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Sask466

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Everything posted by Sask466

  1. Not to rain on anyones parade, but truck/Ag/industrial 6cyl diesels in light duty trucks can be a step backwards in terms of comfort and drivability. A friend of mine was considering a Cummins swap into a highboy, and he got a chance to ride in the same truck that already had the swap. One ride is all it took - the truck vibrated and was quite loud. He also said if felt a bit imbalanced (front heavy/tail light). It turned him off the project. My swap is a 66 F700 cab on a IH chassis with a Dt466 - I must admit some days it feels a bit loud in the cab, vibrates pieces in the cab at idle/etc. And that’s a 5ton chassis with new cab mounts. Old cabs just kind of suck in terms of comfort - even when you try to insulate them. I feel a 5.9 Cummins is louder and shakes more that a 466 - something about a 466 seems abnormally smooth and relaxed. Not sure about a Dt360 vs a Cummins.
  2. How do the dimensions of the Dt360 compare to a 5.9Cummins? It looks so similar to a 466 in pictures, I have always wondered how it would fit in place of a 5.9. A dt466 dwarfs a 5.9cummins. All things being equal, a dt360 should hang with a 5.9 in terms of performance. One could argue the Dt is more stout than a 5.9. I think some came with Bosch ‘A’ pumps - I would think a pump shop could tune one up, or perhaps install one with bigger plungers. Or go the p-pump route - pulling shops will have adapter plates. I would follow what the 12v Cummins guys do for turbocharging - the motors should have similar requirements. And I can guarantee the stock turbo in a 360 won’t be up for much over stock power levels and be disappointing. For transmissions, do what the Fummins guys prefer in terms of automatics (ie anything but a dodge trans). For manual transmissions, the options are endless and have their pro’s/cons. MDT synchro trans are tough, but spendy if you want an overdrive. They also don’t seem to shift as nicely as the light duty diesel transmissions. The light duty trans all seem to be at the edge of holding together behind anything but a stock power diesel. Is that a divorced NP205 setup?
  3. I have had a few chances to take the truck out this spring and I have some updates. The weight I added to the back has really helped the ride. It’s still stiff, but it doesn’t have any of that harsh rebound I was getting with no weight back there. You don’t have to worry about the rear of the truck jumping around when you hit railroad tracks and stuff like that. I checked my valve lash - everything seems in check so that’s good news. The roughness the engine had around 1500rpm seems to be subsiding, so I am thinking it must be just old injectors that could probably use some attention down the road. I opened the pump up a fair bit. It feels like it has about 50% more power, at least by the “seat of my pants” dyno. It is now making around 25psi of boost vs the 15 it was doing prior. I managed to do a bit of a pull with it up a hill, and it would get into 1250F territory when I stayed into it for 10 or 15 seconds. I don’t have an intercooler, and I don’t want to deal with the hassle of making one fit. So I think that’s pretty much as far as I will take it. It’s only me driving it, I won’t ever flog on it too hard, and that’s why I installed a pyro too. I think someone on this board mentioned the old rule of thumb for stock-type 466’s was 10hp per psig, and if I had to guess, I would say that’s about where I am at (250hp). That power sure makes driving around town and the highway nicer, it feels more like a pickup truck now.
  4. You could feel the vibration at idle and lower rpm a fair bit with the 4B in 8820 Swathers too. And that motor is a fair bit away from the cab. It always made me wonder how that motor must shake in a Jeep Wrangler swap. I can’t imagine it being tolerable.
  5. That’s not really correct - It wouldn’t be much easier and it wouldn’t get you very far. The only inline pump offered to my knowledge on the DT466A/B/C was an MW Bosch, and pullers seem to hate that pump with a notable passion. An MW doesn’t have ability to support over 300 to 400hp, and requires significant work to make any better (custom machine work). The first reply is the way to go - pick a pump and then source an adapter plate and hub from a pulling shop/pump guy.
  6. Sask466

    DV-800

    Do you realize how miserable and abrasive you come off in some of your posts? Your knowledge (and you seem to be very, very knowledgeable) is what makes this forum great, but your attitude is what makes me want to throw my iphone out the window. Guess what this young lad has? It’s an obvious interest in mechanical things and things IH. Guess what his peer group probably lacks? I am betting a lack of interest in mechanical things, and almost certainly most have never heard of a DV-800. And, even if there were peers, he probably can’t go see them anyway due to Covid. Is the idea of a titanium crankshaft ludicrous to a person with your level of knowledge? Sure it probably is. It would be financially impractical, and good luck finding a place to do it. It also would do little to address the main shortcomings of that engine anyway. He would be much better served setting his sights on a more practical project. Ie, find an old truck, get it running, change some seals, drive it around, and dream/plan on throwing 5.9 Cummins into it someday. But you are missing the point here - it’s a young guy spending his time thinking about trucks and engines. I can think of a lot worse ways for a teenager to spend their time. Help the young guys out - tell the to go purchase a book like “Agricultural Mechanics: Fundamentals & Applications”. If they don’t have the scratch for the textbook, go down to the local library and see what mechanics textbooks they have. There is an old saying about if you have nothing nice to say, don’t say anything at all. That’s advice someone should have taught you when you were a teenager.
