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J-Mech

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About J-Mech

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday November 24

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    https://www.everythingcubcadet.com/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oblong, Il
  • Interests
    Cub Cadets, IH machines, motorcycles

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  1. Or soften a load, like a shock absorber. Soften.... like an attenuator does to high pressure pulses. Different designs, same function. Anyone not being hard headed would agree they are similar in function. Not worth arguing about.
  2. Yeah, I want to know what they told you. Dealers spill BS to customers all the time. I want to know what they say it was.
  3. I don't think it was that way on the 2004's. That type of system is old and doesn't require a computer. Toyota and Lexus had it in the 90'S on their cars without the use of a BCM. I don't think the 04 Dodge trucks ran it through the BCM, but may have. Either way, it only satisfies the filament monitor and had nothing to do with the other issues.
  4. I see. Well, I think the question got answered, but I'll reiterate anyway... A regular flasher relay works based on load. Has to be a load on the circuit to make it operate. LED's don't have enough load to operate it. So, you can upgrade that to a solid state relay to get around that issue. On the brake lights, a resistor in the brake light circuit in the dash would more than likely have been enough to simulate an incandescent bulb. That way you should only have to install one resistor. I'd have to check the diagram, but I think the light monitor system is seperate from the BCM. It basically just puts a nominal current through each light so it can give a dash warning light to indicate a burnt out bulb. That nominal voltage won't light an incandescent, but the low impedance of an LED will light it even at the low amperage/voltage sent. If the BCM is wired into it, all it does is monitor for a burnt out bulb and illuminate the dash light. I don't think the 2004 Dodge trucks used any CAN buss on them. The cars and SUV's were just going to that system.
  5. I meant in your original post.... what was the question of this thread?
  6. You are right, so go correct some of the really bad info on here. Don't waste your time correcting me, I know the difference. It's like arguing the difference in a condenser and a capacitor. An accumulator and an attenuator both do the same thing, with internal differences. One is just a "heavy duty" version of the other.
  7. Blah, blah, blah.... both do the same thing. He had the idea right. For the purpose of the question it doesn't warrant a correction.... or an explanation.
  8. I know that. But the function of each is the same. They both reduce pressure spikes and surges. Just one with a bladder and a nitrogen charge, one without. Not enough of a difference in function to justify a correction.
  9. It has absolutely nothing to do with satisfying a "computer". Flasher relays won't work without a load. LED's don't have enough resistance to create the load necessary. Nor do they have enough load to satisfy the nominal voltage ran through the light bulbs to monitor for a burn out bulb. So, yes, it is a resistance issue. And of course putting a "load equalizer" (yes, it is just a resistor) fixed the problem.... so, what is your question? Why LED's wouldn't flash correctly? Or why what you did fixed it? I don't know what you are wanting to know exactly.
  10. What exactly do think an attenuator is that an accumulator isn't? Different name for the same component.
  11. Well, like most everyone here...... rain, rain, rain. We had a good run. 2 weeks straight in the field without being rained out. I was shocked, as we hadn't gone without rain every week for like 2 months. So..... we went back to work on the 4586 today. Randall says he wants it out of the shop this week...... well, I mean, YEAH. Me too! Finished welding and painting the exhaust stack frame, and painted the lower pipes after welding all the elbows and such together. Wired up the fuel pump on the pump end, just need to add a fuse and hook it up under the dash. Switched most all the lights out to LED, and installed the front light panel, center hood and RH hood so we could finish up the exhaust mock up. Exhaust runs under the hood from the turbo without issue, just like I had planned. Cut off the elbow below the chrome stack as far as I could, and that got the overall height to right at 12'. We have some short door sheds that we wanted to make sure it would fit into. Hopefully, I will work on finishing up the HVAC tomorrow, then can finish the cab interior. Not much left to do in the overall project. Likely take most of the week. Good news is, if it dries out we'll get to use it! I'll post pics of the progress when we make some progress that is picture worthy, lol.
  12. Stens or Prime Line. They are aftermarket. I have no issues with either. As far as where.... ebay, isavetractors.com, Amazon, NAPA, O'Reilly's or just about any part store. Farm supply stores usually carry those parts also. And of coarse, Cub Cadet or Kohler, if you want an OEM pump. But be ready, Kohler pumps aren't cheap. Honestly, Stens and Prime Line aren't "cheap", but cheaper than a Kohler pump. DO NOT use a cheap $15 Chinese pump. They won't last a season, and you might end up with gas inside the engine.... or all over it.
  13. That's just kind of how that series was. There is a way to adjust it some, but I can't tell you how to do it. Don't expect great things from it though. They were all that way. Makes hitching up equipment a terrible chore.
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