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J-Mech

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About J-Mech

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  • Website URL
    https://www.everythingcubcadet.com/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oblong, Il
  • Interests
    Cub Cadets, IH machines, motorcycles

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  1. Do you own an IH chassis manual? https://www.amazon.com/International-Harvester-Chassis-Tractor-IH-S-826/dp/B01CJN9XJY
  2. Your dealer is wrong.... Wouldn't happen to be a Birkeys store would it?
  3. Maybe you have a bad cylinder in the piston pump causing a harder pulse in the system than normal. Do the hydraulics chatter much?
  4. J-Mech

    Repair shop

    Kolb Injection in Evansville, In used to be really good. They sold a couple years ago to nFlow. Talked to them recently about a turbo rebuild, and they admitted they weren't the best shop for that particular job. Have to admire that kind of honesty. They gave me the name of the shop they recommended. I would still call nFlow and talk with them. Other recommendation is Area Diesel Service in Carlinville, Il. Pretty large rebuilder. Talk to Carl. Yeah... it's worth it to ship the pump to a good shop. There are a lot of bad shops out there, as stated above. SRC isn't the only "bad" place either.
  5. I'm not going to make any judgement calls on using a crankshaft via pictures over the internet. My suggestion is send it to a machine or crankshaft shop and have it mic'd and magnafluxed if you aren't sure. Like I stated already, it is very, very rare I will reuse a crankshaft without it getting polished or ground. Usually I just let my grinder make the decision. My crank shop isn't far away, so it's easy for me. But I can and will make a decision but I would have to feel the journals and the mic reading. You can tell a lot with just your fingernail.
  6. And that looks to be a forged crank. More than likely it could be welded up. A core buyer would want a complete crank, but a scrapper just wants the iron it's made of. They don't care. I wouldn't even consider using those nasty bearings. New ones come in the rebuild kit. They'd go to the scrap with the other used parts. I'd quit fretting over the balance of the crank. It's not uncommon for those parts to remain clean and shiny just like the journals. It stays soaked in oil after all.
  7. I'm sure if you told Porch what set up you have they would build the harness to fit exactly.
  8. Call Porch Electric. They can get you a harness. Pretty simple system the 806.....
  9. None. Yes. But I'm not sure how that helps you understand anything other than lights and gauges are not necessary to make the tractor start, run and charge. Water temp gauge and oil pressure are mechanical gauges anyway.... so, wiring isn't the issue there. As I recall, there was never anything more than an amp light on the 06 series. Which if it isn't in the system may affect the charging circuit. I can't remember if it uses the light as a resistor in that system or not. Likely does. So... explain (hypothetically) how that info helps you understand the wiring system of an 806 diesel....
  10. Cheaper to buy a good used one that to replace parts in one. MUCH cheaper. That input shaft goes all the way though and it pricey. Plus, there is no need to go to the lengths involved to change it out. Plus, plus, you shouldn't go tearing into a hydro in just any environment. Others will disagree, but hydro pumps are precision parts. I suggest replacement with a good used unit.
  11. J-Mech

    IH #2 cart

    Early ones had a tag, later ones had a sticker. Those tires are likely original, and look like they are. They also date the cart as a later one, likely made in the early 80's before the sale to MTD. The early #2's used a different tire. Good score on it either way!
  12. In case you can't figure out the chart posted, it is a 21/32" wide belt 154" long. Or, since you are in Europe, 16.7MM X 3912MM. And the better belt you can buy get it. That one gets pretty warm when using the tiller.
  13. J-Mech

    1456 clutch repair

    I didn't think they used 15 springs until the hyd clutch? Or at least the 66 series. Been a couple years since I split a 1456. Last one I did got a T/A, but no clutch. Clutch was fine and the owner didn't want to replace it for no reason. (It was actually the 1456 on the farm.)
  14. That last pic is much easier to see the pitting. If it's already been turned .010" under... yeah I agree it's junk now. Pull the bearings off that other crank and post some pics. I'd say the price is good. If the crank is good, I'd buy it.
  15. I suppose anything is possible..... but it looks to me more like the shop ground the seats beyond what they should be and put new valves in. As low as they are they should have cut them out and put a seat in. Hopefully, they didn't widen the hole so wide a seat can't be installed. I do wonder if they ground the valve stem down to adjust valve setting...? As low as they are I wouldn't be surprised if they did.
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