -- you prolly need to look at the couplings anyways a couple of dowel bolts will help with alignment when going back together -- and a ratchet come along , so you dont have to wrestle things Make some decent stands with rollers for the rear , but front can be stationary -- just need adjustments on each leg of the stand , for tilt Friend of mine had a 'universal' set of stands using 6" steel wheels , extendable box tubing, and chains with turn buckles for height adjustment -- these worked pretty well in his mobile mechanic business Stands went at an angle in the roller wheels and used the chains to adjust -- would fit most any tractor -- and would break down to go in his van truck