HydroTek

Standard roller arm switch only thing "special" is the price from the dealer and the harness soldered to the terminals Tricky part was getting the switch centered exactly , so the shift linkage would not wipe out the roller arm Bypass the shifter switch and put a switch on the clutch pedal you have to push the pedal to start -- and be responsible to make sure the shifter is in the gear you intend if in park -- the shifter should be in neutral anyways unless the interlock is worn out

Mineral content may be a little high -- but whatever works I have used ditch water when overheated on the highway

... and that is why you can't run the same settings in the morning that you will at noon -- then again if still running at night unless you want cracks and splits in the grain -- or throwing grain on the ground

Needs to be ethylene glycol antifreeze not organic acid type not familiar with pink you are not gonna change again for 5 years -- so don't be cheap -- LoL

Fluid film or Woolwax both the same stuff they have a spray applicator Park on a head wagon or on timbers

I have re-cut the groove shoulder in those shafts a few times better to have too much side to side , than a tapered shoulder

This stuff be careful -- all the jugs are yellow get the jug with the black label like in the link Pre-mix is great if you do not use distilled water https://www.autozone.com/p/prestone-antifreeze-af-2000/525501?productPartGroupId=11393&productBrandId=BDBC&productUniqueId=1250858101 Use a 6 point socket is best , so the shoulders stay in good shape on the plug -- 5/8" I think put some Tef tape on it and do not over tighten Filter is good to clean up a system that has rust in it -- if your coolant is nasty when you drain it Kit is some difficult to put on the 3 cylinder engine , without looking like it just was rigged

No tapered ball pin that I have seen that is just for the steering anchor far as I know

May be able to salvage the brake disks , if you dont get carried away with the screw drivers -- LoL Moisture trapped in the brake housing is the main problem -- this causes a rust coating on the brake surface that will not make any stopping friction -- you can use the squared file to scrape the rust scale down to clean metal then use 80 grip sand paper on the disks to get a fresh surface the balls and pockets need to be cleaned up -- use a wire brush on a drill for the pockets -- springs prolly need replaced Light coat of anti seize on the ball pockets when you go back together -- also on the 3 places on the outside of the actuator where it contacts the housing I leave the boots off and drill the housing at the bottom to let air dry the housing out -- the original asbestos linings (reddish/brown color) would hold moisture and help cause the rust -- later "yellow" linings were better at the rust problem

Remove the lower hose -- also the block drain plug Regular green is fine for that tractor any system that uses soldered radiator needs to use green coolant -- the organic acid types leeches the tin out of the solder and you will get leaks from the solder cracking Your tractor have the coolant filter ?

Keep the PB on the splines as often as you can -- or FreeAll if that is available in your area I would tap near the splines on the disk to see if the disk will drive onto the shaft a little more -- the "springiness" of the disk should push back and help break the rust bond you could use a small flat file and scrape the rust from the splines -- "square" the end of the file on a grinder , and use the corners of the file as a scraper on the shaft splines -- files are made of some hard steel and make a good scraper , but keep the edge squared -- that rust will wear the file corners

Shank is straight Yeah hand grinding is difficult , but can be done with the axle still assembled -- scared of a little craftsman work ? -- center part has to be stripped down -- machine shop sill welds the hole -- then gets the axle into a Mill and cuts the weld back out to round

PTO unit is the same Glad the problem got resolved -- wondering where that missing part of the washer is tho -- hope it does not show up again

Good "nickel rods" about $5 per rod gonna need 3 or 4 rods should already own a die grinder and 1/2" carbide Yeah the over size ball can sometimes work if the operator has not let it wallow out too bad

LED will work fine , and you are correct -- it will not pass enough current to excite the alternator The resistor will provide the excite current path -- just need to be sure of the LED polarity , if you want to see it light

Look at the condition of the plastic check valve when you get the pilot valve off

Should, yeah the donor valve needs to be open on both sides original single usually is single sided only -- tho some were double sided and a cover plate you need to look at your valve to determine DairyLand is making metal line sets

Weakens the wishbone by removing metal

The "ends" of the hole in the wishbone are worn out an oversize anything will only fit tight in the center of the hole Need to build up the ends of the hole so the ball will not just wobble out again

You can bypass the whole system and just use a SPDT toggle switch as the most basic setup Dont spend money on a "test harness" Spend on troubleshooting the sentry system or repair Once you understand how the sentry operates -- it really is a simple system

Only went to Rock Island a couple of times Been to Racine several times also -- some cool machining centers there You ever get to goto Burr Ridge ?

Made a few trips over to the Louisville plant to see the different machines at work over the years Pretty cool stuff to learn about I think last time was for the '50 series drive train was a new machining setup only 4 guys running it Raw housing on one side of a "U" shape and finished on the other side lots of surface cutting , drilling, and tapping in the big "U" Stamping crankshafts on that huge press in the other building the whole floor shook as the press dies came together 4 big bolts holding the press together -- about 60 feet vertical -- they said just as much in the ground Big flywheel and camshaft at the top that moved the die up and down

I drill and put a grease fitting on all that I get in the shop fitting goes in the cap -- need to tilt the cap to drill in the drill press want the fitting near (1/3 of the way) to the rear of the cap -- closed end -- I use a 45 degree drill center guide that I made years ago -- just a pieces of angle iron welded on a plate to make a "V" I use chrome-nickel rod to weld the hole up where it it worn -- middle is usually not too bad -- just the outsides of the hole -- die grinder and carbide burr -- just do good work and get the hole "round" I use a pin or socket as a test fitting to figure where to grind the high spots -- but use whatever you have handy -- would be best to measure the new ball shank and make a pin that is a little under size -- need the ball to fit tight in that wishbone

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Straight hole - splines on the ball shank help to grip the metal I have welded the hole and used a carbide cutter on a die grinder to get it back in shape You need to drive the ball into the wishbone with a sledge Also have just welded the ball in place -- but not my favorite "fix" to the problem Drill that cap for a grease fitting -- and use it