Jump to content

Sask466

Members
  • Posts

    241
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Sask466

  • Birthday 10/05/1980

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

1,750 profile views

Sask466's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/3)

126

Reputation

  1. I checked the valves on my truck (1986), so a 468T block. I live in Canada. My Navistar dealer listed the gasket at $160ish, and the CaseIH dealer was much cheaper (like $40 or something). I can’t quite remember was last year. I also bought new gasket washers for the hold downs. My old gasket was rubber, but old and hard. The new gasket is a hard paper-type one. The old gasket never leaked. I had already heard of all the pitfalls/traps of these valve covers. So I was very careful about alignment/checking for straightness in the cover, not overtorqueing so i thought I was good. Well guess what? The cover leaks! Maybe I screwed something up - I will check when I take it off. I am a little worried about what gasket to get next. I don’t know if the Navistar gasket is even rubber, but it’s terribly expensive. Does anyone have any ideas on where a person can source a good jobber gasket? Preferably rubber?
  2. Sask466

    414

    You can say that again!
  3. I think marine engines don’t have an expectation or requirement to last as long as they do in a truck or tractor. I looked into this years ago, and if I recall correctly 3000hrs in most boats is a lifetime, at least for the recreational applications. I think they can get away with running at higher horsepower, because they don’t need to last as long. Truck applications have higher hp ratings, but they don’t run at those horsepower levels a high percentage of the time. Those motors get lots of idle time, rev up, rev down, etc. A big 4wd tillage tractor runs at full horsepower the majority of its life. A 4wd tillage tractor is a pretty miserable life for an engine. High duty cycle and dirt. Combines must be the worst of them all. The 8.3 Cummins engines in those high rpm 1660/80 series had a tough job!
  4. Not to rain on anyones parade, but truck/Ag/industrial 6cyl diesels in light duty trucks can be a step backwards in terms of comfort and drivability. A friend of mine was considering a Cummins swap into a highboy, and he got a chance to ride in the same truck that already had the swap. One ride is all it took - the truck vibrated and was quite loud. He also said if felt a bit imbalanced (front heavy/tail light). It turned him off the project. My swap is a 66 F700 cab on a IH chassis with a Dt466 - I must admit some days it feels a bit loud in the cab, vibrates pieces in the cab at idle/etc. And that’s a 5ton chassis with new cab mounts. Old cabs just kind of suck in terms of comfort - even when you try to insulate them. I feel a 5.9 Cummins is louder and shakes more that a 466 - something about a 466 seems abnormally smooth and relaxed. Not sure about a Dt360 vs a Cummins.
  5. How do the dimensions of the Dt360 compare to a 5.9Cummins? It looks so similar to a 466 in pictures, I have always wondered how it would fit in place of a 5.9. A dt466 dwarfs a 5.9cummins. All things being equal, a dt360 should hang with a 5.9 in terms of performance. One could argue the Dt is more stout than a 5.9. I think some came with Bosch ‘A’ pumps - I would think a pump shop could tune one up, or perhaps install one with bigger plungers. Or go the p-pump route - pulling shops will have adapter plates. I would follow what the 12v Cummins guys do for turbocharging - the motors should have similar requirements. And I can guarantee the stock turbo in a 360 won’t be up for much over stock power levels and be disappointing. For transmissions, do what the Fummins guys prefer in terms of automatics (ie anything but a dodge trans). For manual transmissions, the options are endless and have their pro’s/cons. MDT synchro trans are tough, but spendy if you want an overdrive. They also don’t seem to shift as nicely as the light duty diesel transmissions. The light duty trans all seem to be at the edge of holding together behind anything but a stock power diesel. Is that a divorced NP205 setup?
  6. I recently bought a set of JK Custom Boots from a family run shop in Spokane. They primarily build logger boots, but can make pretty much anything in a work boot. They are custom fit using tracings and measurements you send in by email. I can say that the fit is unreal compared to every other shoe/boot I have ever worn. It was about a 6wk lead time and $550USD (don’t convert that into $CAD!). They are rebuildable, so there is a legitimate argument in terms of long term cost of ownership vs something like a RedWing or Thorogood. I hike in these boots often and 8miles is not problem at all. I plan on getting a second pair in the next year, so I can alternate them.