  7. That truck is in good shape! You may have the cleanest s1900 in all the land! How is the gearing? I have almost the identical drive train in my truck. IH tended to them fairly low usually.
  8. Thank you for clarifying that! I have the same manual from Peaceful Creek, and don’t have the Robert Bosch stuff either - good to know that they have that manual too. There is a manual online I have downloaded - it’s a PDF of what seems to be the original IH manual. What it lacks is specific directions on pump removal/installation, but otherwise pretty complete. Does the blue ribbon manual go over install and timing? https://injectionpumps.co.uk/pdf/bosch_pe(S)_inline_fuel_injection_pump_service_manual.pdf
  9. Is there a specific reason why these engines like so much timing? It’s always something that I have found curious. These MW Bosch DT motors seem 10deg more advanced than most comparable sized engines. Is it because the DT’s run at bit faster?
  10. The number I was impressed with was the 2096 Case, but upon further reflection I may have overstated a bit, I think.
  11. Next step is a 5th wheel hitch and a good sized camper. Next year will be ironing out any bugs, and saving for a trailer! There are some older large 5th wheel campers that come along at pretty decent prices. I am hoping I can snag a nice older unit down the road.
  12. From what I can tell of that test data, a fuel savings of 20 to 25% with a 5.9 swap looks possible, at least at these 100hp-ish outputs.
  13. It looks like the little 5.9 really holds it’s own in the fuel consumption department. I am surprised the 504 non-turbo Case did as well as it did. 986 1066 2090 2096
  14. The physical size of a 466 is much larger than a 5.9, if swaps are being considered. When you look at two, it’s obvious they are fighting in different weight classes. (Even though the 6bt crowd thinks they have the same engine as a Kenworth). Haha! The 5.9 makes way better use of space than a 466, the designers must have had in mind. The front drive/accessories area is nice and compact with its serpentine belt setup. I fit a 466 under a 1965 F-700, and it required lots of cutting; the back of the head is where the cup-holder should be.
  15. Latest update: To help deal with ride and stability, I decided to put some ballast in the back. I got a 1.25” x 28” x 72” chunk of plate mounted in between the frame rails. I then covered over the top of the frame with 1/2 plate. It should add up to around 1200lbs total. Even with the spring rear and no worth the ride was nearly tolerable, at least on highways. I aired the rear tires down a fair bit, which was a huge help. This added weight should help with getting some more sprung weight in the back. If I get sick of the ride I may do air ride at a later date, but I really want to avoid it if I can.
  16. I apologize to the original poster for my part in taking this thread down unrelated paths, I hope nobody gets too annoyed. On the topic of swaps, the mention of 3208’s came up earlier. I have the whopper of all 3208 swaps, see picture below. This car still exists in Regina, SK at least as of last year.
  17. Yeah, that’s a fair point with 220hp. But the weight is still a killer. What makes the 5.9 Cummins okay in smaller trucks is its “relatively” low weight. I think it’s 1100ish lbs. Don’t get me wrong, I am not a 6bt fanboy. I find the legend it has become a bit annoying to me for some reason. That motor wasn’t great in medium duty trucks. It certainly didn’t get its 500,000 mile longevity in medium duty trucks. I think 200k was expectable when they were worked hard. It’s a 150hp motor at best, if it’s going to spend its life pulling it’s guts out.
  18. The smaller Detroit’s seem like a good idea for swaps at first, but after a bit of research they quickly become a bad one in my opinion. The big truck engines 8v71, 8v92 had really good power to weight ratios compared to the older big inline sixes, but the smaller engines seem to be almost the opposite. I think a 6v53 is like 1800lbs and 180hp is pushing it. A 671 looks like a way bigger motor than it’s 426cubes, and I think is almost 2000lbs. An 8v92 is like 2500lbs at 500hp without big modifications. I looked at mid-size Detroit’s for my truck project, but they just didn’t make sense. A series 50 would be an interesting motor to swap into a 4386 or even a 4586. It’s a 4cyl version of a Series 60. It’s still a big engine - like 9 litres. It would be nice and short, I bet it would fit in the IH’s. Series 40 is still the best engine “Detroit” ever made?.
  19. The real question is, has anyone d282-swapped a 3/4 ton Dodge? If we can find that man and get his opinion, we can settle this argument once and for all! I think whatever floats your boat, do it. The Cummins is a much newer engine design, and there is certainly benefits from that. If that tractor is going to spend it’s next 50 years in a parade, keep it the way it is. If those same next years are planned for the field, do the Cummins swap and keep the old engine preserved. It will come in handy for the day you get sentimental for a good old-fashioned hard-starting, but still lovable, original IH. Whichever way you go, you get to be one of the lucky ones to have an old IH tractor!
