HydroTek

Disconnect the tractor linkage and check the speeds using the pump lever only 2300 on my Hydro This a Farmall model ? -- my Hydro I-656 has a kill cable (I changed it to electric shut off) Still the tractor linkage probably has a lot of slack in it -- throttle lever popped out of the lower bracket ? Your engine idle at the correct speed ? The lever distance between idle and kill is about one inch forward Moving the lever rearward from idle should be no more than 1/4" until the engine speeds up then full speed is against the stop on the pump lever

Yes, they are attached to the cover and to the actuator remove the pins should allow the cover to slide off -- leaving the actuator behind

"wet" compression test is not recommended on a diesel because the cylinder tends to fire -- fuel in the cylinder and all that stuff D-155 is the same family as the D-179 -- just the baby brother pump is ran off the cam idler gear on a separate gear on the pump shaft 360 would be the min spec -- but that depends on how the compression tester is constructed -- diesel compression testers have the check valve in the adapter that is used in the injector hole -- else the compression is "lost" in the hose and fittings on a standard compression gauge Main thing is the cylinders should be the "same" using the tester in hand I would suspect the valve lash was not set correctly -- 3 cylinders are a bit tricky

I have a 466 with that trans hooked to it trans looks to bolt direct to the engine bell housing on this engine SAE 2 flywheel housing is the size -- I dont have the specs , but can prolly look that up on the webs 17.652 id on the bore of the housing 18.38 bolt circle 12 -3/8x16 holes Yeah no computers on that trans would need the flywheel for the automatic also driveshaft likely will need to be cut to length

They turned pictures off -- probably because we were sharing too many factory diagrams -- got afraid of the patent lawyers on discontinued tractors

Get the pins out of the triangle plates -- I think that is holding the actuator to the cover once you get the cover off , you can see the reason the disks are not coming off the spline shaft since the tractor drives -- the disks are not stuck to the brake surfaces

Only had one loose the dowel -- but plenty that the dowel was not fully seated in the block Loose bolts seem to be more prevalent for me -- and a few cracked housings , usually next to the injection pump -- yeah bolts on the oil pump always get removed / cleaned and fresh red loc-tite I quit using gaskets on that front cover way back -- had much better luck with leaks Loose bolts on the rear main or the seal housing "flaring" letting the seal pop out

Have you used the 1/2 piece of PVC pipe to get lifters out ? -- string and a magnet to get the lifter back in yeah wood dowels and rubber bands tho Neo magnets on the end of the dowel would def be an improvement I use the Kubota gray -- it is "better" than ultra Honda bond should also be good -- 3-Bond makes that stuff I think lol , knock off of 3M products -- I have used their gray stuff a few times -- it works good

I suggest leaving the rubber boots off , so air can get thru and dry the moisture out Rust/water is a weakness on those type of brakes Cant remember if there is a place on the bottom of that housing to drill a hole to help with water removal or not -- the boot may be enough on the bottom to do the job

Cover should come off , since the slot for the controls is open on one side then the disk and actuator will slide off the splines both actuator plates should float inside the cover inner actuator should not be against the inner disk when you pull the cover away maybe stuck to the disk ? if you can get the pins out of the triangle plates -- the cover should come off -- then you can see what is stuck

Basically a 424 with the newer diesel engine

I know the flasher will work without load -- was just trying to get others to know that also Check your power going to the flasher -- that system while it looks complicated -- is not at all if we had pictures working -- I have a new flasher here that I could demonstrate

DaiyLand has a kit for the valves and lines https://www.facebook.com/reel/2269458366864239

These the muffler bushings for the kenuter valve bracket ... A little more description would help others visualize whatever you are looking at

Yeah , I hold the lifters up and pull the cam Been using the Kubota gray sealant on those -- seems to hold up well yeah no gasket -- same for the front tin cover

Unless the tractor is bouncing -- dont see the carb being the problem Sat on the sled in many pulls behind garden tractors some you could take a nap -- others had to get the seat belt fastened Brother had an alcohol modified cub cadet I had the 169 hydro stocker in our little club Cousin and I designed and built the purple sled used in the 70's SITP still pullin tractors

could be either way on the black white would be the mechanical clock motor metal is the heavy duty electronic Turn the flashers on or select a direction and smack the box on the side with a screw driver handle Do you have the 2 power wires to the box that I mentioned ?

That is a hydro transmission -- should be able to load the engine easily if the tractor is tied to a load Yeah , drive over a chain with a tractor tire-- then hook the end of the chain so it wont pull from under the tire hook the short end to the puller -- now you have a load that is low to the ground Hydro's make full drive pressure with the control handle just off neutral -- so as you push the handle more , the pump just pushes more oil flow over the relief valves -- and will work the engine harder

You can hear the flasher box relay work -- even if there are no lights connected just need a ground and one of the power wires I mentioned earlier Your flasher box metal or is it plastic ? white, black , or silver ??

Look at the valve -- could be one of two types -- valve will be flat (closed) on the side -- or have a cover plate To add a second valve , if the current valve is closed -- you need a valve that is open on both sides -- if the current valve is closed, but has the cover plate -- you can use a single sided valve Seen a guy that is making 3 valve handle kits (long handle style), fairly reasonable -- you will need the second handle and brackets

Sounds like you need to hook to something at home and figure this out -- you for sure there is no hole in the muffler ?

Misunderstood I guess -- thought the pin was cut in two

Mounting screws for the plastic around that console need to be secure Had a few that have let the plastic get broken -- or loose screws and the control board will contact the metal frame

For sure - yes identify the leak before doing any other work

Diodes are one way, that is not gonna change -- but there are driver circuits used that control the power draw on the diodes these days -- since automotive (tractor) battery power varies quite a bit thru the voltage range -- diodes are voltage specific 11-16 volts will not do for a diode The driver circuit allows the LED light to work at various voltage inputs and still have the same output -- also this allows pulsing of the diode to extend the life when over driving with power So in a nut shell -- pulsed power is better than constant in several ways