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About Jeff-C-IL

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    AHHC Specialist
    9230, JD 7410, FNH 9030

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  1. Jeff-C-IL

    656 vs 706 hydraulicly

    For something as "small" as a hydraulic cylinder or 2, the relief pressure is more important than the flow rate. Sure it may be a bit slower to raise, etc, but it works ok as long as you have the pressure to lift the weight. Higher flow rates are more important when using orbit motors. Put a 2000 psi relief in both the 706 & 656 and either one will work better than the 706 now!
  2. Jeff-C-IL

    1955 Farmall 300 Utility Question

    Just guessing, but older tractors you typically add oil through a fill/level plug on the side. Add till it runs back out the plug. I never did figure out how they expect you to do this neatly. Did they used to have some kinda special oil can that made this easy? And, of course, they always have something above the plug that prevents you from tipping a funnel/jug up to actually pour oil in.... Top fill so much better.
  3. Jeff-C-IL

    656 vs 706 hydraulicly

    Dry & Liquid fertilizer can add a LOT of weight to a planter. A 4 row, though, should be fine. I pulled a 8r wide with liquid with my 806, I did have to swap the cartridge out to the next higher pressure one. I actually tried to pull that planter one time with the old 400---it just wouldn't quite lift it. 4 row/400 no problem! Hopefully somebody with experience on the 656 will speak up here, but I can't imagine that you wouldn't be fine. GOOD LUCK and have fun!
  4. Jeff-C-IL

    4586: A Rebuild/Repair

    Last time I went thru that auction place over in St Annes IL, I think he had a couple parted in the "back lot". Don't have a clue if he sells parts or keeps then to fix up stuff he sells. Looking good! I assume you are gonna put a Fehr cab kit in this? If so, see if you can get the stuff preglued to plastic backing. I found it way easier to install than raw foam the last cab I did. Worth the extra $$$. They may not have it for all machines, though.
  5. Jeff-C-IL

    Whats another one to the pile....

    I have to ask does that super short axle affect the steering cut at all? I've never seen on of those before. Pretty wild looking--especially that you could get "extenders" to add to it. That had to be a weak point. Did they discontinue it by the 66 series?
  6. Jeff-C-IL

    1086 Bearing Running Clearance

    Do NOT trust the readings on the 86 series gauges. I had to replace several senders over the years. First, plumb in a manual gauge. If the pressure still reads low, then start looking for where the pressure is dropping. As noted, Cam bearings are the common spot. I've told this story before, but one day I put my very non-mechanical son in my 4386 to run it for a while. An hour later, I went out to check on him, and saw a red light on the dash...."Oh yeah, that came on a couple round ago but nothing seemed to be a problem, so I just kept going". It was the oil pressure idiot light. I looked down and the gauge was sitting at 0. HEART ATTACK.... Engine shut off time ~ 1 second! I ran up and got a mechanical oil gauge and fittings and attached it to the block...started her up and .....40PSI! BOTH the pressure sender AND the idiot light switch sensor had failed within a few minutes. I had to replace both of them...then the light went out and the gauge read pressure again. Somehow the cost of those sensors didn't seem too bad.... Needless to say I had a 'discussion' about what to do when the oil pressure light comes on on ANY vehicle!
  7. Jeff-C-IL

    4586: A Rebuild/Repair

    I looked thru all my pictures and I don't have a single one that shows the parking brake. The one I posted earlier showing the side rails is the closest, it shows the release lever mounted on the side of the console , but not the actual pedal. I made a bracket very similar to #3 in the CIH Parts page for the later s/n pictures, and bolted the auto unit to that like it was bolted to the door column on the car. I angled it a bit so you pushed down and out, more natural that way. It has to sit so the cable can drop straight out the floor, IIRC I had to plan the bracket so that the cable missed the under cab framing and also the main tractor frame. Mine had a release cable and "knob" which I mounted up on the side of the dash---way easier than bending way over to pull it. I used mine all the time while hooking up--its the only way to keep the tractor from rolling slightly when you stop. Back up to the implement just beside the hitch, clutch and brake, take it out of gear, release clutch, set parking brake, release brake, go back and swing the tongue over into the implement hitch, swear cause you are 1" off. Climb back in , repeat process.... If you don't set the parking brake, the tractor just rolls right back to the initial position as soon as you let go of the brake. Something about tire elasticity, ground compression, etc....just know it always did it! The old seat was OK until the shock failed. Then it was like riding the bull! I found a used seat out of a NH Genesis. Rough but the air ride part worked and it swiveled. It was larger than the old one and I had to remove the buddy seat I build. (nothing fancy, 2x2s, plywood, and cushions).
  8. Jeff-C-IL

