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Matt Kirsch

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Everything posted by Matt Kirsch

  1. You using genuine CaseIH o-rings or generic ones out of a kit? The ones in the kits are not the same as what CaseIH sells. Meaning, they're not right in some way shape or form.
  2. Split the tractor? That went from 0 to 100 in the blink of an eye. The hydraulic remote valves are under the seat. Once the seat suspension has been removed it's all right there in the open. That said I don't know if you can fix anything by digging into the valves. As I recall the seal achieved by a lapped metal-on-metal fit. There are no o-rings or seals to replace that have anything to do with internal leakdown. All the o-rings do is keep the oil from getting to the outside world. The spools are worn in the bores of the valve body and the only solution to that is a new valve spool and/or body, which I'm pretty sure you can't get or are at least prohibitively expensive. The solution may be to install a two-way check valve in between the loader and the remote valve. A two-way check valve does not let oil pass unless there is pressure from the tractor side.
  3. Call an outfit that does closed cell spray foam. They can drill a few holes in the floor in inconspicuous places and jet expanding foam in the cavity.
  4. According to my research these "low ambient" heat pumps will still make heat at -14F without a heat strip. Thanks. I didn't publicize it so there was no way you'd know unless you read the obits.
  5. Maybe I'm totally off here but I'm thinking the pump should not LOSE prime in the first place. If it doesn't lose prime it doesn't have to pick it back up. Both issues are likely related.
  6. Anyone with experience with a mini split heat pump? Specifically a "low ambient" heat pump? I moved back to the farm to take care of Mom when Dad died almost a year ago. Mom passed last September, but I'm still living at the farm while we decide what to do with the estate. There's still a dog and lots of stuff around that someone needs to keep an eye on. This may or may not become permanent. Mom was always hot due to her various health issues. Dad was frugal so he just lived with being cold. I'm sick of being cold. There's a wood stove but it's just not enough when it gets below 20. It's hard to regulate and seems to throw less heat as the temperature drops. When it's 30 it'll drive you out of the house. When it's 10 you have to hug it to tell if it's burning. There is also an oil furnace but that costs upwards of $100 a day to run. ($4/gal fuel, 1 gallon per cycle, 1 cycle per hour, $100 close enough). The house needs windows, insulation, etc. but I'm thinking a mini split in the main room might be a good stopgap measure. Anything that would add warmth to the house without burning oil. Oh and if we need a contrivance to make it "on topic" this will keep me from freezing to death so that I may continue to contribute IH knowledge to this forum and gain IH knowledge from this forum.
  7. Lots of plans for waste oil heaters on the Internet. No need to reinvent the wheel.
  8. I thought the hitch valve was on the outside left. So nothing would move with regards to the handles. A valid configuration of the 560 is two remotes and a standard drawbar. How did they achieve that without having to have all different parts for different configurations?
  9. Remove the valve from the stack under the console. You will probably need shorter bolts and a few o-rings would be wise. Undo the bolts, pull the end cap, disconnect the lines and linkage from the valve, slide it out, and replace the end cap using new o-rings. You could probably take up the excess bolt with short lengths of tube or stacks of washers, or just slide out one bolt at a time to replace with shorter bolts. The fast hitch valve relies on feedback from linkage that runs up from the hitch to take it off demand. Without the hitch there you need to find the "sweet spot" where the valve thinks the hitch is, for it to go off demand.
  10. A hose could be collapsed internally, allowing flow in only one direction while severely restricting it in the other.
  11. The 2000 owner's manual has pretty decent isometric drawings of the front mounts.
  12. They're not cheap but its seems you can still get the REI tractor radios. I thought they were discontinued, but looks like you can still find them.
  13. For me that search shows nothing new under $200 and lots of things that are not radios. Not taking the chance on someone else's old junk.
  14. Get a piece of cardboard and make a pattern of the bolt holes on your MX180's engine tub to take with you when you go to look at the loader. If the holes line up, buy it.
  15. Your main challenge with replacing the radio is finding a new radio in the old fashioned 2-knob format. I can't find one that isn't designed for a classic car restoration and priced accordingly. Used to be you could go to Radio Shack and buy a simple self-contained AM-FM 2-knob radio for $19.99 or $39.99, or something like that. Had the speaker built in. Nobody has anything like that anymore. Everything now is all button operated, with a digital screen that you have to hog out a big rectangle in your panel to mount. If you didn't want to ruin the original front panel you could make a new panel. It's just sheet metal and black spray paint. Mount a cheap modern radio and a couple of small speakers in the plate.
