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Posted

I know it's a different engine, but contact Olson Gaskets. https://www.olsonsgaskets.com/  We have worked with them in the past.

He recently called to say they now have a head gasket for IH 407 engines. We purchased one from them. Very impressed with visual but have none out and running yet.

Going to install one soon as we have a job on yard waiting. 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Since the D312 is the standard engine in the 666, which is otherwise mechanically identical to a 656, the answer is yes. Problem is the 666 and early 686 are the ONLY machines that IH used the D312 in, and they didn't make that many of them, so you're a lot more likely to find a complete running 666 or 686 before you gather up a good used engine and all the parts you need to fit one in a 656. 

Speaking to finding used parts, Leon, who did the DT360 conversion on my 756, tried to find a front cover off a D312 for the project over 20 years ago. He scoured the country and came up empty. I have a hard time believing things are any better now.

The D312 is a completely different engine from the D282. It's a "baby" version of the wet sleeve 414/436/466 engines that IH used from 1971 to 1993 in combines, trucks and tractors. Nothing in common with a D282 except number of cylinders and firing order. But, because so few were made I'm not sure if parts availability is any better for the engine itself.

  The D312 was used in light industrial equipment such as paving machines.  Another approach in terms of sourcing parts or complete engines.  

Posted
17 hours ago, snoshoe said:

White grill would be light press fit. Even if the .06 is supposed to be .006 your numbers don't work. Sleeve protrusion is to be .002 -.004 with a max .005. Not more than .001 difference between adjacent sleeves or more than .002 over the length of the block. Counterboreing after decking is to bring sleeve protrusion back down. The machine shop I used to use would counterbore to correct height without shims if you sent sleeves along.

A major machine shop in Dallas (recommended by the local IH dealer) did the prep work on our little D179, their shop supervisor said to always deck the block and machine the head, and always bring the sleeves into factory spec. That was back in 2008, no head or cooling issues since .  I lay on the brag, about how I rebuilt a Neuss, when actually I followed the advice of people I hired to do work. I did install everything to their specs.

Posted

So a lot of comments are about head gaskets aren't worth a dang anymore.  I'm assuming that's for this style of head or gaskets in general?  

Posted

About a year ago there's a 686 on an auction.  I didn't wired around on here about the tractor.  General consensus was it wasn't much different than what I already had other than just a newer series.  We had stayed at above the German diesel but parts were hard to find.  Someone said something else had better brakes somehow.  So I don't know if I'd be getting much or not if I went to something like that. 🤔

Posted
21 hours ago, Amo said:

About a year ago there's a 686 on an auction.  I didn't wired around on here about the tractor.  General consensus was it wasn't much different than what I already had other than just a newer series.  We had stayed at above the German diesel but parts were hard to find.  Someone said something else had better brakes somehow.  So I don't know if I'd be getting much or not if I went to something like that. 🤔

Or bump up to an 886 with the d360 in it. 

Posted
23 hours ago, Amo said:

About a year ago there's a 686 on an auction.  I didn't wired around on here about the tractor.  General consensus was it wasn't much different than what I already had other than just a newer series.  We had stayed at above the German diesel but parts were hard to find.  Someone said something else had better brakes somehow.  So I don't know if I'd be getting much or not if I went to something like that. 🤔

Yeah, the 686 is virtually identical to your 656 except for the engine, which could be a 312 or a 310 depending on the year it was made.  All you would be getting is a modest HP increase and possibly less wear and tear, depending on how the tractor was used and maintained. For better brakes you'd have to step up to a large frame like a 786 or 886, or go with an 684, 784, or 884 utility. The 656/666/686 still have the mechanical disk brakes first seen on the Super H and M. They've been improved some, but still not the best.

Posted
On 1/3/2026 at 10:19 AM, Amo said:

So a lot of comments are about head gaskets aren't worth a dang anymore.  I'm assuming that's for this style of head or gaskets in general?  

mostly applies to the 282 head  gaskets. the old red victor gaskets were the good ones. these felpro gaskets dont last.  you can do a perfect job  and once the tractor is running spray soapy water along the head and you will see tiny bubbles coming out.  i have changed many  of these gaskets on my tractors . have lots with the 282 engines. good engine if you look after it and you cant pull the heck out of them. and for easy starting you need to drill out the old seats and install new seats . i set mine at .005 and she starts excellent , from the way it was before. gotta have that compression right up.  case ih sells felpro and so does olsens gaskets. not cheap either. 

