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  • 4 weeks later...

So, it's been quite a while since I gave any updates.  Don't feel like much has been accomplished the last several weeks, even though it has.  Those who have fabricated understand I'm sure.  Sometimes you move ahead in large chunks and sometimes you do get through one thing a day.  

We spent quite a bit of time waiting on the machine shop to get the parts cut out I needed for the console.  They still aren't done welding the holes shut in the hoods.  (The decision was made to let a welding shop do that, though I'm not really sure at all why.)  I guess I'm getting ahead of myself...... let me back up to where I left off. 

 

So, with the cab repairs done, it was time to start any modifications.  No one liked the entry handles on the side of the cab.  They were great for getting up onto the first step, but after that, there was nothing to hold on to.  We talked about several different ideas.... and went and looked at the neighbors Steiger Bearcat.  Then we looked at some online pics and videos of the 73/75/7786 tractors.  All what, 4 of them out there, lol.  We decided that like the Steiger and the 77's we wanted a rail that started in the same place, but went almost to the top of the cab.  So, with some pipe and time, that's what we got.  

 

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We thought it would be a waste to get rid of the ugly original handles.  You know it's funny,  they either had a hard life, or when they made them at the factory, the welder just jammed them into something and hand bent them one handed because the bends were really bad, lol.  No picking on my bend on the LH handle.  Right one was perfect, the left.... not so much, but that was all the material I had and I wasn't doing it over.  I was also too lazy to just fill in the bend with weld.  Anyway, we re-purposed the handles.  There is nothing around the cab for doing any maintenance, or even cleaning to hang on to.  We thought since you at least wipe the windshield off from time to time, not to mention getting up front to check the brake reservoir and other such things, it needed some handles on the front of the cab.  The old side handles were positioned exactly such that you cannot see them from the seat unless you get up and really move around the cab.  Perfectly placed.  (I guess anyway..... the cab isn't on the tractor to test out.)  

 

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With that done, I replaced the little pipe the clutch rod goes through.  It was rotted out.  Then replaced all the angle iron that holds the floor plates in place, and welded it solid instead of stitch welding like was done at the factory.  Moisture and dirt got in the cracks and rotted the angle iron to nothing.  Welding it solid on top should stop that noise.  

 

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Had some circles cut on the water jet at the machine shop and plugged up the holes on the back of the cab for the different hydraulic valve configurations.  This one has a 4 spool valve, so none of the shorter holes were needed.  At the time, we didn't know what the plan was with the valve, so 4 out of 8 holes stayed.  

 

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Moved on to the top of the cab and some creature comforts.  This tractor had no radio stock, and it's getting one.  It was missing the rear speaker panel, so that was a part that got cut on the water jet and bent at the machine shop.  I did install it and add some steel brackets to the roof for hold the front from rattling.  But..... I forgot to take pictures of all of that.  So, you guys will have to wait until it's painted and assembled to see it.  We did change the size of the original speaker holes as 4X8 speakers are NLA from.... anywhere.  I went with a 6.5" round speaker hole.  That hole size will accept both a 6.5" and 5" speaker.  Also decided to add some speakers up front.  A set of 4" speakers came in a kit that was bought, and they were the right size to go up front, so that's what is going there.  I wanted speaker sizes that are easy to find and common in the auto world so that replacements are easy to find.  Nothing like going to IH and getting $10 speakers for $50.  This way we can get some nice Pioneers or something for decent money on Amazon.  (Like $30 a pair lol.  It's a tractor after all.)  Yes, the decal was left on (covered) during sandblasting.  We later found out that the vinyl company that is going to make the decals can make this one too for little to no money.  It might get replaced, but I doubt it.  It "looks fine" I am told.  (Not my decision.)  

 

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Quick note, there are several things I am now realizing that I don't have pictures of, so I will just talk about them real quick. 

I already mentioned the rear speaker panel.  I think there were like 4 bolts that held it in place originally.  Now it has.... too many.  Like 11 I think.  But I don't want that thin metal to ring.  More bolts the better.  Remember, we are going to add Dynamat to the cab, so we'll put some on the back of that panel to keep it from ringing.  

