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About Sask466

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/05/1980

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    Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

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  1. Well I have had the truck out a bit now. I have over 100miles on the new odometerIt is running quite well. Starts good, idles clean, power is acceptable (I haven’t messed with the pump yet). It does seem to have a bit of shake/roughness (pretty subtle) from about 1200 to 1500rpm. I think the exhaust note is a little uneven in that range too (again, quite subtle). I seem to have a knack for noticing these types of things, and then fixating and driving myself crazy. The balancer appears to be in good shape. My gut feel (based on very, very limited diesel diagnosis skills) is injectors? At idle to 1000ish rpm it’s quite smooth, and smooth as silk from 1600 to 2700. It’s also seems to pull okay through that rough rpm range. I have an oil leak at the front of my injection pump, so I am planning on a bit of work on the fuel system this winter. I also haven’t checked the valves yet. My thought was the old IH truck ran good enough before I embarked on this project why mess with a bunch of stuff that isn’t broke. The idea being get a good baseline/shakedown of the new truck prior to a bunch of “fine-tuning”. Note the truck has ran very little in the past 10-12 years, so it’s probably a wonder it runs so well. The entire fuel system up to the pump is now new, same on the return side.
  2. I can’t tell you that detail about the grill either. I was told it was a 66 when I bought it, and then figured it was a 65 when I researched the grill. I have found several parts (which appear to be original) with 1966 markings, for example the windshield motor has a painted stencil with 1966. I have heard that the medium duty stuff often to hangover parts from the F100/250/350’s, maybe that’s the case? I also doubt the grill has even been replaced . I haven’t ever seen a 1960’s F500/600/700 with that hood scoop, but the larger “super duty” F800 and up had that scoop in the 60’s. I found my scoop off of a late 50’s tandem. If you ever have a chance to grab one, do it. That are worth a couple hundred in really good condition. If I have my story straight, Pontiac actually used this scoop from FoMoCo on some of their early 60’s muscle/drag cars.
  3. It was the valve cover that had that timing on it, so who knows. At a truck that age, the history gets murky. I am 100% it is an original Bosch MW engine though - injector lines are OE, truck is and 86 and hasn’t seemed too tampered with, and 200000miles, etc.
  4. This is great info, thank you! Yes I have been told the 5488’s etc with the MW pump are timed at 24deg from past questions on this forum. My engine tag says 18, but it seems to be set at 24deg, so go figure. Should I also replace part number 32 if it’s in bad shape? Or does it not matter if it leaks? (I can’t tell if the o-ring #34 seals around the pump bearing housing #33 , or just the outer face of it). I am probably asking questions that are hard to answer without tearing into things, I just want to get my parts lined-up best I can.
  5. I have a 466C and IH chassis under a 1966 Merc F700 - if anyone is curious about the truck you check it out in the Proejcts section of this forum. Apparently it was the end of the day when I painted the bottom side of the injection pump - kind of embarrassing to post this picture! The pump had a massive ball of dirt and oil on the bottom of it when I first bought it. I figured it was that cheapy tin cover/pan on the bottom of the pump, since they are known to be problematic. I replaced it - I think it may have been leaking too as the o-ring didn’t look too healthy on the old cover. I have my project in the final stages and I am starting to use the truck. It appears I still have a small drip coming back. It looks be between the injection pump and the pump adapter plate. I am still searching for a 466c service manual, and I haven’t had much luck on the internet either. Note that open bolt hole is not leaking, for some reason the bolt was missing, and I plugged it with a bit of shop towel, and it’s stayed bone dry. It looks like the pump has to come off. To confirm, am I correct that I am best off pulling the adapter plate and pump as one whole unit? Does this allow the front drive gear stay attached to the pump? There is a plug on the side of the adapter plate with timing marks in it. If I bump the engine over and get these marks lined up, I assume that will make re-install easier? I don’t plan on turning the engine or pump while things are apart anyway. In terms of what’s leaking - what seals between the pump and the front adapter plate? Is it part# 34 - it’s labelled as the “front bearing housing ring”. That could mean a few different things I suppose... (those parts diagrams are from an old IH MW Bosch pump manual available by a quick google search if anyone is looking)
