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TeachersPet1066

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About TeachersPet1066

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday August 18

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    Male
  • Location
    Western PA

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  1. I need a 1460 parts donor right about now...
  2. Spoke to the original owner of the wheels - his 1460 was not 4wd. Thanks for the pictures. the 1460 who I got wheels from must have had different hubs maybe 1259528C1. Fab shop is cutting out a set of spacers to see out of curiosity. Will keep a lookout for hubs over the winter but it would be a project. Original tires are sitting here and can put back on. Thanks again for the replies. Of all projects, this 1460 has been one of the most trying.
  3. I would ask for another video or two. Have them speed it up a little. Also I’ve read on here about holding brakes to help check hydro.
  4. Dealership coming Tuesday with mechanic who works on older IH combines. Got Valve stack back from hydraulic shop but busted another hydraulic hub. Hopefully will have an update on Tuesday night.
  5. Was given a pair of 18.4-16.1 for the 1460. They came off a 1460. Thought they would clear but are rubbing. Does the axle need adjusted per book or is there something I am missing? Or does wheel need tilted in slightly like book mentions for toe in? Thank you.
  6. Charlie Burgh in Zelienople, PA. Sorry...not close to KY. May have something. http://www.burghimplement.com/
  7. Rusty I’m guilty of what Sparky said about not using tractor hard enough (with my 1066 - DT468 with new pump & injectors) but that seems like a lot on the frame rail. I agree & have injectors checked. My 1066 cleared up for a day when pulling the disc a few years ago.
  8. I agree...I once thought HyTran looked ok on a tractor dipstick but then had issues so I took 3rd link cover off to look inside and it was possibly the worst oil ever. Lesson learned. Welcome to the forum. There are a lot of good resources on here.
  9. TeachersPet1066

    1066

    I would suggest having injectors & pump looked at. Take off head and have checked. I messed up one time and didn’t have head checked when it was off & tractor would not start/run...it was a valve in the head. Clean off top of piston & get part #. I’ve purchased a lot of good pistons/liners on the internet before, especially eBay. As Farmall1066 said, will be a cake walk. I’m not a mechanic but watched 466s for a few years & now can disassemble, rebuild, etc. Good motor to work on...and it was free! Great way to start a project.
  10. Jim, It was leaking really bad, upon start up no response to hydraulics (no auger, steering, feederhouse) but had pressure coming to valve stack and electric, busting pump drive when feederhouse finally worked & lifted the whole way up. Mechanic recommended get another valve. Having mine looked at - it’s over $700 for used so decided to have mine looked at & see if there’s an issue with pressure relief valve. Found homemade shims when I took it off so that may be issue. New to me combine that I’m working some bugs out.
  11. Definitely. I prefer the 75lb with the L cutout but regardless of 75 or 100lb they seem to be $100-$125 ea.
  12. I gave them the parts breakdown but they want the schematic of how the valve works. I found the photo below in an old RP post. Wasn’t sure if something like the attached photo could be found.
  13. Checked my service manual and it only has non electric & not much info. Problem is it is Feb 1980 version.
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