I also ground off the nuts on the top of the cab... what was left of them.  I'm assuming that's how they moved it around in the factory.  We got 4 forged eye bolts rated at 2200#.  Drilled though the top of the cab and through the ROPS supports.  I the eye bolt was installed from the top, and welded on top all the way around.  Then the stem was welded to the ROPS tube from inside and cut off with only a nub left.  Now we have 4 lifting points up top that will 1.) Not rot away and 2.) keep us from scratching the new paint when installing the cab.  The eye's are relatively small, so they won't cause any other issues.  

Any nuts that were had to access were welded on.  Like the ones that hold the seat in.  The front panel that holds the HVAC fan used self tapping bolts into a 14ga panel.... As if they still bit into anything.  Those holes were drilled to 1/4" and nuts welded on the back side.  Also, a small piece of strap was added between the two boxes for the cab filters to help stiffen up that front HVAC box.  Lots of small things like this were done, and I'm sure not nearly enough things were considered.  

A triangular "shelf" was made on the LH side of the seat.  It angles from the door to the back of the cab.  We will have a piece of plywood upholstered and bolt it on as a "buddy" seat.  The passenger will have to sit sideways with one leg behind the seat.  Got that idea from the neighbor who did the same in the Steigers for kids of wives to ride.  Not a big area.... but it's better than sitting on the floor or on a bucket, lol.  

 

Moving on.... 

So, now on the part so many were waiting to see.  The console.  I want to start out by saying that this isn't what I wanted to do, although my personal preference for a design would end up in appearance the same..... just much different in function.  And it would have been much, MUCH simpler to build.  But.... I'm not the owner, so this is what was made.  At the end, I will state how I would have built it, so if any of you want to do something you can consider it.  

It was decided to change the mounting position of the hydraulic valve.  It was also decided that straight linkage would be used.  No offset linkage, no cables, no jackshafts to change directions.... straight linkage from the handles to the spools.  The most difficult part of this design, was figuring out how to seal all this up, and get no oil in the cab... or water and dirt.... in the event of a hydraulic leak.  The console was to be bolted in and removable... or at least as much of it as possible.  So, this is what I built. 

 

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The back half of the box... the part that is angled is open to the outside as you can see.  It is welded to the cab.  The console top can be removed, as can the levers, linkage and retangular front half of the console.  There is a panel that divides and cover the top section where the actuating rods go through the box.  Once the top of the console is taken off, you can remove it and it splits around the grommets that seal up where the rods to through so that they can be removed.  The angled box keeps any oil that may leak out of the valves from running into the cab, and the angle is steep enough that water, dirt and oil will run down and out.  Overall, I'm happy with what was built... although there is an issue with it that wasn't discovered until it was done.  If you see it..... we'll just have to deal with it.  If you don't see the problem, I'm not pointing it out, lol.  (Although if you guess, I'll admit it.)  

You can also see in a couple of pics that the parking brake lever was moved to the RH side of the seat.  It's more out of the way now.  

 

 

So.... Here's how I wanted to build it.  I would have built the console pretty much as it appears, only the valve would have been left in it's original position, or moved to the center of the rear of the cab.  All linkage holes would have been welded shut.  The valves would have been cable operated and the cables run thought the bottom of the cab and routed back up to the spools which would have been pointed down.  A simple angle iron bracket welded on the cab for the cable mount on the outside, and the console could either have been bolted or welded in.  Less linkage to build, no worry of oil, dirt or water entering the cab.  Much, much simpler to have built.  If anyone copies this, I'll take $100, lol.  If you guys have any questions, feel free to ask.  

 

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On some other notes, the new turbo is installed, and we will build up the new side stack exhaust when the cab is reinstalled.  

The parking brake caliper has been removed, disassembled and lubricated.  I think it will work just fine. 

