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Jeff-C-IL

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    N-C-IL
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    AHHC Specialist
    9230, 666, JD 7410, FNH 9030

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  1. Anybody who has worked in a engineering job for a big company can pretty much guess what happened here. The design engineer(s) at IH wanted to "do it right" and provide separate pump systems for 3pt & remotes, allowing things like remote flow to a motor while lifting the planter, etc. They even got so far as to design the passages into the castings to make this happen. "See - it can be an option!" The accountants (CEO types) said - that will cost too much. So the head engineer put the brakes on that project. Then, once the project was definitely killed, & production of the one-pump design was happening, the casting designs were modified to remove the second port.
  2. As far as width - on any drill/planter you must always add the "pass to pass" measurement to the working width. 12 x 7" = 84" + another 7" to the next pass (or you can think of this as 3.5" more on each end of the drill) 84" x 7" = 91" So if you drive perfectly, your drill will cover 91" width each pass. Most guys will probably call that a 8' drill!
  3. Likely combine, but some older loaders were single acting lift, bucket double acting.
  4. Aaaach. Where was this thread when I was trying to run down parts! My Caliper and piston were shot - but $700 looks like a deal compared to what I paid for a used one. If anybody ever can cross this to a standard OEM - its probably some obscure $250 truck part....
  5. How the heck does a tractor get THAT sunk into the ground? Flooding? Ants? Attempted burial?
  6. I've seen a few engines where the coil, condenser, or mag would work until you tried to increase speed - then cut out. Try hooking a timing light to a wire and see if it keeps flashing when you increase RPM. Weird problem, I know. Just an idea!
  7. Think of it as a permanent factory update. Cut this little trim piece off to allow a major upgrade. No brainer- unless your tractor is being some kind of "all original mint". For instance, I would not want to cut anything on that untouched 100 hour JD 4440 Kinze has in his museum!
  8. Not sure I ever looked at or checked into the relief pressure. Likely the same as the 66/86 series, but that's in a separate section. I will be curious to see what the OP finds when he digs into this.
  9. Snoshoe - My early s/n 4386 had the 06 style ones on it. No idea why. OP also has an early unit. Either way, once he gets it apart, he should be able to figure out what he has, and fix it!
  10. Yeah. its access for the screw, but if you plug that hole, oil can build up behind the spool and can prevent function. The little tiny o-ring on the pin is leaking for oil to get to there. Some guys have made "bleeder" tubes - screw in a fitting and run a tiny oil line back down into the rear end. Better to just fix it! That o-ring is a #2 or #3 o-ring from McMaster-Carr - I bought a 100 of them for $10 or so. IIRC, CIH only sells you the pin w/ o-ring for ....more.
  11. Yeah, looking closer at the attached valve diagram that is the later one. Mine were actually like this picture - the 806 version. Some subtle differences around the # 2-14. Same basic concept. As I recall, the last time I worked on one of these, I didn't even remove the block from the tractor. I simply unhooked the linkage, and screwed the entire 1-15 off, slide it out of the block with the spool. Took that assembly in to the workbench. Replaced # 9 oring in the block on the tractor. Reassembled and slid it back in. Took about an hour total..... OH- one warning - Do NOT bend the #15 tube with a big pliers , vice, or pipe wrench. If you need to grip it, have the #1 plug in place and squeeze right over the treads. IIRC, before removing the assembly, I put a big socket over #1, then hit it with a hammer a couple times - that gives enough purchase on the tube for the socket to loosen the tube off the block, not just screw out #1.
  12. My early 4386 had one of these fail eaten up by corrosion - (Change your fluid regularly to prevent moisture buildup!) I looked for weeks to find a replacement, finally bought a "good used" one - cost me $1000. Pretty sure you could fix yours if it isn't corroded. Seals and orings. Take it apart - what Have you got to lose? Good luck.
  13. You may be incorrect on the "same as the 1066", etc. My 4386 had the same valves as the 806. Yes, I've had them apart - they are really easy to repair if you take your time and work an a secure flat pan to prevent losing the little balls! I've linked in the parts explosion from the CIH website. I think this is a later version, as my early 4386 did not have the 19-25 parts, IIRC. Don't bother with a rebuild kit, you just need a couple o-rings. All easily available from CIH or McMaster-Carr. The key piece of knowledge on these is Remove the linkage Unscrew the tube and cap (1-15) as one piece, and pull the entire cap, tube and spool out of the body as one piece Disassemble the cap and tube and spool on the afore mentioned secure "pan" to catch any little parts. The only real hard part was the tiny oring around the #8 pin, and getting the balls all seated and working properly (adjust the kickout by turning screw #2)
  14. Hey, I was going off memory on this - and my memory is notoriously mixed up on any thing except combine AHC wiring! Maybe someone else can give definite answer??
  15. Thats one style I haven't seen before! I was thinking more of these......Aeroquip.
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