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Jeff-C-IL

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About Jeff-C-IL

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    N-C-IL
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    AHHC Specialist
    9230, JD 7410, FNH 9030

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  1. Jeff-C-IL

    Re-ring?

    Bon Ami works for a tractor that needs the rings 'seated', not sure it would help if the rings are stuck. I had a JD B that I rebuilt & could not get to stop smoking & fouling plugs. I held a handful of Bon Ami under the air intake, let it suck it in. and ran it for a while. Smoke & Plug fouling went away. Not sure I'd want to try that with a modern engine though!
  2. I wouldn't even be wasting my time. If you have buried AL wire, it needs to be replaced with copper. I would abandon the whole thing, and get a trencher to lay new black water pipe and wire. I've seen enough AL wire disasters and near disasters I won't use it for anything anymore. You poke a hole in the wire to test, you will have the same problem there in a few years.
  3. Yeah, cheap electronic switching power system. Basically, whats happening is they are using a really fast "frequency" to turn the power to the LED's on and off. This chops the "average" voltage down for the LED's, but also creates all kinds of high frequency noise--obviously in the RF (radio frequency) range. Its clearly radiating like a little antenna too, to affect your jobsite radio, not just the one on the tractor. Capacitors (which control this) are expensive, so are not used....and IDK what you could do to fix it, frankly, other than wrapping each light inside a metal cage, which kinda makes the lighting function not work....
  4. LEDs do produce heat, just not as much as a incandescent (halogen) bulb. Without getting into the actual physics....an LED is a "Light Emitting Diode". A diode is a made up of a "junction" between two different "doped" silicon materials (known as a PN junction), which only allows electricity to cross it in one direction. An LED is a special version on this that produces light when electricity flows across the junction. An LED is efficient at producing light, meaning that most of the energy flowing thru the junction is turned into light...but heat is also produced. I don't remember the exact figures, but as a rough guess, a halogen bulb may be 20% efficient vs an LED at 80%. The rest is usually heat. (You could say that an halogen light is a heater that happens to produce a little light, an LED is a light that produces a little heat.) A little LED indicator produces almost no heat. A tractor LED floodlight produces a significant amount of heat, which would destroy the "junction" if not removed quickly. So one of the big engineering challenges of high output LED bulbs is to get that heat out of the junction ASAP. Super smooth aluminum substrates (Microns!), heat transfer systems, etc. That's why every LED bulb is basically a chunk of glass stuck on the front of an aluminum heat sink, and sometimes they have copper braids or such to get more 'radiator" surface. Having said all that, usually that aluminum heat sink just gets "slightly warm"... the need to get the heat away fast means you need a pretty good chunk of stuff to absorb it, but its not all that much heat in total. The units run WAY cooler than a halogen inside that metal light housing on your fender, so I wouldn't worry about that at all! An LED "junction" actually runs at ~2V. They can be connected in series to accept higher voltages. Most LED 'auto' lights are made up of lots of LEDs packed in together. Yes, there are electronics to cut the voltage down, which does produce heat, and yes, you get what you pay for. Its likely not a transformer, its a switching power circuit, but same basic idea. Cheap electronics can fail, create noise, etc. ( I've had LED "house" bulbs blow just like the old "curly" florescents....short pop sizzle ...fry...die! ) That is a very basic overview...and maybe technology has moved some of the "values" since I studied it. But the basics are the same...LED's are way more efficient, run much cooler, and give off more light than Halogen bulbs. However they still need cooling airflow and that may need to be considered. And yes, you can only hook them up one way.
  5. VERY difficult. There is already the crank driven OEM hydraulic pump on those tractors, so adding another one in that spot would be hard. I added a belt drive pump and tank for running a hydraulic sprayer pump to my 4386, but that meant no A/C, as the belts wouldn't pull both. Adding a "wet kit" off the tranny means its not live, only runs while the clutch is out...so trying to slowly pull along a semi while the auger carts runs would be nearly impossible. Yeah, mount a 3.9 Cummins on the front of the cart with a clutch and gearbox...be way easier.