  6. I have a engine design theory question - I have been logging a fair bit of time on the road for work; it’s left my mind with spare time to wonder and pontificate! First off - my intent is not to start an IH vs Case “which is better discussion” debate - I don’t want to start and brand war. We loved both tractors mentioned below and they each had their pluses and minuses. My observations below are completely subjective and believe it or not, my “gut feelings” have been proved wrong before! I grew up on a grain farm, and when I was young we had a 2590 and a 1586 as main field tractors. At full rated RPM, the 1586 didn’t feel too far away at all from the 2590 in terms of power. The 2590 did seem to be an overachiever on the dyno from factory though - it seemed to always do 195 on the dyno when it was in the shop. The difference really showed at the RPM levels - the IH would really light up around 1800rpm, almost where the Case started to fall off. The torque at 1500rpm on these two engines wasn’t even comparable. A neighbor had a 5488, and the difference was less, but it still didn’t have near the low end grunt the Case had. But on pull-type 1482’s in the same field that 5488 had a ton of power (as much or more than the Case) at it’s rated rpm. I finished building an only F700 Mercury truck with a DT466 transplant, and I am once again reminded of those DT’s - it really doesn’t light up at all until 1800, and then comes on like a freight train. It’s got the never MW inline pump. My question is - what makes these two engines so much different is power curves? The crank stroke on the Case is a bit longer (10%ish). The displacement is about 10% more... Are the cams fundamentally different? Is the main difference only in fuel pump settings? Are their reasons the DT can’t handle these lower rpm torque figures? It seems like the DT is a stout engine. Are the blocks, cranks or heads not up to the task vs say a 504 Case or 505 Cummins? What was IH’s idea with higher rpm? It seems like high rpm was an IH philosophy? Another example of this were the old Mack’s - a 300hp 673cube Mack engine seemed to have more bottom end torque than a 350hp 855 Cummins. I also heard the Cummins wouldn’t last being lugged and they did seem to like rpm. Those old Mack’s were pretty much done by 1800rpm where the power seemed to just fall off quickly. The old Cummins was just starting to party at 1600 rpm - they pulled hard to 2100. What made these two engines characteristics so much differnent?
  7. Awesome looking truck! I have a similar, but almost opposite project - A 60’s Mercury (same as Ford) F700 on a newer IH frame. It looks you had to cut a similar sized hole in the firewall. Are you doing a removable doghouse, or welding it in? That part of the project was a bit of a pain for me - fun but lots of time to get it right. It’s coming along great! That newer chassis will make the truck way more drivable. I took 5 or 6 years to get mine nearly done - if I tried to rush it any quicker, it would have felt like a job and not as much fun. It looks like you are doing it right - that so much more important than doing it fast!
  8. R Pope, sorry I missed your reply! I find myself in your neck of the woods (so to speak, haha) 2 or 3 times a year, next time I am up in your area I will send you a note! Maybe I will take the Lemsford Ferry and come see you!
  9. The trick with fitting a road ranger would be figuring out the parking brake - I assume your truck is hydraulic brakes and the existing park brake mounts on the back of the trans? I have a very similar drivetrain in my truck and I can’t see to find any road ranger options with a parkbrake (all trucks that class had air brakes). A lot (I bet probably more than half) of MDT trans that are 6 speeds are NOT overdrive, and the difference in identification are only serial/model numbers, so be wary. Also, fast rear ends in the 2speeds are rare (mine is a Spicer M190T with a 4.88 ratio, and fast gear sets/3rd members seem extremely hard to find). Most are slower, as they were mostly on gas-jobs.
  10. Looking great! I love the stance, love the the colour!
  11. Sask466


    Well in my opinion this board has plenty of space for dreamers and young guys. The overall positive energy and helpfulness of RedPower is what keeps me coming back, and probably partly why it still exists. Keep the fun discussion coming! We need it right now!
  12. I moved the IH’s rad downwards about 6” to be able to fit under the hood of the Mercury. The nose of the IH was much higher than the Mercury. The fans on the truck 466’s also sit quite high, and would never clear the hood. As a result, I went with electric fans, something I tried to avoid but have no choice. I am using 2 Spal 16” fans - which are about the best fans I could find. There are 5.9 Dodge Cummins electric fan kits, and people seem to say they work well as long as long they don’t pull too heavy. I made a shroud for it, and built an expansion tank over the rad.
  13. Sask466


    Well I am 36 and still haven’t grown up, so I am not sure what your point is...
  14. Sask466


    One thing is for certain about a DV-800 - that sound is unmistakable, powerful, and next to perfection. The trick was keeping it making that perfect sound, without going broke doing it!
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