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About Jeff-C-IL

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    AHHC Specialist
    9230, 666, JD 7410, FNH 9030

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  1. Likely wouldn't have held up to ag use. The use requirements are very different. Industrial...short bursts of movement (think loader work). Ag-- long periods of full throttle pulling.
  2. Thanks! That will help tremendously. Wire colors, etc when talking on the phone. I was trying to help a guy troubleshoot his 1680 after putting a Headsight system on. So far we found the following: 1) Sensitivity pot is backwards (Max is Min) 2) Balance pot was backwards (he changed it). 3) Autolevel does not work. 4) power wire pin had poor connection. The crazy thing about this is, before we started, his 1020 head didn't work either. After fixing the above, now his 1020 head works flawlessly, but the Headsight interface he put on for the newer head doesn't....and it'd all weird stuff. Like: the balance pot works fine on the 1020, but on the newer system does nothing in the center 1/2 of its travel....and then goes all the way outside that. Yet none of those wires even touch the header. Stlll working on it.
  3. Was trying to help a owner of a 1660 combine, and his combine had different color wires of any of the schematics I have (which are for a 2388). Wondering if anyone out there has a decent scan of the 16xx field tracker system I can put in my "portfolio" ? Also, does anybody know if there are different versions from the start thru the 1688?
  4. Front tires look mighty good for sitting out 20 years!
  5. Does that rear main seal plate have chunks missing from it where the pan seals against it? That will certainly end up with oil all aver the clutch housing!
  6. I have to ask--does dropping that ring in hot water for 10 minutes make it easier to install??
  7. Almost always if you find a roll pin in the bottom of a tractor....somebody was working on it earlier, dropped the pin down inside, fished around, cussed, drove to the nearest dealer for a new one.....you get the picture! Of course, maybe this is this the roll pin that holds the spring that pushes the lower valve??? (May not even be a pin there, but always have to wonder!)
  8. I would recommend something better. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Hose-and-Hose-Assemblies/Hose-Clamps/ I've used these and highly recommend them. You weld the bottom plate onto whatever, then bolt on the rest. (I've also drilled and countersunk tapered screws into them to bolt them to concrete walls for fuel lines.) As far as the heavy metal "clamps", I think those are almost always made by the OE manufacturer. You would likely need to go thru "parts" on CIH, Westendorf, etc and look around until yuou find what you are looking for, then pay $$$ for a little piece of steel. McMaster Carr has these: https://www.mcmaster.com/pipe-clamps/routing-clamps/routing-clamps-8/ but their not real heavy.
  9. I was at a big consignment auction a couple weeks ago, every disk on the lot had at least the last 2 blades on the front outer gang tapered down. Sometimes the last three. Usually the back gangs were the same, or one less. I wonder if that is a soil type thing, as I've never seen a disk with the same size blades all the way out around here. That is a nice setup. Taper the last 2 blades on the front gangs down, and it should be even nicer!
  10. And that totally depends on the individual. I literally can't listen to music in a machine....I'm far to tuned in to the sounds as a mechanic (whats that rumble...thats new.) My son can in the combine and wouldn't notice if a belt was hitting the underside of the cab.
  11. I have no idea if this will help---but the last front axle I tried to move, I drilled a hole near the center of the casting thru just into the pin. Tapped it for 1/4" pipe plug with a good bottoming tap, then threaded in a fitting from a porta-power cylinder. Hooked the portapower up to it, and pumped oil into it. Amazing how easy it forced oil into the "frozen" pin. Still took a lot of work to get out, but at least there was oil permeating all the rust.
  12. McMaster Carr has a wide variety of all kinds of stuff... If you could post pictures and dimensions, we might be able to advise.
  13. That cab kinda makes me think of all the latest sci-fi. radar minimizing planes, etc. All angles. Fix it up, paint it flat black.....
  14. In the interest of figuring out whats going on with the "remote" leak, I'm posting these off CIH Parts Stuart---I think you mean your remote valve is leaking out of the hole in #1. That's a common leak point. As noted above, there have been some "farmer techs" who installed homemade case drains, by tapping that hole and piping it back to the tranny. That was never OEM. There is no other case drain on those valves. That may be where some of the argument is coming from. That same valve was used all over...I've rebuilt that valve on a 806, a 4386, a 666.....(at least I'm pretty sure the 806 was the same). If that valve is leaking there, then you need to disassemble the valve and replace #8 (or just the o-ring, its a "Dash 03" (tiny!) Replace orings #17 & 9 while you are at it too. Its actually easy to do, just don't loose the balls 5 & 6. You don't even need to remove the valve assembly, just unhook the lever, and screw off the entire can at the back---the piston comes out with the can. I just did this on my 666 a few months ago. I ordered my orings thru McMaster...I think 100 were like - $5. I can't help much about the pump seal, I never had mine apart. I agree that you need to check the suction tube. Maybe its time to lift the top off and really see what you got in there.
  15. Or - one mans treasure is "the kids who had to change oil in all of them" maintenance headache.
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