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snoshoe

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Everything posted by snoshoe

  1. Put my foot in my mouth about the torsion bar. Can't remember it that way but Steve's comment about the casting I remember. No argument. I assume the top covers are the same as the hydro speedo cable enters through unused shifter hole. I also assume the gear has hitch pump because flow would be needed for auxiliaries. A cover swap. Moving forks and rails from cover to cover. Moving torsion bar and external hardware should do it.
  2. It is a gear with shuttle in place of ta
  3. 656 is upper link sensing. No torsion bar. Trans cover for hydro only has one shift rail. I believe holes for the other two are there. You would have to assess if easier to change shifting or hydraulic parts. Should be doable. I think these guys are thinking large frame.
  4. Place nut on anvil with flat square to anvil. Rap top flat hard with hammer. Turn and repeat until all six flats are done. Nut will come off now.
  5. I think your right but I think so.ething like 80% have been changed. At least his data center must have been changed. Thinking back just the face changed on some of them.
  6. Speed selection is just for display in data center. Has nothing to do with pto operation.
  7. TA had been removed. Yours is a FARMALL
  8. If the problem is really the plunger. The solution would be a new one. If you are going to mark cable. Then you don't need plunger at all.
  9. I think we're on the same page but I think he is thinking the start position plunger is the problem. I see the lever not against the stop with nothing but the piece of wire to hold it. That's why I asked him to remove that piece of wire. If the spring can't push that lever to the stop. The pump is indeed damaged.
  10. Your cable had problems before it broke. Remove what's left of it from pump. If spring can not move that lever forward to stop screw by its self. You do have pump problems. The spring loaded plunger for start position pushes in very hard if using just your fingers. Using the lever. Not so bad. Can do it with forefinger.
  11. Don't expect an ice box. Most of those after market systems were a random collection of components. Not necessarily sized correctly. Roof does not normally come off a year a round. The inside drops down.
  12. Reciever drier should have a sight glass.
  13. Not positive what a 624 is but I doubt that is a good idea. Whatever is leaking will still leak. It is apt to have adverse effects on wet friction materials. Such as wet brakes or pto clutches. Pulling the heavier oil through a hydraulic filter may cause a problem. Especially in cooler Temps. If your tractor has none of these concerns. Then I'm out of arguments.
  14. IH but can't tell you what series. Not a Tractor engine.
  15. Shouldn't have to pull many plugs to find steering relief valve and try.
  16. Sorry. Afraid I'm not much help. I have good days and bad days. Today evidently not so good. I was going to tell you to pull steering relief valve. Start engine. It should spray oil. If not. Problem with pump. If it does. Pump is now primed. I mentioned mcv. Not sure you have one. There is a multi valve but that is for charge and servo pressure. You could have a flow divider block like a 656 but my memory fails me. I still think there is an mvc. Just can't picture it or tell what plug hides what.
  17. I doubt it's an airlocked pump. Steering wheel would be turning free without turning front wheels by now. That it turns hard says oil is being supplied but not pressure. I would check steering relief valve first followed by flow divider. Next would be blown oring. Probably in mcv.
  18. That's plugged in. Unplugged it should be battery voltage. Both readings are necessary.
  19. From where to where? AC orDC? With plug off of regulator. Engine wide open. Should be 28-30 volt AC. .4 volts would be bad stator. Middle wire to ground with same conditions should be battery voltage DC. .4 volts would be no connection to battery.
  20. Just read your comments in Iowaboy thread. Made me think of this. Son-in-law has 1250. Not charging. New stator new regulator. No charge. Calls with his tale of woe. I go over all the tests. He says every thing is good. He watched several YouTube videos and he's sure it's right. I ask. You do have battery voltage at b+ don't you? Silence. I think so. Hour and a half later. A text "all good key switch was bad". Point of story is alternator can be perfect. Still needs to be connected to battery to charge.
  21. I ignored the part where you were able to increase friction. Obviously friction disk and pressure plate are okay. If there is torsion on the spring. Pin is sheared.
  22. There should be a pin through shaft that rides in slots in pressure plate to turn it.
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