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    AHHC Specialist
    9230, 666, JD 7410, FNH 9030

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Jeff-C-IL's Achievements

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  1. Oh, I finally got that is one bracket above, not 2 showing the different sizes. Yes, I think your best bet is to carefully grind the top & bottom of the valve spool until it fits in the bracket. If you do it slowly & carefully, I don't think you would have to disassemble the spool. Make sure to sand off any edges. IDK why its not the same. I might suggest checking the spool for function (does it do what you want, does the Power beyond work?) before modifiying it. After all, not having that linkage there just means the one remote won't work....does not prevent the tractor from running.
  2. IIRC, you can open the rear window, and simply lift the entire seat assembly (after getting those pesky bolts out of the rear corner....) and lay it back onto the back ledge. Don't even have to take it out of the cab.
  3. Same thing as a seized up front axle on a wagon gear, or those "adjustable" axle tubes on the front of your 806! HEAT, BEAT, REPEAT. As MAtt said, disconnect the bars, find the problem child, and use any and all tricks to get it out. Penetrating oil & time can actually help. So do long bars/pipes (turning the joint is always the best way to free one up), portapowers, etc. A really big hammer can help but DO NOT "flare" the pivot pin. Heat is still the best. I remember the rear axle froze on dad's 5 bottom 510 plow. It took 2 days, 2 torches, a cradle made from log chains and heavy blocks, a 20 ton jack, and a 12' heavy pipe hooked to another tractor to finally get it worked out. Fought us the whole way. I can still remember the vast sense of accomplishment when it finally dropped out....40 years later!
  4. Owen: There are several of different products to help make these shift better. If yours is worn enough it can get into different gears, it clearly needs repaired. I can't give you any specific parts, but I can tell you to take your time, and do it right. get the parts you need from either CIH or aftermarket updates. Remove the cab floor plate, disconnect the linkages, and use a wrench to manually move the shift levers on top of the tranny. If you can't feel the levers "snap" into each gear, you will also need to remove the top plates and replace the rollers and springs. This is not hard, just takes some care, plenty of advise on here! One of the biggest problem points is the D shaft-to-arm of the high/low/reverse right on top of the tranny. At the very least, replace that arm and use a thicker washer & grade 8 bolt to help hold it. THere are actual shaft updates available to replace the shaft and arm with one that clamps better (but you need to remove the top plate to install them) Ball joints, etc, are all avail. thru CIH, or I'm sure other places. Or if you are really wanting some fun, McMaster-Carr & build your own!
  5. When I bought my 666 the starter made a racket, so I bought a new drive - from a Delco place where the guy usually is 100% on getting you the right stuff. When I went to install it, it just ground. I pulled it back off and looked at the starter drives side by side and .... WOW different teeth!
  6. Dad did that all the time on the 1066. He held the 7' woods over to one side when mowing roads. This was on the system that has the pivoting center assembly, and the link arms out to the 3pt arms. You pull the pin holding the link arm "in", push it all the way out, then wedge a "cut off bolt" into the slot on one side. I remember he had some baling wire spiralled around the link arm block holding the "bolt" into the slot. I looked back at my 806 pictures, it has slightly different sway assembly, with the "link arms" being tubes instead of cast blocks. May be a little harder to wedge something in the slot.
  7. I know some folks who run Cummins engines on gensets (24/7/365, prime power) and use only OEM Cummins parts.
  8. Don't know your model, but shoup has a variety of mufflers, including some for the underslung. Heres one for the 300-504 utilities https://www.shoupparts.com/IH6-Muffler
  9. The original starter solenoids were silver plated, many of the replacements (at least in the 90's) were not. The solenoids would not last. This is where I learned about turning the posts on a solenoid, a good silver plated sol. with the battery post turned 180 would outlast the replacement you could get. I'm sure a lot of it was cables. The old 3EH series connection was a PITA. Also much of it was daily starting a tractor sitting out in the feedlot in 0 or lower weather, not plugged in cause there was no AC there. I got real sick of taking all the shields off in the year-around cab to get to the cables/batteries/starter. I eventually added a heavy cable out the side and a big stud under the cab to clamp a booster cable to.
  10. Hey, I think I started it with my "I don't like them" post! Not your fault man! Just cause I think it looks like somebody took an axe to the tractor hood lines (I mean look at that picture above with all those beauties and that one ugly duckling), doesn't mean anybody else has to agree! And I agree, Tractors are cool, keep the pictures coming, (even if they are black stripe....)😁
  11. From the wear pattern, that looks like an "Inside" snap ring. It also looks too large for the countershaft.
  12. I totally agree with SD's comment above. I've had a 4386 & a 9230, both don't seem to pull much more than our old 1486 that had the rear tires clear full of fluid and a whole stack of rear weights. HOWEVER....the 1486 was in the shop all the time getting TA's and rear end work, until I finally realized it was way overballasted (according to the manual) and pumped out the tires. By then I had the 4386, so never really ran it much more on the heavy stuff. Never had any problems in the rear end/tranny on the 4wd's. Just the poor little motor, working its guts out trying to drive those 8 big tires! The 4386 in particular - you could look down and see the tire print in the dirt - pretty much 0 slippage! (I think the 4386 was ~24k lbs too) All that said, no way do I want to go back to 2wd or MFD. The 4wd is so much more capable of a tillage tractor, even with the same basic pulling ability. And it will turn inside of them too...unless you hammer the brakes on the 2wd! Anybody that thinks a 4wd is just "big & clumsy", really needs to drive one of the newer ones. As I stated, I'm not really looking for "more HP", I'm most concerned that I don't have a problem with the engine. Now that the boost question is answered (14-18 is correct), that problem is solved. (Sure who wouldn't love another 50hp, but I was warned when I bought it not to turn it up....it would blow head bolts/gaskets). Now, I'm just wondering how you would go about checking/adjusting the pump & HP with no PTO, or if you have to take the pump off and have it set on a test stand. Can you use boost as a reasonable gauge to tweak the pump? I plan to replace all the filters before next spring, just because its time. Air filter is OOS at the dealer right now.
  13. Guys seriously. I've wondered the same thing....back when we had our 1066 and fed cows everyday and changed the starter or solenoid every year or so. Is there a modern gear reduction starter available to fit these tractors? It could be a great upgrade.
  14. Wow. Thats helpful. Thanks to all of you for the information. I am the type who would rather leave a tractor at the factory HP and NOT have to worry about blowing an engine, than crank it up and go for broke. However, I also like to keep my equipment running at peak designed performance. Inj. suggested turning the pump up to see if the boost climbs as a test....is this easy to do on these engines? (I know the old 400 series front to back, have never had a 8.3 apart.) If so, I'd be tempted to turn it up enough to get say, 16 psi of boost (middle of range above) and see what the EGT runs. If its too hot, turn it back down. Is this a reasonable way of setting performance on a tractor where you can't put it on a dyno??
  15. Or for that matter a 1066 with a bad motor. (one of those ones they drill a hole thru the block in Texas...)
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