Posted

Kinda figured it was just the 282 head gasket.  Sorry about the talk to text goobering in the last 2 posts.

Gonna sleep on it, but probably go ahead and remove the block so it can go to the machine shop.  I wish shimming the sleeves would be enough.  I don't like the price, but I've got more than that in it already.  It should be like new once it's done, and to replace it with something that isn't a spin of the roulette wheel would be 3 times more at least than an overhaul.  

Is there a better brand of overhaul kits?  I don't remember why, but I ordered the last one.  It might have been cheaper than where the mechanic normally got his stuff or his normal supplier was out of stock.  I know it was a little bit cheaper than his preferred kit source.  Money was pretty tight (still is) back then 

Posted
10 hours ago, Amo said:

It should be like new once it's done

Yes, it should be, but will it actually? There are so many problems posted on here with 282’s that have been worked on, I really doubt it will be like new. There’s no way there are that many otherwise competent mechanics who are botching 282 repairs. 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

Yes, it should be, but will it actually? There are so many problems posted on here with 282’s that have been worked on, I really doubt it will be like new. There’s no way there are that many otherwise competent mechanics who are botching 282 repairs. 

Agreed.

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

Yes, it should be, but will it actually? There are so many problems posted on here with 282’s that have been worked on, I really doubt it will be like new. There’s no way there are that many otherwise competent mechanics who are botching 282 repairs. 

as i say ... the 282 is a test of the mechanic's skill.

Posted
2 hours ago, rustred said:

as i say ... the 282 is a test of the mechanic's skill.

Well I'll find out.  Told him to go ahead as long as he doesn't rin into anything else.  Not real crazy about any of the options I had.

Posted
2 hours ago, Amo said:

Well I'll find out.  Told him to go ahead as long as he doesn't rin into anything else.  Not real crazy about any of the options I had.

so what all is going to take place on this engine ?

Posted
10 hours ago, Amo said:

Agreed.

I think those dry sleeves are too thin and tempermental, I would put a combine engine in, wether you overhaul it or not I bet you get better results 

Posted
14 hours ago, rustred said:

so what all is going to take place on this engine ?

Well whatever the head needs.  Not exactly sure what the head needs.  Removing the block and getting it decked and counter-bored.  New sleeves, pistons, and rings.  I'm thinking he'll leave the bearings alone, but getting a complete overhaul kit.  New head bolts.

What's peoples thoughts on reliance overhaul kits?  Guess that's what the local cnh dealer usually carries.  He really didn't say much about getting a different head gasket other than what came with the kit.  

Ya, thought about different engines.  I said something about a combine engine or a reman.  He started looking for remans and I think we kinda forgot about combine engine.

Posted

Im for  Reliance.  Sometimes the gaskets  get wacky, but that's  easy  enough  to fix.

 

There was some  Reliance-bashing going  on  here a couple  years  ago, over some  failed  bearings. I had a 7050 that smoked 3 S/P sets, pictures of which are posted somewhere on this site. No one could  offer an answer, including  2 A-C dealers and another  roving mechanic. Each  time we wound up with white lube oil. Reliance  bearings  were used in the original overhaul ; they  were  swamped with antifreeze 3 times and never showed any distress. 

 

When  someone  runs down  a product, make  sure they  actually  have  skin in the game, or are they just "piling on". 

 

I think,  however,  that I'd get the head gasket  from  a different supplier, if their D282 gasket is of the exposed paper with fire rings type...although I never had any  trouble  with those on AC.

Posted
1 hour ago, Amo said:

Well whatever the head needs.  Not exactly sure what the head needs.  Removing the block and getting it decked and counter-bored.  New sleeves, pistons, and rings.  I'm thinking he'll leave the bearings alone, but getting a complete overhaul kit.  New head bolts.

What's peoples thoughts on reliance overhaul kits?  Guess that's what the local cnh dealer usually carries.  He really didn't say much about getting a different head gasket other than what came with the kit.  