    56 /66 / 86 Series Tractors w/ differential locks

    Semi-mount plowing. On land wheel would start spinning--you hit the brake to stop it, then the diff lock to keep it from starting in again. Or backing into the stack gates thru 2" deep mud feeding the cows.....or when the loader bucket was full of crap cleaning off the concrete feedlot. Lots of places it was useful. Not so much in modern crop farming where you pull everything. The only trouble I ever had with the diff lock on the 1066 or 1486 was the time we forgot about the snap ring on the left side when trying to pull the cross shaft out, and busted the right side carrier plate in two because we used a bar on it. My stupidity.
  9. Jeff-C-IL

    Cyclo 800 Hydraulic Pump question

    Only reason for the 540 was for tractors that didn't have 1000. The whole point is just to create enough airflow to hold the seeds firmly in the drum and blow them out the tubes. Too much pressure and you blow seeds out of the trench. My pump is off a Cyclo 500 8r, and looks like a large PS pump off a car. MUCH lighter than the 540's. Think its the same one used on the later planters; not positive, but shouldn't matter. It was starting to leak a little around the shaft, but it ran the blower just fine when I removed it 3 years ago. Only reason I stopped using it was I traded off my 806 for a tractor w/ PFC hydraulics. Took a walk out back for some exercise--still spins over smooth and looks clean and oily inside. I'm near Wenona, 3+ hours from Quincy. Bit of a drive for a pump that may or may not work, or may need some repairs. Still, not doing me any good in the scrap if you drive up this way. Send me a PM if you wish!
  10. Jeff-C-IL

    1586 Data Center Aggrivation

    COuld simply be the voltage was still low. SOme circuitry can do crazy stuff when running a 8-10V , instead of 12. Wait until the batteries are fully charged, then recheck.
  11. Jeff-C-IL

    Cyclo 800 Hydraulic Pump question

    Just make sure whatever you get you plumb in a adjustable flow bypass (like you already said) to dump the excess. IDK where you are, but I have a 1000 pump laying out back that worked just fine when I took it off. It could use a new input 1000 sleeve as the splines are work pretty good. I'm running a more modern tractor now, so the outlets work better. If you are anywhere close to N-C IL, and could swing by, I'd hand it to you! Course, its been sitting out in the snowbank for a few years, so who knows.
  12. Jeff-C-IL

    5240 WILL NOT MOVE

    Likely a break in the C connection internally. Warms up and they expand enough to reconnect. Replace it. However, I doubt this is causing the no shift problem if they are truly just suppression diodes. Could be though...never know with modern "check circuit" software.
  13. Jeff-C-IL

    4586: A Rebuild/Repair

    Keep the stories and pictures coming! I agree that you get what you pay for with LED lights. The difference in price is usually in the heatsink, quality of the actual LED emitters, and the lens. And of course the lumen rating. I found that 2500 lumen lights work well for primary light for ag equipment, 800 or 1200 for work lights (like on the unloader spout of a combine). I've got a couple 3500 lumens on a loader tractor....BLINDING! Since I also don't run that often at night, I've used these on several pieces of equipment, including the 43. They have held up real well, never had one fail yet. Only problem I found was slight yellowing of the lenses after 2 years sitting out. They also keep the look...very similar in size to the OEM. On the 9500 combine I bought recently, I went with the TigerLights cause they fit right in. The driveline---I was warned about that by both the owner and the Local IH service gurus (very experienced 20+ year techs who have since retired). I think the angles don't quite work out right because of how the rear ends sit in there. I also checked it out and could not find any problem with timing, etc. Its obvious --the tractor started almost shaking at 2600 rpm/5 mph when turning, slow it down to 2100 and its goes away. Hopefully yours will be different. If you can find a replacement caliper....Please share it on here! I did a bunch of searching online and at shops, but never found anything close. I had a couple guys tell me it was an IH or GM truck part....but could never find anything close in either search. I'm sure you gotta find the right guy! My tractor was loud because of transmission whine. At 2600 rpm it could get .... shrill. Pretty sure it was the Low speed countershaft gears- in 6th gear it went away, but I never had the power to run in 6th. Of course, mine had 4500 hours too. The Dynamat should help a lot! IDK if you still have the original seat in that, but its just a coil spring with a shock. Sorta like my dads 400! The shock went bad and from then on it was.... "bouncy"...... CIH wanted WAY too much for a new shock, so I put in a used air suspension seat. Much nicer ride. I figure thats probably already on your list, but just a suggestion. One other mod I did to mine was I took the parking brake pedal assembly out of a car (78 Olds IIRC) and mounted it to the left of the clutch. Let me remove the hand brake lever & put in a little buddy seat for the kids. Am really looking forward to seeing how you make the RH console, etc!.
  14. Jeff-C-IL

