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Jeff-C-IL

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    N-C-IL
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    AHHC Specialist
    9230, 666, JD 7410, FNH 9030

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  1. I hate to be a negative kinda guy..... and I REALLY like your work on that pin.....But Did you consider that the pin was worn, but the holes in the pedal were not (or minimal)? You used a lawnmower blade to make a new pin....will the harder pin now wear the pedal out instead? (I realize you may not be suing this daily!) Pins/bolts are easy to change - holes in parts less so. I always use the softest bolt I think will not break, for that exact reason. I have a disk ripper that does a beautiful job, but is almost ready to be retired for scrap, because the sheer bolt holes are worn and egged from previous owner using too hard of sheer bolts. Everything is welded to the main frame, there is no clearance to drill out or weld up the holes.
  2. Does not look like it has the Backhoe on, did you get that separate or is it missing?
  3. Had a 1486 did the same thing - would drain the battery in2-3 days.. Was internal. Tested the plug, 12V on Battery pin, the keyed 12V turned on & off. Sent it off again...that time it was fixed.
  4. Here is about the only picture I took of the cab interior showing the blower on my early 4386. I don't think your 4366 above is much different. A pice that covered the main blower area. Another with stitched edges that covered the drop lid. You had to cut out for the radio, etc. which I did a really bad job of. IIRC, the actual roof had several sublayers, and then one that covered the top frame and the sublayers. There were also small pieces that covered the fuse panel under the dash, the firewall, etc, even weird little pieces to cover the sides of the "steering motor box" under the dash. If you have any specific questions about any area, please ask, it may jog my memory
  5. I installed a Fehr cab kit on the 4386. Helped significantly. I would think if you wanted to go the second mile and add dynamat under the floormat, that would be a big improvement. I know mine it was the tranny gear squeal....open the rear cab window and about blow your eardrums. I ended up with a pair of good earmuffs hung on the Hi/Lo lever, very rarely ran without them on. Now I use them on the X-Mark.
  6. Not sure exactly how a straight pipe might harm an engine? Should just lower temps slightly from free flow exhaust. Wil harm your ears though unless you a diligent with those headsets. Actually I did read a VERY interesting book about sizing exhausts once (back in the 460/454 days) - where a properly sized exhaust results in a moving column of air that almost self-scavenges the engine. While too small of pipe results in high back-pressure, too large a pipe actually results in a column that just starts/stops - also raising back pressure! Made a lot of sense, as it follows basic principles of fluid motion. But this was on the topic of large gas engines and longer exhausts (like a RV). I doubt if its very applicable to 3' long straight pipes out the top! It does make me laugh whenever I see one of those teenagers with the 6" exhaust pipe on their jacked up PU though!
  7. Yes I did.....a 1970 truck w/automatic? Thought never crossed my mind! I assume you would have to rev it up in neutral until the Torque Converter starts spinning the internals.
  8. These units are a simple slide gear. They are either meshing or not, the lever moves the gear into mesh. If you carefully push in the pedal while the engine is running, in neutral, clutch released, you should feel the gears start hitting (ie grinding!) If you feel the gears, the output shaft should spin with the lever pushed, clutch released. If you don't feel any gears, The only thing I could think of is the lever is not working to move the gear---not sure I've ever heard of that happening--these are pretty simple. If the shaft is spinning and you don't get any movement in the bed hoist, then you need to look at the lift/release knob/lever/whatever it is for the hydraulic dump valve.
  9. You can take the motors completely apart, soak the bronze bushings in oil overnight - and it may last another month. Never been able to really "restore" one if the bushings are dry and they get bound up. Hope its just wiring.
  10. There you go....my dad always set the 3pt off to one side when cutting for the same reason. I would think 1/4" x 2" would be fine. You might want to to make the bar a T by welding a 1/4 x 1/2" (or so) along the side in the middle (prevent bending). Make sure that the front of the bar is on the same pin as the front of the 3pt arm as shown above, so it does not bind as you raise & lower the 3pt. If you wanted to make the bar somewhat adjustable, you could use 2 "halves" that lay over each other, with 2-3 bolts thru slotted holes. Would not need to weld the T in for strength then.
  11. I just happen to know.....that the person who setup Porch's website moved on to another job, and Janet & Eric simply haven't had an opportunity recently to update the site. All you good folks are keeping them REALLY busy building tractor harnesses! I'll mention this to Eric next time I see him.
  12. Porch's often do "non-listed" harnesses. I was in the shop the other day and they had a big box labeled 4166 - clear full of a old harness set somebody wanted duplicated.
  13. YOu are not getting 12V to the dash (I assume you mean the tach, not the gauges, etc)....it has both battery and keyed 12V. Possibly your cab solenoid is not working (check inside the column with a DVM on the posts) . Or your tach could be dead. Only way to tell is to get a schematic and test power & ground in the tach plug. Recal is not a thing on these.
  14. I've seen quite a few PTO units that turn with no load....sometimes the oil is thick/cold enough to provide enough friction to make the clutches turn a bit. While I do NOT recommend trying this, we had a 1066 that the PTO spun with cold oil - but you could take your hand and stop it!
  15. Is it turning under load, or w/o any PTO shaft hooked up? If its just sitting there turning, no load, I'd be tempted to hook it up to a mower or some such (shut off the motor) then start the tractor and see if its just a bit sticky. Flip the lever on and off a few times to see if it will "break free". Just be careful, make sure nobody is around the machine when testing. If its really stuck on, yes, will need to be pulled and rebuilt.
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