1967806

Brake indicator flashes once in a while so guessing that might be the issue.

So got the pto unit off and found suction tube was loose and full of black crap that looks like clutch linings. PTO clutches were fine. Everything else checked out fine. Thinking tube got plugged up and was making pump suck air beings it was loose at the clamp. Wondering now if the wet brakes might be coming apart? Do they cause issues very often?

Yep, no pressure. No locking down and brake does not apply. Shaft just freewheels.

Sounds like might as well just pull the unit and have a look.

Got a newer 1086 with the PFC pump with pto that wont turn anything. Can grab the shaft and stop it from turning. Installed gauge and not seeing any pressure when its engaged. How does that style pto unit control its pressure? I see there is a regulator valve in the pump housing. Just trying to figure out what we might find if we pull the pto unit.

You can usually crank it over with throttle off and prime it on all the ones I've done.

You can take the plug out of the back of the MCV and crank the engine over till you get oil out the hole. Once you put the plug back in it should pump when you crank it then. MCV pump could be getting weak and you could have some water in the oil if it sets outside.

And another thing I forgot to mention, hang on to that door if its real windy. You can pull the end right off that cylinder. Did that once.

Just put one on a 1086. Holes ended up coming out right on the ridge. Guess it will still work. I also put the handles on the inside of the door too that they sell. Put a set in my 5288 years ago and they were chrome. Now they are just painted silver. Guessing the EPA probably made it a hassle for chrome shops to keep going.

I did a 756 gasser for a guy last winter. Used the kit I got from Steiner Tractor Parts. Initial cleaning I put a couple gallons of diesel fuel in it and a couple of foot long 3/8 or so log chains in it, strapped it to a dual rim of another tractor and drove around for awhile. Then I followed the directions for the kit. Their kit uses a degreaser first and then acetone to clean it. I also used some degreaser of my own after the diesel fuel.

The book for the 30 series IH said to back it out a 1/4 to a 1/3rd turn. We backed this one out 1/4 turn.

I cant remember what they said the original problem was.

Same problem I've had. Pretty sure Midwest steering probably has the parts cheaper than case IH too.

Digital readout went to Ag Express to get repaired. Got it back and ended up had to replace the RPM transducer to get tach to read RPM's. Old was was open, zero Ohms. New sensor fixed tach issue. Also had to replace the EGT sensor as it ohmed zero ohms as well. New sensor made that work. Figured out MPH read zero and just figured that sensor was bad too but wanted to wait till they pulled the seat out to replace interior kit to work on that. Got to it today and sensor read 1900 OHms with red and black test leads one way and 2100 ohms with them hooked the other way with tractor not moving. Checked voltage at the plug from the tractor harness and both leads have 1.75 volts from pin to ground. Lead going to MPH sensor reads the same thing and it works. That sensor ohmed around 900 ohms with engine stopped. Could not get either one to read voltage from pin to pin with key on and that particular function turned on for each sensor. Decided to check ohms on MPH sensor with one rear wheel jacked up and running in gear and ohms reading drops as speed increases. Still not sure what ohm reading should be. Case IH want 800 and something for a new MPH sensor. Really would like to be sure that is the problem before we order one. Anyone think of anything I'm missing? Is the 1900 ohm reading close to right?

I don't have an IT manual to look at but most likely its the shaft sea and/or the lower boot in the ring between the commutator and valve housing. I used to replace that stuff all the time and never had problems. Lately its been about a 50/50 chance of getting them to work right after I get them done. The ones that have caused me problems steer hard when done. By the time you get parts for both ends from case IH you have well over 100 bucks in parts. I been starting to send mine off to Midwest Steering in Independence, MO to get them rebuilt. They completely tear them down, clean them up, measure all parts and use factory specs to re assemble them and then run them on a test stand. The two that I've had done so far have worked perfect. Both times was a little over 400 bucks. I have some spare hand pumps on hand that I can send off to get rebuilt for future use if need be.