1480x3

They are replacable, i put a set on a 863 yrs ago. they are weld-on

CIH doesn't have them ?

The key words in your question are "heavy soil". Back when cultimulchers were on most farms around here guys moldboard plowed then cultimulched followed by planting. This was on our light soils. This left a very smooth surface with rocks pushed down. 856 custom's picture of his 8920 & mulcher, that mulcher would be behind an 850 versatile or 8640. So our light soil, when firm as in the plowing pass pulls easy, 806- 6 btm or 1206- 7 btm . Once that soil is loose then your using a lot of power & traction to stay on top. The front roller would have a wave of soil pushing. Toss some hills in that a 2wd pickup wont go up before any tillage and they were the tool that required the most hp of any tillage operation, but they left a beautiful seedbed. In our soil 15 ft would give a 3588 all she would want with some hills going down being the only way to get em done. On heavy soil just busting clods on top probly 20+ft. Along with the perfect seedbed they left soil very suseptable to erosion. Mainly used now when prepping for alfalfa seeding.

I use shoup and CIH

My guess would be mint. High value crop that you would not want to blow away enroute to wagon

Teachers Pet 1066, don't know how to PM. The horse shoe shaped part of the black piece with the silver spring loaded T-handle is what holds the tip of the snout when in the storage {jacknife} position. Have not seen a non jacknife unit but that black part would be different i think. I did not put my tall corn shields back on the end fenders when i switched to the poly, have not seen any reason to after 2 seasons. If you put them on they would need to be removed to fold. To fold you disconnect the adjustment chain for snout height [ i have a zip tie in the link to put it back in the same position]. Next pull the spring loaded T-handle, lift the divider [fender] as it pivots at the back on the L-pin jacknifing it till the snout point will drop in the horse shoe thing. Simple, no tools needed and takes about 30 seconds per divider/snout. It will take longer if you have to unbolt the tall corn shields. Mine are the polytin from rock valley iowa just as you have pictured. If you look closely in 89vmaxx picture, earlier in thread, the back/top end of his left fender does not have the black steel hinge assembly that is on the one in your picture. On center dividers you get a new style hinge that i assume comes wether you get jacknife style or regular. the difference would be in the black part with the horse shoe. No horse shoe thing is needed to hold tip of snout in non jacknife setups Sorry for the long windedness.

I put that exact poly in your picture on mine 2 seasons ago. Was only gonna due 1 end so went to worthington ag to get it and the manager said he would make me a deal if i took all his stock. I came home with both ends and 2 center dividers and snouts for all. Really like them, still need to do 3 center dividers & snouts. I got the ones that jacknife. Cant recall the make, but lookes just like your picture

That is what i thought when in an earlier post i mistakenly referred to the physical size as the "chassis" , but in a reply was told only the 756 was low and both 8s were tall

Never have done the "power stop" myself. The only guys i know who did it was when they bought a brand new 1680, also their 1st and last red combine, anyhow a company guy was in field on day 1 when the power stop sheared the bolts on the rotor drive hub.

I thought the 826 and 756 had the lower radiator/grill, but the 8s are the same with the 756 different. Learn something every day. 😃

Think the chassis is a little smaller like a 756 size on the 826, could be wrong though

Got the right and left from shoup but a couple years between them. Both within the last 5 yrs. Easy install as they are 2 piece. Chunked the old one out with torch, new one fit nicely. Good to go for another 25 yrs !

There are some 826 gas out there, very rare. Saw a gas hydro on an auction a while back

Remember dad doing that on #70 plows. 3-16 behind the MTA and 4-16 behind the 560. Did not do it in corn stalks, they were already disked. Seems like he used the wires when plowing down a taller standing plant, such as a clover cover crop. When working correct the wire pulled the top few inches of the standing crop down to the furrow bottom so there was not a " MOHAWK " sticking out of every furrow as it was layed over. Think it was more about cosmetics rather than the plow plugging although perhaps there was benefit in reducing plugging as well

I never seen one without assist wheels