HydroTek

The update parts for that return -- is a open elbow with the orifice in the line adapter fitting the original had the orifice and check valve in the elbow inlet side -- these are the parts that would fall out and get into the throttle valve

Dunno -- I typed "fuel line packing sleeve" in and got a page full of them -- maybe you are weak with the amazon foo

Sounds kinda like that 786 we sold tricycle front with open station only one I have seen -- maybe I am just sheltered

Amazon sells those line packings -- or see your dealer

Cable actually moving the spool ? flow control turned down ?

Yeah, bio fuel is a different problem with the gummy mess the low sulfur stuff causes brown rust and pitting of the surfaces , like the cam ring -- I am sure you have seen this Bio is fine as long as moisture is controlled and the fuel is not stored a long time problem comes with the weekend farmer types and the tractor sitting Even regular farmers should not let bio fuel sit in the tanks thru the winter off season drain the tanks and put plain diesel in there to the top Bio is fine in the tractor that is ran a lot -- feed tractors

Needle bearing from a U joint can work for a replacement pin -- when the shaft assembly is not available Blind hole in the shaft , so have to drill the backside to get the old stub out -- done this a few times in a pinch Clean - Dry fuel these days is super important since the solvent combination that is used to trap the sulfur content from the fuel is corrosive if water is present Would not hurt to add some lubrication to the fuel -- but that is another can or worms discussion

Done -- just watching your back

LoL seen those "pressures" and was almost yelling at my screen -- then seen gauges I need to slow down and get another cup of coffee

Green light was blinking ? Did you check voltages with the harness connected ? disconnected ? There are other controllers on the Buss voltage should be the "same" connected/ disconnected I prefer to back pin the connector , so as not to damage the terminals inside the female terminals are small "fingers" that are easily damaged if you poke in there Back pin kits are relatively inexpensive -- basically just a small stiff wire with a rounded tip and a connector

That information is incorrect -- the internet copy/paste stuff has stuck yet again -- re-sellers just regurgitating the same wrong info Only "wet bolster" tractors used that arm for wide front axles '66 series and up were "dry" bolster -- and used an external steering cylinder -- whole different "steering arm" on those Seen that arm broken several times over the years Any running tractors with wet bolsters and wide axles should check that arm for cracks / loose bolts every one in a while

That spool should "almost" touch the snapring in Hi and fully raise the spool in Lo -- grab the linkage in Lo and if you can raise the spool -- then adjust -- 1/16" clearance on each end of travel is spec the lever is adjustable for some wear -- at the clevis and the lever stop You need to get the spool working to the full limits before more damage is done

That one brazed -- or is it splined with a allen head ? could be off one spline Would have to see how much "slack" is in the lever before the engine came off idle Good part is -- the throttle shaft can be replaced with the pump on the tractor -- 10 minute job if one knows what they are doing

Thats not PM/DM (personal message) -- better edit that number off the public forum

Yup, good ole corrosive "diesel fuel" we have these days -- that junk is not your GrandPa's diesel fuel Snapped the throttle link pin

Drag link socket is the proper tool basically a large flat screw driver on a socket -- they come in different widths Usually no need to remove that part unless you see evidence of damage or the plug is loose -- push on the poppet and if if moves than should be good Usually the problem is the oring is worn flat or the orifice in the piston has junk in it I think the largest drag link socket I have in my box is 1-1/2" -- Snap-on was proud of that one

Yup, true that ... once the oring starts leaking that small area and the gasket is all that is keeping air out of the suction

Throttle the only thing that does not work on that controller ? Possible that you guys have the CAN information backwards -- have to check the diagrams to verify

No park on concrete or level ground and remove the top link cover -- take a look

Straight edge the block and also the top of the sleeves Had one several years back that had one high sleeve

Raise response knob turned up ?

The top compartment of the valve holds reservoir oil -- but that is only for manual braking when the engine is off the '06 series had the open center valves -- just not sure when they changed to closed center yeah , the one gallon orifice is the limiting factor either way

Yeah , the valve is "closed center" oil only starts flowing when pedal is first pushed the cuts on the stems are what controls the oil entering the valve Been that way pretty sure before the '66 series if you have a valve apart that has smooth stems -- then that one is open center Ima say started after the '06 series

"Lube" gets the full flow of the pump , minus the one gallon (if the brakes are pressed) -- excess oil past the flow regulator is used for lube "Pressurized Lube circuit" gets what is left from the steering return -- this is the oil that lubes the TA -- minus any leaks in the TA -- and if the brakes are pressed The light is on the pressurized lube , because it is the last in line for oil pressure -- so the first to indicate a leak in the TA @snoshoe there was a service letter explaining the differences in the '86 series -- probably more of an update information letter I remember part of it mentioning about using the larger mcv pump -- think that pump is all that is available today

Mostly a new gasket would solve that problem -- new gasket had that black stuff down that one side