Jeff-C-IL

Unfortunately, no longer in the catalog. There was some talk they might be doing another run of them, but they never replied to my query.

Thanks - that helps a lot! One more annoying question: On the large frame, you just unbolt & lift off the top plate. On these smaller tractors do you have to go in from the back and disconnect that line first? Would like to know before breaking anything should I decide I need to go in and fix it. (its sucking air pretty bad right now, but may try the overfull trick first!)

Hmm - that company has a "Permanently Closed" tag when you search online.

Sounds like you have experience! Great - I got questions! I may have to work on my suction line soon, and I'd like a better feel for how this all works together. Curious - how can you remove the hitch pump and retain the secondary pump for steering when the secondary pump piggy backs on the hitch pump? Or am I thinking about this wrong and its the secondary pump that runs the hitch? Where does the lube oil come from - hitch pump or steering pump? Or don't tractor pullers care about that? Can that tube be removed and repaired thru the toplink - or do you have to pull the top cover? Hope these also help the OP....

I'd be interested to see what he has on the wire at #2 if he disconnects it (can be key off). DOes it show normal battery voltage (12.7 or so), or nothing? Is the 19.7V coming from a problem inside the alternator -or is it actual voltage measured at the battery with the alternator running full blast. You say you have no light or resistor in #1 & works fine - I don't want to argue - but I tried that on an old tractor - the alternator went full charge until I installed a light bulb in the circuit. I agree the most likely cause is the regulator - my question is why are the regulators blowing up like this. I would also like to see him measure voltage from the ground post of the battery to alternator case he is using as a ground test point. Should be nearly 0V (even while running). A bad ground strap or bad frame ground might cause weird problems. I've seen where a loose alternator pivot bolt and loose top link back bolt caused the alternator to have poor ground (somebody left them loose "so it could pivot").

I'm thinking that suction tube is (at least partially) what actually fills the filter reservoir with oil. Which is why a cracked tube results in air in the pump. I have not had my 666 apart to trace all this stuff - but I'd be very careful to make absolutely sure you are 1) not blocking a return, 2) not blocking or opening the pump oil supply & 3) making sure to preserve lube oil to the rear end. Hmm - No you can remove that tube - its junk, send it to me! 😆

19V is way too high. Something is commanding the alternator to go full charge. I can't think all 4 alternators are bad. I would suspect a problem in the wire on the #2 terminal (battery sense) wire - If this is not connected near the battery, or is grounded or broken, the alternator will not see the correct battery voltage and try to overcharge the battery. An undersized wire or poor connection on the main alternator to battery charge wire can also create problems. Is the resistor or light on the # 1 wire bypassed by any chance? This may be one case where trying a 1 wire alternator might actually be a good fit - at least as a test - as it would eliminate the # 1 & #2 wiring issues .

This sounds like a "you are too used to modern cars with emissions controls" issue....😁 We can't see how much smoke you are getting - but all the old tractors smoke some under load - ie reving up. You might be able to lean it out a bit to eliminate some, but not to the point it runs poorly. Checking timing may also help.

From looking at the parts diagrams, that is the return hose from the oil cooler and the flow divider relief. Not connecting that would likely block the steering relief relief - possibly blowing something on the steering circuit. It needs to dump back into the rear end.

Now, put the pin thru from the top down - so when the wing nut spins loose it doesn't fall out.....😆 I think you can figure out how I learned this.....

I'd say go for it. Worst case is you have an new IH 2" cylinder laying around, right? I would point out that the cylinder is listed at max 2000 psi - which should be fine on a 756. Wouldn't want to run it on a brand new MX..... (I will say I run very similar IH cylinders (400 lift marker arm cylinders) on much newer tractors at higher pressure...Ahem...)

The cylinder on these plows were pretty standard single acting cylinders - the different sizes were for larger or smaller plows - a 6 bottom needed a bigger cylinder than a 3 bottom. I would recommend the 2.5" cylinder - just because its middle of the road. Really, all you need to figure out is pin to pin distance fully closed. There are 2 standard measurements on a 8" stroke cylinder - 18.25" & 20.25" (ASAE) I have a 510 plow (different) - it uses a 3x8 single acting that is 20.25" fully closed. Lots of IH were the 20.25" My guess is yours would be the same. So any 8" stroke cylinder with the correct fully closed measurement (likely 20.25") will work for you. AS noted, add a breather to switch a double acting to single acting cylinder. You can make a breather by simply drilling a small hole in a plug. Interestingly - Surplus Center has a NIB 2"x8" IH cylinder available - https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Single-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/2x8x0-875-Single-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinder-International-Harvester-407155R92-9-16084.axd This might work for you - but 2" seems a bit small for a plow lift wheel. For a regular double acting cylinder 20.25" C/C - https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/2-5x8x1-125-ASAE-DA-Hydraulic-Cylinder-9-16154-2508-AD.axd Or if your plow does need the 18.25" - https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/2-5x8x1-125-DA-Hydraulic-Cylinder-9-16154-2508-N.axd

I agree with above - remove top link cover, and look for where the oil is falling. BTW - does the steering, TA & PTO work OK? Any funny noises in the driveline when you pull a remote lever? A quill shaft with the splines worn off will allow things to spin - but will slip under any pressure. Of course, it would make a pretty good racket in the clutch housing!

Interesting Idea, but I don't think you would get a very good seal, as there is very little "sealing surface" outside the bolt heads on the case itself. Also, that would let it leak around the bolt heads - as there would be no seal inside them. However, a 1.25" x 1/2" flat iron, heated and bent to the right shape, brazed or welded on, milled to height, and then drilled thru using the original holes as guides, might work! Be a bit tricky to get it bent just right.

Good show - that's the best reason possible. Sounds like Dan can get you fixed up!