acem Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 The 1086 and 1486 are very similar tractors. Which do you prefer? Why? They are very similar. The engine and HP are different (DT414 vs DT436). The 1086 has the PTO speed at 2100 RPM while the 1486 is 2300 RPM. Today they have a similar price and typically do similar jobs on the farm. When they were new the 14 was probably pushed a little harder. Experiences and Opinions welcome. It's just a discussion not a dissertation. Quote
billonthefarm Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 Bigger brake on the 14’s are a little advantage. Unless you are going to really max the 436 out the 414 will hang right with it. I have both. No preference on my part. 2 Quote
Lazy WP Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 I know nothing about a 10, but was always told that if you were baling hay you wanted a 10, because the 14 had bigger bull gears and didn’t straddle the windrow as well. The 14 I ran was the best red tractor I was ever around until the boxcar magnum showed up. 1 1 Quote
pt756 Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 arent the axles and rear ends the same size? 1 Quote
INTERNATIONAL 1466 Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 Have always preferred the 14 over the 10. Only ever owned one 10, but ran plenty. They just never seemed to have the git up and go of the 14. I will take the 14 every time. They are like stated pretty much exactly the same except for the engines. They will both run like blue blazes if you tune on them! 1 Quote
Sledgehammer Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 22 minutes ago, pt756 said: arent the axles and rear ends the same size? Same size axles (pic above for some reason 🤷🏻♂️) 1 Quote
acem Posted January 25, 2025 Author Posted January 25, 2025 The 1086 and 1486 share the same rear axle size. The 1066 and 1466 have different axle size and brakes. 1 Quote
Matt Kirsch Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 10 hours ago, Lazy WP said: I know nothing about a 10, but was always told that if you were baling hay you wanted a 10, because the 14 had bigger bull gears and didn’t straddle the windrow as well. The 14 I ran was the best red tractor I was ever around until the boxcar magnum showed up. I know it was what you were told but it makes no sense. The bull gears are internal on these tractors. External dimensions are the same. There's no reason one would "straddle the windrow" better than the other. If anything the 14 would straddle slightly better due to it being slightly more likely to have taller 20.8x38s on it. In reality, both tractors most likely have DT436 engines in them when their original engines wore out and remanufactured engines were installed. Both tractors are also likely to have 20.8x38 rear tires. These days, it only makes sense to choose the tractor in the best condition and/or is the best deal. 2 Quote
stronger800 Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 What he said. But 14’s are more likely to have 20.8’s, and 20.8’s cost a lot more. I have a 14 on 20.8’s and one on 18.4’s. And four 10’s with 18.4’s. (66 series, you guys know) There’s no difference in ability of any of them. I don’t run the one on 20.8’s on hay ground, because the tires actually can rub the rows, and it’s set up heavier, so I don’t want the compaction. But it rolls faster…so I like it for road travel 1 Quote
766 Man Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 I've never owned either tractor from being new but was always told the 1486 was light in the final drive given the power. Don't know if guys turned up the fuel screw so the HP was past what the engineers intended to go through it. 1 Quote
Mr. Plow Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 I view this as a dealer thing. When new some dealers sold 14s stock for a little more $$$ than 10s......and some turned 10s up to 150hp before delivery.......same same. To others points, they are all probably 175hp plus now, most likely overhauled. Best condition machine wins. 1 Quote
766 Man Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 4 minutes ago, Mr. Plow said: I view this as a dealer thing. When new some dealers sold 14s stock for a little more $$$ than 10s......and some turned 10s up to 150hp before delivery.......same same. To others points, they are all probably 175hp plus now, most likely overhauled. Best condition machine wins. I remember dealers of more than one color admitting they sent new tractors out turned up to the limit for designed operation versus rated output. And no doubt some owners turned a tractor up even more especially when the warrantee elapsed. So the culprit for failure most likely was someone other than the engineer who designed the tractor. 2 Quote
Drysleeves Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 12 hours ago, Sledgehammer said: Turbo 186? 14's have heavier bull gears and more cooling capacity along with the increased displacement. You can easily make them the same hp but a 1086 with the original 414 will live a long time at 150 hp. 1 Quote
