Jeff-C-IL

Are you really gaining anything with radial over bias on a 100 HP 806? Radials float better than Bias (less ground pressure) - the 806 isn't that heavy to begin with. Radials can put more HP the ground.....but the 806 doesn't have enough HP to spin a 16.9-38 bias tire out in most conditions anyway. If you don't have a little slippage you just are harder on the drivetrain and pull the engine down quicker. I found this out the hard way by putting 8 radials on a 4386 - too much tire, not enough HP, no slippage, just lugged the engine down in every hard spot. Had to drop an extra gear over the original bias. (Floated great though!) I had 18.4-34's bias on my 806 and didn't see that radials would have helped any. My recommendation would be bias for most conditions. Now, if you are working in very soft fields or similar (or are VERY concerned about compaction) maybe the radials would help. Now, any 1206/1066 HP & up, yes, I'd maybe go for the radials - certainly for a 1466. One final thought - hang a 3pt drill on that old girl with radial tires and you'll be rockin & wobbling around the ends as the tires squishy this way & that - sometimes those old bias tires can just work better for certain jobs!

Har Har. I do get it though, those JD tractor guts are a mystery.... 10 years ago, I needed a cab tractor in the 100 HP range, as I found I was getting sick planting & spraying on the open tractor. Like, a week of misery every time. IDK why but something in the dust or chemicals bothering me I guess. Doc told me I had to get a cab tractor with A/C. ( the 806 had to go). I initially looked for a 5140 or similar, could not find anything. This JD 7410 popped up local at ~ $10k less than any of the CIH models I had found... low hours, and in very good shape. I have to say its been a darn reliable tractor - and the few parts I have gotten have been significantly cheaper than a comparable CIH part. I think I paid $36 for the starter relay! (Can't even get a generic online for that). Important thing is I no longer get sick.

Well, Dang. I didn't see anything that new on Yesterday's Tractors.....and I did see lots of Homeowner posts on the few others I looked at.

3pt, at least one hydraulic remote, extended drawbar? (what's with that?) Tires & rims look good, loader looks straight. So does the tractor. Says the 3pt and PTO work. I would pay attention to how it starts & runs, and as noted, the front axle & steering. That tractor would easily handle a 6' bushhog. or snowblower. Only downsides is the loader is hard to remove, which makes steering more difficult when not using the loader. If you are at all handy, fixing Lights wires and adjusting the clutch is no biggie. Even the brakes are easy to work on, IF the loader is not in the way. Depends entirely on the price. $2k or $20K.....big difference. $3-4K seems reasonable.

GASP - GREEN Question?? Well, not all of us can be blessed to use only the good red stuff.... I have my Grandma's B and a 7410 (could not find a CIH 5000 series when I was looking) So, my question is - is there a forum like RedPower, but for JD, where you can get decent help on a later model JD like the 7410? My Dash lights are out and would like some advice.

Interesting its that narrow. My 9500 on 24.5-32 tires just BARELY squeaks thru 4-36. The tires can brush the ears on the next row....about 6" of clearance to the row.

Be aware - some of the more "common" machines will not FIT thru 4 row narrow. I'm stuck on 36" corn because my JD 9500 BARELY fits thru 4 row wide (36"). I have too small of acreage to go to a 12 row planter, I refuse to combine unmatched (I don't plant straight)....so 8 row planter and 4 row wide head it is.

I had to reread that a couple times too before I got the right "who died"..... I'd pick up a couple batteries, have the farm tire dealer fix the flat (if its not just needing air).... and see if it cranks. Hopefully its got real farm diesel in it not OTR bio-diesel (still working on a 7.3 that sat 10 years and it gummed up the entire fuel system....)

Just make sure you do like my JD 9500 and put that zerk on the rear of the tube - where you can't reach it with the auger folded in. Idiots.

Well, ya know, milling a wedge shape like that isn't easy.... lots of material wasted.... Gotta make a profit!

I don't think farmers back then were nearly as worried about road travel as making their life a little easier turning around with the cultivator in the field. Many more farms were the 80 or 160 Grandpa homesteaded - the tractor stayed on the farm. Road gear was only used to get the tractor home from the dealers. By the 3rd cultivation pass, you wanted something to make it steer easier!

Curious why you all recommend to take that whole lower casting off and work upside down underneath to remove the line? Seems to me that simply putting a jack under the front of the tranny, lifting slightly to remove weight, then take the left frame rail off is just as easy, and lets you access the lines & couplers right out in the open.

Oh, man! That's great I hope you & your kids have the best time doing this. Not often you get a chance to work on something so "part of the family history." I hope you got the cultivator parts that go with the frame.

If its got a grapple & 3rd section, just put a selector on the 3rd function. Flip the lever that way, run the grapple, flip it the other, run the 3 pt. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Selector-Valves/1-2-NPT-20-GPM-Double-Selector-Valve-Prince-Mfg-DS-1A1E-9-4128.axd I certainly wouldn't be good enough to run a grapple on the front & 3pt on the back simultaneously!

We had both a 1066 and a 1486 - the engine parts were all identical, you could swap everything except the pistons & crank. Even my 4386 had the same manifold and turbo - I swapped the OEM turbo off the 4386 for the LM we had on the 1066.....although its possible the pipe may have been bigger.