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Cattech

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About Cattech

  • Birthday 02/01/1977

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    Clear Lake, MN

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  1. Good point, Germany is 1/2 commie and haven't exactly been friends over the years. And I just haven't liked the feel of the Swede's saws. Got a couple McColloch 10-10s my dad wanted to get going. There's a runner sitting in his garage my step ma won't let me grab yet. These are going to need some TLC. Back to the G466 chink saw... I put a new chunk of rope on, so giving it a pull in frustration doesn't come up 6" short. And the Stens True Blue rope seems high quality. I took the carb apart and found a sliver of plastic in the diaphragm chamber. Thinking it was stuck in a flapper and made it quit pumping fuel. I did mess up a bit too, I must have cranked on the low jet when I meant to adjust the high, as that screw was way to far out. Ran it today, no problems and a pleasant machine to use.
  2. I run Cat batteries in everything I can, haven't had a bad one yet... it helps that I get an employee discount (an automotive sized battery is about same price as a premium line Walmart) and the parts department will call counter is between my desk and the parking lot.
  3. Odds of catching that on camera is about equivalent to the train that collided with a barge. If you made it up, no one would believe you.
  4. More or less, a pretty crazy and unfortunate situation that would be near impossible to recreate. You could hardly even do it on purpose. If the train was 10 minutes earlier or later, if they had pushed the barges up at just a slightly different angle, or up/down stream by just 20'... it may have been close but not a collision. If I had been part of the ordeal, I would have gone straight to a convenience store and bought a lotto ticket and would be very shy of lightning storms.
  5. What year did Dodge include the exhaust brake from factory? Pretty sure that's what is being referred to. As a heavy-duty mechanic, we refer to them as potato brakes... like ramming a potato up a tailpipe. For the uninitiated, Jake brake is/was an oil controlled housing that held exhaust valves partially open to create an air compressor effect to slow the engine. I honestly didn't know anyone made such a mechanism for a 4v 5.9l Cummapart.
  6. An automatic trans runs the pump if the engine is turning the converter unless you strip the outer spline of the converter. Park or neutral, the converter is usually pressurized... it is spinning and therefore has to have lubrication whether trans is turning or not. Spinning the rotating mass of an auto is important though, it rinses down the upper part of the case. Getting the trans through all the gears exercises all the clutch and servo piston seals. Not necessary, but can't really hurt anything.
  7. I wonder if the owner just wanted to prove their 3020 could do it, or if they actually run like that..? Pull type out of popularity or not, I can't imagine a 9601 being cheap... and you would really have to be dedicated to a "MUST HAVE ONE" mentality to spend the money buying a PT 9600. If you have the dispensable funds to buy a rare PT combine, you probably could afford a proper size tractor to run it..... so, makes no sense. AND... Too make a 3020 live under that load? A few years back Dad's 4320 went down planting, so he hooked his 3010D (with 3020D internals) to the 6/30 JD 7200.... amazingly the hyd system could handle running the vacuum pump load... but the weight of a loaded planter was more than it should have pulled. Regrettably, I set the pump hot when I rebuilt it, so the engine probably made 80-85 hp, no turbo. A prudent operator would know not to use it long. After a 1/2 day of planting, it developed a miss..... I found a bent exhaust valve. The valves got so hot they swelled & started sticking in the guides. All 4 pistons had stamp marks from slapping the valves, all 4 exhaust valves had scoring on the stems.... the upper liners looked blue. So, how long you think that 3020 would live in this application? Hopefully the owner has considered it!
  8. Driving down the road is going to be superior to leaving it parked and just warming it up. You need to stir up the axle oil, roll the flat spots out of the tires, and get some fresh air blown about the underside of the body. When you say Jake brake, I assume you mean exhaust brake, not the same thing. By my thinking, that is probably going to do more harm than good since it's a valve blocking exhaust flow.... Engine sounds like it's working, but it's actually choking on its own exhaust and building up carbon. In normal driving that carbon would be burned off under load but... I'm going to assume you park the truck in some way that prevents easy access? As eluded to above, taking it for a spin once a month or so would be the best plan in my opinion. If driving it is not an option, for a warm up cycle, I would lightly stall it on the converter - put in second, hold the brake, bring to 1/2 throttle for 15 seconds, run in neutral a minute... repeat until at operating temp. And make sure to roll it forward and back a bit to get oil on the ring gears.