One of the service brake calipers has been removed and disassembled.  I am told it is getting new o-rings and getting reinstalled.  O-rings purchased from CIH, and a dust boot that sort of fits from O-Reilly's.  I had nothing in that.  

The brakes were made by Kelsey Hays and according to the service manual are a 1200 series caliper, but unique to construction equipment.  I found a set of dual piston calipers (Ford application and readily available) that would have taken very little modification to the original mounting to work.  Only issue was the rotor is much thinner than found on a truck application, but I think I also found my way around that too.  The dual piston calipers were a perfect match in size to go from a single piston to a dual piston.  (Same total volume) so that the original master cylinder would have worked fine.  (Unless I can't "math", lol.)  But... for now the old calipers are going back on.  I need to write down some of this info somewhere in my notes so that I have it if we need to change them later.  I put a lot of time in all that research, and don't want to do it again.  

The engine wiring harness, front harness (for the lights, horn and A/C switches) and the chassis side of the main harness have been removed, and will be mailed to Porch Electric.  They list a "main" harness, but can't verify whether that includes the engine or not.  They were more than willing to take the old harnesses and build new for us.  Porch is great to deal with and I highly recommend them!!!  

The steering cylinder "ball" mounts are very worn.  IH can still get a new mount, at $250 a piece.  (Or so they say.)  An OUTRAGEOUS price for what they are.  We are getting down to the wire on time here, so they may run as is for now, but the ball socket is a Cat 2 ball.  You can buy weld on ends on Amazon for between $12 and $25 depending on what brand, and how heavy duty you want.  It looks like "heavy duty" ones are too thick.  I'll keep you guys posted on that. 

The T-case also is mounted on the same style of mount, but use a Cat 2 link with a 1" hole.  (Cat 2 top link.)  They were rusted stuck on this tractor, so they got removed and crap heated out of them, lubed and reinstalled.  Same for the strut arm that steers the t-case that is bolted on the rear section.  It was stuck too... it got the same treatment.  

Cab and hoods are supposed to go to a paint shop tomorrow.  (Monday)  And hopefully.... not be there until May.  

I also got my own transmission removal "rail" built up for re-installation.  Still waiting on the machine shop to water jet out the trans adapter plate....

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On 3/17/2019 at 10:56 PM, J-Mech said:

Quick note, there are several things I am now realizing that I don't have pictures of, so I will just talk about them real quick. 

I already mentioned the rear speaker panel.  I think there were like 4 bolts that held it in place originally.  Now it has.... too many.  Like 11 I think.  But I don't want that thin metal to ring.  More bolts the better.  Remember, we are going to add Dynamat to the cab, so we'll put some on the back of that panel to keep it from ringing.  

I also ground off the nuts on the top of the cab... what was left of them.  I'm assuming that's how they moved it around in the factory.  We got 4 forged eye bolts rated at 2200#.  Drilled though the top of the cab and through the ROPS supports.  I the eye bolt was installed from the top, and welded on top all the way around.  Then the stem was welded to the ROPS tube from inside and cut off with only a nub left.  Now we have 4 lifting points up top that will 1.) Not rot away and 2.) keep us from scratching the new paint when installing the cab.  The eye's are relatively small, so they won't cause any other issues.  

Any nuts that were had to access were welded on.  Like the ones that hold the seat in.  The front panel that holds the HVAC fan used self tapping bolts into a 14ga panel.... As if they still bit into anything.  Those holes were drilled to 1/4" and nuts welded on the back side.  Also, a small piece of strap was added between the two boxes for the cab filters to help stiffen up that front HVAC box.  Lots of small things like this were done, and I'm sure not nearly enough things were considered.  

A triangular "shelf" was made on the LH side of the seat.  It angles from the door to the back of the cab.  We will have a piece of plywood upholstered and bolt it on as a "buddy" seat.  The passenger will have to sit sideways with one leg behind the seat.  Got that idea from the neighbor who did the same in the Steigers for kids of wives to ride.  Not a big area.... but it's better than sitting on the floor or on a bucket, lol.  

 

Moving on.... 

