HydroTek

Looks to me like a large hole in the sieve in that picture -- upper part of the picture also at least one row of fingers is missing Yeah and too closed off also too much ground cobs Settings are important to a clean crop and efficient operation that machine can do a great job if you set it

Worn linkage and "speed shifting" remove the floor plate and look under at the linkages also in the console , may get a bar in there to get the linkages back in line Usually the problem in the Hi Lo linkage did not get in neutral before you went into R

Gasser ?? Check the freeze plugs under the valve cover

Crank thrust bearing should control that

Maybe end play -- I was after vertical play

The setup papers that came with the loader is what you are after most of those went in the trash after the loaders were installed -- of if you have put a few on , the papers were not taken out of the plastic -- still hit the trash tho

Main bearings loose ? That is a lot of pulleys in a short time Remove the pulley and get a dial indicator on the shaft put a bolt back in so you can pry up and down on the shaft Would also be a good time to check shaft runout Have a 2188 here on the Farm that got a little warm during bean harvest but may still have some good parts on it

Same bolt pattern and same hole in the center ? you tell us Take a pic so we all can see

Put the alternator on a test stand and see what it puts out -- or rig it up so an electric motor can run it and test it your self would answer a lot of the questions

I suspect that the disk is not sitting flat to the metal surfaces -- tapering the edge of the disk is the fix Also the linkage on that tractor is a little odd -- need to be sure that the linkage is not the whole of the problem -- restricting pedal movement OP indicated that it was a rusty mess , like most of those are

so the pin fits tight in the hole usually the problem is only on the top pin in that coupler -- I suspect the shift rod is not as hard as the lower part of the shifter plenty of those that just have a hose clamp over the worn pin holding it in place also can just drill the hols out and use a spiral roll pin -- or double the pin by driving a smaller pin inside the first one

Glad to hear of your progress The pads need to sit on clean metal -- if there is rust coating the surface , the pads will not grip -- or grip poorly if the pads were too thick , then the brakes would be on all the time -- pretty sure this is not the case the expanding part will move out about 1/4" -- so should be plenty of movement you should get the feel of the brakes at about half way on the pedals -- feel the pedal get tight against the pads the strongest part of the actuator is at the beginning of it's movement if the metal parts are too worn and the actuator needs to move a lot then the force is weaker against the pads leaving the rubber boot out will allow you to see into the housing when the brakes are applied this is when the housing can be milled down some to overcome wear the caution is milling too much and binding the brakes when they are not applied be sure the linkages are able to move fully and pull on the actuator rod enough to make it expand

... or just get a number 6 taper pin drill the hole out to 5/16 to get rid of the egg

Maybe don't need all that extra effort Can you not just add length to the existing tube to make it longer ? use a hose to join the two tubes together -- will also add a vibration break because of the hose section

Will the tractor pull a load in Lo t/a ?

Diagrams for that valve are a little difficult to find -- but the implement hoses connect in line with whichever solenoid you want to use -- Number markings on the Fasse body -- #1 - #1 -- Etc. -- in the diagram I found that is vertically in line to the solenoid Only one solenoid should have power at a time -- the solenoid that you are wanting to have operation from Pressure from the tractor flows thru the Fasse just like it would if there was no Fasse installed You can operate both solenoids at one time , but the load with the least pressure requirement will move first -- the factory switch only allows one or the other solenoid at a time (double throw switch )

Are you connecting the hoses to the correct ports on that Fasse ? Are both solenoids getting power ? if you pop the Fasse valve off the tractor and use the tractor remote does the twine operate correctly ?

Alternator dictates 12 volt negative ground -- unless some monkey business

Don't use WD40 use Kriol, PB, or FreeAll wd40 is about useless as a penetrating oil

Get the Pioneer coupler update kit for the tractor remote valve - this will make the couplers more reliable So -- tips on the baler hoses , or the tips on the Fassie could be the problem -- you have tried the hoses in the other side of the Fassie How do you have the Fassie connected to the tractor ?

Flow control spring broken in the remote valve -- just thread the flow control out and pull the spool -- spring is behind

Nope -- the lower countershaft gear is in the way

I would think standard HF "mechanic" magnets would work fine < $60 sure wouldnt spend 3500 on magnets tho they do have that fancy clip

Yup , weld that hole flat on any of the shafts also wears the shift pin inside the pto grind that weld smooth or use sand paper (flapper disk) so it does not cut on the shift pin later shafts only had a small center divot

Dairyland Manufacturing and Repair HERE