    706 shifting issues

    AH, forgot about that...last ones of these I worked on were 86 series, and those are easier to get at. Weird thing is--we pulled the tranny several times on the 1066 for the TA, but just don't remember the steering "column" ever being an issue. Thinking back, I think we just lifted it enough to slide the tranny out under it.
  15. Jeff-C-IL

    4586: A Rebuild/Repair

    Boy this all sounds REAL familiar. Mine was a 4386, but also a early SN - 763. Otherwise, a dead ringer--even down to the funky white light in the cab and the leaking master cylinder. (BTW--that is a common Master you can cross parts for online, IIRC the seal kit on Amazon was about $30). Flush the brake fluid before it ruins the brake calipers---HARD to find! They don't want to stop too good w/o brakes! I just pulled the whole front & Engine when I rebuilt the clutch (Twice) on mine. Dad just could not keep from revin' her up and popping the clutch--he actually got the center carrier plate so hot it snapped in two. As you know, these old girls have TRACTION...and its pretty easy to fry the clutch. After the second clutch job, the clutch never went in or out without 1) the implement being out of the ground & 2) the engine at or near idle. Obviously you know how to adjust these clutches, so you are ahead there. ONE CAUTION- NEVER EVER turn with the motor reved up, you will toss the lower front driveshaft off the brake disk. Always use the decelerator to knock a couple 100 RPM off when turning. The tractor will let you know: if its starts vibrating while turning you need to slow down! Grease the driveshafts daily. I had a complete Chassis service manual...went with the tractor when I sold it. I still have some wiring schematic PDF's if you are interested. I added a boost and EGR gauge set to mine and it made a HUGE difference in how I drove the tractor--no more lugging, etc. I realize the 800 is a very different engine than the 466, but I found that if you pulled the throttle back until the boost just started falling off, the tractor would just eat ground, but go easy on fuel. The batteries are really not bad at all. Just crank the steering over, and its actually pretty easy to get to them...way easier than a 1066 with Hiniker cab..... The front one is a bit of a stretch, but they are secure, protected, and out of the way. If anything, run a set of "charge points" out to where its easy to hook up booster cables, like the newer machines. As I mentioned before, replace the Lights with LED. Your wiring & switches will thank you for it. Also, see that set of hearing protectors on the shifter? You'll need them, the tranny gets a bit noisy under load! I made a oil tank to mount under the front end, and had a pump that drove off the A/C belt. Used it to run a hydraulic sprayer pump. Tank is still sitting out back somewhere - If your interested PM me. We once had the main pressure hose to the valve block blow....emptied 40gal of oil everywhere--in seconds I always wanted to move the muffler to the fender, but eventually grew to like that rugged looking hood. What I love about the 4x4 design, is the tractor goes exactly where you point the sliding, jinking, bouncing front end.....and it turns WAY sharper than the FWA. Takes a little getting used to, but I think you will really like it. No way will I ever go back to a FWA. Lets put it this way, I had a JD 8270R a couple years. (Long story). Front suspension, all the bells and whistles, auto downshift. Sold it and bought a CIH 9230 4x4 to replace the 4386. The only thing I miss is the auto downshift (Lazy!). Anyway, great thread!