Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


J-Mech last won the day on July 1

J-Mech had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

255 Excellent

About J-Mech

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday November 24

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Oblong, Il
  • Interests
    Cub Cadets, IH machines, motorcycles

Recent Profile Visitors

1,314 profile views
  1. J-Mech

    Seat Cushion Set

    I never cared for some of the original seats on the 26/56 series tractors. They were too hard. The later ones like the 66 used were much better and still look right. Most people would never know. I don't think changing a seat to something more comfortable is a big deal, even for a show tractor. I collect Cub Cadets. I like them to be as original as possible, but I always put a good comfortable seat on them. I don't care if it isn't what they came with. I'm not sitting on something with no back rest, or a hard pan. But I don't show my machines, just use them.
  2. J-Mech

    Seat Cushion Set

    It does. Nothing is as good as the original. If you don't mind the cost, reupholstering the original is better, but costs more. And that's if there is anything left of the old metal parts. (On a cab-less tractor, not usually.)
  3. What doesn't make sense is the ridiculous price for a simple, SIMPLE module. An Android phone is more complicated, and costs less. "Supply and demand" you'll say..... it's still robery. Kind of like the price of a test harness. I can buy all the parts in a test harness for less than $75....most at a part store.... but they're what, $250? Yeah, I said earlier I'd run it. I read all the stuff, but I'm just thinking of the 60 hours in 4 years and $3000 for the module. I'd trade the tractor off before I'd spend it, and that's why I said that. That, and I want to know if a module can fail like the relays can. Don't see why it couldn't (fail) and potentially do the same thing. @88seriesrestorer have you ever seen a tractor with the module lock up a clutch and go into two gears? Or just the ones with test harnesses? Just curious, not debating.
  4. J-Mech

    Seat Cushion Set

    We replaced a lot of seats in tractors over the last two years. We've bought from All States, tractorseats.com, and some other places. Then we had a shop do a few. It's cheaper to buy than have them reupholstered. (Had to Google that word, lol.) Found that out the hard way. Anyway..... a lot of those places get the parts from the same place. Just got armrests for the 4586 from ASAP. They had to drop ship one because they were out at the warehouse..... it had a tractorseats.com label on it. Been happy with the quality of all so far, except one of the 2+2's. But I didn't order that one, and no idea where it came from. I'd check ASAP first. Even if it's a resell part, their shipping fees are reasonable.
  5. If it's not too tight, that will work. But I've twisted a lot of keystock into a candy cane. They make 9/16" pipe plug sockets. Google it. I found them. I have a Snap-On set of internal/external square. Set goes up to 3/8" or 1/2", but can get singles.
  6. J-Mech

    656 Hydralics

    Take your phone with the picture to your local CIH dealer and show the parts guy the pic. He'll find the part number for you.
  7. Blinding oncoming traffic is never a good thing either........
  8. You won't like that light up there. Glare on the windows and off the hood will be awful. That's why most lights are mounted low, not up above the windows on the cab. The Magnums had lights up there, and the switch had a position that included all but those. If there is any dust, it reflects it too and makes it hard to see.
  9. I put about 100 hours a year on a Cub Cadet....... and I don't mow all that much with it really. But I USE it.
  10. Yeah, I'd probably just leave it in there and forget about it too. I put in a few at the dealer and sent them on their way, lol.
  11. The Sentry module was "problematic" after years of use. CIH didn't want to mess with them at all, so they made a simple "test harness", which was actually meant to use to test to see if the Sentry module was working or the problem when an issue that pointed toward the Sentry came up. But, the tractor will work with the harness installed, so years ago when you could still get the modules, people compared the price of the module with the test harness and guess which was cheaper? (This is still the case.) Well, a lot got put in, and a lot of tractors are running them. Is it good or bad......... well...... it works. Ideal is the module, but they are almost impossible to find that work, and no one seems to want to build new or be able to repair the old. Mike Links is the '88 series guru. If you want a ton more info, talk with him. He's on here, but don't recall his forum name. http://www.triplertractors.com/ On another note, a member here built his own with simple basic parts.
  12. You don't have one. The thing circled in red is a test harness. You don't have a Sentry module. You have a test harness.
  13. J-Mech

    1066 Hydro

    I gotta laugh too. Laugh because I'm glad I don't have to seek out help from people on the internet to fix my stuff, or anyone elses. Laugh because I'm glad I can read a manual and figure things out without having to sort through all the crap. I'm happy to know what I know, whether you think so or not.
  14. J-Mech

    1066 Hydro

    There are lots of people here that will jump at the chance to say, "My tractor did something similar and it was XXXX." That isn't a diagnosis, and it really isn't helpful. All problems should be diagnosed individually, each time. At least when you're an owner working on your own equipment. I think it's a safe bet to say guys that have turned wrenches for any length of time will agree, that after a while you recognize particular failures that reoccur. As a owner, you are just trying to piggyback some experience to save time. My point is this: hooking up gauges and testing is part of diagnostics. It's likely going to have to be done, and matter of fact might be helpful to do even before coming on and asking for help. You just might find the issue on your own, and then you might remember how to test next time there's an issue. Or, you may still be totally stumped and need help, but hey.... at least you'll have some helpful pressure numbers to give us. On the subject of knowing how to operate a hydro properly..... we all jumped on you because to us, it's obvious you DON'T know, or else you would have told your neighbor, "See that pedal that looks like a clutch? It isn't. It's for starting the tractor, and panic emergencies. Forget it's there unless it's an emergency. Don't usee it like a clutch." That is how you should train someone on it. Not tell them, and worse yet, having them use it like a clutch. Sorry if you don't like the lecture, but that's the truth of the matter right there. We can go back to diagnostics now.
  15. J-Mech

    1066 Hydro

    I don't necessarily agree with you on the low/high range. Think about it. Pulling a mower, or a manure spreader.... things that aren't ground engaging. In low, the pressure might be lower, but you are pumping a ton more fluid to move the same speed. Non ground engaging equipment you are just moving the weight, so required pressure is minimal. In low range, the motor is going to almost always be in the steep swash plate angle, and the pump way up there too. That's got to be no harder on it than running in high. I've had this debate lots of time with my cousins I farm with. 2 of us go on my way of thinking, and the "old man" thinks it's better to run in low range all the time..... except, he's not a mechanic, (I am, but went back to farming) and has limited understanding of hydrostats. He just thinks slow is better (on everything) and that's not true at all.
  • Create New...