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Everything posted by TractormanMike.mb

  1. The wear metal on this plow isn't in the best shape either. Shares and shins both could use replacing but I just haven't pulled the trigger yet. I keep saying, well I'll just plow this one more time then change them out.
  2. I had a hunch it might have been that. As a said earlier it was way too dry, the ground was very hard. I was actually surprised I was able to get the plow into the ground.
  3. The furrow was making a full circle instead of just rolling over. Ground speed didn't change anything.
  4. Here is another question for the plow experts. I did some plowing today in a food plot I'm putting in for a friend. The last bottom on my three bottom plow was turning its furrow completely over to where the grass side was up. I could not adjust it out and tried all kinds of different speeds. It was heavy sod and probably too dry to even be thinking about plowing however. Any ideas.
  5. Are you looking for oem? If you're ok with running aftermarket try an auto parts store. Advance auto carries Baldwin filters, Napa used to carry wix, we don't have a Napa close by so I can't be certain if they still do. Usually if you can get somebody good behind the counter they can look the filters up by model and application.
  6. Fuzzy dice, pinstripes, fancy wheels, one of those whistle tip things you push into the end of your exhaust pipe, and whatever trendy stickers you can put in your window.
  7. IF this tractor was in fact a 1066 and at sometime in its life something happened to it and a rear half of a 1086 was swapped out to it the top cover for the rear housing would have to be changed over also correct??? Actually, both rear covers would have to be changed or you wouldn't be able to add or check the oil level. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
  8. Sorry to hear about the accident, hope you have a speedy and full recovery. I know it will cost more but you will be much happier with a radio receiver that is an extreme duty. They are usually sold through your dealer and in some cases will just be a plug and go but as I type this I recall reading that you already purchased one. Shoup usually sells pretty good stuff so hopefully theirs works well. Don't waste time installing radios from Wal-Mart, you will be doing it again in a couple years. There are exceptions.
  9. And at the moment you can't remember where that is? Don't worry, it happens to me also.
  10. I'm probably wrong but from what I've gleaned from other threads regarding this even if it was possible third gear in a 15 is the same shaft speed as fourth gear in a 14 so if the idea was to swap the trans to make the tractor faster you wouldn't gain anything, just another year in between which may or may not be helpful. It's a combination of the ring and pinion and the planetary drives that make the 15s slower. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong
  11. You're probably right but with today's tractor prices $8000 won't get you much of a 1066 or have anything left to do much to it.
  12. What weight classes do you want to run in? Gas or diesel? Locally I've seen guys do really well with olivers and molines. I pulled an oliver 88 in its stock form and was able to be competitive. If I was looking to get back into it that's what I would look for, either a 77 or an 88. Those tractors are pretty easy to loose weight also. Stay away from John Deere two cylinders, they are heavy tractors and you really can't take much off to make them lighter.
  13. If you're really worried about it try to add a second numerical gauge in an inconspicuous location. If you have one of those digital thermometers take a few readings at different positions on the gauge and make a mental note.
  14. It looks like the plastic that surrounds a power washer tip.
  15. My advice would be to start off in fourth, get up to about a quarter throttle or so, pull the shifter into neutral, cut the throttle and try to "float" it into fifth, you may have to play with the throttle to get it in. At the lower speed stuff won't be spinning as fast and it should be easier to shift. It will take a few times to master and don't worry too much about grinding. As long as you're not forcing things you're not doing any damage.
  16. Not to take away from Eddie's post, I know I'm good for that. The comments here say that the later style ptos are the push down style but they had a 1566 at the farm that was a push down. Now I realize anything could have been switched out throughout the years but was there any rhyme or reason to what pto went on what tractor.
  17. Are the hydraulics on the tractor up to par? I used to pull an 800 with a 1566, one year I was having trouble getting the planter to raise and lower. Turns out the o-ring between the hydraulic pump and the flange was leaking internally so there wasn't enough pressure to open the valves. Fixed the o-ring and life was good again.
  18. Correct. When the solenoid is energized it sends pressure to the clutch pack to DISENGAGE the pack. In its relaxed state the clutch pack is locked up due to a large Bellevue washer. Most modern tractors going back to the John Deere 50 series are set up like this. Usually it is just a simple fuse or broken wire, sometimes it's a burnt out solenoid. If you can locate the solenoid a simple way to check is if there is a magnetic pull on the end of the post when it's engaged, but you already know that.
  19. Patience, lots of patience, and a little luck.
  20. If I'm not mistaken, the t/a delete kit costs nearly as much as it would cost to just replace the t/a itself. It takes just as much labor also it install it.
  21. Here's a question. If the ipto shaft flexing would cause the pump shaft to break because the tolerances were so close could a person possibly cut a gasket for between the pump flange and the rear case out of a thicker material to add a little more gear lash?
  22. I think every region has a diesel shop that will do it, it's just a matter of knowing who to talk to.
  23. Welcome to the forum. It seems like whenever you try to fix one thing on an old tractor you uncover a half dozen more.
  24. I always say to put anti-seize on anything that you think you might have to take apart someday.
  25. I would suspect something is wrong with the steering hand valve.
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