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About Jeff-C-IL

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    AHHC Specialist
    9230, JD 7410, FNH 9030

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  1. An Anvil on the back end....so simple. As opposed to: Extend the boom on the hoist. Start lifting....Just when the item is getting clear, the hoist starts slowly tipping forward. Race to back of hoist and jump on it to hold it down. Realize you are totally stuck, since you can't get off to get a weight to hold it down..... Pull out phone and call wife. Have her come out to the shop and stand on hoist while you get some weights. Sleep on couch for next 3 days (You obviously think she is fat).
  2. Air - Rapid-air system. Make it bigger and nicer then you think you will ever need, and then maybe you will have 2-3 years before you outgrow it.
  3. I really like the "tracks" the axle units roll on--except now the cherry picker has to jump them to lift the bull gear! Tools like that make even tough jobs fun. Drool.
  4. Don't see why not. Except....I used a FNH 9030 on a grain cart 1 year. Same principle, a articulated 4x4 where you sit on the "back section". What I found is that the "motion feedback" is backwards from a 2wd. I mean, you can't "feel" the fact the the tractor is steering left; in fact the rear cab twists slightly right when you steer left. So....what would happen is, I'd be looking over my shoulder at the combine and all the sudden realize the front end of the tractor was pointing clear off to the left/right.....I "corrected" automatically for how the tractor "felt"..... the wrong way. Obviously this made it a bit hard to keep straight! I shoulda kept my eyes forward and let the combine driver stay with the cart! I suppose you would get used to it.
  5. I can't imagine using any manual shift 4x4 on a cart and liking it. IME, you have to come to a full stop to shift. A 2wd w/TA would be OK. I really like a PS on a cart, lets you easily get up beside the combine and then shift down, etc.
  6. Jeff-C-IL

    756 charging

    The way the 10SI was intended to work, is you have an external circuit to the "excite" input of the regulator. This typically is from keyed 12V thru a bulb. The bulb acts as a resistor in the circuit, as well as an indicator. (BTW, never hook 12V directly up to the excite input - it can burn it out). When the alternator is not charging, the excite input is "pulled to ground" in the regulator. Current from the switch flows thru the bulb (turning it on) to ground. As the alternator comes up to speed, this current "starts" the alternator charging. Once the alternator is charging, the voltage on the excite terminal goes up toward 12V, which means the current flow into the terminal decreases. Less current, so the light goes off or gets real dim. A "1 wire" alternator simply has a internal resistor from the output battery wire to the "excite" wire. This replaces the bulb in the dash. Hooking up both simply means that there will be two paths to excite the alternator. Most likely it will work OK---but note that this means more current into the regulator....which might burn it out. BTW--a LED bulb will NOT work in this circuit--as it has a much higher resistance. So when you are putting LED bulbs in the dash (which look GREAT BTW) don't put one in the "Charge" spot!
  7. J-Mech -- I'd consider an old manure spreader axle over the OEM pin. They were apparently a special hi-strength steel. I made a round bale fork out of several of those... took way more abuse than a standard steel shaft the same size. Been years...just remember that they were clearly stronger and harder to drill. Just make sure you use a shiny smooth part....not the part that was all rust pitted by all the c##p.
  8. CIH parts has them shown under 656 International (not Farmall). That is the standard "adjustable" axle, the bolster is under "sheetmetal" of all things. I'm not familiar with those axles in particular, but I can tell you that no, there should NOT be any slots to allow motion. The only way the axle should move is pivot around the pin.
  9. You say you can't have 2 loader tractors...OK, I get that. But hows about one loader tractor and one with a nice 3pt rear blade/tiller/etc. I always found that a loader made using a tractor for other stuff awkward, while having different implements on different tractors was often convenient. IF you can cash flow buying this 424, I'd suggest you buy it, take off the light trip bucket loader, and try using it around a bit. Keep the 350 with loader for a while. (Excuse: I have to find a better loader for the 424 before I sell the 350, dear!) I think you will find that the 424 sans loader is REALLY handy to have around: move a wagon, rear blade, maybe even a tiller if you garden. I far preferred the little Ford 800 we had w/o the loader on it. Then, if you find its too much having 2, or you just prefer 1 over the other, sell the unneeded tractor.
  10. They had a loader on that with that narrow single tire front end??!! Wow. Braver than me for sure! Looks like a nice solid find. Good rear tires too!
  11. Nope. Can't be done. You will obviously NEED another tractor that has said hitch... 😅
  12. I have one of the small "rocks open" IH toolboxes (not the larger frame rail mount) I plan to mount on the 666. Its shown as one of the options on CIH Parts, but doesn't show where its supposed to mount. I found one picture on TractorHouse that "maybe" showed one on the right side under the platform. Anybody have any good information on where you were supposed to mount the toolbox on a 666? I may just mount it where I want it, just curious!
  13. Check the fuel vent tube. Its a little tube that is coiled up on top of the rear tank...if that gets plugged it can starve the motor. You could try driving it with the cap loose to test.
  14. Don't look like they are fitting together right. It looks like there is a gap between the machined flats, should not be. I'd guess the bolts are loose as ^^^^.
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