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Matt Kirsch

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Everything posted by Matt Kirsch

  1. When was that? This whole thing of investigating large cash transactions is relatively new. Used to be $5000 was the limit, as I recall. Probably too many to investigate so they raised the limit. The convenience of electronic money has won out. "Cash only" types can rail against it all they want, but they're a dying breed.
  2. Are you throwing the joystick to full forward lock? That will put the 3pt in the position set by the lever, which if it's set at "10" is all the way up. The only way to lower it is to push the joystick to the first position where it would spring back if let go. To get it to drop with the joystick locked forward, you need to move the lever all the way forward. Maybe it's a simple operator error. The 3pts on these tractors do not work as advertised in my experience.
  3. There is a term for that. It's called "farmer tight." Here's one of many torque charts available online. Near as I can find the bolts holding the rim to the wheel center are 5/8-18. There isn't a listing for the B250 or B414 on CaseIH's website, but the later Bradford-built Utility tractors like the 434 and 384 are there. Torque spec for 5/8-18 grade 5 is 128 ft-lbs. 100 ft-lbs should be plenty. Just keep an eye on them for a while. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/bolts/US-Recommended-Torque.aspx
  4. They would probably work if you got them unstuck. I did something similar with a gasboy.
  5. Auto correct had a field day with your post. It's really hard to tell what you're asking here.
  6. When the tire guy came to put my new tires on my 1586, he installed them tubeless on the original rims (dated 1979 on the inside). Plain jane old double bevel rims as far as I could tell, nothing special. He did have a bit of trouble seating them, had to use a strap and two bead cheetahs on one. Then he put 5 gallons of RimGuard in each tire to act as a sealer. A little squeezed out around the bead, but the tires have been holding air now for over a year. If you're doing it yourself, and putting the calcium back, I'd put the tubes in.
  7. On the old dry disc brakes, Dad would "break the glaze" with an angle grinder. They always worked good for a while after that. You really can't hurt things if you don't just "reef" on the grinder and cut deep gouges.
  8. Yeah, but admit it you'd complain about $49, and be seeking a cheaper alternative for that. When the tires were available for $49, that was about as much money as $180 is now. That's what I mean by "demand." You're not alone. Pretty much nobody is going to pay $49, let alone $180 for a tire for their 40+ year old baler. They're going to carve a tire out of a chunk of firewood first.
  9. It has a lot more to do with demand than a moustache-twirling villain sitting behind a desk stacked high with cash and gold coins.
  10. The problem is not just limited to tractor clubs. I belong to a model airplane club and it's the same there. The average age of the members is now in the mid 70's. The spirit is willing but the flesh is tired. We're probably not going to host any more large flying events because the supply of help is just about exhausted. We only have a handful of people not in their 70's, 80's and 90's and not everyone in that younger group is willing or available to help with our events.
  11. If you're unable to find anything else it looks like a bog standard hockey puck might make a serviceable cab bushing... Wouldn't be the first time someone used hockey pucks to hold up a vehicle body.
  12. It's almost certainly not equipped. Just an aside, you do not want to install the power beyond plate and plug the ports. That will deadhead the system and cause damage. If for any reason you ever need to remove the loader valve, loop the two connections together so the oil can complete its trip.
  13. "Don't have a huge budget" and "really want a turbo 06/56 series tractor" are mutually exclusive, especially in this economy. LOL. Hard starting on these old 282's is more often than not caused by bad glow plugs.
  14. If I'm not mistaken the belt pulley is a larger version of the H, and if that is the case, there are two super long bolts that go straight down through the middle of the housing into the transmission of the tractor. When we went to put the belt pulley on my Super H, the bolts could not be installed or removed without removing the fuel tank. Even if you set them in the belt pulley housing and tried to slide them in from the side, they were too long to fit. So for the last 20 years, my belt pulley drive has had two short bolts just sitting in the holes. An M does have more room under the fuel tank so it may not be an issue. Just sharing my experience.
  15. I don't think there's much choice. It's either Fehr or make your own as far as I know.
  16. Hate to nit pick here but it's D312, not DT. Google DT312 and you will get a very different answer.
  17. The bell housing bolt pattern is the same from the first 706 all the way through the last 3688. I think it might even go farther than that as I recall a 66 or 86 series front married to a Magnum powershift transmission and rear end. From 06 through 66 they were virtually the same tractor, main differences being engine and hood styling. The "sister" to our 856 was 856 from the bell housing forward, but 806 from the bell housing back. If you weren't imagining things, I suspect if you took a closer look at that "1006" it was probably all 806 from the bell housing back. I think the 66 series hood panels would bolt right on the 806 steering console. You would notice a bit of an external mismatch at the bell housing, as the 06-56 series are about 2" narrower right there.
  18. Radiator stop leaks are like painkillers. You take a pill and wonder how it knows where the hurt is and goes straight to it. The punchline here is, it doesn't. It goes everywhere and plugs into all the pain receptors. Radiator stop leak works the same way. It might stop the leak but it will also go anywhere there's a small passage, and plug it. On an old radiator like that, I'd imagine there are a lot of small passages.
  19. Don't have to. You can see them from ground level through an open (or missing) door. Two, usually three, but sometimes four colored "flippers" down by the floor below the hydraulic levers.
  20. It's an early Stage 2 Super M. Note the drum brake on the right side along with the battery box under the seat, hydraulic reservoir under the gas tank, live hydraulic pump... I have one that is nearly identical right up to the M&W clutch. Short answer is, NO. Medium answer is, nobody is making parts for the M&W clutches. Long answer is, what makes it worse is that it's a Super M clutch, which is not exactly the same as the M clutch. A lot less common, even rare. I'm considering removing mine because it only kinda works and the brake is worthless.
  21. Maybe a diesel, but nobody around here had diesel in the late 1960's. Most 806's were gassers, ALL 504s 544s 656s and 706s were gas. It wasn't until the 856 that farmers started making the jump to diesel. Biggest reason, it was another tank/pump rental, another delivery fee, for just the one tractor, and it was a hand-crank pump... Our first diesel wasn't until 1980-1981, and the next one didn't come along until 1987, and it was 1996 before we got a third diesel tractor.
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