  9. If the engine sounds a little more "clattery" and is not smoking excessively, timing is probably ok. Doesn't sound like there's any special timing procedures or tricks to get it right. With all the swapping and replacement parts, has the "calibration chip" in the PMD been getting swapped, or possibly forgotten? There's chips numbered 1-9, 9 being max fuel settings. Most reman PMD come with a 5 in them. If it had a 9 before all this started, and you now have a 5 in there, it's going to feel pretty neutered.
  10. As mentioned, don't see any wires hooked to it, but could be on opposing side, picture isn't that high of resolution either so maybe just can't see them. But, while I couldn't find a picture of one like it, the little spikes sticking out the top make it look like a static dissipator, meant to reduce the chance of lightning strike.
  11. First, too soon to tell, I had the carb pretty rich for break in. It was strong enough to get my attention and had a lot of room to go on RPM.... But I also have to admit, I haven't spent any time with a saw bigger than 55cc or a 20" bar, so it could be a turd and I'd probably still be impressed.
  12. The handle was a surprise bonus, I didn't know or notice it having a full wrap when I ordered it. An update now that I got it in wood.... Mixed results. First off, I didn't go too deep into it for my initial cleanup. Blew the plastic chips out of the gas tank. Removed the muffler cover and carb, wasn't much casting flash or signs of machining debris. Cylinder hone could have been better, but didn't look concerning. All the hardware was tight and I didn't have any problems with chinsy screws stripping or breaking. It didn't look bad, but I seen quite a few complaints that the recoil handles break, so I put a Stihl OEM on it. I checked carb adjustment, screws were set at basic starting points as recommended in manual. Filled it with 25:1 using Polaris 2 stroke oil since it's what I had. Took about 10 pulls to get the first fire up. Went over to the campfire woodpile and diced a few logs, leaned it up a bit... run really nice, never guess it was a cheap saw. Took it up north, got to work with it Saturday. I ran the first tank of gas through it and was very happy. Good power and response. Restarts on first pull. The square grind Oregon semi skip seemed to be a great match for the saw and dry Maple I was cutting. Second tank of gas, not as good. I noticed it seemed a bit off, but still cut fine.... finished out the tree I was bucking. Took it back to camp, hauled in & split my firewood, got the fire ring going.... Decided to take a look at the saw, make sure all was well and see if I could pinpoint what I noticed.... it would fire, and die. One other recoil problem of note, the rope is about 8" shorter than my normal pull. So, as I tried to get it diagnosed and running, I hit the end of the rope several times.... and the predictable happened... the end of the rope snapped off. I finished the weekend with the old Shindaiwa. I was too wrung out to bother with this thing at that point anyway.... gonna take a while to get used to tossing a 20 lb saw about. I don't think there's anything major wrong with the saw yet. Pulled fine and still had compression. There's reports of plugging the carb intake screen, fuel tank vents holding vacuum, and possibly coil or spark plug problems. I should get it figured out this week.... after I put a longer rope in.
  13. I'd bet it's give & take between parts prices between the two and the rest of the industry. I'm sure if you went through the parts lists and prices, you'll find all sorts of similar items where one is way more expensive than the other going both ways. Another thing to consider, on older equipment, the OEMs are boxing aftermarket parts as their own. For Deere, it's pretty safe to assume a 6620 isn't being pushed like a newer machine so a lower quality part will probably give acceptable life. The axial flow machines, all the way back to a 1460, have a lot of cross commonality, so CNH has to sell a higher quality part with expectation that they will be used in more demanding circumstances. Parts prices are going to be volatile for quite a while now too. It's not necessarily the OEMs price gouging either. I was in a service meeting a few weeks back. Our factory rep had a eye opening example... a chip used in certain parts was not available from their supplier and they had to open source it. They were getting them in bulk for $15... new source that could deliver in a timely manner... $400+!
  14. It arrived! Packaging was solid and intact. So far everything was included. Only mocked up the bar and handle install.... I'm going to do a light disassemble and clean of the powerhead before I fire it.
  15. I'm thinking they were using some sort of light filter or setting on the camera, which would explain why the ground level portion of the video is so dark. I imagine every time the sun is behind a cloud the edges have refracted light (rainbow effect) like that - we just don't see it. Still pretty neat.
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