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Binderoid

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Everything posted by Binderoid

  1. Tony, I had a chance to ruminate on your reply of 9-12, just had a couple questions. Your guidelines seem reasonable enough, but I can see a couple places the subject can innocently derail. Regarding tractor restoration, 90% of our restoration supplies come from a well known foreign country. One or two posts from an unhappy customer could start an avalanche going in a couple different directions. What would be a good way to stop these posts when they become apparent? Regarding current affairs, that means different things to different people, like from a PTA meeting to Afghanistan. Could you clarify that a little? Make the forum subscriber only? Be interesting to see what comes up the tailings elevator on that one.
  2. Tony, that was an awesome response , thank you. You are correct, nothing is going to be solved by keyboard anyway.
  3. I would also bet these “disturbers” who don’t subscribe to the magazine have priceless knowledge that will soon be lost to history. Some of these “disturbers” had IH dealerships or actually built the tractors. Some of these “disturbers” are also WWll veterans, have lived through the depression, who are BOUND to have an opinion on the state of the United States today, what is wrong with that? If you (that is, anybody) don’t like that kind of topics, why do you go up there just to get mad about it? The claims of unhappiness are from those who don’t want to be there anyway... “ the same old bs...” I must have missed it somehow, but If someone provides evidence that punches were thrown over any topic in Coffee Shop within the last 30 days I will apologize and say no more about it
  4. I understand your intent, I think the letter was perfectly executed.
  5. There’s one thing wrong with this image. Shortly before before C.S. got dumped, until now, I’ve been following the topics closely. What was missing in your image, was the rioting. That came later, as coffee shop regulars became regarded as infiltrators. The general IH guys want coffee shop back just to get rid of the foreigners. Now we have separatists. Canceling Coffee Shop did more damage among members than watered down politics ever did.
  6. Did you try a hydraulic shop and try matching something up? If this fails, might consider making a slug that takes a readily obtainable seal , and shorten the piston to accommodate the width of the slug.
  7. I don’t see why that would make a difference. From the tensioning device at or near the twine box, around the bale, to the point where the twine is held by the twine disc, the twine is held taut. During the tying cycle, twine tension is maintained right up to where the needle twine is laid in the twine disc. This means all those little kinks are stretched out throughout the system, and the billhook has no kinky twine to deal with. I suspect pulling 20ft. out of the ball and the knotter tying is just coincidence. One screw on that knotter needs a tiny adjustment.
  8. I actually had one tech tell me that the kinky twine in the beginning of the ball was the problem. I said “what , so we have to just yank out 100 feet of twine from every ball and throw it away? He turned a few screws and the baler took a notion and started tying again, just as it had done since it was new. It wasn’t until years later I had a helper turn the flywheel and watch it tie in slow motion did I discover the problem. It had nothing to do with any of the adjustments he had made.
  9. Binderoid

    My SA

    That’s a good idea, but would be better to put the tube of grease in a 5 gallon pail with the oil and mix with one of those auger paint mixers, then pour it in the trans. Otherwise, the glob of grease may just fall to the bottom and do nothing.
  10. Check that guy off your list of who to lend things to. Unless he’s making plans to be there for the repair.... did he even put any fuel in it?
  11. Question 3: “ Cost is not a consideration “ Then what are you waiting for? Get a full engine set and a ring expander and install them in the order they are packed. Near the gap, they are marked with a dot. Install with dot facing up . No dot means either side up. Any special instructions will be detailed on the package. By “imperfect match” do you mean different style or don’t fit? If you can’t get the rings from the people who made the piston 10 years ago, this is what you’re stuck with. If the rings fit the piston, install them as packaged and don’t worry about the style. Engineering technology has changed in 10 years. If they are too loose or too tight in the groove you will have to consult your machinist for a solution. Lastly, when mixing parts from different manufacturers, check each ring in the cylinder for proper gap.
  12. Something fishy going on there. If it’s property of a municipality, it has to be auctioned off publicly, not sold to the first guy who walks in off the street. Unless maybe there’s more to this situation than you have presented so far.
  13. Binderoid

    My SA

    “She’s gonna need... points, plugs, valves, bearings, water pump, fuel pump, oil pump, starter switch , ignition switch, ignition warrs, radiator hose and radiator hose Covers” “ And I can throw in a good warsh job...”
  14. The only change I’d make is give the bananas to the C-IH mechanic and the serviceman shirts to the monkeys because they are obviously smarter. What is this universal fear of IH knotters? They work the same way as anything else except they don’t have a wiper arm and twine fingers. How can fewer parts be more complicated? They are really quite easy to understand if someone would take a few minutes and study them, instead of using the time to perpetuate senseless myths.
  15. Your machine shop can get any number of rings from Hastings.
  16. If the broken piece cannot be found, you might consider welding a block of steel in its place and drill and tap a new hole. That frame will swing far enough around to allow a comfortable brazing position on most sides. Just spray the chaff down with a hose so it won’t catch fire. I would guess a competent welder can fix that in under 3 hours if it were in his shop.
  17. I was just about to say that same thing! 2 main shaft bearings and inner and outer for 1 axle was over $400, from Rice equipment in Clarion Pa. (for W-12)
  18. Never heard of sturdy sleeve but if it’s stainless it should be ok. One feature CR had was a way to remove the flange after it was driven on, if required for clearance reasons. Just grab it with side cutters and there was a groove in the circumference that let it tear off cleanly.
  19. You are correct. Use the factory seal with whatever sleeve is recommended by your supplier.
  20. The stem is part of the can in some cases and when that breaks off , it’s over. Blaster is one of them. I cut the can open and empty it into a squirt can.
  21. I expect you’ll be getting a cease and desist letter from Quick-Start’s lawyers pretty soon......
  22. I noticed that they were able to lock down 2 other threads that had the word, “coffee “, without throwing out the whole board. Isn’t technology wonderful?
  23. Why not get on a wood lathe, make a pattern, and cast one? High school stuff. Why all the secrecy? We’re gonna wait 5 years for the unveiling of a secret project? You’re probably making an ash tray
  24. Yes. You should have bought 22.5’s Those are a direct bolt-on. Check some scrap yards because they remove all the tires before they process a truck or school bus. You can get some dang nice tires and rims already assembled for 50$ each .
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