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J-Mech last won the day on July 1

J-Mech had the most liked content!

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About J-Mech

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday November 24

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    Oblong, Il
  • Interests
    Cub Cadets, IH machines, motorcycles

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  1. J-Mech

    Sims cab

    It is definitely not a cab for a Cub Cadet. It doesn't look like the one for the Lo-Boy either. Neither the CC or LB cab had the upper window. Might actually have been for a small tractor like the 240. Do you have the rest of it?
  2. You can pretty easily change engine speed.... and rear end gears. The 6BT in the early Dodge trucks only ran around 22/2400. I'm with mmi. Fix the hydro and sell the tractor. Or just sell it with a weak hydro and move on. Hydro tractors are pretty sought after. Don't trash a tractor that someone would fix.
  3. I weld the race as well. Come out easy.
  4. Sounds like you have a gutted cab. Does it have a fan and radio?
  5. Better get some weights for the back of the combine..... So, it still looks like the cylinders are pretty far out with the head on the ground. How high does it lift? Do you think it will lift the head once they are mounted where they need to be?
  6. Case IH or any reputable pump/ diesel shop.
  7. Not all brake cleaner contains the chemical that makes phosgene gas. I'm pretty sure they outlawed the chemical in brake cleaner a few years ago, but it's a good thing to check. Only if you burn the liquid was it dangerous. However..... burning off galvanize also makes fumes that can make you very sick, or cause lasting effects. Not a good idea to burn it off, but if you do, make sure you're in a well ventilated area. I still say take it to a welder.....
  8. The tank is steel. It is not galvanized. Brazing is a good choice. I'm not sure how thick it is, but I'd probably braze it. Welding it with a MIG should work fine too. If you are having issues repairing it, then take it to a welding shop. They know how to do it. Of coarse, they are going to cuss you for putting JB weld on it. That stuff is a b**** to get off so you can weld or braze.
  9. You need to replace that fitting. You don't want contaminated fuel flowing backwards into the pump.
  10. If it has a second hopper, one is for fertilizer/insecticide. Probably a Gandy unit. Gandy made most of the fertilizer boxes at that time.
  11. Return line is plugged, or pinched shut. Take it all apart and clean it out.
  12. Wide rocker arms are newer, less worn, so they fit the shaft tighter and drip less oil.
  13. I've put a lot of diff carriers, and bearings in 15's. Turning short eats them up. The way the lube system flowed, contamination would wipe out most of the right side. Are they bad tractors? No. But they had more rear end issues, I think because most of them got turned way up because the rear end could handle it, then just worked to death. They were a big tractor in their day.
  14. You're going to lose a lot of weight getting away from the cast center hub. I'd stick to regular duals. I doubt you'd break anything going the route you suggested, just not sure what you gain other than another set of tires. Unless you're farming some hills (and maybe you are) if you are planting when it's so wet you leave ruts, you're planting too wet. I don't see why duals are a "must" on an 8 row planter. We pull a 12 row with a single tire tractor.
  15. No, a service bulletin is not like a recall. They are not required, or "free".
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