  6. Left hand drill bits and careful centering. a left had bit will try to screw the threads out for you, often you will be drilling down in, and all the sudden it will screw right out. I really like the Dremel tool idea for tough ones...take some time but....
  7. I would pull that 66 series tractor in in a year to check it. Just from the looks of what you have, I would say there is algae growing in that transmission, and its going to come back. I've never heard of that before, but that's the only thing I can think of that would make that kind of clumpy junk....just dirt will not. Dirt would just cake in a layer. It looks like what I've seen when algae grows in a water cooling system for generators, or in diesel fuel! I've seen old tractors that have not been changed in a long time, and the oil is yellow snot....but its smooth. I've never seen any that clumped like that. My guess is you are going to have to pull that tractor completely apart, including the differential, clean & flush every part, and reassemble with fresh oil to solve the problem. Sincerely hope I'm wrong.
  8. Hmmm... several comments on here about using a grease zerk. Has anybody tried one of those "zerk clearing" tools that you fill with penetrating oil, attach to a grease zerk, and hit with a hammer to drive the stuff in? Might be a reason to try one if they work! My other thought is....1/4" pipe thread tapped into the outer sleeve, screw in a fitting, attach a hydraulic hose and plug it into a tractor and put 2500psi oil on the job. MIght force some oil into the area?
  9. Its NOT moving.... not a single mm! 10T portapower on the top...maxed out. 20 ton jack on the bottom, lots of force, wood is crushing. Chisels wedging the clamp apart--its clearly "loose" on the bottom side.. Ive been soaking this with PBBlaster for about 3 weeks now. Earlier, I had a 3x3 x 6ft box iron chained to the knee, with a comealong hooked on the end back to the rear axle trying to twist it. Bent the box iron! I had a gas heater underneath it for 2 hours, it was hot enough you didn't want to touch it, sprayed in lots of PB while it heated and cooled. Oh, and took it out with no bolts in and drop in circles in the corn field..... The weird thing is the other side didn't even have to use a hammer...just loosened the bolts and slid it out by hand. Always gotta be ONE! Any suggestions from those of you who have had a "toughy"?
  10. Can you get premade stainless steel brake lines? I replaced my rusted lines on my GMC pickup with a stainless steel prebent package, I think it was only $90 or so, wish I'd known about them earlier. From now on, any brake line work I do will be stainless....IMO they should be legally required OEM on all modern vehicles. I mean, come on...all the safety s*** they demand today and then still use plain old steel pipes to the brakes?? SS probably be $10 more per car.
  11. So close....that site actually comes closer than anything else I found, but the closest Center bushing they have is for either a .85 or 1.12 hole, and they are too tall. It would take a little work, but I'll bet one could make the 1.12" one work though...and a $7 a piece, way better than $75.
  12. Well, I found 1 of the 5 that was intact enough to get "close" measurements. See attached. These are the 5 that fit the flat part of the platform. The larger tractors use 6 I believe. The 666 has 2 smaller ones that fit on each side of the steering column too. Those fit a 3/4" instead of 1" hole They were totally missing, so no measurements. Anyway, I've not been able to find anything even close online. Looked up lots of rubber bushings, vibrations mounts, etc....only thing I've found is RedRunRite.com has that one package of the larger ones and all new sleeves, etc. for the larger tractors. Pretty good value, I guess. I'd lathe myself some, but not sure how you would turn rubber....!
  13. I'm pretty sure there is a IH bulletin or such on flywheel cracking...I remember seeing an official looking page detailing the flywheel cracks and when to use or replace. It boiled down to radial cracks are fine, cracks going around are not. But I agree, thats a LOT of cracks.
  14. I've been trying to find the platform iso-mounts for a 666 as well, after my dealer quoted me $75 each. So far, no luck at all. I've looked at a bunch of "rubber" companies, apparently similar things come in "sizes"...#1 is 0.75", #2 is a 1.25"....etc. Of course, the IH ones are a 1" hole....and nobody seems to make that. McMaster Carr, Fastenal, etc just carry the "sizes". You might try https://www.redrunrite.com/ , They have a $90 kit for the platform isomounts for the larger tractors like yours, may be they got something for the column??
  15. Thanks, it not obvious! That still leaves a lot of oil in the bottom, enough to obscure the linkages, etc. The "remnant" is pretty gross cause it doesn't get circulated or drained. Thats what I "blew" out.
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