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Everything posted by 1480x3

  1. I'll let you know when i get finished. currently got rotor, concaves, grates, rails, and augers out so i think auger pan will go out the back. Got a pile of new parts to go in. got less than a day in tear down, only got the pan and right side shaker hanger to take off yet. Want to be ready to run Oct 1
  2. Looks like you are having about as much fun as me, I'm putting a new augerbed pan in my 2188.
  3. Don't think the 3588 had 540 on the factory data center. Think mine only has 1000
  4. I got that bucket, but mine is white with red brackets bolted on the back. It came with my 2450. I have never used it.
  5. 1st time for them in the late summer here also. The dairy i mow and bale for found them last weekend. Original plan was to mow tomorrow for custom chopper Tue, but we cut last Mon and chopper came Tue. Hay was getting worse day by day, don't know if they sprayed after the chopper or not. There was debate going on about that, this was 4th cut and probly the last of the season. Non of it was as bad as your pictures. Out of 300+ acres there might have been 20 eaten off and maybe 80 more being eaten, this is a guess from visual observation as i mowed in 14 fields. All fields had some feeding.
  6. On 2 occasions ran a whole tire, thankfully not mounted, through my 1st 1480. Blinding sun & in a cloud of bean dust. Both were small auto tires, think 14 or 15 inch. Combine had rock trap & beater, no chopper. By the time i saw them they were being pulled in the feeder, couldn't shut her down fast enough. Pulled motor down till every last horse power was used but didn't kill it, she spit em out the back. Was so glad to hear RPMs pick back up. Sure caused a plume of dust out of combine. One was along a Fedral hiway and the other a few yrs later was near a pile somebody dumped in a farm lane.
  7. Were running onland plows before going to narrow rows, so nothing changed here. Just a wider space between inner and outer tires
  8. I put some old round baler belt between the rops and the axle, top and bottom. A hillbilly isomount
  9. I have pretty good luck intentionally tightening to twist em off on the impact accessible ones, then torch the rest
  10. I would never do that, the bush hog would vibrate more than i could stand 😃
  11. I'm no good at pictures but here is what i do. 1st put a clevice in each 3pt arm with the pin through the ball. Next get a 3pt draw bar [ probly not correct name ] but a flat bar with a bunch of holes in it that connects your right & left 3pt hitch arms but don't pin it to them. the clevices are there. pick the center hole or 1 off from center if the bar has an even # of holes and bolt it to the bottom of the draw bar on the tractor in the hole in front of the hitch pin. With 3pt fully up go to your scrap pile and get a few feet of worn out 50 or 60 roller chain. Make a closed loop chain routed through the clevice down around the end of the bar you bolted to the bottom of the tractor draw bar, a big flat washer and good lynch pin keep the roller chain from slipping off the bar. The chains should be tight with 3pt fully up. You can turn as normal and pto shaft doesnt contact anything
  12. Have broke off draw bars on 806, 856, 1486, 3588, & 4020. All have been used on a grain cart, but never had one snap on a grain cart. They broke on 15 ft bush hog, 20 ft bush hog, discbine, and round baler. Now use supports on these combinations as well as grain carts. Now been probly 25 yrs since snapping one off.
  13. Baled in 1st & 2nd high with 06, 56, 66, and 86 gear drives. 2 high on 1486 with 42 inch rubber close to 10 mph. 4020 ps 5th & 6th ocaisionally catching 7th. 7250 and 275 run in 9th through 13th. last tractor i baled with before the magnums was my 1066 with slow speed engine and baled straw a few days in 3 high, but it is on short rubber also, 18.4 not 20.8
  14. Round baled a lot of hay in high range with my 186, just could not get the speed i needed in low. That's probly why its tired today, but still going at 13000+ hrs.
  15. My dealer is handling both, the new CIH oil and viscosity. I have been getting hy-tran and 15-40 delivered in bulk for probly 3 yrs. CIH price has dropped and is below viscosity at my dealer.
  16. Try "monties" in chicago. They have parts for continental engine parts. Overhauled my 350D and got stuff there.
  17. Every time i had that issue it was time to put new o-rings in the valve stack. Or just tolerate the mess if you want, did that for years also.
  18. Planning on taking mine to Grand Island for balancing in August. Got to get all the new iron on 1st. Took one from 1480#1 to the factory in 1989 for balancing. Bring yours to me, got room for 2.
  19. It would have been in the pile of parts taken out of my 7250 when the transmission was rebuilt by my CIH dealer in 2011. Used parts. Since it has been identified i know how long it has been around. Not 30 yrs as mentioned in my 1st post. Only seems like it. Also on that pile of used parts was what seemed like dozens of plates and disks as well as some other parts that are unfamiliar to me. Probly all from that rebuild. It looks to be OK to my untrained eye, but has 10000 hrs of use. Would not want to cause problems in some ones magnum so will just scrap it. There is a reason they are commonly changed as SDman says
  20. Thank you, just like to know what parts are before i take them to scrap. I located it on Messicks, but could not get to the picture or parts assembly. It will go on the truck now that i know where it was used
  21. Ya thats it, where does it go ?
  22. Found one of these while loading scrap today. Can anybody tell me what the application was ? Probly been laying around 30 yrs.
  23. Had a set of 14L-16 four rib on the 1486 that got thorns in them when they were new. Put 3 to 4 inches of "Multi Seal" tire sealant. Over a period of 2 to 3 years it pushed out through the holes and required additional product. The rotation of the tire kept coating the holes. It came in a 5 gallon pail with a pump and hose to hook to the valve stem. Looked like a thick white soup. It eventually seeped through the wounds in the tire, as said 2 to 3 years. The inside of the tire was clean and dry at this time. If you broke down the tire before it all seeped out we just scooped it up and put it back in the original pail. Product worked well and was easy to use.
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