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Jeff-C-IL

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About Jeff-C-IL

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    Advanced Member

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    Male
  • Location
    N-C-IL
  • Interests
    AHHC Specialist
    9230, JD 7410, FNH 9030

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  1. Jeff-C-IL

    2166 air seat

    Basically the internal valving is leaking back out the compressor. I suppose one could figure out how to put a little one way air check valve on the line between the compressor and the airbag....but you would have to make sure it opened at pretty low pressure to let air thru to the bag in the first place.
  2. Hmm-good question. A Cross check valve is basically 2 one way valves, which only allow flow in the reverse direction when the opposite side has "greater than xyz pressure". SO when you pressurize the lift hose, for example, the release hose check valve pops open allowing oil to flow back into tractor to tank. And vice-versa. With no pressure, both lines are locked. Its sole purpose it to prevent the loader from settling when sitting. Please note that some loaders have a valve like this on the loader itself. Having 2 checks is usually bad news, as they can fight each other. The check on the loader is actually a good idea, if a hose to the tractor blew it might prevent prevent the loader from falling. The best way to "test" a check valve is to remove it and see if the problem goes away. I see Pete already gave a better answer while I was typing this so.... It's not likely that the check valve is causing your extremely slow lift, etc. That sounds like a failing pump, or maybe a failed bypass/pressure regulator.
  3. I was also thinking his symptom sounded like a cross check valve not opening correctly. IF his system pressure was getting lower (bad pump) that would make the check problem worse, as it takes pressure to hold the check open.
  4. Indicators like those will usually either have a large nut underneath, or some snap catches that need to be pushed in to release them from the panel. Since the nut is always part of the lamp assm, its probably not shown as a separate part.
  5. Except you have to clean all the stop leak crap out of the radiator and block, kicking yourself all the while....
  6. Westendorf - a WL-42 or 44 makes a really nice match for any of the 806-1486 type tractors. Self Leveling, Quick Tach buckets, minutes to take off the whole loader.
  7. SOmeone correct me....but my impression was always that the grease zerk only greases the seal on most axles. The bearing is oiled by having the correct level in the rear end, and it sloshing/running around inside the housing.
  8. Well it obviously runs...unless you are hiding spinning the fan real fast by hand.....! Nice find...that is a very interesting tractor. MORE pics!
  9. We hooked the 4 star tedder up behind a JD B. Non-live PTO, narrow front.....actually worked pretty good, as the front end went between the swaths and the tedder stopped when the tractor did. Last real job we used the B for...its been parked since we stopped making hay. A neighbor borrowed the tedder when he got a heavy rain on some hay, and basically wouldn't give it back. Insisted on buying it from me since I'd quit the hay. Sold it for more then I'd spent to buy it....😃 Timothy--you can think of it like that (i'm with you on the deer...need less of them), or you could also consider the reduction in erosion, nutrient runoff, chemical runoff, etc by taking that highly erodible land out of production, while creating habitat for pheasants, monarchs, deer hunters, etc.
  10. Yep, Tedder and a rake are very different. There are rotary rakes that look somewhat similar, and there are even some that can be set to do both, but the job is actually opposites! A rake is designed to gather the hay and move it into a windrow. A Tedder is designed to toss and spread the hay out as uniformly as possible. The neat thing about the tedder is it makes use of a "intrinsic" principle---heavy hay flies farther when you throw it. SO you have a swath of hay that is dry on top, wet underneath. The tedder hits it and throws it...the dry light stuff has very little mass/momentum, so air friction slows it down and it falls to the ground quickly. The wet heavy hay has much more mass/momentum, so air friction does not affect it as much, so it flies further, landing on TOP of the dry stuff. We never even heard of tedders in my area of IL either. Cut, rake, bale. A friend of mine from NY who makes hay as the primary crop talked me into trying a old tedder they had. WOW. At least a day off drying time. I remember the first time I hooked it up, my dad said "your gonna lose all the leaves, never work." After baling up the best, leafist alfalfa hay we ever did , only 2 days after cutting....the next time we cut hay the first thing out of his mouth was "When shall we ted it?" Yes, a tedder can help save rained on hay, etc, but IME, it actually saves leaves because it lets you turn the hay before the top gets to dry. So when you rake it up, the hay is evenly dry, the leaves don't fall off the real dry stuff from the top. Isn't bleached so bad either!
  11. My dad used to block his 7' Woods mower as far to the side as it would go, so it would cover the downhill wheel and mow the bottom of the ditch. I don't recall ever changing a u joint. The angles caused by 6-12" movement of the mower side to side are much less than the angle caused by lifting the mower all the way up. As long as the driveshaft is properly timed (most can't be assembled out of time) you can easily go to 15-20 degrees angle no problem.
  12. I would suggest block the tractor wheels, and make sure it will shift into both HI & LO just sitting. Then disconnect the shift linkage at the range tranny, and turn the high-low shift arm (5) on top of the range transmission by hand (or with a adjustable wrench). You should be able to feel the detents snap cleanly into place as you move the shift arm. If you can't, then likely the cam rollers (3) and/or spring (18) are broken on the detent arm (20). Pretty common. (Note, you can sorta do this with the shift lever once you know what you are looking for, I just find it much easier to "feel" when moving the shift arm itself.) If the detents are good, then make sure the linkage is adjusted right so it allows the arm to fully snap into it. If all of that seems fine, you are probably going to have to pull the range cover and look. Your gears & collar made be getting chewed up enough to make it kick out, or even a bearing out causing misalignment.
  13. We ran a 12' 11 shank Glencoe disk chisel for years. 4" twisted shovels in fairly heavy black dirt. Pulled it with a 1066 & 1486 about 9-10" deep. The neighbor would borrow it and run it about 7-8" deep behind his 986.
  14. Jeff-C-IL

    Mea Culpa...

    J-Mech-- you know spoiled we are in this area where most people actually maintain stuff and keep it stored inside and there are no rocks and won't put stuff up for sale unless its in good working order? YES, in our area of IL, you can easily find good working used equipment. I got friends in other areas, when I visit I just shake my head at what they call "good". I got one friend who brings a car trailer out each year, buys something we would consider ancient junk only good for scrap, and hauls it out to Western NY where its considered "Clean straight premium" . And I've never ceased to be thankful for all the GOOD dealers we have in the area too!
  15. Back right after the IH -Case merger, there were a whole stack of "front" axles at Milan Surplus in Milan, IL. Also rear fuel tanks not quite right for the 86 series. I was told they were "for a new tractor IH was planning but got killed by the merger". The axles looked very similar to the one in my 9230. I bought one of the fuel tanks and still have it sitting out back. I have no idea what might have happened to the stuff--sadly, Milan Surplus is long gone.
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