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    AHHC Specialist
    9230, 666, JD 7410, FNH 9030

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  1. OK, I VERY seldom go randomly looking on Ebay, but this turned up on a IH tractor search and its too "Cute" not to share: https://www.ebay.com/itm/164990284802?hash=item266a2ff402:g:LkgAAOSwzeRhBWYG
  2. DOn't forget that same filter can be used on the later tractors with the "Cap" that needs the big O-ring.
  3. That should be OK. Not sure about the quality, would prefer https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1404/Solenoids/&Coil-Type=Grounded-Coil&Nominal-Voltage=12V myself. (If you can trust a name brand any more). Not that expensive so if it fries on you its not that big a loss either. Your starter is considered "intermittent duty", so a continuous duty is "better". You have to be careful to not use an intermittent solenoid in place of a continuous solenoid, but can use a continuous in place of Intermittent. Looks like you melted the contacts - not the coil. The contacts are not "voltage specific" (just a big switch) so either they got worn until they arced, or your starter is drawing too much current. A starter with a bad brush can actually pull more current, but you should also see a more sluggish turn-over.
  4. Well, the ODB is the Light switch. no clue on the others, sorry.
  5. a - advance r -retard 0 (TDC) should be in between. It should be marked with a 0 or a long scribe. I've seen engines with +/- 30 marked, I've also seen 30 BTDC to 10 ATDC, so don't assume its centered. So I have no idea the correct timing, but you need to get a timing light on it and adjust it for the correct timing. Most engines are typically in the 10-20 deg BTDC.
  6. Just glancing at the pics earlier, I thought that was the front of the valve section, with the spool sticking out. Nope...the remote spool is shown to the far left edge of the picture, the snapring is on another section - possibly the Draft Control?
  7. You guys are too funny! Like the old gag: Texas Oil man walks into the car dealership and goes over to the old gentleman who runs the place. "I want to buy Cadillac". Certainly sir, which Model? "All of them on your lot!" Old guy falls on the ground holding his heart. After the Paramedics get him stabilized the Oil man apologizes for the shock. "Not at all sir. I can live with shocks like that. I may not live through them...but I can live with them!
  8. One for work, one for parts.....
  9. The early 4386 did indeed have the 3 1/4" axles. I had one. Essentially the 986/1066 rear end, with a special pinion and faceplate. If the pinion & ring rear in the 4386 is the problem, a differnt rear end would not help. The only part I had problems finding was the brake calipers. I never had to touch the rear ends.
  10. I very carefully did not adjust mine! Take a picture of where it is in the spool body before you remove it (if you have to). Start with it back right there. I'm sure there is some kind of spec, but practically you simply tighten the screw until it stays indented until the cylinder hits the end of stroke and then pops off. Also not so tight that it is hard to get the lever out of indent. Its not like you are gonna destroy anything carefully playing with the screw until you get it to work right. Hopefully someone better informed will chime in with better instructions.
  11. Turning the screw is not gonna do anything for you. That is only how you set detent tension While I'm not sure about the snap ring (mine didn't have that, IIRC, the entire valve can be disassembled from the back. This has actually been discussed many times on here - that leak is common. There are a couple different variations, I've attached a example form a later model that shows the typical spool, pin, detent balls, etc. You have to screw the entire back "tube" off the cast block. Not just the big nut (1), but the tube (15) behind the nut too - AS A UNIT. This contains the entire latching mechanism. The spool itself slides out the back along with the tube assembly. There is a couple o-rings left in the main body to replace, everything else is in the tube/spool. Then carry the tube/nut/spool assembly over to the workbench. You have to disassemble it all the way down (don't loose the balls!) , including screwing the spool sections apart (10, 18), to where WAY down in the middle there is a tiny pin (8) with a #003 tiny oring on it. That oring is what is leaking out your rear weep hole. You can't get them separate at CIH, gotta buy the whole pin. You can buy a 100 orings at McMaster Carr for less! Replace any other orings in there, of course. Its not really that hard---after the first time! As my IH guy said..."I can spend 30 minutes telling you how to fix it, or 15 minutes fixing it."
  12. OH, NICE! Thats a sweet looking rig. Even with the flames. As far as the brake springs - I ordered springs for my 666 Brake lock mechanism from McMaster-Carr. Just take an old spring and measure overall length, diameter, and the wire diameter. You will be able to get something pretty close. For LOTS cheaper that the OEM - I think I bought a bag of 5 for $20. Its a simple tension spring....absolutely no need to stick to OEM. If you have any confusion, post the dimensions on here and we can help you with some suggestions.
  13. ? You are pretty brave to haul that thing with the stack of blocks....my luck the blocks would have bounced loose and dropped on the road.... Even that 806 rear end is got a nice feature or two - the solid cast wheels w/step up wedges, and rear entry cab were all unknown in my area.
  14. DO you actually use this full of grain? I have a 500bu grain cart & a 666.....and I never even considered using the 666 on the cart. The hitch on the cart, both the top & bottom of the U is almost as thick and 2x as wide as the drawbar on the tractor! I pull it with a JD 7410 (120 hp, more like a 1066), and that's marginal on my flat terrain, IMO. Curious if you find this works for you?
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