Matt Kirsch

You're not lifting the Rock of Gibraltar here, just the tail end of a plow to hold it off the ground to get it back and forth to the field, and turned around at the headlands. The big 4" cylinders are for when you have an M and are trying to lift a big disc harrow.

Nope, and I don't plan to. It's not going to solve my problem and doesn't tell me anything that the ammeter already does. #2 wire is connected exactly as the picture shows above. I bought the Delco 10SI pigtail and connected it directly to the BAT terminal on the alternator. #1 on mine is fed from the key switched (+) side of the coil. Using a diode, not a light or a resistor.

Cutting oil is always a good thing. Helps clear the chips. I don't think it's going to make the task of cutting noticeably easier though. You're still cutting metal.

Only utility tractor I'd ever consider owning but I think I'd rather have a newer series with a flat-deck cab instead of straddling the hump. I think the 884 came along later in the 84 series and only came with the H style shifting. That's the preferred version as they are more tolerant of wear and tear. The sawtooth style shifter from the earlier versions wasn't as good. Had to have been something right about those tractors. They were made from the 1970's clear up into the 2000s. The Doncaster Utility tractors. 74 84 85 95 32xx/42xx CXX series... they milked that design for a very long time.

My info in that older post might be outdated. If it was the one where I said you could ask on Facebook, I think they pulled back on their facebook interaction because they were getting overwhelmed with interest. I lucked out and got in early on the program, LOL.

I'm having a hard time believing that I'm having THAT much bad luck, though...

Yup.

19.7V. It's overcharging 1000% for sure.

It's a double-edged sword. People call ANY rotary mower a "bRush hog" and also call the brand "BRush Hog." Neither is correct.

"OEM" and "aftermarket" are all "aftermarket" these days. Made in the same factory overseas. Only difference is how much you pay and the printing on the outside of the box.

Not for 20 minutes straight, with the smell of sulfuric acid in the air.

It is failed when it doesn't come down almost immediately and you can smell the sulfuric acid from 20' away. Even a flat dead battery will come off pegged within a few seconds. This one NEVER comes off pegged. Same as the last three alternators. They work as expected at first, then suddenly peg the ammeter and won't come down.

This one failed with less than 10 minutes of runtime. I replaced it over the winter, and it worked fine. Went to move the tractor to get at the round baler, and the ammeter was pegged.

Adding to what I said earlier: The Shell product has been out for over two years now. If there were widespread problems, we'd know. My only dislike is the unpleasant smell. It's not that it doesn't smell like Hy-Tran, it's that it smells BAD, almost like dead animal.

BTW, I'd like to run a 10ga wire straight from the alternator BAT terminal to the ammeter but getting to the back of the ammeter is a challenge. The dash panel won't come out more than an inch and I don't want to force it any further or I WILL end up rewiring it...