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Posted

I've researched the topic and there are opinions all over the board about it but my conclusion is that I don't want moly additive grease in any ball bearings, tapered bearings, PTO bearings etc.  I keep two types of grease on hand, a synthetic lithium non moly grease for anti friction bearings and a calcium sulfonate based moly additive grease for plain bearings points like loader pins and I also use it on PTO CV joints. 

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Posted
Posted

Sliding wear surfaces - moly really good.  Rolling wear surfaces - moly sort of bad.  

CV joints and U-Joints are the nuanced middle I think.  They are technically rolling, but oscillate back and forth - they don’t continually roll to maintain a hydrodynamic film.  So moly is probably helpful (for sure on CV’s it’s a must).  

Probably goes without saying but “any grease is 100x better than no grease”.  

If you plan on changing grease types there can be some peril in doing that - some significant incompatibilities exist.  Don’t ask me to remember.

For all the attention oil debates get, grease is actually way more complicated and easy to screw up.  

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Posted

Modern Greases can be complicated.

We all think they act like lard and butter but they are way more complex.

Add food grade or biodegradable into the mix...

Posted

Can’t say, I use Sta-plex for everything. 

Posted

CenPeCo high pressure syntho Iube.

they have a moly too, that I will use on loader pins, if I have a gun free or plan to use the whole tube.

Oil vendors and auto stores occasionally give me valvoline synthetic grease or the like

Then I give it away.

put them both in a 1000rpm shaft and put Hp through it all day, and you’ll see temp differences.  And the CPC stays in there, instead of flying up onto my cab windows 

Posted

Actually, different greases have different applications.  It can get very complicated.

In addition to additives, various applications need different viscosity of grease.

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Posted

95% of the time, whatever high quality lithium grease your supplier carries, is probably more than adequate.  And if it has moly and less that 5% of it, all the better.

Outside of quite high temp application, that’s all a person really needs:  

Posted
7 hours ago, sd186man said:

Sorry, trailer wheel bearings are the application of interest

I can’t give you any science, but I run CRC Sta-Plex in every trailer bearing, I would say the 12 ton has the harshest service, and the campers, I tow them at 65 for hundreds of miles, put my hands on them every single time I get out of the truck, never have any heat, they always run cool. When I take them apart the grease is still clean and red often as not, which suggests that it’s doing something right, i almost never have to take up slack on the nut, I jack up and check several times a year. Put some bearing buddies on and go. 

Posted

Fwiw

When we chopped ourselves with a 900 NH we absolutely noticed more bearing replacement with non moly grease.  Noisier too...  

Just what we seen.  All we have on farm is Certified brand moly grease.  Very sticky.  Use on cattle trailer wheels which get high wt high mileage use and not seen issues.

Bobstheoilguy.com     melt your mind there in the topic.

 

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Posted
55 minutes ago, TroyDairy said:

Fwiw

When we chopped ourselves with a 900 NH we absolutely noticed more bearing replacement with non moly grease.  Noisier too...  

Just what we seen.  All we have on farm is Certified brand moly grease.  Very sticky.  Use on cattle trailer wheels which get high wt high mileage use and not seen issues.

Bobstheoilguy.com     melt your mind there in the topic.

 

I would be interested to know how speed effected your results. 

Posted

Simplest way to put it, no black or grey grease should be used in roller bearings. Blue, red, yellow, purple are all usually fine.

I learned this a the hard way. 25 years ago there was an update on our smaller track skidloaders that replaced the track roller frame. You got a new frame, all the wheels had to be swapped over. I thought we were doing a favor - we would bring the air greaser keg over and give every wheel a shot of fresh grease between the bearings. This was a black shiny grease meant for pin/bushing joints. Long story short, we had about 150 of those machines in the area and about 90% of the wheels failed the bearings - there's 24 wheels per unit. Warranty picked up the bill for a few months until they got suspicious. After that it was a rework on our dime - management was not impressed. 

Posted
16 hours ago, vtfireman85 said:

I would be interested to know how speed effected your results. 

Like wheel or bearing.?  Both are fast..... 

Posted

This topic makes me think of an International specific grease topic:

A Blockman from CaseIH came and presented at our local dealer when I was a kid.  He reminded everyone over and over again on this point:

The variable-speed rotor drive sheave on Axial-Flows spec a pure lithium grease — 251HEP is what I find when I search it now. No moly, no graphite. The solids can dry out and cake up.

He said “I can’t tell you that you must use CaseIH grease on everything, but please use it there”.  

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Posted
11 hours ago, acem said:

What color is CaseIH 252H EP grease?

Just curious

 

 

John Deere  green

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