acem Posted January 25, 2025 Author Posted January 25, 2025 I studied the parts book. In the drive train section it shows everything to be the same for a 1086 (not high clear) and 1486 except for the PTO gearing and clutch/pressure plate. The PTO gearing is related to the 2100/2300 RPM difference. The clutch and pressure plate were different when new but all replacements are the same. The 1486 with Cab and Air has a higher capacity radiator. I'm not sure of it's availability. Typically 1086s came with a mechanical seat suspension while the 1486s came with the hydraulic seat. But this can be converted. Whatever it has probably needs rebuilt by now anyway. As stated above, 10s usually run 18.4x38 and 14s usually run 20.8x38. But this can be changed. Obviously they have different engines. Quote
Drysleeves Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 2 minutes ago, acem said: In the drive train section it shows everything to be the same for a 1086 (not high clear) and 1486 except for the PTO gearing and clutch/pressure plate. Never knew that but since the axles are the same it makes sense. IH was starting to sell more 14's as a percentage right before the strike, or at least that's what they told us on the tour in early 1978. 1 Quote
766 Man Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 20 minutes ago, Drysleeves said: Never knew that but since the axles are the same it makes sense. IH was starting to sell more 14's as a percentage right before the strike, or at least that's what they told us on the tour in early 1978. HP was skyrocketing during the 1970's at least around here. In 1970 100 HP was considered a big tractor. By 1980 180 HP was considered big in a 2WD drivetrain. In terms of production by the late 1970's 100 HP was a shrinking product in terms of percent produced of 2WD tractors. In 1978 130-135 HP tractors were the meat of the market. 1 Quote
Rick G. Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 I had a 1980 1086 Tri-Stripe. I was the second owner, and at the time of purchase I was told it had 165 PTO HP. I never had it tested to confirm that though. 18.4-38s w/axle duals, fluid filled inboard rears, front end weights. The hardest thing I ever asked of it for me was to do Fall tillage with a heavy KRAUSE C-Shank 7 shank soil saver with 4” twisted shovels and a Remlinger Ridge Leveler kit bolted to the soil saver’s rear frame. We also once pulled my KRAUSE with a friend’s 1981 1486 Tri-Stripe dualed and weighted, but the 14’ had 20.8-38s. I got to drive the 1486 on my KRAUSE. I don’t know if the 20.8-38s skewed my impression of the 1486, but I thought my 1086 performed better, and my 10’ also seemed snappier when wanging the throttle open under a load. We also didn’t know if the 1486 ever had its tail twisted (cranked up) or not. But, in summation, I favored my 1086 over the 1486. My neighbor has a strong 1586, and that thing was a beast compared to the 10’ or 14’. 1 Quote
drglinski Posted January 25, 2025 Posted January 25, 2025 14. Can't go wrong with a slightly bigger tractor. 1 Quote
pt756 Posted January 26, 2025 Posted January 26, 2025 what about the later 86 with the different hydraulic. nearby 1486 has been converted back to the older style, was the closed center a problem 1 Quote
db1486 Posted January 26, 2025 Posted January 26, 2025 I prefer the 1486, but I'm a little biased lol 1 Quote
mrfred54 Posted January 26, 2025 Posted January 26, 2025 Kinda funny this topic came up. 10 versus 14. Just did a TA, clutch, rear engine seal, reseal auxiliary valves on a 1486 with 9000 hours. This week doing a TA, clutch, engine seal on 1086 that has never been apart with 8200 hours. 10's and 14's are very popular here in michigan. Only know of one 1486 with 20.8 tires, all are 18.4 around here 1 Quote
billonthefarm Posted January 26, 2025 Posted January 26, 2025 19 minutes ago, mrfred54 said: Kinda funny this topic came up. 10 versus 14. Just did a TA, clutch, rear engine seal, reseal auxiliary valves on a 1486 with 9000 hours. This week doing a TA, clutch, engine seal on 1086 that has never been apart with 8200 hours. 10's and 14's are very popular here in michigan. Only know of one 1486 with 20.8 tires, all are 18.4 around here Same here as well. Almost all were on 18.4’s. 2 Quote
Matt Kirsch Posted January 26, 2025 Posted January 26, 2025 If you can't find a 14, but you find a really nice 1086, but you really think you need that 14, just print two of these out and use some clear tape to cover the 0: 3 Quote
supermpuller Posted January 26, 2025 Posted January 26, 2025 I ran 3 1066 over the years , and a couple of 1086 all were turned up to 160 hp, If you drive a tractor with a little bit of sense you won't have any problems. 3 Quote
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