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560Dennis

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560Dennis last won the day on July 17

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About 560Dennis

  • Birthday 04/17/1949

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Madison,Ohio
  • Interests
    All Machinery in General , Passion for Farmall's, 560 Diesel , Farmall C , Restoring Fordson Model F ?? Year . Fairbanks Morse hit miss 1919 . Would like a Farmall M and H someday .

    Hunting and Fishing

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  1. Looks like the Susquehanna River Special . first things first , fix the seat , don’t want your wallet chain to hang up in the springs do you on the way out dragging you like a spooked mustang. if you ever come down route 322 along the Susquehanna River you’ll understand , you’ll understand the label . Quickly escape!
  2. Thanks for sharing ,
  3. I use kerosene ( 5 gallons ) in the Farmall c. Comes out clumps of sludge. Drive around our hills lawn . Best Ive had was 3 times filtering out sludge with shop rags. Then use on next to last try I use long wire brush to clean out hangers,from drain plug and I find a bonus of parts , with extending magnet , recover wire and pins through in got though in as a joke .
  4. Have not bought any recently ,got a sweet deal from napa couple of years back for sae 90 napa. Good for you your doing your research
  5. I don’t recommend 80 / 90 wt for your differential,your got brass bushings in there. Straight Sae 90 wt Gl1 mineral oil. for that tractor differential. you can get it at tractor supply or napa gl4 or gl5 has high sulphur for hypoid gear extra pressure . That sulfur latches onto brass in extra pressure situation and fret soff brass . Made that mistake in supercc and c had frets of brass collected in bottom of differential in a year latter ,drain all that stinking gray crap out and went to napa and got sae 90 gl1 and put it in.cs . my advice do what you want your choice
  6. Should of bid on those seed plates for my corn planter . notes said they passed over them . What’s that mean ? Sold them prior or didn’t get a bid ? i think the cub cadets went for real good value
  7. My opinion the letters don’t get up to temperature these days . I don’t get my Farmall C much above 150 F that’s a sludge maker. Needs to be 180 or 190. I just don’t run mine they way we use to all day hard in the field the way they were designed. check your thermostat ,I recommend A a temperature as high as you can get like 190 for just putting around . Are you going to work hard ? I put a meat thermometer in the warmed radiator and measure the temperature for benchmark before I do any changes . while you got the pan off do a check of your oil pump and bring back into spec , good maintenance ,well worth it and get a new gasket or make one they known to blow out on letter series cause the bottom plate is not longer flat. if interested also check for antifreeze around bottom of wet sleeves while pan is off . Be sure to flush it out and put in fresh antifreeze. you could also get some plastic gage and check the rods and mains to see what you got there . I’ll stop there ,you probably heard enough from me
  8. Good photos ! Can’t wait to see more !
  9. cleaned up good Looks to me like , I try my electrolysis tank . Thinking it would take couple of day to clean it may be less dependent on material ferrous.
  10. I usally goto timkin documents online and looking for the taper bearing . if I find a number for it ,I go to eBay and see who got them , pick the the best option. I haven’t done it in while , last time was for Fordson front wheel bearing race . Got one from a guy in Texas . Worked . Save me huge
  11. This may not be the right thing to say ,but don’t beat yourself up about this . Enjoy the tractor. In fact you might get c179 out of the clear blue someday , who knows . Then what ? Have fun !
  12. I looked at those cotter pins again . In my opinion they are original. Looks like they were reused ,there Tool marks on the where I highlighted it from pliers or vise grips that pulled the out. i think they broke where they did from metal fatigue (work harden). A new cotter pin has more elasticity. just what I see
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