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Jeff-C-IL

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About Jeff-C-IL

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    N-C-IL
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    AHHC Specialist
    9230, JD 7410, FNH 9030

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  1. Jeff-C-IL

    735 Plow

    Just being curious, I looked up the 730 & 735 on CIH Parts. The 730 has 'hydraulic width adjust' listed. I was curious about how the width worked, especially how the share/moldboard worked for the changing width. Whats interesting is what is NOT in the parts breakdown for either plow---the entire moldboard assembly! They have the trip mechanism and shank....everything except the working part. Does CIH list theis separately somewhere??
  2. Only problem with that is it only runs with the clutch engaged. No live PTO. I considered doing this on my 4386, but then installed a belt drive pump off the A/C pulley. I only needed to drive a Hydraulic sprayer pump, so it wasn't like I needed a big pump. I still have the under nose tank, pump, piping, cooler, etc I made if anybody is interested.
  3. Not only are they all down there, they all have (or had) belly tanks....which I never even heard of in NC- IL.
  4. If you look closely at the above picture, the front sprayer does not appear to have any seat back, or a significant seat base--like you would expect with the little "bucket" seat. The second sprayer clearly has a thick white seat base, and a white seat back. Maybe the little lawnmower bucket was stock, and the larger seat an option??
  5. Having a poor connection (or small wire) between the two batteries MAY cause problems....I doubt it would stress one battery over the other because they are in series. A bad connection between them "shuts off" the whole circuit, rather than loading one battery more. BUT---i've seen things like bad cables cause all sorts of problems that are "weird" from a logical point of view, so I'd make sure you have good cables in place regardless. Now, (2) 12V batteries hooked in parallel, you need to make sure both cables are similar, or its going to draw more from the shorter/heavier cable. Or if one cable goes bad it will only try to use one battery. Obviously that can really stress one battery over the other. (Large battery banks such as in solar systems, you have to be very careful with how they are connected to get even load on the batteries. I even know of a case in which too sharp bends in the cables between the batteries resulted in overheating and ruining an entire bank of 20+ EXPENSIVE batteries. If you think tractor batteries are expensive....some of the solar type batteries can run $500-$1000 each!)
  6. I took an old IPTO shaft (ya know, the one you replace every time you split the tractor cause the splines are worn) and made a step pin to press in the end. The small end of the pin fits in the pilot bearing, the other end pressed into the old shaft. Worked great. Having a lathe makes that sort of thing a lot easier!
  7. There are no overdrive gears. 4th is direct. 1-3 are under. I looked at the parts breakdown to refresh my memory, and I think you are forgetting to factor in the "constant mesh" stepdown gear set that drives the countershaft. (Parts #25 & 30). Its a 26T-47T stepdown from the input shaft to the countershaft--which is a 0.55 ratio. Gear 1-3 connect the countershaft back up to the output shaft. You are correct in that Gear 3 is a "step-up", but its still less than the step-down. If you sum the two "steps" together, the ratios are: 1st- 0.32; 2nd: 0.43; 3rd: 0.75. Please check my math--those were done real quick using the gear ratios on the parts breakdown. This may also be why your speed ratios are not working out. Please let us know if the math works right for those with the new ratios added!
  8. Umm...wondering why you are thinking 3 speed--- the 1086 is a 4 speed. 3 gear sets and a "direct" sleeve. So it would be H 4 DD = 1:1. The only 3 speeds I know of were the 1586 pinion rear end tractors--were you looking at the parts breakdown from one of them? There is a clutch arrangement inside the TA that locks the input shaft to the output shaft. 4th Gear and High are the same, a spline sleeve locks the input shaft to the output shaft in each case. So the power flow goes directly thru the TA, directly thru the 4 speed gearbox, and then directly thru the H-L. Basically one solid shaft the whole way from clutch to pinion. All countershafts are idling. At least that's what I remember..... had those apart way too many times as teen helping dad! Don't know why the gear ratio isn't consistent...counting gear teeth is pretty much definitive in a manual transmission! Sounds like a fun project!
  9. Now, mount one of these somewhere (I put mine under the footplate) and run a cable from the starter Battery post to it. Now you don't even have to access the battery posts to jump the tractor. Leave the battery covers in place. One clamp on this post, one on any ground bolt. Best upgrade I ever did on the 1066! https://www.waytekwire.com/item/47213/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-JB3816-3-Junction-Block-/
  10. My guess is somebody cut in front, the driver had to swerve...and the heavy manure tanker took it on around and off the road. Seen it happen too many times with light (comparatively) tow vehicles, and idiot auto drivers who have no clue why you shouldn't try to race around the SMV.....
  11. SO is the D360 different than the 400 series?? I changed the rear seal in a 466, etc a number of times and never used a tool.
  12. My pickup is a 2005---and has the original batteries in it.
  13. CIH parts shows that seal to be 536503R1, sold by the foot. I would think any auto parts store or paint shop may have some trunk lid gasket that would be similar...take in a sample.
  14. After cleaning, liberally apply ordinary gun grease to the posts before connecting the cables. Esp. under the clamps. Does not affect connectivity at all, just stops the corrosion. Just like greasing a plowshare. Just the other day I disconnected the battery cables on a tractor I had cleaned and greased a year ago and there was green stuff under the clamp....Uh-oh.....Oh wait...that's just green grease!
  15. I agree...I think those copper lines are a pretty good solution to slight leaks in the valves. They might not be OEM, but I actually consider that an upgrade. Some of the most modern hydraulics now use built in "case drains" to reroute anything that gets past the seals back into the reservoir. Copper pipe in no problem with no pressure. Now, if the valves have any other issues...get them fixed. In fact, if I still had my 806, I'd be tempted to duplicate that.
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