  7. I have had a few chances to take the truck out this spring and I have some updates. The weight I added to the back has really helped the ride. It’s still stiff, but it doesn’t have any of that harsh rebound I was getting with no weight back there. You don’t have to worry about the rear of the truck jumping around when you hit railroad tracks and stuff like that. I checked my valve lash - everything seems in check so that’s good news. The roughness the engine had around 1500rpm seems to be subsiding, so I am thinking it must be just old injectors that could probably use some attention down the road. I opened the pump up a fair bit. It feels like it has about 50% more power, at least by the “seat of my pants” dyno. It is now making around 25psi of boost vs the 15 it was doing prior. I managed to do a bit of a pull with it up a hill, and it would get into 1250F territory when I stayed into it for 10 or 15 seconds. I don’t have an intercooler, and I don’t want to deal with the hassle of making one fit. So I think that’s pretty much as far as I will take it. It’s only me driving it, I won’t ever flog on it too hard, and that’s why I installed a pyro too. I think someone on this board mentioned the old rule of thumb for stock-type 466’s was 10hp per psig, and if I had to guess, I would say that’s about where I am at (250hp). That power sure makes driving around town and the highway nicer, it feels more like a pickup truck now.
  8. You could feel the vibration at idle and lower rpm a fair bit with the 4B in 8820 Swathers too. And that motor is a fair bit away from the cab. It always made me wonder how that motor must shake in a Jeep Wrangler swap. I can’t imagine it being tolerable.
  9. What’s the deal with aluminum frame - read the description, it says “new breaks”! Most of the aluminum frames I have seen have mostly had “old breaks” ?. Joking aside - it wasn’t uncommon for manufacturers to use aluminum frames back in the 70’s. Mack, Kenworth and probably a few others tried it too. I guess the big plus was the weight savings. But, they all seemed to eventually develop cracks from I am assuming was fatigue failure. All the truck manufacturers moved away from use of aluminum on frames by some time in the 80’s, at least from what I have observed (I am no expert).
  10. That’s not really correct - It wouldn’t be much easier and it wouldn’t get you very far. The only inline pump offered to my knowledge on the DT466A/B/C was an MW Bosch, and pullers seem to hate that pump with a notable passion. An MW doesn’t have ability to support over 300 to 400hp, and requires significant work to make any better (custom machine work). The first reply is the way to go - pick a pump and then source an adapter plate and hub from a pulling shop/pump guy.
  11. I found this manual to be very helpful when I shortened my truck: https://www.waterousco.com/media/pdfs/J3311-1-DSSP.pdf Also, to save anyone the hassle that may be doing this type of work - DONT use those angle finder apps for your phone. It’s terrible. I have a proper digital angle gauge and compared the two - sometimes the iPhone was out by 2 degrees when you repeated a measurement.
  12. The four companies I have seen are White’s, Nick’s, Frank’s and JK boots. I think the size of the companies are in that order (large to small). Whites are the original company (for like 100yrs) and the others are spin-off’s. I think all four make super high quality and are pretty comparable boots. JK and Frank’s are smaller companies, so you talk with the owners (or their sons) when you call. They all seem to make different versions and all have a low heel model too. You can also get iron worker (heel-less) sole options. I was a bit nervous about buying a logger heel - but it really does help posture as well. It brings your hip forward a bit and your shoulders back and seems to take strain off your lower back - if that makes sense.
  13. From months of winter shut-in, for some reason I got into boots. I came to find that Spokane is home to 4 different custom boot makers. They are all known for making a similar style boot. Custom fit logger and wildland firefighter boots - tall heels for arch support and thick leather. If you google Spokane work boots I am sure you will find one of them - I am not here to peddle anyone’s product. I bit the bullet and bought a pair (they are $500USD). I must say I am impressed. I sent in measurements and tracings of my feet, and these things are glove-fit. Is anyone else running these type of boots?
  14. This was outside of Swift Current, SK about a week ago. It was -49C (-56F) with the windchill. It was about 60km/h (40mph) winds. Although we get colder than that at times, it’s rare to have that nasty of a wind. It was brutal - I had to spend about 2hrs throughput the day out there. I have no idea how rabbits, coyotes and whitetail deer survive this stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...