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snoshoe

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Everything posted by snoshoe

  1. J-Mech I couldn't type that much in a week. Now that youv'e made it easier. Heres some things that have been passed over or I missed. The difference in displacement and line retraction needs between inward and outward opening nozzles. The role of the delivery valve in said line retraction. For me the big one here is the effect of overatomization of fuel in an engine designed to use stored heat for atomization and combustion control. Also point out IH already did this work. Admittedly their goal was probably cost savings. As was one of the op's. The engine was originally equ
  2. An ohmeter connected to S terminal and solenoid case will show some resistance. That is hold in winding. S terminal to motor terminal will show less resistance. That is pull in winding (the wire on the terminal you can't turn). Neither are dependant on contact condition. When contact is made you have the same voltage at both ends of pull in winding. So no juice flows leaving the hold in winding to maintain contact. In addition pull in current grounding through starter is enough to jiggle starter enough for bendix to align with ring gear. In this case I think about 70 amp. Yes through a 14 gaug
  3. After removing the top cover assy. There will be another nut on shaft that has to be removed before anything else will come apart. You are looking for anything that prevents full travel of the spool. Be sure to remove centering spring assemblies and inspect springs.
  4. Late to the party again. Your thinking clearer than I was yesterday. If valve doesn't open to let oil in one side of cylinder. Its not opening to let oil out other side. So yes. Open up the control valve. It's leaking anyway. I hope you have a puller for the steering wheel. Hammering on end of shaft tends to drive core plug out of bottom of housing. Gearbox must be removed to replace.
  5. I would also be checking to be sure nothing is flopping around in the front end.
  6. Well after the rack and piston. My next step was the direction control valve.steering easier right than left without assist is telling me problem is not power but a mechanical failure. I think you are going to be removing and opening box. Just out of curiosity you don't notice any in and out or up and down motion of the sector shafts do you?
  7. The idea with turning wheel was to move end of rack past edge of hole allowing it to drop out of engagement with pinion. I am concerned at this point that I may have sent you on a wild goose chase. By now pieces should have fallen out if rack was broke. From picture it appears another part of cylinder that usualy comes with cylinder is still in housing. That limits your ability to tip cylinder and rod for clearence. Cylinder should come off of piston to verify piston is still fastened to rod. The part still in housing is only held now by oring. If rack is free from pinion should be able to pry
  8. The plate with the three grooves is the bearing plate which holds the rack up in engagement with the pinion. The shims are how you adjust mesh. With that out and cylinder unbolted. You should be able to remove cylinder and rack. Should also be able to look up and see if rack is broke. Moving steering wheel back and forth should help.
  9. Don't think it would pull cultimulcher all day with a diff problem. With no ta we're back to clutch.
  10. If no smoke coming from clutch housing and you can hear ta shift. You've probably sheared differential spider.
  11. That is the plate. Need to drain steering gear. It could be as simple as replacing and shimming the rack. I would be checking play between shafts and bearing condition. We know you have a seal problem at the steering valve. Instructions for adjustments are in the manual
  12. They had no problems untill they dropped the 5 ring pistons in favor of the three rimgers.
  13. In front of cylinder. Behind steering arm. On bottom side of housing. Can not be seen in pictures. Must look up from below.
  14. Thanks. I was going to address the honing and forgot it. Honing leaves a textured surface that gives traction to that oring on piston. The spring behind the poppet is the only force there is to move that piston back. It has to do that while forcing oil through that little orifice. The reason for always replacing the piston oring is they can age,get softer and grip tighter. Anything to make piston slide easier without leaking helps.
  15. #3 appears to be the unloading valve. Should not be necessary to remove more than piston. Bore and piston need to be clean. Orifice in piston clean. Poppet seat tight. Poppet free with strong spring pressure behind it. New oring on piston.
  16. I should know this. Its's just to far in the past. Is it possible those anchor points are bolted on the wrong side upside down? Are there float pins on wishbone to allow rear part to pivot up and down? Again very fuzzy memory.
  17. Hydraulic oil is mineral oil. They are labeled that way to seperate them from cylinders made for brake fluid. Those would be incompatible.
  18. Engine tranny and rearend come out rear of frame. Leaving frame loader and front axle as one unit. Don't think its possible to remove engine through frame. Could be wrong.
  19. I don't know the dimension you ask for but standard drawbar height was 14 inches. Go from there.
  20. Starting valve operation can be observed through spark plug holes.
  21. Maybe caliper frame would be more accurate. Anyway to get the pads to slide again.
  22. If the parts are blast cabinet size. There are several auto shops in this area that have a cabinet for calipers. IDK maybe brakes don't rust in Ohio.
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