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Jeff-C-IL

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    N-C-IL
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    AHHC Specialist
    9230, 666, JD 7410, FNH 9030

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  1. Fast hitch PLOW - then use the disk! Using a disk on sod makes a big mess. The other option is to spray the area with a non-selective herbicide, wait for the sod to die, then disk it about 10 times.
  2. Had one on both our 1066 & our OC 1486. Same kit. Basically those 2 tractors were identical under the skin - same basic driveline, same pumps, same hydraulics....
  3. If it had just locked in gear, I would say you just need to get everything back into neutral. The fact that you had already lost 3, 4......I'm thinking you have a rail/fork problem internally and one of those gears has managed to "engage". So you are locked into both 1 & 4 for example. My guess is that you will need to remove the top cover and get everything back where it belongs. This can be done without removing the cab - just the floorplate & seat as noted above. I hope I'm wrong.
  4. Also install the dual filter add on. More GPM means more filtration needed.
  5. Take a look at Westendorf. The WL series were great loaders.
  6. While I generally agree with most comments above that it is "unlikely" to cause more problems.....it IS cracked thru, and IS weaker than it was. Ask what will be the worst result if the entire hub suddenly lets go. If you plan to keep the tractor on the place, your ground is generally flat, and all you are planning to use it for is low speed hay work: worst result is probably a sinking feeling and some down time. Do you do a lot of road travel at full throttle? I've talked to a few guys who have had a tire or rim blow on the road..... you DON'T WANT THAT! One of my local buddies almost went over the edge of a bridge. Farm on some steep hillsides? Hub breaks on downhill side (that's when its loaded sideways heavy) - and your tractor rolls down the hill - sideways. I would not panic by any means....I would also actively be looking for a replacement hub. Oh - and if you can possibly afford it, trot on over to Marshall, Indiana and get and Iron Bull roll bar. Its only 100 miles! BTW - the comment above about the cracked spoke on a punch press flywheel nearly scared the crap outta me just hearing about it. I know exactly what he is referring to....and the thought of one of those huge flywheels suddenly flying off at 1000+ RPM and bouncing around inside a machine shop..... Lets just say that if I knew about that and was in the building when they started it up, I would likely leave the building, and the parking lot, and stay at least 1-2 miles away.
  7. Twine balers knotters - so much fun. One thing often missed is how the hay is fed. A very light windrow may tie vary differently than a heavy one. A misadjusted feed that leaves one side of the bale lighter (banana bales!) may cause the light or heavy side to tie better or worse. A consistent windrow with a nice square bale results in the best tie results (usually). Any good baler manual should give you suggestions on what might be wrong for specific problems. As Snoshoe points out above, look at your ties (even the ones that work) and compare them to the manual. Usually can figure out what needs to be adjusted. "All twine"......HAH. Bunch of baloney. A baler knotter works best on the twine it is adjusted for. We don't bale any more, but Dad always insisted on actual Lincoln 7200 sisal baler twine - and even then we would pull out the first 20' or so (the kinky bit in the middle never tied well.) Say what you will - we always had fewer knotter problems with that twine than any other brand. Having said all that - we had two identical balers in a row - the first one never tied worth a crap no matter what you did.....we bought the next one cheap on an auction and it tied very well (except for the first 20' of twine).
  8. Matt is generally right. Is the clutch return spring working? If the pedal does not fully return, try pulling up on the pedal and see if the rattle stops. If so, likely the throwout bearing. If not, then it could be any of the transmission gears/bearings. Does anything change if you move the 1-4 to different gears (leave the Hi/LO in neutral)?
  9. I would point out that at least some of the options on a Red Power were available normally. Our 1486 had the red seat, the red cab interior with carpet, the extra fender lights, the 8 track, but was not Red Power. Did not have the sun visor! Built during that time frame as well. This tractor had differential lock, dealer installed Dual PTO, 3pt, 2 remotes. Sold for $16K last summer on an auction when the neighbor who purchased it from us died unexpectedly (sudden heart attack).
  10. Completely turn the baler and knotting mechanism over by hand before attempting to run it. Timing is critical on any baler.....a broken chain replaced without timing the gears can result in broken twine arms or worse. If you can rotate the baler by hand thru the entire cycle, then you should be able to safely run it. That said, I'm only used to NH balers.
  11. I once cultivated with a Oliver 1755 with the steering motor misadjusted. You needed to slowly & constantly rotate the wheel to the right to stay straight. Needless to say it was rather fun staying on the row. For those who have never run a row crop cultivator .... "And you think you know how to drive a tractor...HAH!"😁
  12. I thought they ALL did that....at least our 806, 1066, 1486, 666, 4386, & 9230......all took/take a couple seconds after startup to prime and build pressure to the steering! Now if its 30 seconds you may have an issue....
  13. Thanks all - Shoup is fairly close and had what I needed - don't know why didn't think to look there!
  14. So I'm working on a project, and I could use some heavy square U bolts (5/8"). I thought I could get some on McMaster-Carr, but they don't have any that heavy. I found 1 square u-bolt in my bolt bins - its for bolting something to a 4x4 box, so its about 4" x 5.5" x 5/8" - perfect for what I need. Its also clearly IH red (or was). Thing is, I can't figure out where it would have come from. IDK of anything on the old Cyclo 400, 500, or tractors that would have had that u-bolt. Maybe came in a box of junk on an auction? Anybody got any ideas what this IH U-bolt may have been from, so I can look it up as a part?
  15. Check to make sure its not cracked, but that only looks a little bent. I had a hay wagon this happened to. Put a couple nuts on the threaded part (to protect threads), then slid a long pipe over the nuts and carefully pushed down on the pipe. (May have to tap the pipe above the nuts. Do a little at a time!) Got it back pretty close. Still running today. The point about the thrust bearing is valid---need to fix that.
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