Geoff_in_MN

Installed new voltage regulator direct from China. Initial charging voltage is down considerably from the 19.2 volts. it's hovering around 14.35 volts now, which seems a bit high, but the battery was discharged from having to hold the glow plug button for 90 seconds. I'm gonna keep an eye on things to see if it doesn't settle down a bit.

I installed 2 new alternators from DB Electric. Both the 10DN style. The first one went bad within about 5 hours of use. The 2nd one is pushing 19.22 volts so obviously still good even though it got real hot in very short order. I'm hoping a new regulator will take care of that issue. If not, I've probably got some wiring issues I'll need to address. I'll keep everyone posted.

This is what I ordered. Probably solid state. I don't know.

I could trash the current alternator, but not this time. I'm not a purist when it comes to originality, more function over form. Gonna stay with the current alternator and voltage regulator for now, but not opposed to trying other means. Snoshoe hinted at bad wiring. It's all original and is showing age. We shall see.

Thanks. I'm sure this'll be a trouble-free installation. Or not.

I located the voltage regulator in my 1972 656 diesel hydro. I installed an alternator after the original one seized up only to find the charging voltage to be around 19.22 volts. Yikes! I'm assuming the voltage regulator is bad but unless there is a way to test it out of the tractor it's relatively cheap. I checked the resistance of the ballast resistor and it ohmed out at 10.22 ohms. My question is, is that within spec?

Thanks for your insight HydroTek. So at least the tractor would not be leaking as it sits which would mitigate at least some fluid loss? And by close, are you implying that I could do the proper repair without removing the loader and the cab? At this point it doesn't seem like I can even get a wrench on anything externally.

I'm sure this has been discussed here and on other forums in the past, but I'm looking for some assurance from some real world experience. Basically, I want to remove the seat and then the top cover of the draft and position control housing and unscrew/remove a tall plug that presumably exists in there. Supposedly the Hytran will then find a level below the leak source (bad o-rings or whatever) and I can go blissfully about my day without losing another gallon of spendy fluid. The alternative would be to remove loader, remove cab, remove loader valves and then the draft/position controls just to replace a couple of o-rings. Not gonna do that. Apparently, the only downside to the plugectomy is there will be a void of fluid in the top of the reservoir so that the parts inside will no longer be bathed in fluid and that water may condensate in said space promoting rust. Also, I'm curious to know if this will affect the dipstick reading. There's probably a couple of you out there that have done this. If you have, I'd sure like to hear from you before I proceed. Thanks in advance!