  16. Short answer, look at EVERYTHING. There are no real "weak points" on these tractors, but they are 41-45 years old, so any part of the tractor can be a "weak point" due to wear and tear. Anything can be fixed, though. It should start quickly cold, and clean up right away. You should not have to jam it into gear (I guess shifting is the closest thing to a weak point, but again it can be fixed). It's hard to test the TA unless the seller has field work to do with it. Personally I would avoid one with a turbo. 986s have the slightly larger 436 engine in them and farmers used to like to put turbos on them and crank up the HP to make themselves a "poor man's 1486." It's true 1086's are more common, more powerful, but also more likely to be rode hard and put away wet vs a non-turbo 986. Obviously pay less for one with problems.
  17. Frankly I think it has more to do with the extra work involved in pulling that second dual on and off when switching between plowing and disking, and only having one tillage tractor. You try to limit it as much as possible but at minimum you have to pull that right dual at least once per season: Plow the corn ground that's going into oats/hay, put the duals on, disc the corn ground that's going into oats/hay, pull the right dual, plow the corn ground, put the right dual back on, disc the corn ground... Then if its not too late, pull the right dual, chop the first cutting, plow the sod that's going into corn, put the dual back on, disc the sod that's going into corn. Dad did that for several years until he got the 856. Then the duals went on that, and my hearing went with them.
  18. They're commonly used in aircraft. You may not be able to find an exact match but you can find something that works.
  19. If you can't find any numbers, the only other option is to pull the head and measure the bore and stroke. Most of us understood you meant CaseIH when you said Case.
  20. OH and by the way, the clutch assist doesn't help when the tractor isn't running. It actually makes the clutch even more difficult to push. If they can't push the clutch pedal they can't start the tractor so they can't drive it anyway.
  21. Funny I never heard of these until I saw them on an endcap at Walmart last Saturday. Grabbed a bag on impulse. They're good. Expensive though. I would just as soon get a bag of bog standard Rold Gold thin pretzels with twice as much product for $1 less. But if you go down the chip aisle, pretzels are a small fraction of the shelf space. If all of a sudden clones of Dot's pretzels are lining the shelves and I can't find my Doritos anymore, I'll eat these words, but I really don't see them making any significant impact.
  22. No. Used BMWs and other luxury brands depreciate way faster than more common brands like Chevy and Ford. Reason being, the only people who want and can afford to pay the super high prices for them, buy new ones. They don't want used ones. Dealers can't get rid of the used ones unless they give them away. I personally don't see the point in buying used or leasing. You go to buy a 2, 3, 5 year old truck with reasonable miles on it, you can almost get a new one for the prices they're asking. There are no incentives or discounts on used vehicles. Dealers are not willing to move on the price of a used one where they'll knock some off on a new one. Dealers are more generous on tradein values on new vehicles. Is it all a numbers game? What isn't? When I bought my last one it was $32K for a used one with 26000 miles. or $32K for a brand new one with 10 miles.
  23. This might be less expensive, easier to find, and have other benefits:
  24. If you experience some initial difficulty getting the nut moving, use a cold chisel and a good size hammer (2-3lb) to get it started. The chisel doesn't necessarily need to be particularly sharp, because you're not trying to cut anything. Put the chisel in one of the slots angle it to point in the lefty-loosey direction and start tapping on the chisel with the hammer. Increase the intensity of the hammer blows as necessary until the nut turns. An air hammer can also be used in a similar fashion.
  25. These are also a "self-energizing" design. When working properly the friction of the discs on the actuator adds to your foot power, giving you more braking for less effort. One thing about automotive disc brakes is that you're only using a fraction of the disc's surface area for stopping. These tractor brakes use ALL the disc surface area for braking, and there are two of them per side. Drum brakes simply take up too much space and would have to be exceedingly large on a tractor. The joke is on you though. The brakes on your beloved 1066 are of very similar design, except that instead of the ramp and ball actuator, it's a hydraulic piston. In fact the braking systems on pretty much any modern tractor are based on this "inferior" disc design...
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