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Matt Kirsch

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Matt Kirsch last won the day on May 14 2018

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About Matt Kirsch

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  1. I found a manual for the Buhler 2596. It's one of those modern "frameless" quick attach loaders. The only "frame" on the loader is the vertical posts that support the boom arms. The mounting bracket depicted in the manual is a plate that runs the length of the frame rail. Frankly I would not want anything less than that. The mounting bracket acts as the frame of the loader to transmit loads to the tractor. The farther you can spread those loads, such as to the front of the tractor and/or the rear axle, the better off you'll be.
  2. The CaseIH Low Ash is north of $100 a pail, but Shell Rotella 15W40 is supposed to be <1% ash and a "low ash" oil as well. Local farm/home/horse/dog store has it for $70 a pail but you can also find places selling it for >$100 a pail too. I just don't know if it's "low ash enough." Somewhere I recall running across a claim that CaseIH Low Ash is <0.5% ash.
  3. How it mounts depends on the loader. Did the loader come off of an 806 or a similar era IH tractor? If not you are going to have to figure out how to mount it yourself and fabricate your own mounting brackets. There is no place to tap into the hydraulic supply from the factory. It is a simple open center system. If the loader has a joystick valve the easiest way is to plug hoses from the joystick valve into one of the outlets and bungee cord that hydraulic lever back to provide pressure. That will work at least for the initial phases. You can look into spending several hundred dollars on a "power beyond" setup down the road. Your Case IH dealer wouldn't be able to help you anyway except to sell you some oil.
  4. There's certainly no IH genetics, that's for sure. I see a lot of Case and David Brown in them. The illegitimate love child of a 2096 and a 1694.
  5. I believe he is talking about the lower lift arms of the 3pt, and large corn planters (16, 24, and more rows) are one implement that pull off the lower lift arms because of their incredible tongue weight when folded up. Discbines commonly pull off the lower lift arms as well.
  6. Even IH stuff is aftermarket. The big problem is the market for the aftermarket parts is shrinking, and it's gotten too small to support lots of vendors and competition. The remaining market is demanding lowest-cost product for the most part, so the lowest-cost supplier ends up with the business. How does the lowest-cost supplier keep the cost low? By cutting corners, of course...
  7. The gas side is only capable of idling the engine to warm it up for diesel operation. There is no throttle control or governor. You might be able to limp the tractor around on gasoline but there is no way you'll be pushing dirt.
  8. They don't moldboard plow AT ALL out in Alberta and Saskatchewan so the draft control would be pretty much useless. The aftermarket hitch can be bolted on the tractor in a few hours without putting it out of service, where the factory hitch will require removal of the cab (if equipped, obviously) and the top cover of the rear end housing, as well as removal of one wheel to install the torsion bar for the lower pull points and draft control. If all you are doing is running a bale spear, or a box blade, or a snowblower, the aftermarket will serve you just fine. The one pictured looks to have decent geometry. Many of the aftermarket hitches put the pull points for the lower arms much too far apart.
  9. There's no way to make a slipping clutch grip better by tightening a few bolts, like you would a slip clutch on a baler. The only possibility is if your clutch pedal free play is so far out of adjustment that it is holding the clutch partially released, causing the slipping. That in turn is hard on both the throwout bearing and the clutch itself. If you have any free pedal travel whatsoever, that's not it. The clutch would be shot in this situation. Does the tractor have a TA? That is the other possible source of slipping. One odd possibility is an axle spinning inside a wheel hub, having stripped the splines.
  10. Wasn't you. It was injpumped suggesting that Industrials had a unique PTO. Regardless, it was stimulating and productive conversation, and that's never a bad thing.
  11. Cub clutches frequently need to have the fingers set. They're usually set too low from the factory (1"), but the set screws aren't long enough to get the full 1-1/4" height. That's where the 1-1/8" compromise came from.
  12. Well, the hydraulic TA has a mechanical sprag clutch that does the pulling in "low." The sprag will pull the tractor even if there is no hydraulic pressure anywhere, when it is working. Any slipping or stopping in low indicates that sprag is worn out and no longer engaging. The low side also has hydraulically engaged "holdback" clutches, but these are not meant to pull against and will not hold up long if the sprag is completely shot. I suspect that the sprag is grabbing at least partially once the holdback clutches start working, or else you'd have been totally dead in the water in low a long time ago. Can't tell you what the strange warm up behavior is about, unfortunately. Only theory I have is there's a slight leak somewhere in the TA unit that is either causing it to lose prime in the low clutches or is letting the pressure to the low clutches bleed off so they won't hold. Warming up allows the prime to build back up, and/or things to expand and seal the leak maybe? I dunno. Regardless, the TA will need to be replaced sooner or later. How long it will last as it is, is anyone's guess. The TA is a wear item but not a regular maintenance item.
  13. Matt Kirsch

    1086 A/C

    The Harbor Freight AC gauge manifold is always on sale and is handy to have. I've use that and their cheap air-powered AC vacuum to suck out and recharge the Maxxum a couple times now. If I was inclined to figure out which ports are which on the York compressor on my 1586, I'd put the vacuum on there and see if it will pull a vacuum. Just remember to only open one valve at a time on the manifold. Dumb things happen when you open both at once.
  14. Actually the Cub has a 31/32" 10-spline PTO shaft that turns opposite of the 540, at engine speed. I wouldn't consider it a "standard" because it was really only used on one model of tractor. Yes, yes, I know, technically FIVE models (OG Cub, Cub LoBoy, 154, 185, and 184) but these are really all variations of the same tractor, and all made by one company. The other PTO types are all SAE standards, adopted by the whole industry.
  15. Just from looking at them I'd expect them to come apart in one of two ways: 1. Pull the spring back from the cam to uncover a roll pin. 2. Hold the cam and turn the hex head to unbolt the assembly.
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