So, now on the part so many were waiting to see.  The console.  I want to start out by saying that this isn't what I wanted to do, although my personal preference for a design would end up in appearance the same..... just much different in function.  And it would have been much, MUCH simpler to build.  But.... I'm not the owner, so this is what was made.  At the end, I will state how I would have built it, so if any of you want to do something you can consider it.  

It was decided to change the mounting position of the hydraulic valve.  It was also decided that straight linkage would be used.  No offset linkage, no cables, no jackshafts to change directions.... straight linkage from the handles to the spools.  The most difficult part of this design, was figuring out how to seal all this up, and get no oil in the cab... or water and dirt.... in the event of a hydraulic leak.  The console was to be bolted in and removable... or at least as much of it as possible.  So, this is what I built. 

 

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The back half of the box... the part that is angled is open to the outside as you can see.  It is welded to the cab.  The console top can be removed, as can the levers, linkage and retangular front half of the console.  There is a panel that divides and cover the top section where the actuating rods go through the box.  Once the top of the console is taken off, you can remove it and it splits around the grommets that seal up where the rods to through so that they can be removed.  The angled box keeps any oil that may leak out of the valves from running into the cab, and the angle is steep enough that water, dirt and oil will run down and out.  Overall, I'm happy with what was built... although there is an issue with it that wasn't discovered until it was done.  If you see it..... we'll just have to deal with it.  If you don't see the problem, I'm not pointing it out, lol.  (Although if you guess, I'll admit it.)  

You can also see in a couple of pics that the parking brake lever was moved to the RH side of the seat.  It's more out of the way now.  

 

 

So.... Here's how I wanted to build it.  I would have built the console pretty much as it appears, only the valve would have been left in it's original position, or moved to the center of the rear of the cab.  All linkage holes would have been welded shut.  The valves would have been cable operated and the cables run thought the bottom of the cab and routed back up to the spools which would have been pointed down.  A simple angle iron bracket welded on the cab for the cable mount on the outside, and the console could either have been bolted or welded in.  Less linkage to build, no worry of oil, dirt or water entering the cab.  Much, much simpler to have built.  If anyone copies this, I'll take $100, lol.  If you guys have any questions, feel free to ask.  

 

The console turned out well. I'm going to guess that you will have to pull the levers up to put the spool in float instead of push down.

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Got down to the archives this morning.  I have 2 versions of IH 86 series 4WD brochures, the red cab and earlier white cab.  I'm not sure how many versions IH printed.  I've always preferred the looks of the red cab tractors but I'll try to go through both of them and post some pics this week.

I like the console Jon

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22 hours ago, TractormanMike.mb said:

The console turned out well. I'm going to guess that you will have to pull the levers up to put the spool in float instead of push down.

Thanks!  

Yes, that is correct.  And why it ended up that way is a long story that I don't want to get into.  I'll just say, I had given up on trying to build it more simply, so I just went with what I was told to do.  That and the valve detents are in bad shape.  It wasn't until after it was all done we discovered they were backwards.  It is what it is now I guess.  Overall, I'm still OK with it.  If necessary, I can add a lock to keep from going into the float position on accident if it's an issue. 

 

Thanks for the "likes" and comments guys.  I was beginning to think no one was interested. 

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1 hour ago, J-Mech said:

Thanks for the "likes" and comments guys.  I was beginning to think no one was interested.

Have been enjoying seeing this 4586 come back to like and the changes made. Can't wait to see it when its all done. Thanks for sharing.

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If you wouldn't have said anything I would have never spotted it but you did kind of throw the challenge out there for us. Maybe I was the only one gullible enough to accept it. Anyways like I said earlier it turned out really nice and will be a very functional addition to the tractor when it's done.

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Lol.  I probably should have just stayed quiet about it.  But, like I said it still works fine.  Thanks for the compliment.  I'm pretty happy with it.  Well see how the cab and hoods look after the painter gets done with them.  I'm not feeling real confident in his ability.  I hope I'm surprised.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looking good and making quick progress. The console looks good. I made longer levers for my 43 so don’t have to reach backwards for them. Can’t wait to see finished product 

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  • 2 weeks later...