  20. You can get Hawkin’s in the US? That’s awesome! I thought it was Canada-only thing! I have been eating my Ketchup-flavoured potato chips reading this thread!
  21. Has anyone have first hand experience with a 4BT in a 7xx or 8xx tractor? I wonder if the “excessive” vibration of that motor is noticeable with these tractors? I know the 4bt guys that swap these motors into 1/2 tons and stuff complain about that a lot. We had one in an 8820 swather and you could tell it was a bit of a vibrator, even with it mounted far in the back. But there is a lot more rigidity and mass in a tractor, so maybe not an issue? I would be favouring the 6bt if it fits okay. I cant see the 6bt being a issue running at lower horsepower levels. Lots of the older tractors had massive engines compared to their hp; the 2090 case comes to mind. These 5.9’s in old dodges would have sat around idling a lot, driving in city traffic, etc. They would have spent lots of time running part throttle and developing low hp. Up here in the Canadian Prairies they had wet-stacking issues, but that was mostly from guys letting their trucks idle excessively in excessively cold weather. It’s funny how the 5.9 has become such a legend of longevity. It’s really no more durable than any other good inline 6 diesel in my opinion. Sure they can go 500,000+ in the odd dodge truck, but that’s really a low stress application. Rarely is that engine producing 200+hp all day long in a 3/4 ton truck. 855 Cummins used to do 15000hrs in 400hp highway trucks, and were getting tired in 300hp Versatile’s by 5000 or 6000hrs. I think longevity really comes down to the application. Our neighbour had a 5.9 in a mid-90’s Rogator sprayer. I was 180hp and often in wet/soft field conditions. That engine was fully, fully wore out in 4500hrs. It got a major OH at that time. But that poor engine would have worked its guts out pretty 100% of the time. Good 4bt’s also seem to cost way more that a 6bt, like also twice as much it seems. I’m not set on IH vs Cummins, but I will take a six over a four-banger anytime I can. A more modern six would make an already good IH tractor better in my opinion.
  22. I have a truck with a DT466 transplant - if you are curious about the build/truck I have a thread over in the projects area. I posted the my question below on that thread, but it didn’t get much action being in the projects section. This truck sat with very little use for about 5 years prior to me building it up (which took another 5 years). The pump is set at the bone-stock settings, with the exception of the aneroid loosened up a bit The truck starts, idles and runs great. The engine seemed to have a slight miss/unevenness between 1000 to 1500rpm. It also seemed very intolerant of lugging. If you idle it down to go around a corner and then gently get back in the throttle it has a slight shuddering feeling. I am talking no load and low speeds - not what you would typically call “lugging”. I think it is the injectors. Before I did my first long trip (3 hrs), I dumped a bottle of Stanadyne supplement and a bottle of 2-stroke oil in the tank. After driving about 2 hours, I was happily surprised to see most of that miss cleared up. The low rpm lug/shudder has mostly cleared up too. I’m not sure if it’s the fuel concoction I put in, or the running for 2hrs straight at a good load. It’s probably mostly the running under load, but who knows. When I get some time and more cash, I will do the injectors. Any tips on injectors? Should I buy rebuilds and do core returns? Should I have a local shop test/rebuild the ones I have? Just curious if there are any quality issues with exchange injectors that I should be aware of.
  23. I had no idea there were machines up there in the 10,000 range. That is a testament to the AF design. I guess I learned something today everyone else already knew!
  24. The 1480 in that sale has over 7900hrs! Assuming no typo, that must be a record?! 4000hrs for a combine seems like the normal high-mark, up in the Canadian prairies anyway.
  25. Not too many updates. I took the truck on a 6hr round trip. It’s pretty comfortable on the highway. It runs pretty nice at 2000rpm at 65mph now. It seems to be a nice spot for the DT466 to run at - at least with just the truck and no trailer. I got 14mpg, mostly at 65 to 70mph and maybe one shot to 89mph... I was pretty happy with that mileage. The old 466 is pretty much as fuel efficient as a new truck that size. The electric fans are doing well. It was 30degC (85F) for most of the trip and the engine never swayed from 180F. No big hills here, and again wasn’t pulling anything. The engine seemed to have a slight miss/unevenness between 1000 to 1500rpm. It also seems very intolerant of lugging. If you idle it down around a corner and then gently get back in the throttle it has a slight shuddering feeling. I am talking no load and low speeds - not what you would typically call “lugging”. I think it is the injectors. Before I did that trip, I dumped a bottle of Stanadyne supplement and a bottle of 2-stroke oil in the tank. After driving about 2 hours, I was happily surprised to see most of that miss cleared up. The low rpm lug/shudder has mostly cleared up too. I’m not sure if it’s the fuel concoction I put in, or the running for 2hrs straight at load. It’s probably mostly the running under load, but who knows. When I get some time and more cash, I will do the injectors. Any tips on injectors? Should I buy rebuilds and do core returns? Should I have a local shop test/rebuild the ones I have? Just curious if there are any quality issues with injectors that I should be aware of.
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