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Matt Kirsch

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Matt Kirsch last won the day on May 14 2018

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About Matt Kirsch

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  1. Since the flange OD of the C263 is smaller than the sleeve OD of the C291, I would say that yes, the couterbore would need to be bored as well as the main bore no matter what, if he wants to go to 291 cubic inches. Your customer pretty much has two choices: 1. Go back with stock C263 sleeves. 2. Get the machine work done.
  2. You can do hoses right from the valve. The ports on the valves are standard 3/4" ORB style. You'll have to get creative running the hoses, but if you're not going for original...
  3. The touch control sounds a little weak if a couple of cinder blocks is all the difference between lifting and not lifting the disc. Keep an eye on your engine oil level as the hydraulic pump likes to blow oil past the seal and dump hydraulic fluid into the engine if it's worn and then used under high pressure. Like the other guys are saying, a disc should not need down pressure. Are you trying to disc hard ground? It's not a primary tillage disc, and may not do much on hard dry ground but scratch the surface. This disc is meant for breaking up freshly plowed soil, but it may work okay if the soil is fairly mellow and not too dry.
  4. Gensco Tire is the supplier of airplane tires to agriculture. You want to purchase the tire mounted on the rim, because you're not going to do it with a couple of tire spoons, and your local tire guy's machine won't even begin to touch an airplane tire. They are VERY thick and stiff. The bolt pattern rims are standard for agriculture. That said, a slightly wider tire isn't going to make that much difference. Even double width isn't going to make an appreciable difference. You would need a tire that is so ridiculously wide to "float" with the weight of the loader that it just isn't practical. Like, 24" wide. It will stick out past the bucket and make it difficult to get close to anything. Best to just not drive where it's muddy if you don't have to.
  5. Not that I am aware of. They were graphite from the first to the last. There is/was an aftermarket throwout bearing but to my knowledge people were having bad luck with those.
  6. Working on a Cub is not much different than working on an M, just smaller, to the point where you can easily manhandle most of the parts. The surface of those fingers where the throwout comes in contact should be at least 1-1/8" above the main frame of the pressure plate. OEM/correct measurement should be 1-1/4" but the screws are too short on most new pressure plates to get that.
  7. The odds of it being an alternator bracket are near zero but the Super C is one of the easiest to mount an alternator on because there's no hood to contend with where it mounts. If you can hacksaw a piece of threaded rod, you can mount the alternator.
  8. Can't help you on the carb kit but I see that it has a solenoid valve whose function it is to stop the flow of fuel to the main jet when they key is off. Have you tested that solenoid valve to ensure that it is functioning properly?
  9. If and when you decide to start pulling it apart to see if you can find anything wrong, you'll quickly decide a lump hammer and a new saw is the best fix. IIRC those are just updated versions of the old "Mini Mac" series of McCulloch chainsaws. They're like Pandora's box and the worlds most difficult bar puzzles rolled into one. Have you checked for spark when it is in a no-start condition? Have you dribbled some fuel down the plug hole and see if it will fire?
  10. Can't help you with the actual problem but there is a troubleshooting guide for steering in the service manual, and I think the I&T manual as well.
  11. Glad someone else mentioned Bon Ami. I was thinking Barkeep's Friend, though that might work too. I think I've also heard of using Boraxo. Don't know how much, though. Those old timers weren't very specific. I'm sure the more you use the more the rings will "seat" until they've seated themselves right into a rip-snorting case of blowby.
  12. If you're talking about the actual grass seed drop tubes on the back, vinyl tubing, heater hose, even a cut up garden hose, anything cheap that's the right diameter will do the job. If you're talking about the grain drop tubes you'll spend 10X what you paid for the drill replacing them, unless you can come up with a creative alternative.
  13. Yes, but the insurance isn't free, or inexpensive. For production to be worthwhile, it has to cover costs, pay for the insurance, and leave you something to show for it at the end. Nobody wants to work for nothing. It's amazing how many of those "I'd buy one of those in a heartbeat" commitments dry up the moment you have something to sell.
  14. IIRC you can get U-joints, bearings and seals because they're off the shelf parts at a bearing house. Anything specific to the axle like gears and such, is pretty much NLA.
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