You mentioned LED lighting. Don't skimp. There is a difference between cheap and expensive LEDs. I've tried a couple brands and Tigerlight seems to hold up the best pretty reasonable too. I actually put light bars on my 1466 looks like a space ship across the field.

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Awesome work. One thing I will suggest is go crazy with Dynamat or something similar. Do NOT get the peel and seal crap from the hardware store. Dynamat is worth the money and you have a lot of easy, flat spaces to add it. Also, I got a lot of adhesive backed sound foam made for aircraft from aircraft spruce. It's inexpensive and easy to use. I added it to the firewall and floor of my truck and made a big difference in sound.

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Thanks for the comments gents.  

I hadn't had anything to update.  We have been waiting on parts and the painter.  We got the new wiring harnesses from Porch Electric last week and got them installed.  I'll get some pictures up of that when I get the chance.  I need to update them on some information because this was the first time they had made the engine harness and the short front harness for the headlights and A/C switches.  They had to copy our old harness, which was damaged pretty bad and missing some ends and segments, but they did a great job!  

We got the cab and hoods back from the painter.  I don't have much more to say about that.  We didn't order Dynamat brand of sound material, but another brand had just as high of a rating, but came in a roll with several available lengths, and much cheaper.  I hadn't ever used anything but Dynamat, so I read a ton of reviews before ordering it.  Satisfaction rating was just as high as Dynamat was, so it should be fine.  We have some work to do to the cab before going back together with it, but I hope to start assembly this week.  It sucks it is such a wet, late year, but it may buy me enough time that we actually get to use this tractor this spring. 

20190417_161559.thumb.jpg.3c4b324355b4a6703cc46040bc61b4a4.jpg

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/20/2019 at 8:41 AM, J-Mech said:

Thanks for the comments gents.  

I hadn't had anything to update.  We have been waiting on parts and the painter.  We got the new wiring harnesses from Porch Electric last week and got them installed.  I'll get some pictures up of that when I get the chance.  I need to update them on some information because this was the first time they had made the engine harness and the short front harness for the headlights and A/C switches.  They had to copy our old harness, which was damaged pretty bad and missing some ends and segments, but they did a great job!  

We got the cab and hoods back from the painter.  I don't have much more to say about that.  We didn't order Dynamat brand of sound material, but another brand had just as high of a rating, but came in a roll with several available lengths, and much cheaper.  I hadn't ever used anything but Dynamat, so I read a ton of reviews before ordering it.  Satisfaction rating was just as high as Dynamat was, so it should be fine.  We have some work to do to the cab before going back together with it, but I hope to start assembly this week.  It sucks it is such a wet, late year, but it may buy me enough time that we actually get to use this tractor this spring. 

20190417_161559.thumb.jpg.3c4b324355b4a6703cc46040bc61b4a4.jpg

 

any updates on your progress!!!!! Been following it cause I been doing a lot of work on one also,but nothing cosmetic.

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Yes, I have updates! But bear with me as I haven't had time to upload pics to the PC.  Very busy here since it warmed up.  Mowing, gardening, and trying to farm.... which we haven't yet done, as it's still raining and doesn't look like it's going to stop anytime soon.  A few guys got some stuff planted, but not us.  We never even got anything tilled.  It's really wet, and hard to decide whether to cut it open to dry and risk making clods, or wait. Both are bad decisions, or good depending on your view.  (Glass half full or half empty.)  

We decided to repaint the black and some of the white on the cab.  Not satisfied with the paint job at all.

Anyway, sound deadening material installed, cab kit in, windows all back in, stereo installed and hoping to set the cab on maybe today.  Still have a lot more work to do.  I have lots of pics if these aren't enough. 

Not my decision to put the sound mat on the outside of the cab.  If it melts off, I'm not cleaning it up.

 

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1 hour ago, J-Mech said:

Put the cab back on the tractor today.  FINALLY!!!

 

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Looking good keep going 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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