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About Cattech

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  • Birthday 02/01/1977

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    Clear Lake, MN

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  1. Reading the above from Wiki, it does seem funny for a store named Tractor Supply, only 4% of their business would be retail of Ag products. But then, I look at the Ex-Ag community I grew up in, it makes sense. 40 yrs ago, the area was nothing but 40-160 acre farms, most of these had been the sole income for the families that lived on them. Now, the 80 acres my old man has is one of the few remaining farms in the area & by the looks of the recent signs that went up he will be the only one in a yr or so. There are 3-4 largish farmers renting local ground but a larger portion has been developed into 5 acre hobby farms, some people keep a horse or two, they might have some chickens, or maybe plant a garden, but most of them just cut a lot of grass. I look at the CIH dealer I worked at, every year the number of tractors coming through went down, the Cub Cadets and other lawn equipment had basically taken over the shop when they closed the doors a few yrs ago, so no different than TSC.
  2. We try not to use speedi sleeves as well, not that we have had bad luck with them as searcyfarms lists, possibly the sleeve he bought wasn't a SKF?.... they are spendy - like $50+ and up. When you do install one I would recommend a Loctite 609, bearing retaining compound for press fit joints. I put a thin coat on the shaft and inside the sleeve. Install then wipe off excess. You do not want any sealant on the surface that the seal rides. Another trick I have used on lip seals/worn shafts. Aggressively polish the groove on the shaft, you want it smoothed out pretty good. Pull the tensioning spring out of the seal - if look closely you will find where the spring loop is connected - this will thread apart - do so. Cut a small length off the female end of the connection and re-thread together, put the spring back in the seal. Holds a little more tension on the lip to make up for the shaft wear.
  3. Cattech


    I hear all these people talk up their I-phones & I-pads and have to wonder if something is wrong with me, I can't stand using them. I find my Samsungs far easier to use and navigate. On the college campuses, I wonder how many of the students would swear off using Apple if they knew Rush Limbaugh is constantly talking them up.... unclean, unclean! Open up the safe spaces and call the grief counselors.... sorry, can't help myself sometimes.
  4. The rule I was always told is 1 stud per HP. That T-Cat was north of 170 stock and with the tuned ignition and Polaris clutching it will be better than that. So a 192-196 even a 244 pattern is going to be needed. When under-studded you can spin the track too violently and studs will tear through... destroying it. For length, you want about 1/4" height over track lugs with regular steel studs or approximately 1/8" if you use carbide tipped. You are better off with less penetration & more picks. Again, problem is tear through, they cannot be allowed to get too good a bite and keel over rather than slip. Some people have been using ice screws originally meant for motorcycle/ATV tires rather than studs. #1 benefit being you don't have to drill holes in the track and compromise the internal cords. They're much easier to install, lighter, and don't ruin the belt if pulled out. If I were going to try to improve the traction on my sleds I probably would go this route. No telling how these would hold up to a high HP sled like yours though. As mentioned above, tunnel clearance must be accounted for. Your T-Cat will have extra considerations because of the 1000cc 130 mph capabilities. With that motor, no matter how many picks you put in, it will spin out. Adapting a roll out and ease into the power riding approach is about the only way to actually use the power the big triples put out.... That said, be careful! My neighbor put 3 hoods on his in 600 miles, then sold it before it killed him! And have fun!
  5. Obviously not for 5th wheel/gooseneck trailers but it does hook up to a pintle, that is the adapter they put on the wagon tongue.
  6. https://www.bergmanmfg.com/ Check these out, couple videos on how they work can be found on youtube.
  7. A working man can't afford to buy cheap tools,
  8. Looked into tickets to ride the Amtrak Empire Builder out to Glacier NP. When I seen what it was going to cost, I didn't bother trying to book the trip. Have you tried any of the travel sites on the web? I haven't looked, but I would think there is some site similar to all the air travel agencies. ... TripAdvisor, Travelocity, etc. Edit: out of quriosity, just looked up "buy train tickets". Found the site wanderu, just like airline tickets, and picking a quick random trip to Glacier, was 1/3rd the price I had found on the Amtrak site when I looked.
  9. Cattech