Ya, thought about different engines.  I said something about a combine engine or a reman.  He started looking for remans and I think we kinda forgot about combine engine.

i am wondering why you are decking it ? never even hear of doing that on these. is the block warped ? common to plane  the head though. head would require guides, seats , probably valves. springs would be checked or replaced . pay special attention the the valve recession  on these heads. max is .046 depth. new is .004. i have mine at .005. you must give this spec to the machinest ! you sure are not going to be reusing the old brgs. even the cam should be pulled out and replace those brgs. and check the cam and followers. followers will need to be resurfaced most likely. they must be convex, if flat or concave they are done. as for head gaskets they are all felpro gaskets dont matter who sells them. that head must be torqued in 3 stages to 115 lbs. then run for an hr. min. at 1000 rpm  rad covered for heat . then the head retorqued. and valves set to .027 hot. without retorquing you will blow that gasket out in no time. and also these heads are old and many already have small cracks in them. make sure its soaked by hot tanking it and checked.

Posted

Just trying to cover all the bases so we don't blow out another one.  I'm guessing if the blocks within specs, they'll leave it alone.  On the flip side if it's out, why not.  For as many times and as few of hours I'm hop that it's not needing plained.  Yes I know that's the common thing to do and that's what we've done three or four times and it is not worked.  I'm also hoping for his recent of a valve job as has been done to it that we don't need to replace the valves guide springs etc. I would assume the machines should have books and other resources to know what the specs are.  He's also going to need it to match up with any counter boring.  I'll let them look into the necessary specs.  To be honest with you I'm not sure if the camshaft has ever been looked at.  I suppose it has.  I'm going to assume that they'll look at it and if it needs addressed it'll be addressed.  Just like the crank.  As far as bearings go but comes with the kids and so be it.  Bearings that I replaced on the second time we had it open where the originals from 1963.  So depending on price the bearings are still decent why not reuse them.  Bearings are not the issue that I'm having. All I know in the past is sometimes you could not get felpros.  Maybe that has changed and but that's what I was told the first time we opened it up.  The last time I had it opened up I mentioned about getting a Fel-Pro and my mechanic like while we can get that but it's going to be three times the price and he kind of liked his brand to hit gasket so I went with it.  As far as retorting I visited with him about that.  He said what they do is they torque them, then hook up to the dyno, get it warmed up good, and  rerorque.  I would prefer to run it 100 hours and then take it down there and have it done again.  I may do that.  See how things go.

Posted
24 minutes ago, Amo said:

The last time I had it opened up I mentioned about getting a Fel-Pro and my mechanic like while we can get that but it's going to be three times the price and he kind of liked his brand to hit gasket so I went with it.

That might be part of your problem. Cheap is as cheap does.

Posted

If I were in your shoes I would take a new or used gasket and send it MLS, Lubbock gasket or car racing gasket manufacturers.  They SHOULD be able to make a superior gasket same thickness, there is a potential they or you would need to transfer the rubber sealing washers over to the new gasket.

I would also think hard on buying a low hour used D282 out of a combine, or late 656.

Scott

Posted
5 hours ago, 460 said:

If I were in your shoes I would take a new or used gasket and send it MLS, Lubbock gasket or car racing gasket manufacturers.  They SHOULD be able to make a superior gasket same thickness, there is a potential they or you would need to transfer the rubber sealing washers over to the new gasket.

I would also think hard on buying a low hour used D282 out of a combine, or late 656.

Scott

Tell us a little more about these people and what they can do?

A local company can make gaskets out of many different materials but not head gaskets.  All their gaskets are fade from a single material (rubber, nitrile, Teflon, etc).

Posted
1 hour ago, acem said:

Tell us a little more about these people and what they can do?

A local company can make gaskets out of many different materials but not head gaskets.  All their gaskets are fade from a single material (rubber, nitrile, Teflon, etc).

Used https://lubbockgasket.com/ years ago for pulling gas 301.  It was a composite material with wire reinforcement with a steel fire ring for the bores.

https://www.cometic.com/ makes a MLS (multi layer steel), they go in a bit details then Lubbock on there site.  I imagine a custom gaskets would be pretty expensive, but really don't know.  Running this type on my 427 SBF v8 with a iron block and aluminum heads, suggested by my machine shop.

Never had great success on sealing a copper head gasket with water on the gas heads.  Probably why no copper gaskets are used today in mild street engine builds.  Copper is mostly used for all out race without coolant.

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