HydroTek

Muffler shield in good shape ?? not blowing hot exhaust back on the carb or intake ? That mower blows the exhaust out the front grille I run that engine in my saw mill that one gets the snot pulled out of it sometimes I put a KT17 in my 169 Cub Cadet several years ago

Yes , the lift unit needs to come off the tractor One would have to ask why that gasket would be leaking -- there is no pressure on it -- just holds oil in the housing Would be best to clean the housing off and determine exactly where the leak in sourcing from

Just pull the engine and find the problem -- before more damage is done

16-20 psi on that tractor Depends on weight on the rear of the tractor

@snoshoe Power steering maybe ? that flow divider is farther forward Yeah , wouldn't call the hitch valve "between your feet" Lol OP gonna need todo a better job of describing where the leak is coming from Photo Bucket and get us a pic of the leak -- post the link to the pic here

If you have the cast pulley -- some were not balanced properly Look for drilled spots to make the pulley balance -- if more that one or two small dimples -- throw that pulley in the trash Failure was the center of the pulley is unfinished cast -- then 'they' over drilled the outer rim to try and compensate I have had alternators that break the housings on several occasions -- put them on the tester , and almost jump off the machine This would be on the 2 groove pulley

Another method is "rocking" the tractor with the pedal down and in 4th gear Just as it sounds the goal is to put jarring load on the gears and knock the clutch plate loose -- rock the tractor back and forth hard as you can -- get a helper if you are weak

Ya do know that the point gap is set using a light and the mark on the flywheel ?? -- right -- that sets the timing for the spark With the engine revved up -- Hi speed screw turned in until the carb throttle just starts to open a little -- then back out 1/4 turn ?? Both plugs fire at the same time on that engine -- have seen a few with burned connection inside the plug wire boot

Glad it is working Does the engine "free up" when you turn the steering ? -- just considering if the system is on pressure or not -- also operate the 3pt Check the steering lines , and oil cooler lines under the hood -- probably loose in the clamps -- common for those to vibrate

2 Main regulators in the MCV Lower regulator is the flow divider for the steering -- spring does not affect pressure , as full pump pressure is available there -- excess flow is used for general lube Upper regulator is the pressure valve for the TA (brakes, seat, clutch cylinder) using steering return as a source -- spring does affect clutch pressure -- excess flow is used to lube the TA

Chainsaw bar oil is my goto oil for general purpose -- tractor supply oil or Poulan is you can find it

Chunk of foam strip glued to the pump sits between the pump and that rib in the housing I have some 3M 847 to glue that on

When I lived at the "river farm" had almost 6 tenths long drive with two long slopes in it -- I feel fr you about grading after each rain Put in three angled terraces on the one hill and two on the other -- speed bumps - lol those helped a lot and kept visitors speed down , so the gravel stayed on the road better Done all that with a 990 Davy Brown and a five foot grader blade old Deere blade had angle and tilt -- and worn in every joint so followed the contours Hydraulic side tilt would have been handy -- not trying to talk you out of it -- but it is not all that you think it is either Getting back to "level" is difficult , tho maybe that is not as important as following the ground Son has a Massey - 40hp 4x4 that put hydraulic top link on -- that has been great for the box blade We also made a "road leveler" using some large angle iron and part of a screen out of a rock crusher The angles (3) are different directions and lengths - patterned after a factory unit the screen drags on chains behind -- that screen is about 200 pounds Whole thing lifts on the 3pt and does a great job making the drive look like new Where I and my Son live the drives are much shorter and leveler than the river farm -- seen that the people that own the river farm have black topped the drive -- bet that cost a pretty penny you have the one that adjusts -- take measurements

Also can come from the big rubber plug in the hydraulic dam Remove the round cover on the other side of the trans and see if the plug is intact -- may be able to see the plug if you have the MCV removed

Pretty much just a 454 with a 4 cylinder Perkins engine instead of the 3 cylinder Neuss

I used a venturi fitting and an old fuel cap -- shop vac was always out in the other shop , or somewhere besides the tool room -- LoL Air hose was right there at my work bay and keep the "tool" handy on the bench shelves For sure saves the mess on fuel , hydraulic , or coolant also used the vac to suck out head bolt holes from oil and dirt -- made a catch can from a steering reservoir off a JX tractor

You would not want to see my raw text -- with my dyslexia there is no making sense at times -- that's why I break up my sentences , sometimes they don't make sense to even me Vibration can go a long way when something is stuck , as in your example . Since the other side will adjust , run it out as far as it will go and measure the length . This will give an estimate of the roll pin location in relation to the threads I really think you would be best served to turn the screw inward -- since outward takes the risk of lathing out the threads and destroying the lift arm housing Son has a hydraulic top link on his small tractor which is pretty handy to set how much the box cuts-- not much need for the side link unless you are cutting ditches

Hook a cylinder to that valve Then activate the valve -- nothing right? now activate one of the other remotes while still holding the 3rd valve Cylinder works now ? Signal check may be sticking

Put some good pressure on the breaker bar and then hammer on the side of the threaded housing -- vibration may let the rust/junk loose The top of the shaft will just twist (off) if you have a decent breaker bar -- so no need to put that much pressure on it I have one of the old IH 3/4" socket sets -- Williams made it if I remember right the ratchet in that set would easily break the top off that thread rod -- the 'red pipe' that came with the 1066 tractors will slip over the handle , and has had my full weight on it many times -- have a breaker bar from 'Snappy also most any other will disappoint

Sounds like the PTO input shaft in the clutch housing has lost the splines -- time to split at the engine There is an inspection cover on the bell housing that may let you see the spline shaft to clutch plate interface

This horse has been beat a few times already ... Plain street elbow -- and orifice is in the line adapter fitting -- fitting has notches in the hex to identify it

Flow control spring can break and lose pressure -- also the oring plug in the end of the spool likes to fail Mine is failed in number one valve -- makes a lot of hissing when the lever is pulled -- not difficult to fix, just keep forgetting grab an oring Remove the flow knob/cable (set screw) and the pin from the control lever -- swing the lever away and remove the flow control top -- pull the valve and spring out

I keep plugs for the fuel lines various plugs for various instances if you were to forget to open that valve -- and start the engine -- unfortunate things will happen Split many many of those tractors -- removing fuel lines and plugging at the tank was one of the first steps right after taking the transmission drain plugs out You shouldn't be "in" the fuel system hardly ever -- years and changing filters should not get very little back thru the pump

Yeah , my memory on which posts I have responded to is weak usually just respond to the post in front of me ,, not going back to look up previous stuff

Would get you a pic of one -- I have a few in my brass box -- but pics are still not working I suspect that replacing the soft hose with a hard hose is a contributing factor in the orifice popping out of that elbow -- the soft hose dampens the fuel vibration in that pump Behind that metal plug that you can see in the elbow inlet , is the orifice plate and a check valve and spring None of that is good in the throttle area of that pump -- usually the parts block the throttle in the low position -- but I have had 2 that were opposite -- one threw a rod before the operator was able to figure what todo to kill the engine Easy way is cut the soft fuel line -- no fuel , engine cant run -- or get in a higher gear and hope to choke the engine down