    Just means MS isn't going to be sending out regular updates anymore. It will continue to work just fine but eventually some new programs may have trouble with it. And it will become more susceptible to hacking and viruses. In tractor terms, it's comparable to when CIH dropped the boxcar Magnum for the MXs. You don't have to buy a new tractor, the old one works just fine, but the electronics in that new planter aren't going to plug into that old tractor. Only difference is that CIH would no longer be selling new parts to repair it. I bought a desktop computer that has W 10 on it right when W 10 came out. I still am not crazy about the layout and how a few things work. That's probably because my work computer still is using W XP Pro. That said, I haven't had any real problems with the W 10, just wish I would've bought a little higher quality computer. Advice, don't purchase the absolute cheapest Black Friday computer.
  10. Just remember none of them are much use when the batteries get cantankerous. And if a guy gets desperate, a Ryobi is probably going to be better than doing it by hand. Close your eyes, might not even know the difference..... The cheapest tools on the shelf get used less so, less wear and tear....
  11. As eluded to, the problem arises because of modification. Working in a dealership environment, I get a front row seat to both sides of the coin. We are stuck between customers, the manufacturer, and EPA regulation. Granting the end user electronic access to repair generally also grants access to modify. Not only does this neuter EPA compliance, but it opens the door to run things outside the design limits. Any easy access to such parameters becomes a liability. If someone gets hurt or worse due to an unauthorized modification, who is going to be liable when the litigation starts? I admit I don't know much about Deere, but with Cat and Agco, much of what you need to know in order to repair things is all accessible through the monitor in the cab. There are numerous aftermarket scan tools also available for diagnostic use. So when I hear people complain about the right to repair, I question whether it a lack of access to the electronics, or a lack of understanding the machine and systems? For yrs in the auto industry people complained about the electronics in cars, pulled the EFI off and put carburetors back on. Now hot rodders are putting EFI on their old hot rods. I agree that a person should be able to fix it themself rather than having to wait/pay for a dealer mechanic to come out and diagnose something. But as I ask before, at what level of repairs should a person be responsible for?
  12. Bigger issue than you would think, and Iowa is actually quite low per capita vs rest of the country, just looked up..... https://www.vivintsource.com/smart-home-academy/2019-missing-persons-by-state/ I caught part of an interview with an ex police woman who had worked a lot of anti prostitution. Some of the examples and stories she had were heartbreaking and sickening. The human trafficking problem in the US is far larger than reported and getting worse. What really made my jaw drop was the percentages she stated were inter-family, how do you get a handle on something like that? What kind of monster pimps out their pre-teen child for sexual exploitation?!
  13. You could always go commercial. I need a new fridge too, I've been limping mine along with a 1/2 lb of R134A every 8-10 months. Your thread reminded me to take a look at what's available and I googled commercial refrigeration. https://www.webstaurantstore.com/13421/reach-in-refrigerators-and-freezers.html
  14. Cattech

    The draft

    I admit I was very scared of the idea of a draft 25 yrs ago, had no interest in going to boot camp and being shipped to some 3rd world country to be shot at. More than one time since then I wished I had voluntarily joined and had the experiences and learned some of the disciplines that time would have instilled. That said, seeing the current state of many of the young people joining the workforce, it probably wouldn't be a bad thing for a lot of these snowflakes. But the reason the topic comes up again, I may guess, is because the media is blasting it all over. Claiming we are at the precipice of WWIII because we wiped out that dirtbag general from Iran. Not too worried about that.
  15. I just have the attached 3 car garage on my house, it's heated with a ceiling mount natgas furnace. I have found very little difference in my gas and electric bills whether I let it cool down or leave it set, the house probably is easier to heat with a warm attatched garage, but hard to tell what changes what since it's all on the same meter. I can say though, with forced air heat, it seems a lot nicer out there when I just leave it set at one temp. The times I have let it cool down to around 50F and then bring it back up to use, the air temp may be toasty but you feel the cold on everything you touch. I actually keep it a degree or two warmer than the house so if I open the door it takes no time to catch back up. Hate to admit it, but I had to turn it down to work out there for extended times this last week.
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